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Where are the FWDs at????

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rhamlinii said:
I'm not the king never said I was, reading this thread is just sad(very funny at the same time). What do you think about some guy that post a 14.0 @ 12x MPH. Or guys that come across to me, bragging about 2.4 60 ft or 2.6 60ft? What do you think about people who have goals to cut 2.0 to 2.2 60ft. My favroite is the people who run 2.0+ on slicks. It's sad, I was expecting alot more information when I started on page 1, now i'm on page 8. I formed my own opinion at this point.:thumb:

In the spirit of things maybe some people can post how they drive there car, and we can see what works and what don't. Maybe some supension guides to what you have or what people are using, and what setting they run could help everyone out.

Here just so people can see where my times come from.

205/55-16 falken azenis autox tires, this car isn't a drag built car
eibach sportlines with agx's (front 1 - rear 8)
pump gas
open diff
20psi on an FP 18g
stock internals and manifolds

4000-4500rpm and slip the clutch (no studderbox yet)
pedal wheelspin through first at about 70-75% throttle
shift to 2nd gear at 6500rpm
60' 2.2 seconds
90-100% throttle in 2nd - tires still spinning small wheelhop
shift to third again at 6500rpm
1/8 mile 8.8 seconds @ 88mph
100% throttle through 3rd gear
shift at 6750 (leave the shift light on for about 2 tenths)
4th gear through the traps 100% throttle
13.3 seconds at 111.7 mph
13.4 seconds at 112.5 mph
 
Not trying to get into the middle of this, but if the jacking up the rear end comment was directed at me. Thats actually due to weight reductions and really stiff suspension in the rear and lowing in the front. ie...Wanting more weight on the front tires. Now as far as the clucth goes. You will do more damage by dumping it in the fwd than slipping it. On a side note. Axles break due to improper launches. Ive yet to break one due to launching while running slicks, and YES they are stock axles. Half shaft makes a world of difference btw. Now with that been said. Im very happy to see so many people trying to do their thing with the fwd's and seeing what they can be capable of.


Wendy
 
sorry, the comment wasn't directed at you, it was directed at fwd cars that sit like that in general, as you would either have to have edfc or manually adjust every time you went to the track. (i know why it sits so high, and the purpose of it). also, i understand that dumping the clutch is bad for the car, but slipping the clutch over and over to get a good time is going to yield a crappy clutch in no time. there is a happy medium for those who want a pretty good time and want to make their clutch last. i am happy to hear that our axles are so strong. i didn't know that. (big sigh of relief for the future, when i get slicks):sneaky:
 
nicknorth11 said:
sorry, the comment wasn't directed at you, it was directed at fwd cars that sit like that in general, as you would either have to have edfc or manually adjust every time you went to the track. (i know why it sits so high, and the purpose of it). also, i understand that dumping the clutch is bad for the car, but slipping the clutch over and over to get a good time is going to yield a crappy clutch in no time. there is a happy medium for those who want a pretty good time and want to make their clutch last. i am happy to hear that our axles are so strong. i didn't know that. (big sigh of relief for the future, when i get slicks):sneaky:

Ok thats cool.....Please note that I said half shaft.;) In other words equal lengh axles. The stock is garbage, and cause's horrible torque steer. However with any built or high hp car things are going to break eventually. Speaking of several parts. Also YES I agree there is a happy medium with slipping the clutch.


Wendy
 
I found something that will hopefully help my launches. http://www.dpconcepts.com/Multistagecontrol.html

Hopefully, it'll get here this weekend so I can try it at the track. I got the steering wheel mounted boost control. Traction has been a B**ch with my evo3 at 23psi in first gear for the strip and daily driving. Everytime I need to hurry and pass someone in first on the street, the tires just break loose waay to soon. Now, I wil be able to run low boost in first or whenever I don't need the rush of 23psi. I'm hoping this will also help my 60' times be more consistent.

And, for some of the comments about people who can cut good 60' times all the time....some tracks are just better prepped than others, so it doesn't always depend on tires or driving ability when comparing ET's across the nation.
 
side note to all fwd drivers. (this has already been mentioned, but cannot be stressed enough). electronic boost controllers that allow different boost settings at different times (staged) are priceless. i.e. ~ greddy profec e-01. there are plenty of others, this is just the one i have, so it was the first to come to mind. they cost more than standard boost controllers, but high hp fwd's need them. it eliminates the loss of traction in first and second and....anyway, priceless!:thumb:
 
Sometime this year I'll finish the buildup of my dual stage controller from 2 simple mbc's, a switch, and parts you already have on the car. :thumb:
 
girlieracr4g63 said:
Blah hi boost all the way!!!!! I threw my homemade setup in the trash along time ago..LOL Alot can be acomplished by learning how to work the clutch and the gas.


