Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[geno414]

No bashing or disrespect But I have yet to see a bad temp sensor cause a car to not start. Not that it can't\hasn't ever happened. Mine with it disconnected starts fine just uses lots of gas or rough idles and some die outs if no throttle given. As it reads -40 when done so. Somehow my friends came unplugged on her civic and she drove her car around for a few days with it like that before she brought it to me to change the sensor just to find it unplugged.

OP What have you tried? Are you sure all gaskets went on good and everything is tightened down correctly so no leaks? Disconnect your IAC and try starting a few times. Does any amount of throttle change how it tries to start? Is your fuel pump working good? Sometimes they pick a hella time to quit on ya. Is it just turning over and not trying to start or does it seem like its firing up alil bit too? Try a lil squirt of ether and see what happens.



Where does your tps say .04 volts? on a volt meter or your link? And are your sure its volts and not percentage?

I'm positive it is tpsvolts that is what it says on my dsmlink v3 lite . And I have everything tight and every gasket on right there was only two gaskets . And I put in a new knock sensor and thermostat but I don't know how any of that would cause a no start the car sounds like it wants to start I can actually see some RPM on the gauge cluster when I try to start it I thought it was my tps so I bought a new one. I also thought it was spark plugs so I put new ones on now my car ran and drove two weeks ago but now it doesn't want two all I did was take off my TB and put the new gaskets on so my boost leaks would be fixed. And a new engine mount but that doesn't have anything to do with a no start.

 

[jb2zero0six5]

What is Link saying for engine temperature?

 

[DSM Chase]

Make shure everything is plugged in something could have come unplugged... Also if the tps is not plugged up it will cause the car to spin over but not fire sometimes... So make shure the tps is properly plugged in and the wire is not damaged.... Check for obvious wire harness issues or anything not plugged in... Make shure your getting spark also!

 

[geno414]

What is Link saying for engine temperature?

What ???? Dude the car won't start

 

[jb2zero0six5]

It WILL still give you a temperature reading...

In the case of my 95 with a 6-bolt swap, the CTS was not hooked up and became hard to start/stumble the colder it got outside. We did a log and the ECU reported -77* for the engine temperature, wired and hook it up and it would start flawlessly.

 

[geno414]

Make shure everything is plugged in something could have come unplugged... Also if the tps is not plugged up it will cause the car to spin over but not fire sometimes... So make shure the tps is properly plugged in and the wire is not damaged.... Check for obvious wire harness issues or anything not plugged in... Make shure your getting spark also!

I am getting spark because the car will want to start you can hear it it will also make a little rpm and hear the engine a little but it won't actually start.

It WILL still give you a temperature reading...

In the case of my 95 with a 6-bolt swap, the CTS was not hooked up and became hard to start/stumble the colder it got outside. We did a log and the ECU reported -77* for the engine temperature, wired and hook it up and it would start flawlessly.

Well there are two wires on my temp sensor that came off and there both black so I don't know what way they would go on and I don't know how that would cause my car not to start but I guess when I get home I will take the wires out and flip flop them. But I really don't think that is the problem.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I am getting spark because the car will want to start you can hear it it will also make a little rpm and hear the engine a little but it won't actually start.



Well there are two wires on my temp sensor that came off and there both black so I don't know what way they would go on and I don't know how that would cause my car not to start but I guess when I get home I will take the wires out and flip flop them. But I really don't think that is the problem.

You will get some rpm because the engine is turning over. Your crank sensor is sensing this and sending signal to the gauge. This desn't mean you are getting spark. Test spark with a spark tester or insert one of the old plugs into a wire and hold it against the IM while some1 turns it over.

Again does any amount of throttle change the way it acts at all? Verify fuel pump is coming on and pressure is good. I don't believe the tps will cause it to not start at all. Use some starting fluid and see if it fires up as this will verify whether or not its getting fuel.

 

[jb2zero0six5]

It's a simple resistor type, polarity doesn't matter, and should be fine.

You will get some rpm because the engine is turning over. Your crank sensor is sensing this and sending signal to the gauge. This desn't mean you are getting spark. Test spark with a spark tester or insert one of the old plugs into a wire and hold it against the IM while some1 turns it over.

Again does any amount of throttle change the way it acts at all? Verify fuel pump is coming on and pressure is good. I don't believe the tps will cause it to not start at all. Use some starting fluid and see if it fires up as this will verify whether or not its getting fuel.

To test the fuel pump prime, run a jumper wire to the black single wire connector located near the battery to the positive terminal post. Looks like this and is the black one.

http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo271/dsm4life-awd/2010 Setup/IMG_0281.jpg

 

[geno414]

It's a simple resistor type, polarity doesn't matter, and should be fine.




To test the fuel pump prime, run a jumper wire to the black single wire connector located near the battery to the positive terminal post.

The sensor I'm talking about is the one that gives you the temp on the gauge like I am very confused on why my car won't start it worked fine two weeks ago .

 

[SpiderGST]

You can

You can actually lock your ECT Sensor Temp on Link. This is mostly for tuning purposes so if your coolant temp is locked at let's say 256 it is going to be a peta to start. I did this once and it would take forever to start and getting running. Once i unlocked the temp it start right on up. The gasket in between the TB and manifold only goes on one way were it will block all ports from venting to atmosphere. Just another thought. Check the easy stuff before starting to replace stuff. Spark,Fuel and Air. Our fuel pumps tend to take a shit on us on random occasions .

