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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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Yep, sounds good. Although I might recommend a new timing belt if you can fit it in your budget. Just some better insurance.

Also remember to check your valves to make sure they aren't burnt or warped from heat. And new springs wouldn't hurt. A set of Kiggly beehives would help longevity. Just keeping in mind that those stock springs have been going so long very quickly, it will wear them out.

My shopping list would be: OEM head, intake and exhaust gaskets, ARP headstuds, a set of beehive springs and a gates blue timing belt.
 
Awesome I will look into that. My timing belt is a blue gates belt replaced when I did all the timing items. Although I do have a slight squeal when I start the car after I did all the timin not since my head gasket blown LOL, but I put a fluidampr and one of the Belts was soo tight I had to go and get the next size up, which was weird to me.

Anyways I'll take a look at all that and decided I appreciate all your help
 
After you fix what happend, do a BLT( Boost Leak test) There's a write up on how to make one.
Check for vaccum leaks at same time. That's take a spray bottle with soapy water go over all hoses.
You need items to monitor your engine, to reach your goals. Like a boost gauge, afpr guage, a wideband (not a A/F gauge those are lighting displays) New fuel pump wally 255 or the 180 model. Also, something to tune with ecmlink.

Check classifieds and supporting vendors on here.
 
My 96 had the same problem when i bought it except the oil light. and my rev limiter was wacked up but i ran the codes and had to replace my MAP sensor and it fixed both my problems


I actually recently had to replace my MAP sensor last year, so that should be ok, when that messed up i was only able to give limited throttle, otherwise if the turbo tried to go over like 4 psi it would stall out.

Also the MAF is plugged in, i might check it just to make sure its working properly. Will be checking the FPR also, since i have a spare that i know should work maybe ill switch them out see if its still doing the same thing.

Today im doing a vacuum delete, just to make sure that its not a vacuum problem at all. And also a compression test to see if that could possibly be a problem.

So i guess good news and bad news, finally figured out the problem, the fpr is working fine, vacuum is all good. Did the compression test, readings i got were 180 150 0 180... so head is bad. Hoping i can just swap that with my old one and everything will run fine so we'll see. And for the oil light, my oil sending unit was blocked up so bad, so replaced that and the oil pressure switch so hoping that fixes the light problem.
 
Update. I took off the map power wire from the tps and I was then able to get a voltage reading to set the tps. I grabbed power from the volumetric airflow pin, (pin 90). Before I grabbed power from there i tested it and it was 5 volts. when i hooked up the map power wire I read 2 volts :ohdamn:

Tried starting the car anyway. Didn't get anywhere. EXCEPT I can now get a reading from the tps.

I checked my timing by turning the engine by hand. all marks line up perfectly still

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Every time i set it to TDS and start the car it fires up perfectly but opnly idles for about 2-3 seconds.

If I try to start it right after that, it will just sputter/backfire/just crank and or wont even turn over.

HELP!
 

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Unless you have speed density you do not have a standard MAP sensor as the values are pulled from the MAF.
 
Is the MAF installed and also is the map sensor installed?

no the stock maf isnt there i traced back every wire from the maf and cut it at the ecu. i was told by tom from ecu tuning that this was ok and the stock maf was just a way to dial in SD. which I have no idea where tostart with that BTW :mad:

Unless you have speed density you do not have a standard MAP sensor as the values are pulled from the MAF.

I HAVE speed density. I have the SD bundle from ecmtuning with the omnipower 4 bar map sensor
 
Ok so I got the fuel issue straightened out my question is that now I am running lower compression do I need to adjust my timing with ECM link? I have fuel I have fire but it just goes blub blub and dies any pointers much appreciated should I disconnect the pipe to the throttle body so it gets more air? after a few attempt at starting I pulled the plugs and they are covered in fuel and I double checked the motor timing marks everything is dead on. I'm thinking I need to advance the timing with ECM link. Please help. Thanks guys:confused: by the way this is 99 gsx with 8.3 : 1 compression
 
Ok so I got the fuel issue straightened out my question is that now I am running lower compression do I need to adjust my timing with ECM link?
No.
should I disconnect the pipe to the throttle body so it gets more air?
No.

after a few attempt at starting I pulled the plugs and they are covered in fuel

Is your coolant sensor good?
Which CAS are you using?
Did you set base ignition timing if you are using an adjustable CAS?
Are you getting spark?
Are your plugs gapped to 0.028"?
 
Using stock 99 cam sensor I thought it was 180 out so I turned it and it's worse turned it back. It does have 850 cc injectors I'm going to double check the dead time and using oem ngk plugs that looked pre gaped. I'm going to double check spark and gap thanks
 
Did you test the CTS?

Get the temperature of your coolant with a thermometer and measure the ohms the sensor puts out.

Post that up. You solder your connections.
 
You have a Chrysler on you hands my friend and electrical problems are your pal:)
Look on the Avenger 420a sites for help, i had the same problem and did the same as you with the cam and crank sensors, the problems was the VSS ( vehicle speed sensor) its on top of tranny right under TB. It shorted out but my speedo work just fine............ but because the VSS was shorting randomly it would cut power to the cam and crank sensor turning the car off. When i bought the VSS the problem when away

Thanks alot dude, you saved me the hassle of changing my wiring harness:thumb:. It was my VSS as you said i changed that and the pigtail. After i changed it she fired right over:hellyeah:. Again thanks for all the help everyone.
 
CTS is the coolant temp sensor, the 2 wire sensor.
It's a resistance based sensor so you want to test to make sure it's spitting out the proper values for a given water temperature.

Water Temperature in F. Ohm reading from the sensor. If it's in between for temp, get an estimate of where it should be to gauge if it's good or not.
32*F = 5.9k ohms
68*F = 3.5k ohms
104*F = 2.7k ohms
176*F = 0.3k ohms
 
Is your profile up to date? You have a FP Green but no injectors listed.

What MAP and IAT are you using?

Review and upload this config file and make the changes that I have listed on the picture. That should solve your issues.

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Is your profile up to date? You have a FP Green but no injectors listed.

What MAP and IAT are you using?

Review and upload this config file and make the changes that I have listed on the picture. That should solve your issues.

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Yes it's up to date. Green but stock injectors. Regardless, it would idle.

I'm using the omnipower 4 bar map and GM IAT sensor in ecmtuning's SD bundle they offer.

Apparently the WB needs 12v power source? I've had to to an ECU power then grounded to chassis ground (which i know is correct). so i'm going to to grab power from a different source for that.

I'm clueless on how to get that info into those rows where you wrote. You can see I've assigned the pins but how do I get that table to display that stuff? I'm lost on that

Also, do I have everything else in the other tabs setup correctly? And as far as dialing the SD itself, I have no guidlines to do so such as using the stock MAF. That is completely cut out.
 
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