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2G Which turbo Fp hta68 or 20g?

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Type1DSMr

Type1DSMr

Proven Member
1,116
163
Jul 27, 2014
Jasper, Indiana
So I'm looking to upgrade my turbo to either a 20g or a fp hta68, and I can't decide which to get. I've been to talking to Justin on which turbo would be best for my needs, and if I go with a 20g I'm having him build it for me. My goals are to have a fun street turbo for DD as I don't race my car. Horsepower goals are 400 or less, lending towards 350 or so as I'm on a stock block. Fuel system will be at least 1450cc or 1650cc injectors to run e85 with a rewired supra tt fuel pump and Fuelab 515 regulator. Yes, I have a way to tune with Ecmlink, maf and speed density. My profile is update besides the evo injectors currently installed, and I have a Fp manifold ceramic coated and Fuelab reg on the way this week. I've searched a lot, however, most info is old and still undecisive.:aha: Any help on which turbo would be best for everyday street driving such as rpm spools, psi running, or anything. Thanks
 
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I would say go for the FP HTA68. It spools quicker and gets around 50lbs/m of airflow which about the same as the 20G. I have a 50trim which is about the same as the 20G and I've driven a car with a 20G and a HTA68 and the HTA68 spools a little quicker with about the same top end. Both the cars were 2G's and stock blocks on pump gas. My car spools around 3700rpms in 3rd, the 20g I drove was about 3700 as well and the HTA68 was around 3500-3600rpms in 3rd gear. Both those turbos are about the same like I said and they work well on the street. When you're above 60mph all these turbos spool instantly in 5th and will take off if you give it any amount of gas. I can't use my cruse control at all above 60 because it just takes off, speeds like crazy and just disables itself. That might be different for me because I have a lot of hills around here but it still hits like a train even at elevation. I'm about 400hp up here at 7500ft elevation with 30-32psi so down at sea level you can get the HP you're looking for at around 23psi pretty easy especially on e85.

If you have under 400hp in mind either turbo will work just fine for those goals and I can say you won't go wrong with either one. Hope this helps you, good luck and have fun.
 
20G = cheaper
68HTA = better

They are very similar compressor wheels and have the same exducer size, the 68HTA is better tech and better aero, it flows more and spools quicker -it was designed as a replacement for the ancient 20G. That said, a rebuilt 20G is plenty fun and works great for me.
 
I would go with the 20G especially if it's from Jus. Granted it may not flow as much but you know you are getting a good turbo from him and he will not BS you.
 
Both turbos will make plenty over 350 on e85. I'm personally going for mid 400's on a stock 6 bolt/e85 with a billet TD06sl2 20g I had Justin build. I was hitting full boost (21-22psi on 93oct) at 3600rpm in 3rd with the cast wheel setup and Justin has assured me the billet 7 blade wheel will spool almost identically while flowing a bit more. I personally went the down-firing 20g route to avoid the whole j-pipe setup but you'll meet your goals with both turbos. Just depends on what you want to spend.
 
Thanks for all the replies. So the 20g only has a slower spool by 100 to 200 rpms? If that's the case the extra money doesn't seem quite worth it. Now I've been reading that the difference between cast and billet wheels is only looks not performance. Does anyone have proof to either claim? Thanks
 
Type1DSMr said:
Thanks for all the replies. So the 20g only has a slower spool by 100 to 200 rpms? If that's the case the extra money doesn't seem quite worth it. Now I've been reading that the difference between cast and billet wheels is only looks not performance. Does anyone have proof to either claim? Thanks
Click to expand...

Talk to Justin.
 
Which 20g are you comparing the fp68 to? tdo5h, tod6 or tdo6h? The turbine wheel can definitely make difference in power vs spool.
 
I've never road in a car with the hta68 but for about 5 years I made 440whp on stock block and nothing special but a unported cast wheel 20g on 28psi. If your gona run e85 this turbo will spool as soon as you put your foot in it on a good tune. Like stated before both turbos are about the same the 68 being a tad better, then again I did pick my 20g up for 300 bucks.
 
