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Where are the FWDs at????

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I think you were talking about my post. I haven't tried them yet but in theory they should work. You figure if you have something wedged between the coils of the spring that prevents the compression therefore stiffining the spring. You can try either spring rubbers or they do make little plates with u bolts in them to install and you can set how tioght they are. They should be relatively inexpensive maybe 20-30 bucks for a pair if not less. Your local parts store should have them if not try a 4x4 truck store or a diesel repair shop.

Do you know what the plates with U bolts are called?
 
I'm wondering can a 400hp car ran a 11-10 second? I'm debating with my friend whether a high HP FWD eg 600hp car but with no traction will lose to 400hp car with traction. What do u guys think?
 
I still in searching for a right technique to launch FWD car. Right now I slipping the clutch through out 1st gear. Is this recommended? Can u guys tell me how u launch ## car?
 
Heading out to the track tonight. I made a dual stage boost controller using the stock bcs but I can't get it to work at all and don't have time to mess with it so I'll be out there trying to pedal it to good times.

I'm running around 23psi on a bastard 20g and ~2640lbs race weight. My motor has pretty bad compression though and our track is never prepped good for street-legals night, I don't have GREAT tires, and I'm not very good at launching, so I'm expecting mid 13s or so. I'll post back up when I get back tonight. Wish me luck guys and I hope I don't break anything LOL.
 
Alright guys I finally got some clean passes with the talon running "right" LOL. Still on stock suspension with nothing done for traction except motor mounts. Tires are goodyear eagle all seasons, which aren't too bad but aren't very good either. First pass of the night was a 13.512 @ 110 with a 2.363 60'.

Second pass was the best of the night with a 13.489 @ 110 with a 2.427 60'. After this I turned the boost up and went slower, then turned it down and went slower yet. So the sweet spot seems to be 22psi, with half of it going past the rings and out through the crank-case breathers. So basically anything over 22psi and I'm overworking the turbo so much that it's just blowing hot air.


My 60's have a lot of room for improvement though. I was launching at 3 grand and slipping the clutch through about half of first then modulating 2nd. My buddies that were watching said my rear end was squatting like crazy, so I need to do something to stiffen it up for sure. In the end I was happy that I ran a 110mph trap but sad when I saw a rwd car run a 12.2 with a 111mph trap, then watched a evo run 11.9 @113.


Comments/Tips/Suggestions???
 
Built fwd! ive got a pte 5557, wiseco 8:1 and eagles, 7bolt, fidanza flw-4.3 clutch. I havent done much on this site till today when I found this thread!. I should be running the car this weekend if my slicks show up.
 
Alright guys I finally got some clean passes with the talon running "right" LOL. Still on stock suspension with nothing done for traction except motor mounts. Tires are goodyear eagle all seasons, which aren't too bad but aren't very good either. First pass of the night was a 13.512 @ 110 with a 2.363 60'.

Second pass was the best of the night with a 13.489 @ 110 with a 2.427 60'. After this I turned the boost up and went slower, then turned it down and went slower yet. So the sweet spot seems to be 22psi, with half of it going past the rings and out through the crank-case breathers. So basically anything over 22psi and I'm overworking the turbo so much that it's just blowing hot air.


My 60's have a lot of room for improvement though. I was launching at 3 grand and slipping the clutch through about half of first then modulating 2nd. My buddies that were watching said my rear end was squatting like crazy, so I need to do something to stiffen it up for sure. In the end I was happy that I ran a 110mph trap but sad when I saw a rwd car run a 12.2 with a 111mph trap, then watched a evo run 11.9 @113.


Comments/Tips/Suggestions???
Slicks and an LSD if your FWD trying to cut anything lower than a 2.0 60ft. A lot of the LA dsm'rs run FWD 2g's with slicks/LSD and are cutting 1.7/1.8 60fts...

:dsm:
 
^^^yep


It takes about a 2.1s or 2.0s 60ft to make respectable times on fwd without slicks.
 
I dont get this one problem I am trying to figure out.

Why arent there tons of FWD dsm's running 10s, 11s, and 12s?

This car has been around for 15 years and there are like a handfull of fast FWD's

On the other hand, the srt4, only around for like 3 years, has dozens of cars in the 11's, hundreds in the 12's and some in the 10s, most on stock blocks and trannies still

I dont get it??? Is there just something weird about our cars? Why is it so hard for us to go fast?

I am very very tempted to kill this trend. My tranny blew 2nd and I was gonna swap a stocker in and sell the car, but im like 99% set for calling TRE and ordering their race tranny, swapping some slicks on it and puttin down some times.

They have this new AWD tranny setup they are selling that work on FWD dsm's, and retain the awd gearing, maybe the fwd tranny isnt geared right or something, maybe the awd tranny will help???

Its expensive, $2500 with quaife, but its brand new, its built up and it has better gearing.

I put down 342whp on my old bullseye turbo, vtrim, and Im getting a 50trim from them now to replace my old turbo and then some cams to get about 400whp

With that and traction, it should easily do 11's. If not, Im stumped. I just dont understand why there arent more hardcore FWD dsm's around. :confused:

funny u bring this up im here in florida and its hard some one that will keep up i have race hondas and turbo h22 and ls hatchys and what not and my dsm is not awd i know awd is the best but i like to make something out of nothing :hellyeah: :tease: awd
 
I took a stroll down to orlando last weekend and saw a 1g FWD on slicks make 2 11.2 passes I have some vids I will upload in the morning. I had a bust and my clutch took a dump when I made my second pass but I had a 2.0 60foot on slicks and open diff.
 
