Tubular rear subframe - Input needed

[turbo23]

does anyone have an idea where they want the rear roll center to be? moving the lower pick-up points up is going to raise the roll center a bunch, especially with no good way to move the UCA mounting points.. it will deff require a different rear srping and anti-roll bar package.

 

[FLASH1970]

Any updated pics?

 

[99gst_racer]

Nope. Changing the bracket design up a bit has set it back another couple weeks. It seems my order is low priority at the machine shop.

 

[talont3t4]

Any updates on this?

 

[fjm9898]

besides the one he posted a few days ago saying it was going to take weeks?

 

[dsmornothing]

I thought fabricators were supposed to make their own brackets and tabs?

 

[Calan]

I thought fabricators were supposed to make their own brackets and tabs?

Only the ones that aren't smart enough to outsource certain components when it makes more sense.

 

[talont3t4]

besides the one he posted a few days ago saying it was going to take weeks?

Miss read the date stamp on his post Also any word on a front cross memmber the same as this rear piece? I'm going to have to make my own rear one anyway since I'm not running the same rear diff but was hoping to not have to fabricate the front too

 

[twicks69]

I'm in for the mild steel, Paul, and if I'm replacing the entire rear subframe with this piece I'd rather not use the stock control arms either. Retaining the factory gas tank would be a must too, since in the future I plan on upgrading to the FF tank that Andrew builds which bolts in like factory.

What parts out of this pile will I be able to use or be replaced on this tubular subframe?

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No sir. Here's the FF diff cover for the 1g, if thats why your asking?

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Looking forward to seeing the finished product here Paul.

Speaking of rear diff covers, I am sure some of you guys saw the newest variation....

Here is the 1G Cover finished:

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Here are drawings of the 2G Cover (it is in the process of machining currently)

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Thought you guys would like to see its progression!

As well, Andrew hasn't forgotten about the front cross member, he's simply been busy and he is a one-man show like so many of us trying to help out the community.

 

[bastarddsm]

that Looks like an awful lot of expense to spend on a garbage center section. Better be prepared to update to an EvoIII+ diff....

 

[twicks69]

that Looks like an awful lot of expense to spend on a garbage center section. Better be prepared to update to an EvoIII+ diff....

I have been running an Evo 3 diff in a 2g housing for over a race season without issues on the old version cover with the billet front mounts from Boston Hatcher, no problems here.

 

[talont3t4]

I have been running an Evo 3 diff in a 2g housing for over a race season without issues on the old version cover with the billet front mounts from Boston Hatcher, no problems here.

I would imagine that a tubular cross member would eliminate the diff cover problems by eliminating the flex in the sub frame itself.

 

[twicks69]

I would imagine that a tubular cross member would eliminate the diff cover problems by eliminating the flex in the sub frame itself.

Well yeah, if you were running stock diff and subframe bushings and the 3 mount stock setup vs. a tubular subframe, the tubular would be better if it was set up properly. I don't think that there is much "give" in my current setup with solid bushings everywhere and the 4 mounts holding the rear diff to the subframe with a plate steel diff cover. The ring/pinion will be the next fail point I am guessing, or the driveshaft or Tcase; those are still stock on my car.

 

[bastarddsm]

I have been running an Evo 3 diff in a 2g housing for over a race season without issues on the old version cover with the billet front mounts from Boston Hatcher, no problems here.

That's exactly what I meant. I can't fathom spending any money on the rear end, unless a EVOIII clutch type diff is on the list.

I know its off topic, but whats the deal with the axle cups on a EVOIII diff? Tre says you just need a non LSD one to replace the one with a snout. But then I read that you actually need the EVOIII specific ones, so which way is it?

 

[twicks69]

That's exactly what I meant. I can't fathom spending any money on the rear end, unless a EVOIII clutch type diff is on the list.

I know its off topic, but whats the deal with the axle cups on a EVOIII diff? Tre says you just need a non LSD one to replace the one with a snout. But then I read that you actually need the EVOIII specific ones, so which way is it?

You simply need two non LSD inner cups or the short LSD inner cup in each end, they are the same part. The DSS axles I have did not come with circlips so you need to install those before installing the axles.

 

[99gst_racer]

I switched suppliers on the bracketry and they got on the job quick. I just got a box of them in the mail today. As soon as I kick this head cold, I'll get out in the garage and get this subframe finished. Look for pics in about a week.

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[Calan]

Those came out pretty nice from the looks of it.

 

[Aproductions]

Awesome, can't wait to see the finished product. Keep us posted!

 

[TofastForU_99]

Looks like some progress. Looking good man

 

[99gst_racer]

Thanks guys.

Yeah, they did a fantastic job on the brackets. And the price was excellent too, so it helped keep costs down.

 

[Calan]

And the price was excellent too, so it helped keep costs down.

Does that mean you can afford to get started on that 1G fixture now?

 

[99gst_racer]

Does that mean you can afford to get started on that 1G fixture now?

I'm moving all my stuff to a brand new pole barn in about 3 weeks. So, I'll have more room for more projects again. And I'll be able to work on my dizzum again. I'll see about borrowing a 1G rear subframe from a buddy and building a fixture for it. It might be slow progress on it, but I'm sure I can whip up something pretty nice.

 

[Calan]

That would be most awesome

 

[snowborder714]

Craig, you know that's only after he does the front unit for the 2g

 

[Calan]

Pffff... you wouldn't even have your car ready for one for another 3 years.