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What did you do to your DSM today?

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Well at any time you can have a piece of carbon release from anywhere in the combustion chamber, behind the exhaust valves, or from the manifold itself. You have zero control over when something might release, so you're peppering the turbine wheel quite constantly with chunks of carbon. Unavoidable. For those on pump gas, the amount of "engine cleaning detergents" also increases the buildup.
Cleaning the manifold and exhaust ports isn't a bad idea when you can, but it's mainly to restore the original volume. If something hit the turbine blade and caused damage, it had to have enough mass to do so, and carbon flakes ain't it.

Side conversation: Direct injection engines have this problem constantly on the intake side because there's no port injection cleaning the valves. Some cars actually require the IM be removed and the intake ports manually cleaned. There's another way around that sometimes, and it's the 'italian tuneup', but I can only imagine what my CX5's intake ports look like now that i've got 100k+ km (>60k mi) on it.
I've attached pictures of the manifold but yeah that makes sense. I guess I'm just trying to do as much preventative stuff/cleaning as I possibly can. I'm too particular for my own good but with all that you said I suppose that with where it is currently at, the manifold can be installed. Just trying to do everything I possibly can to make this rebuild as smooth/reliable as I can but I'm probably at the point of diminishing returns.

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I'm not saying you're doing anything wrong. Far from it, you're performing mindful maintenance and cleaning along the way. It's only a net benefit there. How much? Who knows, but you feel good getting it done. I'll be cleaning out my e3 mani just the same as you when it's time to reassemble.

I'm just saying don't worry yourself about your turbine blades with respect to carbon deposits.

How far is it from the top of the collector to the top of that flange? Internally speaking. The longer focal length results in a lot of compression in the photo.
 
I've attached pictures of the manifold but yeah that makes sense. I guess I'm just trying to do as much preventative stuff/cleaning as I possibly can. I'm too particular for my own good but with all that you said I suppose that with where it is currently at, the manifold can be installed. Just trying to do everything I possibly can to make this rebuild as smooth/reliable as I can but I'm probably at the point of diminishing returns.

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I’m with you man, I want to do everything possible, so when the shit does hit the fan (/blade…insert pun) I don’t blame myself, too much anyways. Lol
 
I'm not saying you're doing anything wrong. Far from it, you're performing mindful maintenance and cleaning along the way. It's only a net benefit there. How much? Who knows, but you feel good getting it done. I'll be cleaning out my e3 mani just the same as you when it's time to reassemble.

I'm just saying don't worry yourself about your turbine blades with respect to carbon deposits.

How far is it from the top of the collector to the top of that flange? Internally speaking. The longer focal length results in a lot of compression in the photo.
Oh yeah no I gotcha man! I'm going to see what more I can do within reason but just shedding some light on that side of things is refreshing. Kind of puts some ease on the stress of trying to get this thing spic and span. Like I said I'm going to do what I can but you putting the reality of it in the equation does help because yeah it is unavoidable once you get to a certain point but by all means do what you can while you have the parts separated

Finished up with all my small things. Just need to add all the fluids and a quick clean up and then first start of the season.

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Dude that thing is CLEAN! The spark plug wire cover though, that's a piece
 
I'm about to make myself a freelancer on here and offer parts cleaning services with all the dang parts I've had to seriously clean up on this car. I'll also offer a port and polished valve cover after what I had to do to mine. In all seriousness though the valve cover turned out pretty alright. Just need to rinse and wash then I can finally throw it on. Shoutout again to the people that gave me some good advice, made this a less painful process!

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Very nicely done. Spend a good deal of time cleaning up above the baffles and you're set.

Summary from my build thread:
- removed the last three valves and springs/etc. My intake valve seals need to be replaced -- crusty oil on the backside, and the valves just basically dropped out of the head OMG
- Exhausts are ok but not 100%.. I ordered up a set anyway because I might as well just do them all at the same time.
- checked step height of my new Streetlite flywheel and it's between .608-.609 everywhere I measured, inside and outside areas of the friction surface.
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So I'm taking my best guess at this after searching for a good diagram but to no avail. But is this correct stud and large bolt placement for the 1g intake manifold?

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Removed brake master, bled brakes, removed paint from bay gonna change the color of the car to final spray starting in the bay. Worked on wire harness.
 
So I'm taking my best guess at this after searching for a good diagram but to no avail. But is this correct stud and large bolt placement for the 1g intake manifold?

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Yes.

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Any of you fine gentlemen have any recommendations for things to do prior to me just slapping in the fuel rail and injectors? Any tips or quirks? Because every time I think something easy to install will be easy there is always something I stumble upon that makes me pump the brakes.
 
I don’t have any help here just more questions. What setup are you going to use to regulate fuel pressures? Once I thought I had that part figured out I saw more posts here (can’t remember where at the moment) that made me think I needed to go back to drawing board.
 
niiiiiiiiice

never hurts to have a backup way of getting around. if you go SD, protect and tuck away your MAF harness connector, don't bother cutting it. Splice your IAT and MAP connections into the harness cleanly.
It's a lot to tow around, it might even be worthwhile keeping your MAF in the back.. that way, if your MAP sensor goes, you can at least still get home.

Although, It's much easier to just keep a spare MAP sensor in the car, though. Saves a possible tow in case it decides to shit on you.


Edit: what did I do? I took delivery of a small amount of 1/8 NPT - 3/16 barb brass fittings for the IR 3port solenoid, and 180 degree HDMI and usb c adapters for the touch LCD.
Fun day.
 
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