Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[hoyboi]

yea it is what size would u recommend ?

 

[96talontso]

Mine is my DD as well and when i get the cash for my big 16g im getting the evo injectors. 560cc i believe it is. fuel pump+injectors+20g your gonna be looking at below 13 or 14 mpg bud.... Im looking for like 300-350 horsepower, and thats alot for a DD... Just saying, unless you like refilling every week id probably go evo injectors

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

96talontso.
If he has it set to 10 psi then he's under stock hp specs. 10 psi on 8.0:1 compression is 10 psi on 8.0:1 compression. Stock the 2g's are like 12-14ish. It's not power.
And initially when I started reading his post I was thinking MAP.
So to the OP. If there's a crack in your intake pipe, it needs to be sealed, because anything that's between the MAP and the throttle body is metered air, if there is a hole, the computer doesn't know what it's working with.
I'd imagine you can just jb weld it if you're careful and prep the location, as there isn't any pressure in that piping.

 

[96talontso]

96talontso.
If he has it set to 10 psi then he's under stock hp specs. 10 psi on 8.0:1 compression is 10 psi on 8.0:1 compression. Stock the 2g's are like 12-14ish. It's not power.
And initially when I started reading his post I was thinking MAP.
So to the OP. If there's a crack in your intake pipe, it needs to be sealed, because anything that's between the MAP and the throttle body is metered air, if there is a hole, the computer doesn't know what it's working with.
I'd imagine you can just jb weld it if you're careful and prep the location, as there isn't any pressure in that piping.

Duhhhhh. That totally spaced from me... i shouldve thought of that... Thanks for the clarification

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

And the injectors won't kill your fuel economy, unless you don't have them tunered in and you're running pig rich with AFR's like 9.0 or somewhere.
You're perfectly fine with that 20g for now. it won't hurt anything long as the boost is 15 psi or less. but I wouldn't push it at all without a wideband.
I'm running link v2, I know, it's old, NGK AFX wideband, 1000cc injectors and a million other things, but the thing is that at WOT I'm seeing AFR's around 11.2-11.6. Which is safely rich, not lean, not pig righ, and I get 19 mpg. AWD, 440ish AWHP on pump gas.

And just so the two of you know, it's a general rule of thumb that the more you put into your car to make it fast, the less enjoyable the drive to work is every morning.
If you can build an engine that idle's perfectly at 24 psi and 8.5:1 compression making 400 whp that is completely reliable and has a clutch that isn't too stressful, then all the power to ya. You just can't start with the expectation that it will happen, it's a lot of work. And a lot of thought should go into your turbo charger thought.
the 20g: spool seems to be around 3800-4000 rpm, which is okay, but you're not feeling it from the stop sign, because you're not launching often, unless you want to break everything. So you really ought to be moving on the highway if you want to feel the 20g.
The big 16g is pointless in my eyes, spools slower and flows less than an evoIII 16g. which has been touted as by far the best street turbo out there. You can make 400 horse simply enough and a good 10psi by 3000 revs.
But I'm just a guy with a small 16G and a garrett large frame BB turbo. So I don't have a 20g, an evoIII or big 16G...

 

[hoyboi]

And the injectors won't kill your fuel economy, unless you don't have them tunered in and you're running pig rich with AFR's like 9.0 or somewhere.
You're perfectly fine with that 20g for now. it won't hurt anything long as the boost is 15 psi or less. but I wouldn't push it at all without a wideband.
I'm running link v2, I know, it's old, NGK AFX wideband, 1000cc injectors and a million other things, but the thing is that at WOT I'm seeing AFR's around 11.2-11.6. Which is safely rich, not lean, not pig righ, and I get 19 mpg. AWD, 440ish AWHP on pump gas.

