Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[1gdsmftw]

u may wanna check the valves.

 

[95gst92]

Valves were good... I got lucky

 

[English_Rugby]

Okay so by fried I mean one wire shorted and burned all the sheath and melted the sheath around to many other wires..This short extended from my fuse box in the passenger side engine bay through the lighting harness across the connection to the interior harness, through to the connection into the steering column wiring assembly to the section my alarm was wired to. When I turn the key I have lights on within the dash, also, the ECU clicks, as does the security, and the relay in the engine compartment, but the starter does not initiate whatsoever. When I removed the alarm system I removed all the hardware and soldered everything back into the stock position.. Perhaps my solders were no good and broke because the wire was short due to the bad alarm install. It sounds like this may be my problem (i.e. not enough connection to get power to the starter) as it was a large wire. The car is a manual. Thanks for your ideas I appreciate it.
John

 

[bryanwheat]

You need to do a continuity test from the ignition switch to the starter relay and from the starter relay to the starter.

 

[Timmay_8]

My 1995 Eclipse GSX's cylinders 1 and 4 are not firing. When testing the Crank Position Sensor, I get a fluctuation of around 2.8V to 4.5V when cranking the car. I've been trying to figure out this problem and I've been reading stuff for about 10 hours in the past few days. The signal from the PT is not going to the coil packs. I had it running for 2 secs out of all the times I've tried in the past few days, so I thought it was something in the harness of the PT or coil pack connector because it was moved around a bit when testing to see if the PT is good or not.
Coil packs are new as well as the OEM PT. My old PT was used to test, but had the same results. However, I'm not sure if that was a good one to use. When testing the PT, my new one lights up the test 12V bulb slowly, while my old one would go bright almost instantly.
Are my tests for the CPS and the PT conclusive to anything? I think that CPS is on its way out but should still give signal to fire 1/4, unless it only does that if the voltage is on the lower side (lower than my 2.8V but more than .4V). I think that the PT test showing slowly lighting bulb is just because it's new, and that's what it should look like. Those are my hypotheses on those two matters. Can someone please shed some light on this?

 

[JohnGrossi]

Just finished throwing everything together on a fresh rebuild with rebuilt head and block
Went to start it up but have no spark, wondering what would cause this condition
I'm guessing its the CAS because I made my own with some spade connectors since I was unable to get my hands on the actual connector.
I was also told to check and make sure the coil pack has the correct plug in it because the compressor and coil pack have the same connector.
I was wondering what else would cause this condition. I haven't had much time to look over this. I plan on doing a compression test and making sure I have fuel when I get off work. Any suggestions to lead me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated

 

[95dsmgsx95]

I'm not sure about 1gs but I know the 2gs A/C compressor and coil pack plugs are the same, the compressor one should be longer anyways.I would start by checking your power transistor unit.

 

[steve]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

I don't think the coil and compressor connectors are the same on a 1G.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...12841-1990-engine-control-wiring-harness.html

 

[slow91]

I am getting the same problem, but number 2-3 injector are firing. Number 1-4 are not, I've changed everything also, I have dsmlink also, so I know my coolant temp is good cause it reads 76-80, could this also be ecu related to where it doesn't ground those 2 injectors??? I'm stumped also cause I was driving my car also then after shutting it off for about 10-15 min it never fired back up, mine is a 96 with a 6 bolt swap!!! ### help

 

[daplatano91]

Slow91 this thread has been resolved since 6/27 your not going to get answers here.

 

[97-TSi-Hx35]

its the same stuff, I use a 90 coils in my 1997. Check for injector pulse,do you have injector pulse?

 

[Timmay_8]

While waiting for any answers to my dilemma, I double checked all the wiring, inch by inch, double checked the ECU, and other common ignition problems. I decided it was the CPS. I used an old OEM from another engine I acquired 7 years ago, but never touched. The newly installed sensor fixed my problems. Voltage readings were from about .2V to 4.9V cranking. I didn't bother to see what it was idling.