Wendy

high boost all the way for you maybe:rocks: . (obviously a good driver with a very well setup car). staged boost controllers will help many (dare i say most) drivers by taking all of the guesswork out of % throttle given in first and second. there is a fine line between getting MAXIMUM hp to the ground and spinning. you can guess, or you can set the boost controller, test, and set again until you have the max. performance before spinning.
 
girlieracr4g63 said:
Blah hi boost all the way!!!!! I threw my homemade setup in the trash along time ago..LOL Alot can be acomplished by learning how to work the clutch and the gas.


Wendy

If my car was a drag racer only I'd have a cheap ass set of all seasons on my nice wheels and a set of slicks on steelies.

Instead I have one set of Falken's for wet autox's, working on another set of Khumo's and wheels for dry autox's, and my winter tires for when it just sits there and doesn't move. Running out of garage space for wheels and tires LOL
 
I by no means was in disagree with you about alot of ppl needing them . However like I said before one of the biggest secrets to fwd is learning and knowing your car. For those of you that are wanting to run slicks. There is going to have to be somewhat a good amount of power coming off the line to get those suckers to hook (off the line), and not fall on your face with them at the same time. If you're bogging you're going no where.;)


Wendy
 
mavisky said:
If my car was a drag racer only I'd have a cheap ass set of all seasons on my nice wheels and a set of slicks on steelies.

Instead I have one set of Falken's for wet autox's, working on another set of Khumo's and wheels for dry autox's, and my winter tires for when it just sits there and doesn't move. Running out of garage space for wheels and tires LOL

I soooo feel your pain. Daily tires, DR's and slicks for two cars. I need to build a building just to store wheels and tires. LOL ROFL Not to mention all the crap stock parts laying around that most of us tend to store like pack rats for God knows what reason.LOL


Wendy
 
I agree, that you can learn to manipulate the clutch and gas to keep traction, but for street driving, who wants to always have to worry about wheelspin when you need to accelerate. That's why I think two-stage boost controllers are priceless. Run low boost in first and maybe second, then push a button and let her rip when you really need it.
 
nicknorth11 said:
i'd like to be the first to say you're a moron! most of us don't run slicks, have lsd, or jack the ass-end of our cars up 6 inches. that's the problem with fwd's. sure, anyone who has a combo or all of these things can run great, but since we don't all have them lay off and stop dissin' the drivers for something that is obviously due to the cars inability to gain traction. :thumb:
on a side note, i don't plan on hurting my car in any way to achieve a good time, like i've seen many people do. this includes slipping my clutch like crazy, (of course, a little is a must) and putting slicks on and breaking an axle. so my times will always be slower than a maniac driver.

Well what makes you smarter then me? It's not my fault people go hunting with butter knifes. People go to the track and run the best times they can, with what they have. If you ask any real racer. You only need to be gernerous, 99mph to make a 13second pass. If you can't do it or you run 13.8 @ 115 with your race setup, I say it's on you.Why make excuses? If you can't put the power down to the ground, be smart and lower the boost. I don't need an lsd, slicks, or my ass end 6 inches off the ground. Give me some 235/60r15drag radials at 10psi(cold), some suspension (stiff 750 to 1000 pd rear springs and some good shocks) and a 350 fwhp. I'll run low 12s or even maybe 11s, almost every pass w/ 1.9x 60fts. The almost same thing in a honda gave me very reliable 11.50s. It comes easy to those who know what there doing.

mavisky said:
Here just so people can see where my times come from.