Ok looks like the general consensus is that the hta68 is a better turbo, but doesn't seem worth the price difference for little gain. I think I'm just gonna go with a built 20g from Jus and spend the savings on other upgrades.:D What would be the best 20g than, billet or cast, tdoh5 or tdo6h? I'm thinking a cast and tdoh5 for faster spool.
 
I'm exactly at the same situation as you are right now... Trying to decide between a TD06SL2 20G or the FP 68HTA...

There are alot of info about the old TD05H 68HTA here in the forums, but so far seems like no one is pushing hard the new FP 68HTA to get comparison numbers...

I'm actually waiting for tylersevo 20g results as well! :D
 
Just got off the phone with force performance, and they are done with the bundle deal. So I'm definitely going with the 20g, not paying $1050 for internal waste gate for little gain. Now just need to decide what kind of 20g to get.
 
No I'm running the stock 99 H8 ecu. Car will be tuned via evoscan/ceddy mods. Hoping to have it running within the next two weeks...just bolted the turbo up the other night.
 

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Billet TD06SL2 20G is where it's at. I've had customers provide accurate airflow logs in the 50-52 lb/min range with enough steam on top to trap 134mph. Outspools the "latest" 68HTA, and can be built new for less money. Win/win/win/win. Win.
 
all the answers in here are useless. there are like ten different billet 20g wheels out. and like eight different turbine wheels that can be mated to 20g. you can easily build a 20g right now that will outpower an HTA green and spool about the same.(7/14 blade 20 with 9 or 11 blade 6h turbine... and you can build a fast spooling 20g that will outperform a 68hta in every way.( billet 10 blade 20g/ 6Sl2 9 blade turbine.) in short there are like 100 different 20g combinations available right now. to group them all together like they all perform the same is down right silly.
 
94awdcoupe said:
all the answers in here are useless. there are like ten different billet 20g wheels out. and like eight different turbine wheels that can be mated to 20g. you can easily build a 20g right now that will outpower an HTA green and spool about the same.(7/14 blade 20 with 9 or 11 blade 6h turbine... and you can build a fast spooling 20g that will outperform a 68hta in every way.( billet 10 blade 20g/ 6Sl2 9 blade turbine.) in short there are like 100 different 20g combinations available right now. to group them all together like they all perform the same is down right silly.
Click to expand...

Who's grouping them together? There's obviously big differences between TD05/06 but the last 5 or 6 replies are all specifically aimed at the 7 blade billet TD06sl2 setup which, as Justin said, provides quick spool and enough power up top to trap over 130mph. Best of both worlds for less than a 68HTA.
 
OEM MHI 20g cast
kamak cast 20g small hub
BILLET 20g from numerous different sources. 6-8 different 6/12 blade billet wheels. all different sizes with different hub sizes, blade height, ext tip and not. the difference here is mind boggling in itself.
kamak 5/10 blade
snail 10 blade (all same height) awesome.
KTS 11 blade.( all same height) seen three different ones here.
kTS 7 blade
so that 14 different ones.

then theres turbine blades.
4 original MHI ones
5h 12 blade.
5h 11 blade modern aero
6 12 blade
6h 11 blade modern aero. and original 12 blade.

6h aftermarket 11 blade and 9 blade.
6Sl2 aftermarket 11 blade 9 blade
5h aftermarket 9 blade.

so thats nine different turbine wheels out.

then there are three different compressor covers. all perform differently. and there are like ten different exhaust housings out there as well if want to get technical. so at this point I just want to throw up when I here someone ask if they should run a "20g"
 
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94awdcoupe said:
there are like ten different billet 20g wheels out.
Click to expand...
Your post is absolutely spot-on. I just don't automatically think of a billet anything actually being a 20G. To me, when someone says 20G, I think of a 30+ year old original MHI cast compressor. I suppose I should just accept that given label for these new offerings even if it was originally only meant to serve marketing purposes. Hand grenades and horseshoes.
 
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