ECMlink Trying to get linear WB to work

[Rsawd95dsm]

I'm trying to get my MTX-L WB gauge to match what's on ECMlink. My car is way off from tune, I haven't messed with anything other than injector and dead time set up and TPS adjustment. Once the car warms up the WB gauge in my car sits at 22.4 and doesn't move till I give it some gas. I understand how to make the volt adjustments on ECMLink, but just don't get how to get the gauge in my car to read 14.7 so I can make the adjustments needed so the LinearWB in ECMlink can read the same as my gauge in the car.

 

[iaintmaci]

Are you logging your wideband? If so, is the wideband reading in link 22.4? If the wideband gauge is reading 22.4, you may either need to calibrate your sensor, or you are running WAY too lean.

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

Im logging it in link under LinWideband. And its about 1.3 off when on the throttle. When at idle the WB gauge in my car reads 22.4 and link LinWideband will read 19 at idle. As soon and I give it a little throttle my gauge will read something like 16 and the Linwideband in link will read 14.7.

 

[Calan]

...or you are running WAY too lean.

He could definitely be lean, but if his AFR was truly 22.4:1, I doubt the car would even run.

Sounds like something isn't configured correctly in the WB software, or there is a wiring issue.

OP- post up pics and a log.

 

[red_devil]

I would re check your wiring, I would also make sure that your ground for the gauge is in a good spot and not combined with anything else. If everything is good then try to recalibrate it then open up Logworks and see if everything is set up correctly. Where is your sensor located?

 

[gofer]

...or there's a really bad exhaust leak before the sensor.

 

[Black'95]

FWIW I agree completely with Calan and Gofer. I know my car will barely idle on its own at like 17:1, and even with the stock motor, it sounded like it had hellacious cams when idling that lean . I do know the Innovate widebands need to be calibrated, and also I thought DSMLink has a specific driver or whatever for the MTX, like they do for the LC1...

 

[iaintmaci]

I know my car idled way lean whenever I first installed link and my MTX-L. I cant remember if it was quite that lean though. I had to manually go in and adjust maf comp to get it anywhere near safe idle. I would definitely double check the wiring. Are you running o2 sim through link or the WB, or are you using the WB as a secondary?

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

No exhaust leaks just replaced all the gaskets on manifold, turbo to manifold, and downpipe. WB is about 36 inches down the downpipe. Has a brand new O2 for narrow band simulation, and WB is secondary just for logging. Ill double check the ground wire when I can get a chance later tonight. I can yank it out and re calibrate it tonight too while I'm at it. As for wiring I have the yellow wire into the EGR temp pin on the ECU (forget which one it is off hand).

If I'm not logging enough or enough stuff just let me know. These were merely idle logs trying to get the WB set up before any tuning. I can make another log tonight when I'm home.

 

[iaintmaci]

If you are using the MTX-L, set it under Innovative LC-1. That is how I have mine set up. Works wonderfully. Is the O2 sensor you have a stock replacement? If it is, you do not need to be simulating and O2 sensor. That is only if you are running a wideband as the only O2 sensor. After looking at your two logs, I am a little confused on how you actually have it set up.

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

I tried to set the MTX-L as LC-1 but they were still off. And the MTX-L is set just for logging and the new front O2 is a advance auto bosch replacement. And the front O2 is the one doing narrowband simulation.

 

[snowborder714]

So you have replaced the factory narrowband sensor with a wideband, correct?
What color wire do you have going into the ECU? What pin have you used as an input?

 

[gofer]

Did you do a "free-air" calibration to the wideband sensor before tightening down in the bung?

I recommend you do a quick sanity check of your tune, quit focusing on the WB gauge/sensor being the issue and verify your injector globals/deadtimes make sense. I can't view your logs from work but if the front o2 sensor is cycling around 0.5v while your car is idling and the WB is displaying and logging 22:1 then I'm guessing you didn't free air calibrate the gauge properly.

