Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[ktgurl87]

Lol ok. Maybe its nap time eh?

 

[Bud92gsx]

I'm all jacked up on mt dew, I'm come at you like a spider monkey.

No, been drinking Monster.No nap for me right now.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

That usually points to a bad ground or bad battery. I wouldn't rule out either. I have heard countless times about how wal-mart batteries are crap. Also moving the ground cable when installing the new battery could have caused a bad ground. So you weren't completely wrong, Bud.

 

[Oneslowgs-t]

That usually points to a bad ground or bad battery. I wouldn't rule out either. I have heard countless times about how wal-mart batteries are crap. Also moving the ground cable when installing the new battery could have caused a bad ground. So you weren't completely wrong, Bud.

The battery is fine, do you know where the grounds are located?
Also what relay would cause the car to not start?

 

[ed1380]

under the dash near the left knee is a beige block with 3-4 relays in it. IIRC bottom right is the starter relay. That's probably what is making the clicking noise. That's normal.

To test the starter look at the wiring above your tranny and find the starter plug. Unplug it and give it 12v to the wire that leads behind the motor. That should engage your starter. If your keys are in the ON position, then it should start the car. If that works consistently, then we know the starter and coil are good, and can start tracing the wires back under the dash.

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[jb2zero0six5]

Just get a battery terminal cleaner, and brush them good.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

The battery is fine, do you know where the grounds are located?
Also what relay would cause the car to not start?

Mine goes right from my battery and bolts to the firewall.

 

[bryanwheat]

Mine goes right from my battery and bolts to the firewall.

There is one that goes from the battery cable to the bellhousing where the starter bolts on, and one that goes to the firewall.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

There is one that goes from the battery cable to the bellhousing where the starter bolts on, and one that goes to the firewall.

That is correct. I couldnt remember exactly where the second one ran to, and did not want to post incorrect information.

 

[Incoltnito]

MPI relay....check that, if you hear clicking in the dash, which is the general location of that relay. Seriously, nobody mentioned this so far?

 

[bryanwheat]

MPI relay....check that, if you hear clicking in the dash, which is the general location of that relay. Seriously, nobody mentioned this so far?

The mpi relay sends power to the ecu. It does not activate the starter relay.

 

[preludeachris]

for some reason or another ...your car isnt charging your battery....start with cheap stuff first fuses.. grounds...ect....then if I were you rip out the alternator and get it tested

 

[Groffster]

So switched out ecu's the 95 happened to be a eprom so im happy about that, but installed and still same problem. Seems that at low rpms it seems to die out if no throttle is applied. Checking the timing as soon as i can but not sure what else to even look for.

 

[Aproductions]

CAS

I looked through it and shook it and then tried to start the car...nothing.

Then my dad did the same thing WHILE I was starting the car and BAM fired right up.

Now it starts all the time so I guess I am gonna just redo the whole CAS wiring.

On the + I know I got rid of the security system (aftermarket) correctly.

The - is that the motor seems to be knocking just a little bit when I rev it. Gets louder as RPMS go up. I think it is the rod bearing and in addition the car burns ALOT of oil.

Over the next weekend I will prob pull the motor and check everything out.

Now, if the bearing didn't spin bad or something can I get away with just doing new bearings (standard)? Or do I have to get the crank and rods all checked out and get oversized?

I am really on a budget.

 

[1stcar95]

Apparently, i got a sick deal when for $1900 i picked up a 95 gst with a crc racing built 4g63t mated with a t3t4, stage 3 f1 clutch, and complete tokico suspension package well it doesn't run do to "bypass" issues because of the turbo, he didn't touch any of the fuel system, using a gm maf. I need to know if i should upgrade the rail what size injectors i should use for a very respectable daily driver, as for the pump, i keep hearing walbro 255, good idea? Somebody recommend a regulator. What about the lines themselves?

 

[josh1095]

biggest injectors you want if you run link. aeromotive afpr. walbro 255. the kit will come with 6an ss lines. IF your NOT running link, i think the max with an safc is like 650cc injectors. i dont know though.
wait , is it even running right now? i would get it running first then worry about upgrades.

 

[liquidsilver]

You mean you've never heard the car run?? It's generally not a good idea to spend that much on a modded car that isn't running. I would put the stock turbo back on it and make sure it runs right. After that, I would build your fuel system, put back on the t3/t4 (and maf) and tune.

