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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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New coolant temp sensor Is $20 and that's at advance or even o'reillys. They aren't anything special bro. If it's holding pressure, and will start after it's been running awhile, that's what it is.
 
If they don't have it, o'reillys does for sure because I remember I plugged my wideband bung with the old one! Lmao
 
Ok found the issue. my maf is bad. unplugged it car ran and idles fine. pluged it back in while its idling and it died
 
Advanced had to order the sensor. it will be here in a couple days. We dont have an O'riellys around here, or I would have tried there.


Autozone and Advanced are pretty much the only options I have. other than a Napa thats like 45 miles away. LOL
 
Try swapping in a fresh set of plugs as well, if you do everything and its still a no start. The raw fuel will kill a set of spark plugs in no time flat if you've been trying to start it repeatedly and the plugs a soaked from flooding. The hydrcarbons destroy the plugs conductive ability internally and you'll essentially have an open circuit between the plug wires and the electrode tip of the plug.

It's best to try with a known good set of old plugs if you have any laying around or you can just pull the plugs clean them then ohm them out and see if they are remotely close in value and are passing any electrical energy.

William-
 
ya the coolant temp sensor is a real pain sometimes. something so simple can cause it. when mine went bad it made it really hard to start but it would still start while most people just wont get it to start when thats bad. im pretty sure that will solve your problem. good luck.
 
Let us know if that's what it was because I had a 92 esi forever that the whole time I owned it it had the same issue. I replaced fuel pump filter an strainer battery coil packs cas an plugs an wires an nothing changed finally just got rid of it because I have my tsi
 
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will do.

Tonight I went out and checked the MAF-trans wiring. It looks like its fine to me. I have never installed one before, so I am crossing my fingers that this one is connected to the appropriate wires.

I also pulled the ECU and checked both sides. I dont see any leaking caps or burnt spots...

Hopefully this 20 dollar sensor fixes the no start issue.

I also seem to have a power steering leak that I need to address. Now that I have attempted to roll the motor over, it looks like I am leaking from the reservoir.
 
So I have a 99 Eclipse GS with 127k miles on it and now recentely it won't start at all.

No sputter, or anything.
The battery seems fine (none of my lights dim out and sound system would drain the battery fast if there was a battery problem)

Recent things that might help pinpoint the problem:

The car started starting late, like a second after I turned the ignition on. Used to start right away about 2-3 weeks ago.

Installed a second amp in my trunk almost two months ago, but ran the power from the same cable as first amp (used a distribution block). One is a 300rms watt amp, the other I do not know (Infinity 411a Reference) so lets say 400rms watt.

The next thing that happened is what I'm pretty sure did my car in. Was traveling at a moderate speed but I got "whirrrrring" sound coming from one of my amps, this problem was with the car ever since I bought it but mostly stopped after I rewired the sound system (the power and sound cables went down the same side of the car before). This was stupid but I just turned off the car while driving, help the clutch in and restart the car right away. I might have been in gear still even. When I restarted the car, something made a grinding noise.

So, I've been trying to figure out the problem myself but decided to get second opinions of course. What do you guys think is wrong with my car? I've gotten people say maybe it is the Starter or the Alternator.

And if it is the Starter or Alternator, how do I replace it on a 420a?

Thanks for the help guys :)

::EDIT:: It Idles a little high sometimes when I first start the car and drive around a little.
 
Car turn over will not start for anything. I parked it last night went to start it this evening and it wouldn't start. I figured it was out of gas so i put some in it still wouldn't start i have compression,spark and fuel to the rail. Im lost please help.
The last time it did this it was missing when i tried to turn it over it was a bad ecu.
(Checked timing all marks line up)
 
If you have fuel, fire, and compression..... then it sounds like something is out of order.

Can you check the pulse fire of the injectors to make sure they are getting a signal to fire.

So it ran fine last night and then it wouldnt start today?
 
I am assuming you are checking fire at the plugs by just removing and watching it spark while turning it over?

How do the plugs look themselves?

It may be worth changing the plugs, although I am doubtful that would solve the issue.

Very strange how it ran fine, and now all of a sudden wont start.

Does it even TRY to hit a lick at ALL?
 
The Starter on your motor is directly behind your exhaust manifold, or headers have you.. The Alternator is by the passenger strut tower, behind the motor.

The grinding noise may have been the starter. May want to invest in a new one. I dont recommend this but you can cross the starter, to test it and to give it power and see if it works. Do this by taking a long screw driver and touch both the positive and the negative terminal on the starter while the ignition is turned to ON.

:dsm:
 
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it just turns doesnt try to hit. The plugs look good i tested them with a spark plug tester this is why im so confused. It took 2 years to build it however still not perfect when it did run had a very slight miss do to a minor vacuum leak but nothing bad. We are doing a custom paint job to it but now have to get it running before we paint it.

Is the fuel also exiting the rail(return line)? Just a thought to make sure nothing is clogged.

yes fuel is leaving the rail
 
What is your compression on the cylinders?

Also.... if you are getting fuel to the rail, and your injectors are getting signal to fire, the only thing I can think of in the fuel system is possibly stopped up injectors. May be worth pulling out and trying to clean them just to see if it helps the matter. When was the last time you changed your filter, or did anything to the fuel system?

When you are turning it over, have someone at the tailpipe and see if you are getting a fuel smell or not. That would at least let you know if you are getting fuel to the cylinder and it just isnt burning, compared to if there is no fuel at all. You could also pull the plugs and test this as another way as well, but safer to use the tailpipe method IMO.

The part that really stumps is that fact it was running fine, and then all of a sudden next day wont even TRY to hit.......... puzzling.
 
Engine coolant temp sensor. There's another thread about this this week alone. Do you have a logger? What's your engine temp reading if you do?
 
Engine coolant temp sensor. There's another thread about this this week alone. Do you have a logger? What's your engine temp reading if you do?

I may be wrong, but I dont think a bad coolant temp sensor would ever KEEP a car from running. Running poorly? Yes. But it should AT LEAST run.

When a coolant temp sensor goes bad, at least all I have ever seen, it either runs rich (usually) or lean. But just because its bad, the car should at the VERY LEAST hit and TRY to run.

I tried searching, but couldnt find anything. Mind posting a link to the thread on that?
 
I may be wrong, but I dont think a bad coolant temp sensor would ever KEEP a car from running. Running poorly? Yes. But it should AT LEAST run.

When a coolant temp sensor goes bad, at least all I have ever seen, it either runs rich (usually) or lean. But just because its bad, the car should at the VERY LEAST hit and TRY to run.

I tried searching, but couldnt find anything. Mind posting a link to the thread on that?

I'm on my phone or I would. There's plenty of threads on it. I've had it happen on my own car as well. The ecu sees a -74 degree engine temp and floods the cylinders trying to fire it up. Very common problem. I've seen one thread this week alone with the exact problem. Go unplug your ect and try and fire the car up.
 
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