Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[miliman13]

heyyy bud, i got the same car, same swap and SAME PROBLEM!! now stock oredr of fore, is 1423 you swap it too 2314. :so they say: and coil pack order is A B C D. and should be swamped too C D A B. no "supposedly" if you hit invert cas, this will do that for you, i dont really know, and Supposedly is your running link you DO NOT need to swap the injector pins in your ecu, EX: pin1=14 14 = pin 15 15= pin 2 2= pin1 .. THIS is sup-post to be the reason why we cant get our cars running, :also: check for leaks in you inter-cooler piping throttle body and that your plug to the MAF is clean and in there tightly .. this is sup-post to fix our problem, idk. ive been sup-post to have had my car a YEAR ago but im still scratching my head, let me know if you figure it out, you could save me a aneurism ..

 

[Morris]

DSMlink has a setting for 1g cas in 2gs. Is this a fresh build? Fresh builds like to idle low at first and you might have to keep it alive until it warms up for the first few starts, thats not always the case but happens. And unless you are running a gm maf you need all your intercooling piping connected. Check to make sure the MAF is plugged in, or even installed since you apparently didn't have the car put together all the way in the first place.

You should really wait until you have it all put together before you even think about starting it up, I know you get excited and just want to hear it start up, but you have to have patience, you can hurt stuff by acting to fast a rash.

 

[JuGs]

I have the car togwther now. im having tje same issue necore i even swaped motors. when i bought the car it would idle. the one sensors that are them same from the swap is the maf.....tps n o2 sensors ohh and map.

I have everything pluged in. exhaust isnt hooked up bit that wont cause it not to idle. as long as i keep my foot on the throttle it will stay running. i still have to replace fuel filter but i dont think that is my issue.

 

[fastgsx99]

So are you planning on a rebuilt? If it was me I would do oversize valves. I mean your spending the money anyway. mine as well get something different and better.

I haven't heard anything bad regarding that brand. I know ebay has some jusnk head gasket and belts though.

 

[BogusSVO]

A felpro head gasket (composite) will be fine for your needs, and ARP head studs should get the nod too.

Some reading for you....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/413772-how-clean-head-gasket-surface.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...how-measure-4g63-cylinder-head-thickness.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

Dose every valve in the head have 6T cast into the valve head?

Check with a supporting vendor for your timing belt needs

 

[xiteamxi]

well i already ordered arp head studs bought a new water pump and ac/ps belts and plan on getting the felpro 9627pt head gasket as for the valves 3 of the intake ones have 6t other 5 have 6a believe all the exhaust have 6t (hard to see) and as for stock valves is it possible to get away with using stock valves and just lapping them ?as it doesn't seem to be a major hit

 

[ericemery]

First off, I have verified that the compression is good... 160, 160, 158, 158
I have spark at all 4 plugs
All 4 plugs are good
Firing order is 4-1-2-3 (thats right isn't it?)
I hear the fuel pump (wally 255) turn on and "whirr" while cranking.
I smell gasoline after attempting to start.

The car is a 91 TSI AWD. it has a Wally 255, FMIC and a MAF trans. I just picked this car up as a project car, really cheap. The P/O claimed it needed a head gasket, timing belt, water pump and turbo oil return. I have taken care of all of that, and am trying to fire it up for the first time.

The car cranks over fine. It will cough once or twice while cranking, but will never take off.

I just did a head gasket and timing belt. I am 99% sure the timing is correct, and will verify later today when I get home. My main question is, what sensors are being called by the ECU during crank, and is there a method to trouble shoot those sensors, other than buying new sensors and replacing.

I am pretty sure the Engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor is bad. I tested resistance, and it doesn't register on my DMM. does this sensor have any say on start-no start?


Thanks in advance for any help.



EDIT. this issue is resolved, please check post #24 for summary of what the issue(s) were.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

That sensor will make it hard to start yes. I also have a maft. try disconnecting it and see if it start that way. Also make sure the wiring on the maft is correct and that the green light is on when it does catch on.

 

[ericemery]

Thanks for the quick response. I will double check the MAF-t wiring when I get home. I didn't think of that.