205/55-16 falken azenis autox tires, this car isn't a drag built car
eibach sportlines with agx's (front 1 - rear 8)
pump gas
open diff
20psi on an FP 18g
stock internals and manifolds

4000-4500rpm and slip the clutch (no studderbox yet)
pedal wheelspin through first at about 70-75% throttle
shift to 2nd gear at 6500rpm
60' 2.2 seconds
90-100% throttle in 2nd - tires still spinning small wheelhop
shift to third again at 6500rpm
1/8 mile 8.8 seconds @ 88mph
100% throttle through 3rd gear
shift at 6750 (leave the shift light on for about 2 tenths)
4th gear through the traps 100% throttle
13.3 seconds at 111.7 mph
13.4 seconds at 112.5 mph

Very nice POST, This could be very helpfull. Thats not bad at all for a street setup. Why do you not feel the need to shift at 7k?:thumb:


girlieracr4g63 said:
Blah hi boost all the way!!!!! I threw my homemade setup in the trash along time ago..LOL Alot can be acomplished by learning how to work the clutch and the gas.

Wendy

I agree, if or when I need it. My right foot in combonation with the left seem's to work just find. Just wondering what type of suspension are you running? I'm trying to get a 1g FWD dsm myself (I have 2 AWD cars), I think on paper 1g's have a good chassis to start with. Have you thought about any of those sport classes to run in yourself?
 
Timeslip Info1/4 Mile: 14.866 @ 97.079
1/8 Mile: 9.746 @ 74.627
60' Time: 2.440
Turbo Type: GT28RS
Gas Type: Pump gas
Tires: Street Radials
Race Weight: full

:sneaky: :shhh: :notgood: ...........................:nono: ...........................................ROFL

Could have been a [email protected] with a 2.0XX something 60ft. How hard is it to control 220 fwhp(if that)? I don't like being called names, facts hurt more.
 
Well, to add to everyone's thoughts.

I have NEVER broken axel in the car, and it has been 12's or better for the past 2 seasons. 10's all last season,(except for the shootout, f-in cheap wires!!), and still no broken axel.

A mulit stage boost controler is the best single mod I have dont to lower my ET's. PERIOD. I have a simple 2 PTT manual boost controlers (awsome units) with a 10$ solinoild.

1.7's on slicks with a tuff launch. 1.8's are the norm. This is slipping @4500-5000rpm, no studder box, no 2 step. 2600, unsprung 6 puck.

There is NO excuse to getting worse than a 2.29 60ft. I have pulled 2.1's out of stock FWD's with more wheel hop than a car in an earthquake. If your leaving the line trying ot to a big burnout, just know that it
1)does not look cool
2)makes you slower

Thats about it.
 
rhamlinii said:
Timeslip Info1/4 Mile: 14.866 @ 97.079
1/8 Mile: 9.746 @ 74.627
60' Time: 2.440
Turbo Type: GT28RS
Gas Type: Pump gas
Tires: Street Radials
Race Weight: full

:sneaky: :shhh: :notgood: ...........................:nono: ...........................................ROFL

Could have been a [email protected] with a 2.0XX something 60ft. How hard is it to control 220 fwhp(if that)? I don't like being called names, facts hurt more.

haha, i know that slip sucks. i was at stock psi when i ran it. :thumb: it was right after i built my engine and put the new turbo on. i couldn't afford new tires or anything else for that matter, but wanted to see what the extra .3L and quick spooling turbo gave me. so i went to the track. not bad for 9 psi and the first time i was ever at the track. (i had only driven the car 1000 miles before that too, [which was engine break in], so no practice).

it's a different car now, we'll see how it runs this year. ;) :rocks:
 
Well, to add to everyone's thoughts.

I have NEVER broken axel in the car, and it has been 12's or better for the past 2 seasons. 10's all last season,(except for the shootout, f-in cheap wires!!), and still no broken axel.

A mulit stage boost controler is the best single mod I have dont to lower my ET's. PERIOD. I have a simple 2 PTT manual boost controlers (awsome units) with a 10$ solinoild.

1.7's on slicks with a tuff launch. 1.8's are the norm. This is slipping @4500-5000rpm, no studder box, no 2 step. 2600, unsprung 6 puck.

There is NO excuse to getting worse than a 2.29 60ft. I have pulled 2.1's out of stock FWD's with more wheel hop than a car in an earthquake. If your leaving the line trying ot to a big burnout, just know that it
1)does not look cool
2)makes you slower

Thats about it.


I due recall a certain 12.0 at 129 last seasonOMG
 
Im still learning........My first broken diff was a result of me trying to leave the line too hard without enough slippage (me vs. my mechanic). The second was a lack of fluids (rear main seal) mixed with a shitload of stupidity. In other words, I appreciate all the info in this thread.:thumb:
 
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