Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[TAL0NTSi]

Man you better check your timing. That sounds like ZERO compression. Make sure your timing marks are lined up first and foremost.

Ugh, I hope that's not the case. Last compression test I ran about a month ago was 120 across the board, except for cylinder 4, which seemed a bit low, but I can't remember the number. Maybe I'll try to run another one.

What can cause a motor to have enough compression to idle smoothly, then have none at all?

 

[jcarmichael]

miliman13 could be correct, my car wouldn't start for a week, kept hearing my starter relay clicking had battery and starter checked they where good ended up, shorting the two wires together going to the relay, once I did that started right up.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/408457-ignition-problem.html

thats a link to how to do the starter relay wires might read over the thread to make sure it sounds like the same issue. but its the thread I stumbled across when I couldn't get my car to start but mine wouldn't turn over at all.

 

[LiquidX]

If the wires you snipped ended up grounding out anywhere, it's possible you may have blew the sensor ground on the ECU board.

blownsensorground [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[rEclipserGST]

Ugh, I hope that's not the case. Last compression test I ran about a month ago was 120 across the board, except for cylinder 4, which seemed a bit low, but I can't remember the number. Maybe I'll try to run another one.

What can cause a motor to have enough compression to idle smoothly, then have none at all?

Timing being off. Ecu detecting this. Thus saving itself from destruction sir.

OR proper torque specs were not followed. 120 sounds kind of low. Like in need of service kind of low.

I would suggest doing a compression/leakdown test, a boost leak test as well.

Please check the voltage on your battery along with the terminals, & alternator.

 

[TAL0NTSi]

Timing being off. Ecu detecting this. Thus saving itself from destruction sir.

OR proper torque specs were not followed. 120 sounds kind of low. Like in need of service kind of low.

I would suggest doing a compression/leakdown test, a boost leak test as well.

Please check the voltage on your battery along with the terminals, & alternator.

Thanks for the info. I did the original compression check when the engine had less than 100 miles on it, so I attributed the low readings to that. I'm going to do the compression test and the BLT tomorrow evening. I'll report back with those numbers.

Everything was torqued to spec during the build (I get a bit over zealous about that stuff)

Battery has been on the charger all day, and the alternator is brand new.

It just seems weird to me that there would be a possibility of a timing belt issue. I've done these a million times and I know the tension was good on the belt. Man, I'm so confused.

 

[sparky1987]

Well when I unplug the connector and hook up my dvom and it reads over load im pretty sure its what's causing my problem and possibly the reason its idling at 2000-2500. So hopefully this will be the fix im going to get a new one and go from there thanks for the ohm readings. This forum has definetly been alot of help.

 

[YES]

Hold on! Disconnect your fuel line right after the filter and before the fuel rail, crank it and see if you're getting fuel. If you're getting fuel your fuel pump and filter are good.

 

[talonandeclipse]

did you ever get your problem fixed? if you did could you let me know how you fixed it ### im having the EXACT SAME issue as of today. thanks!

 

[Eagle_Phoenix]

Yes dude!

There is three answer for your problem,

Please, read it carefully as many times you can understand! nobody could help me in this with precise information,

I took months and years to understand this stuff and lost years of tax road on Brazil scamming government, replacing good parts or being crooked by Brazilians selling me rubish.


"No Crankshaft Position Sensor on Crank", no spark ... and no fuel! 100% conviction!


if there is fuel (injectors pulsing) and no spark,

this means that or your transistor is burned or your coil is burned, the last thing is that your ecu may not be sending the Dwell to transistor!

on ignition, one side of the coil get 12v+ and the transistor ground the other end to saturate (Dwell) the coil to ground and spark once it is turned off, it work on wasted spark, 1-4 and 2-3.

You can use a 12v bulb to check for voltage and amperage in the ignition coil also on positive of injectors in order to test the voltage and amperage ..... this make your path very short.

Now, the injectors all of them receive a 12v+ protected by a resistor of around 0.5 ohms and the milliseconds of ground will open the inject and fuel will be pressed .... the ground from those injectors are controlled by 4 darlinghton transistors inside the "ECU".

(The ECU only ground the injectors protected by resistors and some sensors as egr eval and fuel pressure solenoid).

Follow those steps and you will diagnose!

The common problem is the failure of CKP sensor, if it fail, the ECU cannot spark of inject nothing, you can use adapt a 1G CKP\CMP that it will sort your problem if the conventional sensors are bad.

Once again do not forget the both signals of ckp and cmp are ground signals! and if you decide to use it on your car, you must invert the injectors on 1-4 2-3.

