What oil do you use?? Is it killing your motor??

[scott90gsx420]

SORRY IF THIS IS A REPOST I LOOKED BUT DIDNT FIND ANYTHING....

So its recently come to my attention while reading a statement releases last year by FP that i may be killing my motor with the oil im using..

It says that mobil 1 and other ""economical oils""" are not adequate for my motor or any RACE MOTOR(there definition being anything that makes over 100bhp per cylinder).
I have ran mobil 1 full syn.10w-40 in my car since last year when i finished the build.. They say it doesnt have nearly enough zinc and phosphorous to protect the bearings in race motors..

My car has 14k on the rebuild and has the oil changed every 2500miles.. I have a hard time believing this but coming from fp its got to have some truth behind it.. Right????

So post what kind of oil you use, how often its changed and what kind abuse you give you motor.(meaning do you drive like you stole the car or do you baby it)

Id like to find out just how real this issue is as ive been under the impression that mobil1 was just what my motor wanted and reading this has me wanting to go drop the oil pan and make sure my bearings are ok..


The link below is the statement released by FP that has brought this to my attention.. Yes i relize there test is only 1 test and only the 4g but still if this is a real issue id think we all need to know
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor Oil.pdf

 

[Bud92gsx]

I used to use the cheapest crap i could find..But then you learn from your mistake. And start using better oil..

I just tried rotella for the first time in my moms car and my gf's car..The oil was still clear after 2000 miles...My girls car was leaking oil out of the gaket on the oil change bolt..So I added some penzoil I had laying around..And within a couple weeks the oil went from clear do almost black...

Rotella was like 12 bucks for 4 quarts, but IT was really good stuff.And I think I'm going to continue to use rotalla..

 

[re-rx7]

Imo mobil is a quality oil. It was the oil reccomended my mitsu for the evo 8 and 9. I think your ok. Also a oil thats dark is a oil thats doing its job.
http://www.valvoline.com/car-care/motor-oil-myths/

 

[dsmboost84]

I'm leaning towards Royal Purple myself.

 

[LiquidX]

Imo mobil is a quality oil. It was the oil reccomended my mitsu for the evo 8 and 9. I think your ok. Also a oil thats dark is a oil thats doing its job.
Valvoline.com > Car Care > Motor Oil Myths

It's fine using on a stock motor. When you increase performance andinternals, those factory recommendations get tossed out the window.

Turning dark doesn't mean it's doing its job, it's just breaking down or becoming contaminated.


Royal Purple, good for a track car, waste of money on a daily unless you have deep pockets. Too costly when you have other oils that are just as good for cheaper.


Brad Penn oil is an excellent alternative.

 

[re-rx7]

It's fine using on a stock motor. When you increase performance andinternals, those factory recommendations get tossed out the window.

Turning dark doesn't mean it's doing its job, it's just breaking down or becoming contaminated.


Royal Purple, good for a track car, waste of money on a daily unless you have deep pockets. Too costly when you have other oils that are just as good for cheaper.


Brad Penn oil is an excellent alternative.

They use penzoil in ferraris now. Honestly i think castrol makes a good product ran it in my rx7 makin 400 no problems. Thinkin bout checkin out Rotella myself.

 

[bastarddsm]

If your car is making over 300hp, you need a race or heavy duty type oil. Something with more zzdp than normal. Most of the 20w50s have higher than standard zzdp, as well as most of the heavy duty diesel oils. All of the "Racing" oils are good to.

The key point is that the type of oil is way more important than the brand. As such, with a high power car, Shell Rotella T is better for the engine than any Mobil 1.

Some of the accptible cheaper oils are:
Kendal GT1 20w50 - 10w40 doens't have the zzdp content
Valvoline VR1
Shell Rotella T
Castrol GTX 20w50

Only the VR1 on this list actually carries the 2000ppm zzdp that FP recomends, but the rest of the list do have an elevated zzdp content over regular passenger car oils.

 

[re-rx7]

If your car is making over 300hp, you need a race or heavy duty type oil. Something with more zzdp than normal. Most of the 20w50s have higher than standard zzdp, as well as most of the heavy duty diesel oils. All of the "Racing" oils are good to.