And just so the two of you know, it's a general rule of thumb that the more you put into your car to make it fast, the less enjoyable the drive to work is every morning.
If you can build an engine that idle's perfectly at 24 psi and 8.5:1 compression making 400 whp that is completely reliable and has a clutch that isn't too stressful, then all the power to ya. You just can't start with the expectation that it will happen, it's a lot of work. And a lot of thought should go into your turbo charger thought.
the 20g: spool seems to be around 3800-4000 rpm, which is okay, but you're not feeling it from the stop sign, because you're not launching often, unless you want to break everything. So you really ought to be moving on the highway if you want to feel the 20g.
The big 16g is pointless in my eyes, spools slower and flows less than an evoIII 16g. which has been touted as by far the best street turbo out there. You can make 400 horse simply enough and a good 10psi by 3000 revs.
But I'm just a guy with a small 16G and a garrett large frame BB turbo. So I don't have a 20g, an evoIII or big 16G...

hey man thanks for the repy i thought it would be the crack i just wasnt sure that it would make big enough difference to keep my car from starting but thats all i can think that it would be

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

You'd be surprise what a pinhole might do.
There's less restriction at the hole to open air than the filter. So you're sucking in open air, taking less past the MAP, and definitely running lean.
Probably not scarily lean, cause the computer can correct a bit, but once you get it fixed you'll be fine.

 

[96talontso]

And the injectors won't kill your fuel economy, unless you don't have them tunered in and you're running pig rich with AFR's like 9.0 or somewhere.
You're perfectly fine with that 20g for now. it won't hurt anything long as the boost is 15 psi or less. but I wouldn't push it at all without a wideband.
I'm running link v2, I know, it's old, NGK AFX wideband, 1000cc injectors and a million other things, but the thing is that at WOT I'm seeing AFR's around 11.2-11.6. Which is safely rich, not lean, not pig righ, and I get 19 mpg. AWD, 440ish AWHP on pump gas.

And just so the two of you know, it's a general rule of thumb that the more you put into your car to make it fast, the less enjoyable the drive to work is every morning.
If you can build an engine that idle's perfectly at 24 psi and 8.5:1 compression making 400 whp that is completely reliable and has a clutch that isn't too stressful, then all the power to ya. You just can't start with the expectation that it will happen, it's a lot of work. And a lot of thought should go into your turbo charger thought.
the 20g: spool seems to be around 3800-4000 rpm, which is okay, but you're not feeling it from the stop sign, because you're not launching often, unless you want to break everything. So you really ought to be moving on the highway if you want to feel the 20g.
The big 16g is pointless in my eyes, spools slower and flows less than an evoIII 16g. which has been touted as by far the best street turbo out there. You can make 400 horse simply enough and a good 10psi by 3000 revs.
But I'm just a guy with a small 16G and a garrett large frame BB turbo. So I don't have a 20g, an evoIII or big 16G...

I meant evoIII big 16g for the record...

 

[Bwoodd88]

Ok here's what going on i bought 95 Eclipse RS NT 5speed. I paid 400 for it because it wouldnt start. It was as simple as changing out the wires for the battery. Then the problems came raining down. Here's whats new: Alternator, Radiator, valvecover gasket, sparkplugs, fuelpump, fuel regulator, fuel filter, and last but not least all new exhaust. These were all done as needed during the brief time the car was running. It still wont start it turns over but will not start fuel pressure checks out fine. What do i need to do or replace at this point. I like this car but man its driving me up the wall, any help or sugestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[turbodude]

Could be a number of problems, from no spark to the timing being off. Check out the link to the thread below and go through the list of potential causes:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

Good luck

 

[91AwdTsiNoobie]

Could be a number of problems, from no spark to the timing being off. Check out the link to the thread below and go through the list of potential causes:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

Good luck

agree. basic steps for a car to start air,spark, and fuel

 

[95gst92]

It has a 92 talon turbo motor in it.. The car has been sitting at my parents for two years cause my brother wouldn't let go of it. It just died on him when he parked it and it will turn over and it's getting fuel. Acts like it wants to start but won't completely get there. Anybsuggestions on what to check? I'm not very familiar with this car

 

[Boostinsideways]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[1gdsmftw]

I know when I bought my fiances gsx for her for 800 bucks it was a barn car for 7 years. They said that it just up and died 1 day and couldn't get it to start again. It turned out when i opened up the ecu it wreaked of bad fish. It turned out the spark board was fried and wasn't letting it start.

