Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[SoonerTalon]

I do and we can reflash it to see if that works. When i installed the 2G MAF the car at least ran before the DSM link but would die after 30 seconds. Now it just turns over and nothing. Also it is turning over very quickly, a lot faster than previously.

 

[steve]

All 1G versions of DSMLink/ECMLink have flash to save the settings. It can get corrupted but it's pretty unusual. The V2 and earlier 2G versions loose their setting when the battery is disconnected.

You say that the CEL doesn't turn on at all so make sure that you can connect to the ECU from the Link client and then post a log of trying to start it.

 

[SoonerTalon]

Yeah its a 1G chip running v3. I will plug it in tonight and see what it reports. Thanks for the help guys, hopefully this will resolve the issue.

 

[Supra Mario]

#1) I tried searching but I'm in a hurry so if I didn't see a thread I'm sorry.

I need help, my 98 GST won't start after I attempted to flash and it failed. I used th ROM and DEF from Ceddy. I tried flashing with the same ROM I read off the stock ecu and now it turns over and tries starting and then it dies. Is my ecu locked?? I have no Idea what happened.

 

[Supra Mario]

Anybody?
Btw. Here's the log it tried.
OpenEcu Mitsubishi H8/539FA Kernel V1.07
[18:51:10.220] reading kernel comm buffer size
[18:51:10.225] comm buffer size set to 256
[18:51:10.225] reading kernel flash buffer size
[18:51:10.230] flash buffer size set to 1024
[18:51:10.242] -- flashing image to ECU memory --
[18:51:10.642] -- comparing ECU flash memory pages to image file --
[18:51:10.642] seg start len ecu CRC32 img CRC32 same?
[18:51:10.660] EB0 00010000 000003FF 0C5A8D75 0C5A8D75 YES
[18:51:10.679] EB1 00010400 000003FF 88308BEE 88308BEE YES
[18:51:10.697] EB2 00010800 000003FF 0F027770 0F027770 YES
[18:51:10.715] EB3 00010C00 000003FF 7FC26E54 7FC26E54 YES
[18:51:11.052] EB4 00011000 00006FFF F4E6CC86 8F7159A6 NO
[18:51:11.436] EB5 00018000 00007FFF 4D25B68C 4D25B68C YES
[18:51:11.819] EB6 00020000 00007FFF 1FB2B575 1FB2B575 YES
[18:51:12.203] EB7 00028000 00007FFF AAEE9B4B AAEE9B4B YES
[18:51:12.203] kernel flash enable
[18:51:12.208] kernel blank flash page: addr: 00011000
[18:51:12.523] kernel error: programming failure
[18:51:12.523] WARNING: failed to erase page at 00011000!
[18:51:12.523] kernel flash disable

[18:51:12.529] interface close

 

[Will_emo2007]

Your going to have to find a stock flash file on line. I googled stock 98 gst flah and found one this happened to me 2 days ago. I got one onlie flashed it and every thing is good.

 

[Supra Mario]

Thanks a ton, i hope hope hope that works.

 

[Supra Mario]

I cant find the file though any way to help?

 

[nickxf250]

Pm me your email address and I'll send you the rom when I get home tonight.

 

[Supra Mario]

Will do thanks!!

 

[TimF]

Ok I know this topic has been covered a lot, but I have been running through the tests and still cant get it to stay running.

I stopped driving my Auto tsi over a year ago. I stopped driving it due to the rocker panels completely rusting through to the point that my side skirts feel off. At that point I hacked off all infected metal and coated it with paint and parked it as I got a new DD. Towards the end the motor always started fine, ran decent, but my alternator went out so eventually it would only start with a jump. After I stopped driving it I decided to pull to motor and do basic maintenance. I replaced all gaskets and seals, but did not replace rings and bearings as I figured due to it running and starting before they were fine (looking back i wish I did).

