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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the links.

I tried the 90 cas, wired as shown. No difference.

In aem the ecu reads 100% throttle with the tb closed and doesn't change when open.
The cts also has issues read, can these cause a no start.

There is fuel and spark it will idle for about 3 seconds when it's lit off with starter fluid.
 
Yes, both of those will ruin your efforts. There is a feature that kills the cars starting ability when the TPS is at 100% like that and also the CTS is important to the starting logic since there is an enrichment factored in determined by the engine's operating temp. I had all the probs in the world with my 6 bolt swap just from the CTS, fix both and I bet it fires no prob. Good luck!
 
You sure the coil pack is plugged in? There's another connected below that, I'm not sure what it does but the car won't run without it.
 
I'm going to go with the cts being bad or a broken wire to it. If the ecm reads it as warm it send less fuel or when it's cold it'll send more fuel on start up.
 
coil and power transistor

injector resistor pack [had once swapped the isc and inj resistor sockets, no start...]

cts will start the car, but run rich
 
Thanks for the replies.
I tested the cts. It checks out.
Tested the injector resistor. It checks out.
Tested the coilpack. It is not within range. Actually it is 1.1 and 1.2 ohms.
I will be getting a coilpack from the junkyard is this the problem? It get spark because it has idled a few times for about 3 secs.
Also my main chassis ground is 10ga could this cause no start?
 
So I was putting my 2g, 6bolt swap back together, and the heat shrink that was over the o2 sensor wire connections slipped causing the two wires to touch, now the car wont start.I checked the ecu and nothing looked noticeably wrong, fuses are all good, seems like the fuel pump isn't priming, but i can hear it when i stop cranking for a second or two, it has spark, ran fine before this, I had taken the intake and exhaust mani to get ported out, replaced some seals on the TB and new injector seals, just to get an idea of if there something i maybe did wrong when i put it back together that would cause a no start? It sometimes will pop like it wants to start up, and i have checked the plug wire order, injector wiring, well pretty much all the wiring to make sure it was right. I also tested the relay thats under the stereo in the middle, is that the mpi relay? all the pics of the mpi relay showed a much larger relay than what I tested.
 
The fuel pump doesn't prime on the stock ecu with the key in the run position. It only begins pumping when you start cranking the engine to start it. What you are hearing is it running for a second after you stop cranking the engine. So I don't think your problem is fuel pump related.

And for the MPI relay... Yeah, that's where it is located, but I can't remember if there is anything else in that area that you may be seeing instead. :hmm:

I would check the 20A engine fuse in the underhood fusebox though. You may have just blown it and it may need replaced. Good luck! :thumb:
 
I am stumped. I could start the car on Saturday ( idled for 40 seconds then died, or I would pull the MAF and it would idle fine) I took it for a drive down the road (maybe a 1/4). Once I pulled back into my driveway the only way i could get it started is by pushing the gas pedal and giving it gas.
I have checked spark, I am getting a fuel injector pulse (noid light test), I can smell gas after I try to start it. It will sputter. I swapped in a Wally 255 just to make sure I had a good pump. I put in a hallman MBC and a upper hard IC pipe with a NGR bov before I drove it.

I don't know... I was getting 10lbs of boost and vac was at 15 idling. Now it will not start. I think my timing was off by 1 tooth, but I just re-timed it again...

HELP!
 
I am stumped. I could start the car on Saturday ( idled for 40 seconds then died, or I would pull the MAF and it would idle fine) I took it for a drive down the road (maybe a 1/4). Once I pulled back into my driveway the only way i could get it started is by pushing the gas pedal and giving it gas.
I have checked spark, I am getting a fuel injector pulse (noid light test), I can smell gas after I try to start it. It will sputter. I swapped in a Wally 255 just to make sure I had a good pump. I put in a hallman MBC and a upper hard IC pipe with a NGR bov before I drove it.

I don't know... I was getting 10lbs of boost and vac was at 15 idling. Now it will not start. I think my timing was off by 1 tooth, but I just re-timed it again...

HELP!

Compression test
 
Maybe try swapping out plugs with a new set and also make sure the gap is good. I have had a couple cars lately that have stopped running and ended up being the plugs went bad. You can still get spark but it just wont be strong enough to get the car to start and run.
 
Sounds like you've done a few to many things at once bro. Are you sure everything is plugged back in properly? Are you sure the timing is dead on and not a tooth off still? Have you done a boost leak test yet since changing the ic piping and stuff? What is your fuel pressure? since you have a 255 in do you have a afpr to adjust pressure back to stock?
 
I have a 99 eclipse gs 420a ozzy edition. I pulled the tranny and motor out to fix a few things. However, the only thing I did to the harness was to unplug the sensors. I hooked up everything including grounds. My relays on the firewall are clicking. However, I am not getting any volts. I though that the middle wire was a power wire...when I have the prong on the positive side of the battery and I touch the middle wire with the probe it says 12volts. I am very confused. I have changed out the plugs and coilpack. The car is not receiving any spark...
 
I took the cas out of the head. I spun it by hand I hear no injectors firing. The key is on. I pull the plug about and stuck it to negative battery and spin cas, no spark.
Does this mean cas is bad and is this my problem?
How can car semi start with bad cas and starting fluid?
 
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