XC92
Proven Member
- 1,573
- 362
- Jul 22, 2020
-
Queens,
New_York
I'm about to drop the trans on my '92 Talon TSi AWD manual, to replace the shot clutch and hopefully fix an issue with the trans where it pops out of 1st gear under load (but not with the clutch pedal pressed).
I won't be able to know what's causing this let alone fix it until I take the trans case off and probably remove both gear stacks and see what's going on, but hopefully it's one of the more typical causes, like loose staked nuts or a bad shift fork (and for all I know it's a loose shift or select lever).
I understand that at certain points doing trans work, you have to place several small pieces of solder on various races and bearings, close the case, torque it to spec, then reopen it to measure the width of the partially crushed solder with a caliper, to tell what spacer widths you need to use.
What I'm wondering is, if I don't have to take the stacks apart and the issue is something simpler, like the nuts, fork or levers, do I still have to do this, especially if there's no shaft play?
If so, what kind of solder? I understand that it has to be 1.6mm or 0.62" in width. I only have thinner kind for electronics work I've done, so I'd have to get some.
Does it matter if it's solid, hollow, rosin or acid core, or leaded or lead-free?
Is there any other, unrelated work one might have to do on the car that would require one or the other kind of solder, either electrical work or repairing an exhaust hole (I assume the latter would require acid-based solder), so I could get that kind for potential future double duty (assuming it'll work for this task)?
...Ok, while I'm at it, 3 other semi-related questions.
One, I understand that when I put it back together, I have to apply RTV as there are no actual gaskets. Which kind do I use?
Two, I also understand that I'll need to apply grease at certain points. What kind? Right now I have several, silicon-based for brake caliper glide pins, general-purpose grease from a mini-cartridge for ball joints, and some really old white lithium grease I once used on my old road bike, when I repacked the bearings. Can I use any of these, or do I need another kind, e.g. moly?
Three, where should I use threadlock, and what kind? And do I need to use antiseize anywhere?
I won't be able to know what's causing this let alone fix it until I take the trans case off and probably remove both gear stacks and see what's going on, but hopefully it's one of the more typical causes, like loose staked nuts or a bad shift fork (and for all I know it's a loose shift or select lever).
I understand that at certain points doing trans work, you have to place several small pieces of solder on various races and bearings, close the case, torque it to spec, then reopen it to measure the width of the partially crushed solder with a caliper, to tell what spacer widths you need to use.
What I'm wondering is, if I don't have to take the stacks apart and the issue is something simpler, like the nuts, fork or levers, do I still have to do this, especially if there's no shaft play?
If so, what kind of solder? I understand that it has to be 1.6mm or 0.62" in width. I only have thinner kind for electronics work I've done, so I'd have to get some.
Does it matter if it's solid, hollow, rosin or acid core, or leaded or lead-free?
Is there any other, unrelated work one might have to do on the car that would require one or the other kind of solder, either electrical work or repairing an exhaust hole (I assume the latter would require acid-based solder), so I could get that kind for potential future double duty (assuming it'll work for this task)?
...Ok, while I'm at it, 3 other semi-related questions.
One, I understand that when I put it back together, I have to apply RTV as there are no actual gaskets. Which kind do I use?
Two, I also understand that I'll need to apply grease at certain points. What kind? Right now I have several, silicon-based for brake caliper glide pins, general-purpose grease from a mini-cartridge for ball joints, and some really old white lithium grease I once used on my old road bike, when I repacked the bearings. Can I use any of these, or do I need another kind, e.g. moly?
Three, where should I use threadlock, and what kind? And do I need to use antiseize anywhere?
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