Things I done
Like stated I replaced all gaskets from head to block
new belts, pulleys, and tensioner
Used arp head studs
new alternator
rebuilt 14b
added 450cc injectors (originally auto 390)
aeromotive fpr (set at 37psi)
installed a FMIC with 2.5 in piping and 50mm bov
5 speed ecu

I also have a 3in exhaust and boost gauge from when the car was running before

Essentially I put the motor and everything back in my car, and went to go start it and it would only crank. So since then I have

Tested for spark (all cylinders are getting spark)
Checked timing with a gun
fuel pump works and cylinders are getting fuel
boost leak test(found a small leak and fixed it)
compression test. Did it first with a low battery and got 90 85 90 90, went back and did it with a charged battery and got 140 120 130 130, although low I was told its still good enough to start the car
checked coolant temp sensor
emptied fuel ( was sitting for a year) and put in fresh 93
there were others things I did as well, just cant remember everything

after adjusting a few things and adding starting fluid into the mix I am able to get the car to turn over and run for about 2 sec until it dies again. The
longest it stayed running was about 10 sec before dying.

I am wondering what else should I be looking for that is keeping the car from staying alive?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Do you have fuel to the rail?

 

[doubleclutch]

Since you can get it to run on starting fluid (briefly at least) it sounds like you have spark at the right time. When it runs do you get any backfiring? Have you checked the actual fuel pressure? Are you sure your new injectors are good? Do you have link and are you able to get a reading on what the maf is seeing? Have you tried going back to your old ECU? Unfortunately you broke into every system that contributes to a properly running car, air, fuel, spark, timing, and engine control. It may be difficult to diagnose without swapping some of the old parts back in.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Plugged or varnished fuel injector tips since it sat???

 

[TimF]

The injectors were bought and installed since the motor sat but I planned on checking if their firing anyway tomorrow morning. No there is not back firing, and I do have link on the car, and have not tired the old ecu either. I checked to make sure fuel was getting to my cylinders by just pulling out the plugs and smelling them and they smell like fuel. I am also going to run another compression test, If I do have to put new rings in I want to know asap

rechecked compression with a different gauge this time around its good, fuel pressure is good, I pulled the injectors and watched them fire they fire fine. Maybe this will help narrow it down, I pulled my uicp and for the hell of it tried starting the car. It started right up and idled at about 1.5k for at least 30 sec, then started surging and died. maybe that can help narrow a problem?

 

[TimF]

I did a short data log of me trying to start my car but I dont know how to post it on here

 

[mercaholik]

When it dies, and then you try to start it what does it do? Start right up, not start, hard start? You might have to re check when it dies out. Might be a bunch of things, so you have the ability to data log sensors?

 

[TimF]

if it dies and I try to restart it just cranks. I checked tps right now its reading right and running at .61v (slightly off .63v) idk how to data log sensors?
everything worked fine before I removed the motor the only sensor I replaced was the knock sensor

 

[92AWDHX40]

Well look for fuel spark, and compression, those three.

 

[TimF]

already looked at all those

 

[TimF]

my last compression test, full battery wot was getting 140 145 140 145, checked spark multiple times all cylinders are getting it, checked fuel pressure, its right, all injectors are firing, and I even pulled them out and watched them fire they are are spraying right

 

[livedsm4g63]

You need those 3 for the engine to start.

Did you pull the plugs to check for spark?

Post a log, or email me one.

 

[TimF]

how can I post a log? I have one I cant figure how to attach it tho, also no I did not actually check the plugs for spark I just used a testing light to see if they were getting power or not

 

[livedsm4g63]

Pull 1 plug, pull the MPI fuse by the battery. Have someone turn the car over (throttle @ WOT) and with the plug still in the plug wire, touch the tip to the valve cover.....

Do this for all 4 plugs.....

 

[TimF]

checked them there good, and I even replaced them just for the hell of it and still not start. but there definatly sparking. Livedsm4g63 if you give me your email I saved a log of me trying to start my car up if you want to take a look. Also is it possible I need to pull of my CAS and just flip it 180 and reintall it? possible that my injectors are spraying and my plugs are sparking opposite of each other?