Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[mrfister11]

i cant find any good diagrams but i know most the sensors use the same 5v reference.. so check the wiring down there.. maybe the wiring is bad and you messing around that area pulled something apart... i dont think its a coincidence that you got both these codes at the same time for failures... also how did you get it started?

 

[geno414]

I just pumped the gas and held it and it started really ruff and it idled at about 1000 but i couldn't do anything with it no throttle no nothing it sounded REALLY BAD RALLY BAD like a Harley .

The ECU can't get the mixture right for a proper start without knowing what the temperature is. Adding ether/starting is nothing like adding actual fuel.

I told him how to do a proper fuel pump prime/test in earlier replies, maybe you can convince him to actually do it and report back.

the car ran i'm getting fuel it's not the pump its new my car only sat a week.

 

[mrfister11]

k im looking into the diagrams right now.. the tp, map, ect, and maf use the same ground... is your MAF plugged in?

also ALLdata diagrams dont match up.. BUT i think its something with wiring if you are getting those codes.. log iat.. manifold pressure, ect, tp,

 

[geno414]

Yes my maf is plugged in and so is my tps i bought a new tps yesterday i have new gas , new oil , new coolant. as of yesterday i took mt TB off because it needed a gasket so i also bought a thermostat because it gets hot hear and the water temp sender for ecu plugs came out so i put them back in i looked over all my plugs everything and nothing is unplugged so i really don't know.

k im looking into the diagrams right now.. the tp, map, ect, and maf use the same 5v ref... is your MAF plugged in?

also ALLdata diagrams dont match up.. BUT i think its something with wiring if you are getting those codes.. log airflow htz.. manifold pressure, ect, tp,

scared to run the car like that it cranks over like 10 min before it even starts and when it does it sounds like it is going to blow up !

 

[mrfister11]

im still thinking its a ground somewhere.. sounds just like one.. and thats whats common with those 2 sensors for sure.. also you... if i was there im sure we could knock this out pretty quick .. little too far of a drive

are you familiar with a multimeter at all? or even a test light?

i also fixed my post where i said they shared the same 5v ref ect doesnt use one..... i meant ground


if you wanted we could speak on phone and i could help you ALOT better and faster.. just saying.. im thinking this is a splice problem but alldata is so jacked up that it wont tell me where splice 51 is.. ###

did you mean the pins came out of the connector at the ECT sensor?

 

[geno414]

we can talk on the phone if you want it would be much faster and easier i wish you were closer .

 

[SpiderGST]

Did you make sure you have the box unchecked for coolant temp on link? I can swallow you threw it if I had your number. Let me know man. My car was doing the same thing until I unchecked a certain box in Link can't remember what the name of the box was.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Ok, so since I have determined it is my head gasket I will be taking my head off and changing it out.
Since it is going to be off should I go ahead and get arp headstuds? Also what head gasket should I get? Is there a nice kit that will include all the gaskets I will need to replace since I know the timeing components will be coming off, exhaust manifold etc. My horsepower goals for this car is 350-400 at most. So would it be worth it to go ahead and do cams? I don't want to really go over 400 because this is my dd. But I like the idea of adding the arp headstuds for security.

 

[mrfister11]

heck yeah do the studs.. cheap.. kinda weird it just puffs out smoke and dies like that.. almost like it might have hydrolocked it or something... but what caused it to suddenly just start leaking? cracked cylinder? cracked head? just saying get the head off ASAP

 

[PrimerPLus]

It's parked right now, I wont really be able to do much to it for a few weeks. But I would like to get all the gaskets I need for it here. I just want to get the best gasket set for it with my hp goals. If more is needed after I get it off then i'll deal with that.