 

[jb2zero0six5]

The one that goes the gauge cluster is only a single wire, the one that goes the ECU is two wires.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m17/19Eclipse90/KnowYourThemHousing2GT-1.jpg

 

[geno414]

The one that goes the gauge cluster is only a single wire, the one that goes the ECU is two wires.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m17/19Eclipse90/KnowYourThemHousing2GT-1.jpg

Ya I didn't know what way to put the TB gasket to intake on so I just put it on can some one give me a picture of it ? And yes the two wire sensor One fell off ans I put the wires back on but I didn't know what way they went on because they were just both black. And ya I bought a new fuel pump so it's not that ha .

Ok ! when i spray starting fluid into my intake the car will start and jump up to about 4000 rpm but it will not stay running and i looked at all my plugs and they are all good so why is this like this ?

It WILL still give you a temperature reading...

In the case of my 95 with a 6-bolt swap, the CTS was not hooked up and became hard to start/stumble the colder it got outside. We did a log and the ECU reported -77* for the engine temperature, wired and hook it up and it would start flawlessly.

NEW POST!!!! HELP my car says the coolant temp is -74* how do i fix this you said you wire something in can you go in to details and tell me how maybe pictures !!

 

[TwiztedEclipse]

Ok, Sorry its been awhile since i re posted on this tread. I sent my car to a forgien car shop well they were stumped cause they did nothing and the car started to work again. So i went and picked it up i drove it for about 1,000 miles over a months time then she died on me again doing the same thing. Although i might try the VSS cause every time i hit a bump there for awhile when i first got it back my speedometer would work then cut out then work again later that day. my tachometer never stopped working. well i was driving down the road next thing i know my car shuts down and wouldnt start again. so i checked and again no spark. I ran a diagnosis scanner on it and i have no signal from my cam or crank sensor but the are both brand new 1,000 miles ago. so ill try the VSS if that dont work i changing the harness. cause i had a few melt spots on my harness i fixed from it melting to my egr valve tube running to the intake. any other ideas would be great again.

 

[19Eclipse90]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/428485-what-these-3-connectors-doing-wire-tuck.html#post152892774

That black w/ white wire goes to pin 8 of the power transistor. The blue w/ red goes to pin 2 on the coil.

 

['97 Cayenne]

Thank you for clearing that up. My suspicion on that being the correct wire was right, I've had that hooked up correctly then.

Update on the car. Even though I tested my tps yesterday and got low readings, I tested it again today and the reading was 4.6ohm and didn't change when I turned it. Getting another used one in a few here.

Also found out that the 6psi spring in my tial bov isn't enough to keep the piston down. I'll be shimming that spring after I get the other tps in. I can see if the car will run after replacing with a working tps by plugging the vac line for the bov. It should at least idle at that point.

Can somebody chime in on a step by step on everything I should be doing to set up speed density? I followed ecmtuning guidelines to the t but I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing something.
IAT power grabbed factory IAT input pin 72
IAT ground to ecu sensor ground
Map power I spliced into tps power pin 84
Map signal into mdp input pin 73
Map ground to ecu ground.
First of all, is all that correct?

 

[jb2zero0six5]

This is to answer your PM.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Now given you're 6-bolt swapped in a 2g, your water neck should look like this now. I had to cut that black connector off and put on female spade connectors. Those two wires went to the open spades (in T shape) seen here, next to the single wire that feeds the gauge in the cluster.

The upper plug on 1g's is for A/C's, and I didn't use it.

Also, if this is already correctly hooked up, then the sensor went bad. I would just then get one for a 2g and put it in it's place.

 

[geno414]

well i have a 2g head and a 6 bolt bottom end and i don't even have that plug some one stole it from me all i have is wires going into the sensor and they both are black so i don't know what hooks into what.

 

[jb2zero0six5]

That plug you see me holding would then go into it's proper place.

 

[mrfister11]

i was gonna post from the first couple replys but that one saying you spray into it and it runs up to 4000 backs up what im thinking.... how long did the car sit? sounds like a fuel pump quit or not coming on.. also easy if you have an AFPR with a gauge on it. just a thought.. fuel pumps quit ALL the time from sitting

and im thinking that the ECT reading -74 is just a different problem you are having..

 

[jb2zero0six5]

It's not the fuel pump, take a look at what Link reported his coolant temperature to be.

 

[mrfister11]

then why would adding MORE fuel to burn make it fire up? just saying

 

[jb2zero0six5]

The ECU can't get the mixture right for a proper start without knowing what the temperature is. Adding ether/starting is nothing like adding actual fuel.

I told him how to do a proper fuel pump prime/test in earlier replies, maybe you can convince him to actually do it and report back.

 

[mrfister11]

well i think since he sprayed starting fluid in it and it fired right up, that it would have been a dead give away that it isnt getting fuel.. in almost all cars, if a ECT sensor is unplugged it will read as low as possible(open).. also the lower the temp the MORE fuel is needed to run.. there shouldnt be NO reason a car wont start with this unplugged.. it will run rough sometimes and rich.. sounds like it could even be a ground somewhere causing all sorts of weird issues..

i dont think me saying anything will help convince him to test his fuel pump.. live and learn i guess

 

[jb2zero0six5]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/431888-different-thermostat-housings.html#post152931403

They are talking about this in another thread. Here is your connections, 1g and 2g.

Mrfister11, using ether is how I started my '95 for a week before I got my CTS hooked up properly. After that, it would fire up instantly.

 

[geno414]

got the car started and it runs bad really ruff and loud and back fireing bad ! i got a engine code first one is.

0115 Engine coolant temperature circuit malfunction

0120 throttle position circuit malfunction

that's the new engine code list i have i really don't know what to do from hear at all if i had a person to actully come down by me to help that would be a life saver because i have no one to help me at all..