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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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So I was driving to school about 70 on the highway and all of a sudden I loose power and a huge amount of white smoke is coming out exhaust. It's the radiator fluid. I pull over and I am looking for any leaks, I don't see any. I let the car sit for a bit and try to start it, no luck just turns over and over. So I'm getting it towed home. Is this a blown head gasket?
 
I'm sorry to say but yes it does sound like a blown HG. More than likely its water in cylinders keeping it from firing or starting. Did this just happen out of no where or have you been having or had cooling issues in the past? Kinda odd to have a HG just blow while cruising...
 
Will do thanks for the tips

Ok plugs are off there is definitely coolant in there I can see its reflection. Oil looks good. not milky at all, drained some from the oil pan too looks good.

Over drain pan for coolant is filled almost to the top.

Update only fluid in #1 cylinder.

So I will be pulling the head to redo the gasket. Any suggestions on gasket I should use? Also since I will be taking off exhaust manifold etc is there a nice kit I can do that will include the gaskets I need?
 
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1997 gsx. Full engine bay when I bought it. Did a complete fuse box and battery relocate and full wire tuck, both fuse box and engine harness. Car has been sitting since the end of october with about a half tank or quarter Tank of gas.

everything pulled from the engine bay over the winter. motor disassembled and headgasket replaced along with belts. As you can see, it could be anything that could go wrong here.

Car won't start. Let me clear up some questions you will already answer:
Timing is dead on. Rotated the crank enough times to line up the marks 4-5 times.
Plug wires are correct for use with '95 eprom (as I'm using with dsmlink)
Injector wires are in correct order
Fuel pump works and i get fuel pressure. I know because I turned on the pump with link and set base pressure to 40 with my fuel lab afpr.
ECU is perfect checked it over a couple times. absolutely no signs of anything burnt

Now, I tucked and cut and lengthened wires for the fuse box for the relocate. Everything worked no problems first try :thumb:

I did the same thing with the engine harness but no luck this time.
The connectors that are still on the harness right now and plugged in are:
injectors
alternator plug
coil pack
power transistor
injector resistor box
starter plug
tps
coolant gauge plug
coolant temp plug
crank angle sensor
cam angle sensor
Knock sensor

no o2 sensors cause I'm using narrowband sim with my wideband
No IAC or FIAV. I've deleted these

If I let the car sit overnight it will turn over and run for a few seconds at about 1000-1500rom then die.

When I did the wire tuck I cut the engine speed detection plug. for those that don't know, the blue/red wire that's in that plug goes to the coil pack plug. I was told in a previous thread that this was ok and just to leave that wire tucked with the other two for the coil pack plug. They were wrong because I've found that this wire needs to go somewhere. The other wire coming out of that engine speed plug is black with white stripe. I BELIEVE it goes to one of the black/white wires on the power transistor but i haven't been able to confirm or not. IF the engine speed plug has these two wires connected inside (which it appears that may be the case) then I need to know which of the two black/white wires on the power transistor to connect this wire to.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151542343-post53.html

Another thing to consider is my tps that I tested. 1.3 ohms when closed and 4.68 when wide open. I understand that this is a little low? maybe I installed the tps on incorrectly. I did take apart and clean and put new seals in the TB. gold spring wound twice. pretty sure I put it back together correctly but maybe can somebody can say a step by step to how it should be

Lets start chiming in!

There is no flooding in the engine, I pulled each plug and checked. BUT the injectors are BLACK. And when I started it up today and it ran for about 10 seconds, My wide band went straight rich all the way. The car will stay on with my foot to the floor but it definately isn't running properly.

Again I bring up the coil pack wire that goes to the engine speed detection plug. any info on that would help.
 
Hi, To start it off i have a 1995 eagle talon tsi awd With a 6 bolt swap. it started and ran but then i took off my TB and re did the FIAV gasket and new BISS screw O ring on it, knock sensor & my thermostat and now it won't start at all i get it to crank over and get a little rpm and it just stops it sounds like it want's to fire over but it can't. I hooked up my dsm link and it said my TPS volts was only at 0.04 so i bought a new TPS but still no luck can any one help please ? :aha:

Also i don't know if it matters but i took out my stock gauge cluster and put in the 10th anniversary eclipse one. does that matter ?

This site is all i have for help...:thumb:
 
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If you have Link, post up a log with as many captured values as possible.


Did you mess with the coolant temp sensor?
 
If it's the coolant temp sensor (not the sensor for the gauge) then that will cause a no start if it's not connected or if it's bad.
 
I REALLY wish i could post a log i have no idea how to use link i bought it from STM and have no access to ecmtuning.com at all.

They should have set you up with a username and password. Just contact ECMTuning with your information to set up your account.

You post up a log just like you would with attaching a picture or file. You can find most of the info needed on the wiki for ECMLink

http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/
 
If it's the coolant temp sensor (not the sensor for the gauge) then that will cause a no start if it's not connected or if it's bad.

If it is that really small wire that just plugs on the housing of the temp then yes i have that on but im only getting 0.04 volts to my tps and i adjusted it and it won't change it is like that with the wire on the tps and off.

Forgive my newbishness when it comes to link... but can you log if the car won't even start?

Yes.
 
My 96 had the same problem when i bought it except the oil light. and my rev limiter was wacked up but i ran the codes and had to replace my MAP sensor and it fixed both my problems
 
check your MAF is plugged in. seems a little silly but i've overlooked that multiple times and it still trips me up once and blue moon LOL.
 
Check your fuel pressure regulator. Sounds like its having problems keeping a decent pressure. They typically don't go bad, but I've seen two cars (one a 300zx, and one a chrysler turbo lebaron) act the same way (both would die out and stall unless you gave it gas). Low and behold the darn regulator was bad.
 
May sound dumb, but you said you took your TB off. Did you tighten everything down right? Does the car start at all if you hold or pump the throttle while its cranking? If it does and wont stay running then there's something wrong with your intercooler couplers( Maybe Loose) letting air in, basically like a boost leak. Also triple check all your connectors to make sure there all plugged in.
 
I do have all my bolts tight and I have no boost leaks at all for once LOL and I will recheck all my connectors but no my car will jot start it used two start and run till I took off my TB and fixed the leaks and my link says I only have 0.04 volts going to the tps it sounds like it wants to start but it just won't ! And I don't know why at all
 
If it's the coolant temp sensor (not the sensor for the gauge) then that will cause a no start if it's not connected or if it's bad.

No bashing or disrespect But I have yet to see a bad temp sensor cause a car to not start. Not that it can't\hasn't ever happened. Mine with it disconnected starts fine just uses lots of gas or rough idles and some die outs if no throttle given. As it reads -40 when done so. Somehow my friends came unplugged on her civic and she drove her car around for a few days with it like that before she brought it to me to change the sensor just to find it unplugged.

OP What have you tried? Are you sure all gaskets went on good and everything is tightened down correctly so no leaks? Disconnect your IAC and try starting a few times. Does any amount of throttle change how it tries to start? Is your fuel pump working good? Sometimes they pick a hella time to quit on ya. Is it just turning over and not trying to start or does it seem like its firing up alil bit too? Try a lil squirt of ether and see what happens.

I do have all my bolts tight and I have no boost leaks at all for once LOL and I will recheck all my connectors but no my car will jot start it used two start and run till I took off my TB and fixed the leaks and my link says I only have 0.04 volts going to the tps it sounds like it wants to start but it just won't ! And I don't know why at all

Where does your tps say .04 volts? on a volt meter or your link? And are your sure its volts and not percentage?
 
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