 

[steve]

its the same stuff, I use a 90 coils in my 1997.

Really? The 90 coil pack has a 4 pin connector and he has a 3 pin connector used on the 91+ cars. The AC on a 1G looks to have a round 1 pin connector. What am I missing?

 

[English_Rugby]

The starter actually clicks, sorry, I couldn't hear it before, but it just does not start the engine... Any ideas as far as that is concerned? Clearly there is continuity to the starter through the harness, but no power getting to it?

 

[Flip90gsx]

Check if you have fuel? I'm assuming it's cranking. Have you checked to see if it's spark or fuel that you are not getting yet?

 

[JohnGrossi]

i checked the coil pack, plug wires and power transistor and they were all in spec. it turns out that in the process of making my own CAS clip i reversed two of the wires. Its always a stupid little mistake that gets overlooked that gets you scratching your head wondering what could have possibly went wrong.

 

[Xx RAY xX]

I'm having the same problem with my talon. I just bought it thinking it just needed new spark plugs and wires so I changed that and it still won't start. Some dude told me to change the head gasket but i don't know if to do that or no. Like it wants to start but it won't it's weird. I'm new to the dsm world and looking in to fixin it up and drivin it already can some one help me too?

 

[gofer]

Tech Articles: 1G How To Diagnose A No Start

 

[talon_tempers]

OK I will try to keep this as brief as possible. 92 talon tsi awd 126k. hard pipes, front mount intercooler, full 3 inch exhaust (small exhaust leak after o2 sensor on downpipe flange) safc2, 650 fic injectors, some stupid fpr thing that I dont know how to play with, manual boost controller. oh the ecu is eprom socketed for 450cc fwd, from my old baby r.i.p. =[ The car did have an hks vpc installed also when i bought it, here is where i am stumped, I remove the vpc and go back to a stock maf with the intake pipe before the turbo. It immediatly throws a cel, the problem was the coolant temp wires had dryed and cracked off of the sensors, so I spliced new spade connectors and that solved the cel, but i still have a hot start problem?? It will just crank crank crank. once the temp gauge drops to the white line in the middle ( not the actual temperature icon in the center, the line to the left of that) which i assume is operating temperature line it will start right up. HEP !

 

[92AWDHX40]

Ok spark, fuel, compression, check the damaged wiring and make sure the wires are correct, cotolant
temp sensor could be fault it could cause a no start problem. 660 injectors and 450 burned to the chip, could be a problem right there, using a chipped ecu, thats not corresponding with you injectors in the car.

 

[talon_tempers]

Forgot to mention i removed the vpc because i had idle surge constantly and it didnt really want to idle at all..

Yea I thought the ecu might be it, but if that was the case wouldnt I have starting issues all of the time?

also fuel tank releases a surprising amount of pressure when i remove gas cap, but still no start after the pressure is relieved.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Never assume what about the comptuer and injectors?

 

[talon_tempers]

I am getting some 450cc's HOPEFULLY this week. I will post back then thanks for the quick response.

 

[-red97rum-]

Sounds like it could be the coolant temp sensor on it's way out. Hook up your logger and watch what if it reads anything weird after you've been driving around for a while. I had one die on me and it would read -70 degrees after it got hot and the car wouldn't start again until it cooled down for at least 30-45 minutes.

 

[talon_tempers]

Wouldn't I have a check engine light if the coolant temp was faulty or misreading? I just picked up some 450s from a friend and a stock regulator installing it now. Would this injector size mismatch happen to be source of my super rich afr's? I have been running so rich... when I bought the car the guy had 2 blow off valves on it, I put a stock bov on, replaced a shredded intake manifold gasket, a leaky exhaust manifold, new valve cover, new injector o rings, new throttle body gasket, pretty much any gasket that would cause a boost leak I replaced.. as well as oil line gaskets for turbo. Well I will post back in a few hours I hope the factory injectors solve most of my issues...

If I had a logger life would be a lot easier... I am working on it trust me. winning