Out of curiosity to the guys with slicks: Do you always do a burnout? I ask because it kinda sucks for the guy behind you when your back tires drag water to the line. I've always thought about this because I've never actually seen a fwd car with slicks at the track, but I'm not at the track much at all.
 
Out of curiosity to the guys with slicks: Do you always do a burnout? I ask because it kinda sucks for the guy behind you when your back tires drag water to the line. I've always thought about this because I've never actually seen a fwd car with slicks at the track, but I'm not at the track much at all.


I have plenty of power to just roast the tires and not move but i have seen guys that dont know how to do a burnout that drag the tires 10ft or so (mostly hondas) If you have dual stadge boost like i do turn it all the way up (mines at 28psi) and dump the clutch in the water box trust me if you have enough power you not going to go anywhere until you let off the ebrake
 
I have plenty of power to just roast the tires and not move but i have seen guys that dont know how to do a burnout that drag the tires 10ft or so (mostly hondas) If you have dual stadge boost like i do turn it all the way up (mines at 28psi) and dump the clutch in the water box trust me if you have enough power you not going to go anywhere until you let off the ebrake

28 psi on a non turbo?!?! Wow.
 
Alright guys I did some experimenting this past week with some coil spring boosters from autozone. These are basically pieces of polyurethane that you put in between two coils and it eliminates any movement between those coils.

First off I put these ones in. They're the biggest ones that autozone had and they BARELY fit in. First off you jack up the rear of the car so the springs de-compress and then stick two in on each side, opposite each other but in-between the same coils. For the big ones I had to use some lube to squeeze them in, made it 20x easier than without it. After driving it I could definitely tell a difference in the rear end when going over bumps or doing a hard 1-2 shift. The launch still felt like quite a bit of weight was being transferred though, so I took it to the next step.

I went back to autozone and bought a set of these. Since these ones are smaller they went in without a hitch. I would've like to use the big ones again but there's no way I could've fit another set in there. After going on a drive with both sets in my rear is SIGNIFICANTLY stiffer than it was before. My launch feels quite a bit better and the 1-2 shift has also been improved a significant amount. My second gear pulls after a 1st gear launch are MUCH easier to control and reduce wheelspin while still accelerating fast.

Overall for $16 and less than an hour of your time this is a GREAT mod for us fwd guys in my opinion. And to those of you wondering if they'll pop out around bumps, it's not going to happen. The big ones are in no way going anywhere since they were so hard to get in, and while the small ones were much easier to install they're in tight enough once you drop the car back down that they won't be going anywhere either.

One more thing that I did on Saturday was drop my front end 1/2". I did this by the very looked-down-upon method of heating the coils. I heated each one in the same spot and dropped each side 1/2". I was very surprised that they both dropped so evenly but heating the coil in exactly the same spot on both sides seemed to do the trick. I could drop it more of course but since this method isn't the best I decided not to push it or I might have some unpredictable-handling issues.

Hope this helps some people. If you can't afford real suspension BUY THESE INSERTS! :thumb:










EDIT: I was looking through this thread and saw a reference to green dot retreads, along with a link to this site.. Anyone using these? they're super cheap and a guy ran this with them and these mods -

12.80@109 1.98 60'

small 16G, 550's, AFC, Walbro 255, Griffin fmic (rre kit), 3" turbo back exhaust, AGX rear shocks (full stiff) w.Green dot retreads up front.
 
28 psi on a non turbo?!?! Wow.

Nope nope i just updated my user cp kinda, I have a 97 gst currently that ive built fully and run a pte 5557, its nasty if your in 3rd gear and hit the scrable boost button!

As far as the coil boosters go. I have tein springs and gr2's. I added the big donut lookin one to the top part of my coils it raised the back up about 1'' and kinda puts a preload on the spring and thus making it really stiff back there. On my second launch with the slicks and helpers and i pulled a really decent 60ft and even hitting 28psi in 2nd gear it held traction.
 
Out of curiosity to the guys with slicks: Do you always do a burnout? I ask because it kinda sucks for the guy behind you when your back tires drag water to the line. I've always thought about this because I've never actually seen a fwd car with slicks at the track, but I'm not at the track much at all.

Yes, you should. Slicks need heat to get up to proper operating temps, which makes the compound nice & sticky. If you don't have the heat in them, you likely won't have much advantage vs a reg, sticky street tire (in compairson to a properly heated slick).
 
Alright guys I got my homeade dual stage boost controller working today. I originally had it tapped into the cigarette lighter for power, I scratched that and ran it directly to the battery and it works like a charm now. 15psi in low and 22psi when I flip the switch. I did a launch and a first and second gear pull and it felt great, a little tire spin in first and none in second, I did not just mash the gas pedal though. If I did I'm sure first would still be nasty spinning and second would probably have some as well.

I'm going over to a buddies today to try and stiffen/raise my rear some more so I'm excited to see how well it works with the dual stage boost. I'll keep everyone updated when I go back to the track in a few weeks.
 
Lastnight I picked up a 2.01 60foot and 12.88@113. I boosted 20psi out of the hole and 28psi 2nd-4th. I made a few passes with 15psi out of the hole and ran 13s. Maybe I should give TRE a call this week and order a RipGrip.

Mods 97 GST 7 bolt
wiseco 8.0:1 eagle rods
pte 5557 @28psi
long route fmic
act 2600 solid 6 puck fidanza flywheel
225/50/16 hoosier slicks at 14psi
stock trans and axles
3'' turbo back
 
Last week I went to the track full weight,93 oct and street tires.Set up is a built 2.0,PTE SC61,stock head with 272s,stock im and tb.Even with tire press at 18 psi I would just roast the tires.Anyways I managed to do only one pass with a 2.3 60ft [email protected] planning on going tomorrow with less weight,still on pump gas and some decent tires.
 
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