What did you do to your DSM today?

[chrisman287]

Replacing my UEGO and this damn harness between the wbo2 and gauge is only like 6ft long Can I just cut and extend?

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[curt-s]

Probably, just make a good, soldered mechanical connection. But I'm surprised your cable isn't long enough. I used my MTXL in my 1g and currently in my 2g and have ample length, even when the WB is in the front o2. Is it because of the different with the MTXL using LSU4.2 and the MTXL Plus using LSU4.9? That makes me wonder because I was thinking of upgrading to the 4.9 this year :O

Same place too, up high on the pillar.

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[enriquez2000]

Probably, just make a good, soldered mechanical connection. But I'm surprised your cable isn't long enough. I used my MTXL in my 1g and currently in my 2g and have ample length, even when the WB is in the front o2. Is it because of the different with the MTXL using LSU4.2 and the MTXL Plus using LSU4.9? That makes me wonder because I was thinking of upgrading to the 4.9 this year :O

Same place too, up high on the pillar.

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The mtxl has 2 choices of wire length 5 or 8 ft. You must have gotten the 5.

Extending wont be a problem if done as mentioned above

 

[chrisman287]

Probably, just make a good, soldered mechanical connection. But I'm surprised your cable isn't long enough.

I’m just an idiot and was trying to route it like my UEGO that had 3x the cable length. Finished the install for the most part just have to put the ground to the ECU now

 

[curt-s]

I’m just an idiot and was trying to route it like my UEGO that had 3x the cable length. Finished the install for the most part just have to put the ground to the ECU now

I'd just double check before you ground to the ECU, especially the sensor ground, if that's what you're referring to. I thought the MTXL procedure was to have a clean ground only. I ground near the ECU at the center console frame.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

Personally I would order a longer cable. I have been in the low voltage industry since 1997 and despise having spliced wiring. Just another failure point in 2 years and you forgot you spliced that wire and are trying to figure out the problem.

If you must or insist on splicing, mount a small terminal block and terminate the wires there. This is a snapshot of the first one I see on Amazon. Anything similar to this.

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[chrisman287]

I'd just double check before you ground to the ECU, especially the sensor ground, if that's what you're referring to. I thought the MTXL procedure was to have a clean ground only. I ground near the ECU at the center console frame.

It actually stated to ground it to the battery. I went off of the LC1 instructions from ecmlink and used pin 92.

Is your switchpoint 2.35v?

If you must or insist on splicing, mount a small terminal block and terminate the wires there. This is a snapshot of the first one I see on Amazon. Anything similar to this.

I usually use non insulated butt connectors and heat shrink tubing but I didn’t have to extend the wires

 

[92AWDHX40]

Painting bay.

 

[92Turbski]

It actually stated to ground it to the battery. I went off of the LC1 instructions from ecmlink and used pin 92.

Is your switchpoint 2.35v?


I usually use non insulated butt connectors and heat shrink tubing but I didn’t have to extend the wires

Here's the Ecm link recommend install which recommended a chassis ground lug. Easy sauce. Haha

mtxinstall [ECMTuning - wiki]

ecmlink.com

 

[curt-s]

It actually stated to ground it to the battery. I went off of the LC1 instructions from ecmlink and used pin 92.

Is your switchpoint 2.35v?


I usually use non insulated butt connectors and heat shrink tubing but I didn’t have to extend the wires

I'd avoid the sensor ground. The mtxl instructions above are preferable. Don't mess with the sensor ground for a high current device like a wideband

 

[DSMPT]

Doing the regular valve clearance (lash) checkup and adjustment.

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[enriquez2000]

Thanks to @enriquez2000 the rotary tool sensai and @DreamChaser7 for the bit recommendation I'm knocking out this paint removal big time. Still takes time to get all the little bits and in the crevices but boy howdy I'm going to get there with the dang dremel

Thanks for my new title... Marty change my membership type to this!

Rotary tools can do cool stuff. Not an eclipse but did this with my old boosted accord for the need for speed led feel

Before

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Middle

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After

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[o0GuitarKid0o]

Looked at it , remembered i still need the driver side rubber door strip , waiting for winter to bugger off . Also waiting for ecmlink to arrive

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[cswindel]

So I'm stuck with some mismatched length and poorly cut studs for where the turbo bolts to the manifold so now I need to source these weirdly dimensioned studs or find one that is slightly larger so I can drill and tap the hole. Oh and the thread pitch on these studs is 1.5 so they are coarse

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[MindBlowin03]

Any of you fine gentlemen have any recommendations for things to do prior to me just slapping in the fuel rail and injectors? Any tips or quirks? Because every time I think something easy to install will be easy there is always something I stumble upon that makes me pump the brakes.