The key point is that the type of oil is way more important than the brand. As such, with a high power car, Shell Rotella T is better for the engine than any Mobil 1.

Some of the accptible cheaper oils are:
Kendal GT1 20w50 - 10w40 doens't have the zzdp content
Valvoline VR1
Shell Rotella T
Castrol GTX 20w50

Only the VR1 on this list actually carries the 2000ppm zzdp that FP recomends, but the rest of the list do have an elevated zzdp content over regular passenger car oils.

Any 10-30 oils with the level of additive needed?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I used Valvoline Synpower for a couple years after my engine was broken in, but after reading FP's reccomendation, I switched to Brad Penn racing oil. There's a place right down the street from me that stocks it. Mobil one and several other oils had enough zinc at the time the auto manufacturers reccomended it's use. Fedral mandates required the oils to be reformulated when they decided those ingredients may be coating the substrate in the catylitic converters, rendering them ineffective.

I'm pretty sure the failures FP was referring to were the thrust washer in the turbo, so you probably won't need to drop your pan to check it out. Another place the zinc is required is tappet lifters, which modern engines (including the 4G63) don't use.

One thing that immediately became apparent when I switched, was lower oil pressure during hot idle with the Brad Penn 10W30, than I had with the Synpower 10W30.

 

[Boomdeeze]

If your car is making over 300hp, you need a race or heavy duty type oil. Something with more zzdp than normal. Most of the 20w50s have higher than standard zzdp, as well as most of the heavy duty diesel oils. All of the "Racing" oils are good to.

The key point is that the type of oil is way more important than the brand. As such, with a high power car, Shell Rotella T is better for the engine than any Mobil 1.

Some of the accptible cheaper oils are:
Kendal GT1 20w50 - 10w40 doens't have the zzdp content
Valvoline VR1
Shell Rotella T
Castrol GTX 20w50

Only the VR1 on this list actually carries the 2000ppm zzdp that FP recomends, but the rest of the list do have an elevated zzdp content over regular passenger car oils.

Another cheaper good oil is Brad Penn

 

[Calan]

Go with FP's recommended oils.

I run Brad Penn 20w-50, although I may switch to a 10w-40 if it gets really cold.

 

[TWOpointFORliter]

I run nothing but Brad Penn in my car. It is great oil with a high zinc content and is half the price of the mobil 1 crap oil.

Welcome!

 

[Boomdeeze]

Go with FP's recommended oils.

I run Brad Penn 20w-50, although I may switch to a 10w-40 if it gets really cold.

I run the same oil, what oil pressure are you seeing at idle and WOT?

 

[daren_p]

While oils with a better additives package are always a good idea, think FP's main concern when they wrote that article have to deal with guys running their stock appearing turbo's & pushing them to their limits. If your running a BB turbo I wouldn't think this would be as much of a concern. We also have a nice roller valve train from factory which also helps to get away with "less quality" oil.

With that being said, I always use to run Mobil1, changed ~every 3.5K miles. When I took apart the stock motor (90K), everything still looked great. Have ran 25+psi for the past 3 summers on my 3052 & it still appears in great shape.

After reading that, I have since switched to Amsoil. They have synthetics that are on FP recommended list & it turns out I found a local dealer that I can buy Amsoil from cheeper then Mobil1 (even cheeper then Mobil1 goes on sale for)

 

[JusMX141]

SORRY IF THIS IS A REPOST I LOOKED BUT DIDNT FIND ANYTHING....

Nah, we've never discussed oil on this site before.




Wait a minute....


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/50612-oil-merged-1-8-a.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/5215-synthetic-oil-merged-16.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/17735-what-oil-should-i-use-merged-2-7-a.html

Ah, yeah.

 

[Ludachris]

As Justin pointed out, albeit a little more harshly than he probably should have, this topic is covered in our FAQ forum. Please check that forum before starting a new thread you think might have been covered a lot in the past. Chances are, it's indexed in that forum (the Frequently Answered Question forum, that is). You should be able to join in on an existing discussion instead of starting a new one.