 

[mrfister11]

gotcha.. i have no real world experience with head gaskets.. i never had one fail on me.. on ANY engine ive built.. most boost any engine ive done.. minus diesels.. is my own eclipse at 30 psi.. used a Cometic MLS

 

[mrfister11]

well sounds like its just too rich to run.. so find out why its rich then it will run did you log any basic stuff like tps, ect, map, ? just a askin

 

[PrimerPLus]

If anyone can recommend a kit that would include the gaskets I need that will supoprt 400HP that would be cool. Or just a name brand with what gaskets I need. I have not torn apart a head on a 4g63 so I am not sure all gaskets I need.
I know for sure I need head gasket and exhaust manifold, but which ones to get and what other gaskets would I need. also input on cams etc too thanks.

 

[renovatdkitchen]

If anyone can recommend a kit that would include the gaskets I need that will supoprt 400HP that would be cool. Or just a name brand with what gaskets I need. I have not torn apart a head on a 4g63 so I am not sure all gaskets I need.
I know for sure I need head gasket and exhaust manifold, but which ones to get and what other gaskets would I need. also input on cams etc too thanks.

From what I've read, an OEM headgasket and ARP studs work wonders for 400hp. Doing that for my build (OEM HG and ARP L19 head studs) and am shooting for a good 400awhp. You could get a gasket kit for just the head as well. Keep in mind, you will need a new timing belt and related components and might as well do the water pump. From what I recall, extreme psi had the best price on OEM headgaskets. Do believe they have a sale on at the moment too.

With the head off you could should inspect the valves and seals as well as replace your springs if you beat on it.

For cams, 262 - 272's should do you well for 400hp. Keep in mind that each company's cams are different and will have very different results.

 

[PrimerPLus]

I just did all the timing components, belts etc.. less than 500 miles ago. Do they need to be replaced?

 

[renovatdkitchen]

You'll be fine with your timing components. Just a new timing belt then. Although some believe that relieving pressure from the water pump ruins it, that call is yours. If you'd like, you can spin the idler and tensioner pulley's to make sure they don't squeak.

 

[WES_393]

+1 for oem composite and head studs. You cant go wrong with that combo.

Your timing components ail be fine so long as you kept them clean and dry. You don't even need to remove the water pump to change the head gasket so your good there as well.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Well I was looking at this kit EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts it has all gaskets made by felpro.

Will I need all those? Also, are cams needed to get 350-400 Hp? Or can I do it with my mods?

 

[renovatdkitchen]

Cams arent needed. Unless you spend a money like a fool, I mean, me.

Can't comment about felpro. Haven't had any experiece with them, but have seen people call them things such as fail pro. Seems to be a win/lose. Which is why for things such as a headgasket on a unsurfaced head/block I recommend the OEM one.

Try this if you're on the 7 bolt.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=19917&cat=863&page=1

 

[PrimerPLus]

Sounds good for the oem head gasket, but will I need to get any other gaskets? exhaust manifold, valve cover, intake, etc. or is there a write up I can read that explains all that will be needed? I just want to make sure it goes smooth and I have everything . Oh and also, do I need the L19 head studs or just the regular arp head studs. Thanks again

 

[WES_393]

No, cam's are not needed to make 400hp. DSM heads flow well from the factory. Felpro composite is equal to the Mitsubishi in terms of quality. Get regular ARPs. L19s are a bit overkill for your goals. The gaskets I would suggest replacing are the intake mani, exhaust mani, throttle body, injector o rings, and valve cover. I would source the parts individually rather than buying a kit.

 

[renovatdkitchen]

^ This is pro tip.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Ok, I have brand new 680cc injectors that have new seals and o-rings in case that will be going on after putting head back on, I have a couple goodies that will go on during this tear down. I just put on a brand new throttle body and throttle body elbow gaskets like 3 or 4 days ago, will they need to be replaced?

 

[renovatdkitchen]

You could replace them in case they set a certain way and leak after you tighten the bolts in a slightly different way. Or re use them and run a boost leak test.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Sounds good, I appreciate the help. Just so I know I got things going correctly this is what I will be getting:

OEM Head gasket, OEM intake gasket, OEM exhaust manifold gasket, OEM Valve cover gasket and ARP Headstuds

and of course if I run into other things along the way.