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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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I may be wrong, but I dont think a bad coolant temp sensor would ever KEEP a car from running. Running poorly? Yes. But it should AT LEAST run.

When a coolant temp sensor goes bad, at least all I have ever seen, it either runs rich (usually) or lean. But just because its bad, the car should at the VERY LEAST hit and TRY to run.

I tried searching, but couldnt find anything. Mind posting a link to the thread on that?

A bad CTS will tell your car it's like -30 degrees so it cause very LONG NO starts. I'm thinking injectors possibly...only possibly.
 
My coolant temp sensor has gone out, and like you say, it runs rich... but still runs. I would imagine that he would be able to see the wet plug if it was flooding enough to keep it from firing, but, I have seen crazier things.
 
When the coolant temp sensor is gone (or the cable is broken) ecu "reads" an extremely high temp. (i cant remember, but maybe over 160°C degrees)..
so many times i saw this problems on many many DSMs

But you'll see the bad value ONLY on the datalogger.. NOT the instument panel..
 
A bad CTS will tell your car it's like -30 degrees so it cause very LONG NO starts. I'm thinking injectors possibly...only possibly.

My coolant temp sensor has gone out, and like you say, it runs rich... but still runs. I would imagine that he would be able to see the wet plug if it was flooding enough to keep it from firing, but, I have seen crazier things.

When the coolant temp sensor is gone (or the cable is broken) ecu "reads" an extremely high temp. (i cant remember, but maybe over 160°C degrees)..
so many times i saw this problems on many many DSMs

But you'll see the bad value ONLY on the datalogger.. NOT the instument panel..

It's -74F. I've logged this on my own dsms. And it WILL flood the cylinders out.
 
its not that hard bro. if you see the box fuse picture....you put the positive wire or clamp on 1, then connect negative to number 12 which is bottom most left. 1 is uppermost right.. then turn the key on and if all contacts are good the CEL should blink
 
its not that hard bro. if you see the box fuse picture....you put the positive wire or clamp on 1, then connect negative to number 12 which is bottom most left. 1 is uppermost right.. then turn the key on and if all contacts are good the CEL should blink
okay now it stopped running again but i managed to pull the cel code first it was number 23. no 1 top dead center sensor
is it the sensor right on the valve cover? is there anything i have to do before take off the old 1 and install the new 1?

Was the car running like crap when you got it running?

yes it was running like crap sounded like it was only running on 2 cylinders
 
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okay we took the return hose off the fuel rail today and now its empty so we are thinking fuel pump ive read somewhere there is a feul check connector behind the battery but we cant find it.

by the way thanks for all the help so far

i read the same thing about the coolant temp sensor causing the car not to start but we ruled that out
 
Ok guys, just an update.

The new sensor made it so the car would start up... it ran like total crap though. A new GM 3.% inch Mass air flow sensor later and were running great!

The idle is high, but I think its the ISC motor. I havent been out to spec it out with a meter yet, but that's my plans for tonight. (along with a manual rack swap and getting rid of the bad power steering pump and kinked lines. some people man...)

So to sum up my issue...
A combination of a dead ECS, a bad sensor ground at pin 20 on the ECU and the dead GM mass airflow sensor caused my no start condition. I will mark this thread as resolved.

Thank you all so much for your help. This forum has saved my ass and my wallet on many occasions.
 
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i cut the maf wire and iat wire for a chip later found out didnt need to i pinched then back togather but still wont start any ideas? on a 1990 eclipse gs
 
double check all the connections you made, and check all your fuses. I just had a short in my alt. wire causing my alt fuse to blow car would start with a jump then die instantly after I removed the jumper cables. wouldn't think you would of fried the ecu from cutting the wires unless you did it with the car running. decent chance you might of grounded a wire out when you cut them and blew a fuse.
 
Okay, i been reading up about all the other "start,drive,stall,no start" but all different answers.

This talon has been a nightmare, AS YOU ALL KNOW, BACKGROUND, AGAIN...

I bought a talon, 6 bolt swapped, needed a clutch. Replaced the clutch, After, drove the car, and rod knock. Replaced the motor, then IDLE was messed up, replaced throttle body, and intake manifold gasket, and fixed that. Then a oil leak.. fixed that.

NOW, i can turn the car over at a completely cold start NO PROBLEM. but as soon as i let it idle and i go drive for about 5 minutes and then start decelerating it'll stall. After the car stalls, the car refuses to start. The car will crank crank crank and crank some more.. But nothing. I put my used stock 450cc injectors from my GST and put a stock GST fuel pump in the AWD Tsi..

It'll start if i wait about 20-30 minutes and go out and try, and it'll turn right over..

Also the car will barely start if i bump it.. i have to feather gas to get it to stay running though.. Then if i let it stall, it won't start back up =/


What the hell can be going on now... =/
 
i know that they are 2 diffrent thing but my buddys dirt bike was doin the same thing and he need new rings because when the oil was cold it was thick enough to keep compresion but when iit wormed up the oil thind out and it lost compresion :ohdamn: i hope thats not your problem tho considering u put a new motor in it

good luck
 
Well, i read up on this, and i saw that someone mentioned to check out the ALT fuse..

Well; i went outside and checked and sure enough look what i found..

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Explain to me this, can this really cause my car not to run? not having a alt fuse?

How does the ALT fuse work, not to sound like a noob.. =/ i sure hope this is my problem
 

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