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what kind of paint to use to paint transmission

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trackfwd

Probationary Member
26
0
Nov 30, 2009
San Diego, California
I'm in the process of replacing my clutch and wanted to clean up my transmission/paint it a non shiny silver,any recommendations on spray paints
 
You can use some high temp paint from autozone, I wouldn't recommend using regular paint as the tranny will be heating up.

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Wow that looks awesome,thats what I'm looking for, what kind of high heat paint do you recommend TiradoCC as for brand wise,thanks
 
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AutoZone.com | High Heat Paint

Go to the very bottom, they make a "flat aluminum" color.
This will be good for what you have in mind without breaking the bank.
Just keep in mind that if the tranny is not prepped correctly it won't matter if you buy $1 paint or $100 paint.

Also, this is not what was used on the tranny pictured. Can't give away all of our secrets :thumb:
 
AutoZone.com | High Heat Paint

Go to the very bottom, they make a "flat aluminum" color.
This will be good for what you have in mind without breaking the bank.
Just keep in mind that if the tranny is not prepped correctly it won't matter if you buy $1 paint or $100 paint.

Also, this is not what was used on the tranny pictured. Can't give away all of our secrets :thumb:



Thanks again TiradoCC
 
If you got a buddy with one of those cheap hand held sand blasters just use that and make sure you get anything plugged, taped, and protected from the abrassive and wear the proper protective gear. It will look all nice again and if spots have some corrosion or discoloring hit it with the eastwood.
 
I never tried that other stuff i had but it didnt hold up, since the car is down im just going to glassbead it, i used a lot of that looks like new.
 
A little time has passed since these threads started. I just glass beaded my case and i don't want it to corrode. I'm torn between painting it or a matte clear. How well has anybodys alumablast or parts store paint held up? If i paint it I'm leaning toward alumablast. I'd really like to clean up the hardware too but i just can't justify new bolts.
 
I'd really like to clean up the hardware too but i just can't justify new bolts.

Have you thought about buying something like a Harbor freight vibratory tumbler to clean the hardware up and then use some simple electrolysis to recoat them? I keep telling myself I'm going to get a tumbler, but haven't yet. I've seen several YouTube vids of people using the tumblers with some great success.

Personally, I have several 5 gal buckets of 1g and 2g hardware from some cars I stripped totally bare. I going to be diving into electrolysis this summer for some projects. Might have to try doing some hardware.
 
Have you thought about buying something like a Harbor freight vibratory tumbler to clean the hardware up and then use some simple electrolysis to recoat them? I keep telling myself I'm going to get a tumbler, but haven't yet. I've seen several YouTube vids of people using the tumblers with some great success.

Personally, I have several 5 gal buckets of 1g and 2g hardware from some cars I stripped totally bare. I going to be diving into electrolysis this summer for some projects. Might have to try doing some hardware.
I have considered this. I also thought I should hit the junkyard and go under the dash of some newer mitsubishi to get clean bolts. Good place for non structural hardware.
I had a 5 gallon bucket years ago fir the same reason. Tornado took it.
 
on the last acura i did, i did a quick polish on the tranny with blue magic metal polish (from napa). it leaves a silicone coating to protect the metal.

in this picture the shifter cable bracket is painted with VHT aluminum. VHT painted parts need to be baked at 200F for an hour or so which is why i decided to use polish the transmission instead of painting it.
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this picture shows the difference between the VHT and the polished parts pretty good.
the PS pump and oil pan got VHT paint. The alternator, intake mani, and fuel rail got a quick polish.
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this is what it looked like before
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I use Krylon 1403 Dull Aluminum and it has lasted on SBC intake manifolds, I would think it would hold up on a transmission also.
 
Since I have my trans out and fully disassembled and will be waiting on parts I ordered I figured I might paint it in the meantime. Since I'm not looking to go fancy I picked up a can of Duplicolor aluminum color engine enamel that's rated up to 500F:


Of course I'll first clean all outside surfaces thoroughly and scratch them up so the paint adheres. I have several questions though.

One, do I need to prime it first, and if so does it have to be high heat primer, such as Duplicolor's own engine enamel primer, or Rustoleum high heat engine primer, which I already have? Or can I use Rustoleum self-etching primer, which I also already have and have used with much success, albeit on non-high temp parts?

Two, should I use a clear top coat?

And three, I'm thinking of putting the case together, without internal parts or bolts (gravity should take care of sufficiently sealing mating surfaces), bell housing end down, all openings masked (including bolt holes), and painting it that way. Would that work?

Any other pointers, tips, things to watch out for, etc.?

Oh, I was also hoping to clean, derust & paint the t-case. Same answers, or somewhat different, especially for the cast iron (steel?) half? Is it also high heat?
 
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I run that Krylon 1403 on Water Pumps and intake manifolds and have since the 70's. It always held up fine. Here is what it looks like on plain Cast Iron (but now looks like a Corvette HP Aluminum water pump).
It makes things look like fresh cleaned aluminum.
Same for the Krylon 9203 Semi-Flat Black if you want something to look like fresh black plastic. :thumb:
Tips from the 1970's. Glad they still make those colors. I had O'Riellys order both and now they stock them.

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A little time has passed since these threads started. I just glass beaded my case and i don't want it to corrode. I'm torn between painting it or a matte clear. How well has anybodys alumablast or parts store paint held up? If i paint it I'm leaning toward alumablast. I'd really like to clean up the hardware too but i just can't justify new bolts.

I'm sure you've long since found a solution and put the trans back on, but for anyone who's faced with the same dilemma, what I've done, if the hardware is still usable, is use a wire wheel drill attachment to remove as much rust and crud from them as possible, then paint them with clear topcoat so they don't get rusty all over again.

This usually does the trick and the hardware looks almost new. It also cleans up the threads which I imagine makes for a more secure fit, more accurate torque reading, and allows a clean coat of threadlock or antiseize to be applied, as needed.

The right way to secure the hardware is probably with a vise or vise-grip pliers (don't smush the threads though!), but I've usually just held the parts carefully with my fingers using cheap gloves and basically sacrificed the gloves.

Also, make sure to clean the threads of any through or blind holes using a metal wire pipe cleaner, and if it's a blind hole make sure to blow out the removed debris.

Still wondering if I need to prime the trans before painting it though, and if so with what.
 
Aluma blast is your best bet for a silver TRANS paint, but honestly it all looks like shit over time.

I paint all my trains either Duplicolor semi gloss black, cast iron, or just flat black primer. Three years down the road they look just the same!!

Uninstalled is a black with a metallic flake in it.
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Installed is the low gloss black
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one on cardboard is cast iron

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Nice jobs, those look really nice. Did you prime?
 
Did you paint the bell housing, or is that bad?
 
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