If you want to do it, please tell me, I can clarify any other doubt you may have!

I am here to serve you!

I could illustrate all this.

Bye for now!

 

[suprasalas]

check your cam angle sensor if it gose out or comes lose your injectors will not spit fuel to the cylinders..

 

[suprasalas]

check your injectors make sure there not suck open and peeing all over the place...

 

[jared_gibbs]

I know you said you're getting spark, but are you sure that the coil pack is plugged in and working properly? If you're getting fuel and compression and the CTS is reading properly, it's probably a spark issue.

That fuel pump check should be taped to the FIREWALL behind the battery.

I wouldn't think that all injectors would clog up at the same time; I would think that it would happen one at a time. You'll notice when one cylinder isn't firing, it's intolerable.

Any CEL's or codes?

 

[jared_gibbs]

That sensor is made of a pretty soft metal, be careful not to strip it! Use a deep socket, you may end up having to heat it up a little. Man those are a holy PITFA to get out when they're stripped!

 

[steve]

When the coolant temp sensor is gone (or the cable is broken) ecu "reads" an extremely high temp. (i cant remember, but maybe over 160°C degrees)..
so many times i saw this problems on many many DSMs

That's what it does when the wires short, reads very hot. Sensor open very cold....
Look at the resistance vs temp chart in the FSM, temp goes up as the resistance drops.

If I'm reading the posts correctly at this point there is no fuel and no spark, is that correct?

 

[sparky1987]

Im pretty sure my injectors are good but thanks for the info ill double check and make sure. Gotta love this cold ohio weather.

 

[suprasalas]

do you have any exhaust leaks?

 

[sparky1987]

Nope no exhaust leaks or boost leaks that's the first 2 things I checked. I tried to cover as much as I could before I posted. Shame on me for not saying so to begin with. I got a new coolant temp sensor going to put it in this weekend and see what happens.

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

What ever came of this?

 

[zonerdck]

It sounds like you been going through it with this 2g. Do you have any fuel pressure readings and not to insult you but have you checked the plugs for spark. Sorry I haven't seen the other threads. Maybe you could list them for reference I might be able to help you better.

 

[suprasalas]

then this pretty much sumes it up it should be coolent temp sensor.. good luck man

 

[lancej3540]

i just bought a 95 eagle talon awd turbo the guy i bought it from did an engine swap from a 98 talon the motor in there is a 7 bolt, if i understood right from all of my searching i found i needed a 106 tooth ring gear he has a 110 tooth that was grinding til it finally wore down the ring gear

i now have it out and trying to find a ring gear and flex plate for it
i called a place to order a rebuilt torque converter with a new ring gear on it he said they only made a 106 tooth with 3 bolt to converter i have a 4 bolt to converter

i found a new auto flywheel or the car and was wondering if i could us that instead?

 

[pandaswag]

My 2g 420a will not start. It recently had a lifter replaced. The battery is fine, and lights work and everything. The car just wont start. Recently for about a day or two ive had to give it gas to make it start up because when i tried for the last two days it would start up but bog down and die almost immediatly. Push/roll starting the car works, and i let it idle for atleast half an hour, turned it off. It wont start again.


PLEASE HELP ME IMMEDIATELY!! I HAVE WORK AND SCHOOL !!!! what do i need to buy?!!?!?!?

 

[dalesocks]

check to see if you have spark and fuel

 

[Anubis_4_99]

My 2g 420a will not start. It recently had a lifter replaced. The battery is fine, and lights work and everything. The car just wont start. Recently for about a day or two ive had to give it gas to make it start up because when i tried for the last two days it would start up but bog down and die almost immediatly. Push/roll starting the car works, and i let it idle for atleast half an hour, turned it off. It wont start again.


PLEASE HELP ME IMMEDIATELY!! I HAVE WORK AND SCHOOL !!!! what do i need to buy?!!?!?!?

So are you saying the starter doesn't work with the key, or are you saying the starter works, but it doesn't fire up unless you bump start it?

Gotta be a little more specific.

check to see if you have spark and fuel

He obviously has spark and fuel if he let it idle for half an hour. Read the post before offering advice

 

[danny97gsx]

If you can push start it, and pop the clutch, and it runs.. and drives, and Idles.. that would make me think the starter is having trouble turning over the engine.

I would find a hammer, or something u can hit the starter with, and smack the starter a few times before you try and start it. This is an easy way to find out if the starter is going bad. Sometimes after smacking the starter, it will crank right up...

Im no pro, just offering help. Good luck!