Tubular rear subframe - Input needed

[greengoblin]

Love it!!! Looks very stout.

 

[ViciousLord]

i'm still holding out until I redo my suspension just so i can buy this piece. I'm very eager to see the finished product and final cost.

 

[woooop]

Put me down for 1

 

[UGOT8UP]

Looks substantial!!!

 

[99gst_racer]

Thanks guys!

 

[Yamahaulin]

I can't help myself but to keep coming back checking to see if there are more pics. I'm ready for one of these bad boys.

 

[FLASH1970]

Looks nice. Is that a mid 70's VW Type 1 (Beetle) in the background in one of the pics...?

 

[turbo23]

Looks nice. Is that a mid 70's VW Type 1 (Beetle) in the background in one of the pics...?

, beatle is accually a 69, 1500cc.. just putting the engine back in today!

Subframe looks great Paul! looks even better in person, cant wait to see it out of the jig!

 

[ViciousLord]

waiting for an update

 

[99gst_racer]

I cut and tacked the lower control arms and the toe arms today. These are very beefy and road course ready. They're lighter than the stockers but probably not by much. I can also do a lighter set for a drag specific car to help save bit more weight. These arms use heat treated and teflon lined heims, so they're incredibly strong and self lubricating.

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Compared to the stock arms:

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I also did some more reading on the toe arms. It seems that lowering the outboard connection will compliment raising the inboard pick-ups. And it can easily be done by moving the spacers around on the stud. This pic shows both options.

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I also turned some reducer spacers to allow 5/8" heims to fit to my inboard brackets. This allows a smaller, lighter heim and a smaller diameter tube on the toe arms which helps with clearances and weight.

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More updates in a couple days!

 

[bmoha7321]

Geez Paul! This is turning into car porn!

 

[snowborder714]

Those arms look pimp!! Now, how to take some of those ideas and make arms for my FWD

 

[99gst_racer]

Thanks guys.

Brian, it would be pretty easy to make a set for a FWD 2G. It's just a matter of getting the length right and turning some stand-offs for the inboard heims.

 

[fjm9898]

What kinda Sway bar setup are you going for?

 

[99gst_racer]

Probably going to be set up for a stock style sway bar. It would take a good amount of time and money to implement a torsion bar set-up. So, I'll probably opt for the cheaper and easier configuration that everyone already has on their car.

Attaching the sway bar and then attaching the end links is all I have left to figure out. Shouldn't be too complicated though.

On a similar note; I'll be jigging up up a front k-member next week!

 

[DSM_PWR]

On a similar note; I'll be jigging up up a front k-member next week!

.... and a front subframe as well??

 

[99gst_racer]

.... and a front subframe as well??

k-member = front subframe

Anytime I call it a subframe, someone corrects me with 'k-member'. I can never win.

 

[greengoblin]

It a k-member according to the FSM so I always think that is what it's best called. Great work there sir! Those arms are beef cake.

 

[snowborder714]

Another technicality with that is that some rule books don't allow modification to the subframe. Since this is know as a k-member per the FSM, it will pass. Correct Kevin?

 

[greengoblin]

A flat section or some knurling would be nice to make turning the arms easier but that's just nit picking.

 

[greengoblin]

Another technicality with that is that some rule books don't allow modification to the subframe. Since this is know as a k-member per the FSM, it will pass. Correct Kevin?

That is a very grey area that has not been tested to my knowledge. I do plan on having both and seeing at some point though.

Kevin

 

[greengoblin]

Also Paul was there a reason you did not have a threaded clevis on the out borad pick up on the rear lateral arm? Just curious.

 

[DSM_PWR]

k-member = front subframe

Anytime I call it a subframe, someone corrects me with 'k-member'. I can never win.

Ah I figured it might be

either way i so excited!

 

[99gst_racer]

A flat section or some knurling would be nice to make turning the arms easier but that's just nit picking.

I had considered that. In fact, for anything 1.25" or larger, the LH threaded ends come with a hex. But nothing for smaller size tube like I used. They should be relatively easy to grip and spin by hand though. I know the ones that are currently on my 2G are that easy.

Also Paul was there a reason you did not have a threaded clevis on the out borad pick up on the rear lateral arm? Just curious.

I couldn't find a clevis of the correct dimensions. It's an odd spacing and hole size. Also, these brackets cost me a fraction of what a clevis and threaded tube end would have. And we're not missing out on any adjustment here either. Once the end links are attached, the bar wouldn't be allowed to spin anymore for adjustment. That shouldn't be too detrimental either. It simply limits adjustments at the inboard heim to increments of .0312" instead of infinite.

 

[talont3t4]

You got a PM Paul!