Nothing too special really. I like to install the injectors into the rail first. Be sure to lightly lube the o-rings and after install make sure they can be twisted in the rail and nothing is binding. Then, I install the lower insulators into the head and slowly lower the rail/injectors into position. After torquing the bolts I then make sure the injectors will twist/spin. They should be snug but not tight or binding up.

 

[enriquez2000]

Nothing too special really. I like to install the injectors into the rail first. Be sure to lightly lube the o-rings and after install make sure they can be twisted in the rail and nothing is binding. Then, I install the lower insulators into the head and slowly lower the rail/injectors into position. After torquing the bolts I then make sure the injectors will twist/spin. They should be snug but not tight or binding up.

1 trick i have used for years is dielectric grease as my lube on seals

 

[steve]

Some people have issues with the spacers falling out of place while they are installing the rail. Once they fall under the intake manifold they are a pain to find.

Some tape, or adhesive to hold them in place while you get the injectors into the insulators helps.
If you use tape remember to remove it one you get the bolts started and don't over torque them.

 

[chrisman287]

Here's the Ecm link recommend install which recommended a chassis ground lug. Easy sauce. Haha

I'd avoid the sensor ground. The mtxl instructions above are preferable. Don't mess with the sensor ground for a high current device like a wideband

Interesting I was going off the LC1 write up. I can switch the ground around but it seemed to work fine. Thanks guys

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Interesting I was going off the LC1 write up. I can switch the ground around but it seemed to work fine. Thanks guys

My tuner has me ground my gauge to the same ground as the ECU is , which is what Curt is doing. It helps make the gauge and the ECU read the same. I followed his instructions and my gauge and ECMlink matched up, but they didn't before I grounded the gauge at the same point as the ECU. Just a tip to pass on that has already been mentioned.

 

[curt-s]

Interesting I was going off the LC1 write up. I can switch the ground around but it seemed to work fine. Thanks guys

Both the chassis and that sensor ground are grounds, yes, so it would work. Right now.

The thing is, the ground for the gauge and the sensor both originate from that one wire. By connecting it to your sensor ground, you're at risk of blowing the sensor ground if your gauge or the sensor wiring shorts. It's a high current device as it is and the sensor ground is meant for low current devices. There's absolutely no benefit of plumbing to the sensor ground and only all risk.

Innovate says the best ground source is right at the battery negative post. If you don't want to run a wire all the way there, the next best is a clean chassis source.

blownsensorground [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

From ecmtuning themselves:
If you install a high-current device, like a WBO2 kit for example, powered off sensor ground or you short an O2 sensor somehow, you can blow this ground track inside the ECU.

 

[19Eclipse90]

So I'm stuck with some mismatched length and poorly cut studs for where the turbo bolts to the manifold so now I need to source these weirdly dimensioned studs or find one that is slightly larger so I can drill and tap the hole. Oh and the thread pitch on these studs is 1.5 so they are coarse

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Gotta ask - you’re positive that they aren’t 3/8” - 16?

16 TPI equates to 0.0625 inch pitch, just larger than a metric 1.5mm pitch (0.06 inches). The diameter is too large for a M9 and too small for a M10. I’d expect the diameter to be slightly under the nominal measure (.375), though .364 (9.25 mm) is slightly under what I would expect to see.

Might be worth a double-check.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

Some people have issues with the spacers falling out of place while they are installing the rail. Once they fall under the intake manifold they are a pain to find.

Some tape, or adhesive to hold them in place while you get the injectors into the insulators helps.
If you use tape remember to remove it one you get the bolts started and don't over torque them.

Man you'r giving me flashbacks I'm sure there's about 5 somewhere on the road in my city that i gave up on trying to get. I have like 10 as spares for this reason

Not as bad as when I dropped a bolt into my timing cover and had to drive my car the next day for work thankfully was able to crack the lower cover and it fell out ,

 

[92AWDHX40]

Replace e brake cables, polished up done stuff ordered wire stuff.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

I started tearing the engine down to take the head to machine shop, do all timing related stuff, install 20g, 2g exhaust manifold (still have to port and polish it), install 1200cc injectors and hopefully get the DSMLink set up and tune the car.

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[cswindel]

Gotta ask - you’re positive that they aren’t 3/8” - 16?

16 TPI equates to 0.0625 inch pitch, just larger than a metric 1.5mm pitch (0.06 inches). The diameter is too large for a M9 and too small for a M10. I’d expect the diameter to be slightly under the nominal measure (.375), though .364 (9.25 mm) is slightly under what I would expect to see.

Might be worth a double-check.

I'll pull the measurements against SAE metrics and see what I get. I should have thought to do that with all the mismatched madness I've seen on the car already. I wouldn't be surprised if they are SAE