Also since it had been sitting I would strongly suggest dumping that fuel and getting new stuff in all while checking the tank for excessive rust.

My money is either on the ECU or the power module under the coil packs or last but not least the cam angle sensor.

 

[BWeston]

Yeah, if you said it's getting fuel, I'm willing to bet it's your power transistor or your coilpack. Have you checked your sparkplugs?

 

[95gst92]

I put new ones in it but I never even checked to see if it was getting spark.. I was to busy on the fuel which I didn't replace... I haven't had to much time on it. I've been trying to get ahold of my brothers old mechanic to see what all upgrades he put on the car. That's becoming impossible. I'm going to check all of those things Tom. I appreciate The help. Where are these things located at?

 

[DSM1G90]

2 yrs sitting? Flush out the tank and put fresh fuel in it - fuel has gone to varnish.

Change the fuel filter as well.

Good luck - DSM

 

[gsxxer]

Another thing to consider if it's been sitting is rodents and what not screwing around in there. It sounds far fetched but my car was a barn car when I bought it as well and mice had built a crazy nest in the airbox almost totally blocking off the thing.

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

Did this ever get fixed?

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

Turn on the key. The factory boost gauge in the Gauge pod should go to 0. And a check engine light should come on for 5 seconds. If these two things don't happen, then it's definitely your ECU.

 

[EclipseGS-TuRbO]

It has a 92 talon turbo motor in it.. The car has been sitting at my parents for two years cause my brother wouldn't let go of it. It just died on him when he parked it and it will turn over and it's getting fuel. Acts like it wants to start but won't completely get there. Anybsuggestions on what to check? I'm not very familiar with this car

3 things a car needs to start is air (compression) fuel, spark. if thats not it check the coil pack

 

[English_Rugby]

I bought a 1g a few years back, I since found out that my light harness was fried, and this short went through my interior harness also to the aftermarket alarm that was installed. Anyway, I had to replace the harnesses which I just have, the light harness and the interior (leaving the original engine harness). Now, the vehicle did start before I swapped the harness, but now the starter does not click. I checked the wiring to the starter that is good. It was a canadian vehicle but now is using USA harnesses but the plugs are the same on those two harnesses. Basically I am wondering what I should check before I proceed to take my dash out again and deal with all that fun stuff (i.e. replace engine harness).... Possibly not a question for a newb forum but there you go. I have also checked and swapped around all the relays under the interior cross-brace driver side. Thanks in advance,
John.

 

[bryanwheat]

When you say fried, do you mean like burnt melted wires, or just not working properly? Don't pull the dash before you check a few things. Have you verified that the starter actually will spin the engine if you jump the solenoid? When you turn the key on do any lights come on on on the cluster, and do you hear the ecu relay click? If the lights on the dash come on as normal and you hear the relay click when you turn it to the on position than for the most part your wiring is good. Also when you turn the key to the start position with the with the clutch pushed in do you hear a relay click? Is this car a manual or auto?

 

[CrawlinZX14]

You also said there was an alarm on this car, and it sounded like you wired the new stuff around it and or removed the alarm. Did it have an ignition kill in the alarm that you did not reconnect? If you are saying its not even clicking, then my suggestion would be to get a multimeter and check the signal wire to your starter at your starter.

IF that is getting power, then you may just need to do a starter rewire similar to the fuel pump rewire. I used to have a lot of problems with the MK3 supra in where the OEM wiring from the ign was just to small and over time deteriorated to the point it would not trigger the starter anymore. But it would however work perfectly to trigger a relay. and so you would add a relay and basically do the DSM fuel pump rewire, but on the starter and run that line directly to the starter ign line. Or a push button starter depending on what you are planning to do.

Check your starter for power first, then work back from there. My bet tho is that when you did the rewire for your headlights, something did not get connected back to that alarm and the alarm is not allowing the car to turn over.

 

[95gst92]

Thanks for all the help... Come to find out, it jumped timing.. About to pull everything to see if the tensioner broke or came loose