And, before you ask how, it's in the instructions that come with the MTX-L. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/MTX-L_Manual_1.1.pdf

 

[Calan]

I recommend you do a quick sanity check of your tune, quit focusing on the WB gauge/sensor being the issue and verify your injector globals/deadtimes make sense. I can't view your logs from work but if the front o2 sensor is cycling around 0.5v while your car is idling and the WB is displaying and logging 22:1 then I'm guessing you didn't free air calibrate the gauge properly.

I'm not sure we've established that he has a factory front O2. If not, he needs one. If he has one, I agree 100% Corey; use the factory front O2 to get things dialed in during closed loop, so that you have a good reference to compare the WB to.

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

Has a brand new narrowband 02 in the front. And the WB is about 36 inches down the exhaust. I have the yellow wire hooked to the EGR temp sensor (forget what pin number it is off the top of my head).

I have re calibrated it and I re grounded the ground wire also. I will have to get back to this thread as I think theres an oil blockage. Im going to take the motor out and redo some gaskets and clean the thing also. Will get back to this as soon as its done.

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

Update I got what needed to be done on the motor and car and now that I have it back up and running again I pulled another log and need advise. When the car was apart I did a free air calibration right before it went back together. As for the front O2 sensor it is brand new from a couple of months ago before I ripped the car apart. Gave it a BLT too and no leaks at 20 psi. My wideband is still reading at 22.4 once the car warms up. And still reads completely different then what LINK says its at. I have messed with the voltage output of the WB to set my own volt numbers but it still wont match up. My front O2 wont cycle till I give it a little gas either. As it gets about half way warm it just dies out. I am new to tuning and have read the ECMlink stuff hundreds of times but still don't quite get it. Any help would be much appreciated!

Not sure what I did but it idles better and now the WB on LINK and the gauge is pretty spot on. The gauge bounces a little bit more then link does but they are really close. I attached another log too.

For some reason the front O2 wont cycle.

 

[bryzenga]

Some things to consider and double check is your mechanical timing, ignition timing and your base fuel pressure.

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

I have done that as well. And I posted another log as well.

 

[bryzenga]

Hmm... I would look at them, but the only internet I can get is on my phone. Maybe if I get a free chance this weekend or next week, I could swing over for a look-see. Pm me if you would like.

 

[boost97gst]

Something is keeping you out of closed loop apparently. I havent looked at log but i would wager you're in open loop when the car warms up.

Ok, looked at a couple things. Youre locking it in open loop. I know of others who do this 100% of the time, maybe try unchecking that box.
Next, You are not simming narrow band. Why? I guess you have the stock NB sensor in place. Log that value and see what its reading. Try simulating NB and see what happens too

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

Ok I got NB simuluated and unchecked the open loop mode. (Never went to that section so I have no idea why that was checked). Car is warming back up to operating temps and will post a log in a minute.

Here's a 20 second or so log.

 

[boost97gst]

Looks way better. Youre cycling o2 now. Is your gauge agreeing with what im seeing in link?

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

Looks way better. Youre cycling o2 now. Is your gauge agreeing with what im seeing in link?

Which gauge?

Also noticed when I logged that my ISC it read 120! So I did the OHM check and it was bad. Luckily I had an extra laying around and it tested good so I slapped that on and tomorrow will preform another BLT to make sure its not leaking. But for now here's another 20 second log.

 

[jery1234]

Also airflow per rev is too hi 0.34 should be 0.25 . Isc position is sitting at 120 should bee 30. Global fuel is correct but 15ms global dead time is far too low for 1000cc injectors . Ad another 200ms in global dead time after that start to lower maf sliders 0 & 50 HZ until airflow per rev is 0.25-0.27 .Check STFT if is on + start adding global dead time until STFT is close to zero if is on - do the opposite . Do not forget to uncheck (lock in open loop mode) before that .

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

Alright fixed the ISC as it was bad. Moved the MAF sliders down and got the air flow per rev down to .26 .27 ish and added some global dead time too. Heres a new log also.