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Tubular rear subframe - Input needed

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I'll post a reply to you tomorrow or Monday, Phil.

Ran outta beer so I'm calling it a night. 8 more connections to go. Here's a teaser pic. More pics to come tomorrow. :)


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Well, I appreciate that. I know this isn't a complete mock up but I still thought I'd ask, do you plan on incorporating rear diff bracing similar to the Boston Hatcher mounts too?

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:dsm:
 

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Yup. Both side of the pinion will be braced and tied into the subframe. I'll have those parts done tonight, so I'll post a pic of how it will be set-up.

Here's a couple more progress pics:

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More coming tonight. :)
 

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Thanks gents. :) I'm very happy with how it's coming together so far.

I have 3 connections to make on the passenger side and then one bent tube to fit in over the pinion, and we'll be ready to assembly weld it. We'll knock out the control arms and toe arms at the same time. Then, I'll just have to figure out sway bar mounting, and it'll be ready to rock. :thumb:


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I hope it's a big towel cause if your drooling like me you have a lake to clean up.
 
Thanks! I'm hoping to get it on a running/driving car for testing in about a month.

For each connection that I've made, I also made a duplicate piece and I'll use those as 'reference bars' that I'll use for speeding up production on all subsequent subframes. So, once the design proves itself, I should be in the position to make these pretty quickly. But I need to test this first one for a bit before I get ahead of myself. :)

Also, I'm going to calculate an estimated weight today.
 
Hey guys,

I'm looking for a tie rod end that has a small stud to match the factory stud size on the 2G toe arms. I thought I had a good option lined up but I just measure it and I think it's going to be way too big. I don't have factory stud dimensions handy right now, but I'll measure and post when I get home today.

I can use one with 5/8" or 3/4" thread. If you know of something that may work, please let me know of a brand and/or part number.


EDIT: Looks like the factory stud is about .540" at the smallest end and about .585" at the largest useable part of the other end. And about .390" at the thread, although that doesn't matter much.
 

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That is some fine fab work right there!!!

If you wanted to get fancy with the tie rod end you could use a cyntrical ball style the the pre-runner guys are using, if interest I could dig up pics for you, Blue Torch fab is in my back yard and has tons of that stuff laying around, the owner owes me a solid for some engine work I did for him maybe I can hook you up.
 
Paul... I would check with Speedway Motors. They have about every link imaginable with good quality and reasonable pricing. (That is where I bought the links to make my sway bar ends).

EDIT:

No guarantees on exactly what you need, but here are a few of them. They probably have more that may not be listed.

Male RH Rod Ends With Stud - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Thanks for the post Craig.

I really want to use a tapered stud if I can find the right size. Although, I know Magnus used that same type of connection for their toe arm years ago. Not sure if they still do.

Nice write-up by the way. :thumb:

Looks like the factory stud is about .540" at the smallest end and about .585" at the largest useable part of the other end. And about .390" at the thread, although that doesn't matter much.

That is some fine fab work right there!!!

If you wanted to get fancy with the tie rod end you could use a cyntrical ball style the the pre-runner guys are using, if interest I could dig up pics for you, Blue Torch fab is in my back yard and has tons of that stuff laying around, the owner owes me a solid for some engine work I did for him maybe I can hook you up.

Thank you, sir. I think I know what you're tacking about with the housing, ball, and studd being separate pieces. But, I'd still have to find a stud that fit without reaming.

Post or PM me with a pic of what youre talking about just in case it's something other than what I'm thinking about.
 
Well, I calculated the weight of all brackets and ends, as well as the tubing per inch. The subframe assembly minus bolts and arms should weight in at about 270 ounces. A whopping 16.9 lbs! :D


Here's some comparison pics of the two bolts. The grade 5 weighs 6.48 oz. and the 4130 tube bolt weighs 3.75 oz. That almost a difference of 3/4 lb. in just 4 bolts!

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And the heims and spacers fit perfectly inside the inboard brackets. Those guys could not have bent these brackets any better. :)

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Is the rear diff on a 3si any stronger than a DSM?

I know the rear trailing arms on a 1g are almost the same, as there has been some discussions about swapping in 3si rear brakes/hubs/trailing arms. If you swapped in the rear diff, you should be able to use the axles and trailing arms.

All I can say about the 3s rear end is they hold 1000+ HP stock if seen 10+ cars in this class, but at power level the half shafts can brake, and the 3s is just over 6ft wide, so I'm sure the half shafts would need to be shortened
 
Here is a pic.

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