If I just unplug the maf trans, will the car start? (not run I understand, but at least fire up.)

I guess I need to see if advanced or autozone have that temp sensor. (ugh I hate going to those guys. )

 

[Tyeler18]

Ect. Sure sign of a no start. It floods the cylinders out when its bad and causes a no start.

 

[92gstsi]

Yes the coolant temperature sensor will cause the car to have a hard time starting when the enigine is hot or cold....i had this problem 4 years ago and it was very annoying...because in the morning it had trouble starting, then when i got it to start and fully heat up and go drive it then shut it off...it would do the same thing just crank but wont turn over....replaced the sensor and never had that problem since...

 

[Abe'sGST]

i would incline more to the 1) CKP sensor or thee 2) CMP sensor. also make sure that your fuel pump is good, hearing the pump doesn't always mean its pumping enough to start, check your fuel pressure

 

[ericemery]

thanks guys. I will run home at lunch and pull the line off the FPR and stick it in a 2 liter bottle.

Anyone know the part number for that sensor off hand? if not, I will do a bit of searching again.

 

[93laser1g]

Okay my car wont start again i just replaced the ecu and isc and took out the aftermaket mechanical oil gauge. after i did that the car started up fine, drove fine, idled fine for about 2 days. On the 3rd day the car started drove fine for about 3 miles then i noticed the CEL was on so i keep driving and it shut off i got to my destination turned the car off for about an hour and when i go to start it back up it started but it only ran for about 10 seconds then the CEL came on again and the car shut off. i did this about 5 more times then it started up hard smoothed out and ran fine again but the CEL stayed on. i drove back home which is about 8 miles away and it ran fine all the way home. So i shut the car off for about another hour and try to start it again and now the damn thing won't start at all so i took the starter in just to be safe and it tested good.and now it cranks and tries to start but it can't. I took a video of me trying to start it so everyone could see and hear how it sounds. my car is a 93 laser rs-t awd auto.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

OKay. A car needs 3 things to work. Air Fuel and Spark. Verify you have all three first. Secondly, check the code that your car puts out. Its not that hard look it up and do it. post up code and we can tell you whwat to do from there.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Do a part out search. lucky for you you are in michigan. many dsm guys there. but what you need and report back soldier!

 

[93laser1g]

OKay. A car needs 3 things to work. Air Fuel and Spark. Verify you have all three first. Secondly, check the code that your car puts out. Its not that hard look it up and do it. post up code and we can tell you whwat to do from there.

okay i cant post the video for some reason but what code are you talking about? are you saying hook it up to a diagnostics machine? because I thought you can only hook up obd2 to a diagnostics machine. http://youtu.be/IMQ9nzjfxNo heres the link to the video

 

[ericemery]

OBD1 still spits out diagnostic codes.
Follow this tech article and you will be able to figure out what your CEL is from.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/319844-1g-code-reader-cel-code-reader.html

 

[1gAWT]

Most likely the check valve on the Wally, they're terrible at holding pressure. Do yOu have an fpr with a gauge if so is it holding pressure?
I also agree with the Coolant temp sensor.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

you can pull codes off any obd1 as well. folllow the above mentioned link. then report back .

 

[ericemery]

I went home at lunch to check the fuel pressure. Its holding pressure. When I pulled the return line off, it had pressure still. the pump is working, when you crank the car, it fills a 2liter up pretty fast.

I havent been able to locate a new ECT sensor, so I have emailed a few people that are parting out cars. I would rather find the part locally, as I want to get the car moving. I have a few minor things to do to my DD before the snow flies, and this car is taking up the work space.

As for an aftermarket FPR. no, the car came the way it sits right now. I plan on switching the wally out for an aeromotive pump and FPR, but that wont be till spring. I just want to get it running to make sure all the systems function as intended.

 

[LiquidX]

GARYMITSU and Stangmurdera are supporting vendors on here that should have what you need as well.

Get that sensor replaced and see what happens then.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Arent you near kalamazoo MI? There is a big vendor there I know of

 

[ericemery]

Im pretty far north of K-zoo. Are you thinking of porters?

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Unsure of the name but they are suppoeting vendor and have a fast car to boot.