Walbro is fine. Stock rail is fine. Also search here for the fuel pump rewire article.

 

[1stcar95]

Well i figured with the big turbo i'd need to upgrade that stuff, especially since when cranking it seems to lope pretty hard and is not quite able to actually start, will this setup run on stock fuel components? Also, forgive my ignorance, but i'm fairly new to all of this, and by all, i mean new to even having a car in the first place, dsms, turbo cars. I'm 25 with slightly above novice machanical skills, but i'm fairly lost when it comes to newer vehicles with all the electronics. I understand the mechanics well enougu, but you'll have to be a little more juvenile with the terminology, i have no idea what afpr, safc, or 6an mean. Sorry i'm such a noob, but lioe i said, i was lucky enough to get my hands on what is essentially a brand new car and i don't want to blow it up.

Also, what does link mean?

Oh, and that's an rs in my pic, i'll be posting the gst later. If specific pics are needed, please ask.

 

[BLINKY619]

i would first look into why the car isnt starting?

do you have spark?
fuel?
is your timing dead on?

 

[ed1380]

Keep the stock rail. It'll flow enough for 600hp.

I would get it running first. make sure the timing is set right. Make sure it has spark on all 4 cylinders. You can borrow some stock injectors or buy them for $50 and then sell them to a honda kid(probably make profit) and make it run on the stock ecu.

When you're ready to upgrade I recommend a walbro 190 and 650's. That'll get you into the 400's.

 

[1stcar95]

Ok, i guess i'm not worried about upgrades til i wanna get up over 400hp. So if i'm ok with stock injectors, pump, and rail, then know this, the timing is perfect, the plugs come out wet, but i guess maybe i'm not getting a spark. He did say he smelled gas, like it was flooding maybe. Suggestions? How can i test the plugs outside of the block, or should i be looling elsewhere? Do 4g63's have a fuel pressure regulator or will i need to go aftermarket? Keep my setup in mind and i'll post pics later. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[kenuwine4g63]

Ok, i guess i'm not worried about upgrades til i wanna get up over 400hp. So if i'm ok with stock injectors, pump, and rail, then know this, the timing is perfect, the plugs come out wet, but i guess maybe i'm not getting a spark. He did say he smelled gas, like it was flooding maybe. Suggestions? How can i test the plugs outside of the block, or should i be looling elsewhere? Do 4g63's have a fuel pressure regulator or will i need to go aftermarket? Keep my setup in mind and i'll post pics later. Thanks for the help guys.

Save yourself some time and do a compression test. 1st!!!! no if ands or buts!!!
then see if your getting spark and fuel. Make sure your mechanical timing is dead on. Afta all this checks out the car should start without a doubt. Its probably gonna run rough but, the main thing is getting it started first.

 

[josh1095]

pull all the plugs and hook up a plug to a wire, have someone crank it and hold it by the RUBBER part , while you ground it to the valve cover. if you see spark thats good, if not, check all plugs and wires and make sure all of the arent getting any spark. IF your getting fuel and no spark i think it could be the cam angle sensor. no fuel AND no spark is crank position sensor. there can be other causes too. go buy the haynes/chilton and download the factory manual. this will help a TON dude.
oh, and read everything in the frequently answered questions section. that will help you soooo much. btw afpr= adjustable fuel pressure regulator, 6an= size of a hose, link= dsmlink or ecmlink. find more on the latter at ecmlink.com. you will inevitably be using link.

 

[Spyderman7]

First figure out why its not running.Is the GM maff installed on the car if so does it have the gm translator?Compression/spark/timing ?

 

[ZombieSix]

so i was taking ghetto gauge overlays off my car and now it wont start at all. i still have power and everything but just no ignition. Viper Alarm model 5002 is not letting me start my car. At all. Somehow it engaged and it wont let my starter turn on. previous owner had it installed, i cant get ahold of him, it was mounted up under the steering wheel so i pulled the brain down and everything looks like its wired up...nothing broken. Found the manual to disengage it but turns out i dont have the MAIN remote control thing i just have the little back up one without the little screen on it, also the little kill switch thing is supposed to be programmed with a certain number of button presses but i dont know how many, so i tried about 100 combinations but still no start.. at this point im going to have to take it to a shop because i have no idea of whats wrong with it but id rather not and keep a few hundred bucks in my pocket., my question to you guys is


if theres anyway to start my car and bypass this alarm.