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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Okay, well I believe I fixed the Coolant Temp Sensor wiring. The car will now fire up every time and attempts to idle by itself. It idles, around 450rpm, for about a minute before it died.

It still runs like there is a massive vac leak or it's running two cylinders. The RPM's go up so slowly with any throttle applied.

Also, the boost gauge, at idle, shows 0 on the gauge. It is not idling in vacuum.

Any ideas?
 
The head is likely to be warped beyond spec, no head gasket will seal for long with a warped head. Do a compression test, if the compression is low pull the head again, have it checked for warp by your machine shop and if necessary have it machined back to spec and then install the head with a new head gasket and if your smart new head bolts.

Before i reinstalled everything, i took the head the a very reliable machinist. He checked them cleaned them and checked again. He said the head had no warp whatsoever. So I then began to put it all back together. The car started and ran 4 miles before getting hot. but after it cooling and adding coolant. It wouldn't start again after.
 
Okay, well I believe I fixed the Coolant Temp Sensor wiring. The car will now fire up every time and attempts to idle by itself. It idles, around 450rpm, for about a minute before it died.

It still runs like there is a massive vac leak or it's running two cylinders. The RPM's go up so slowly with any throttle applied.

Also, the boost gauge, at idle, shows 0 on the gauge. It is not idling in vacuum.

Any ideas?
So the car is sparking and running on all 4 at least now right?
Also can you run the wastegate vacuum hose to the stock solenoid or to the intercooler j pipe nipple for now at least. You can run the boost gauge to the P-port niple instead and have the FPR to manifold straight.
Also boost leak test possible right now ?
 
Fuel? Spark? Maybe the ticking was just because it was cold, what weight oil?

Also, how cold is it? Maybe Coolant temperature sensor?

Mine had that problem, was in the negative °F it would turn over and sputter but wouldn't start until it got about 45°F then it finally ran. Replaced the cts and fixed my problem. Also, my spark plugs were fouled aswell.
 
Checked fuel and spark. Looked on a scan tool and the temp was correct. Just got new 10w30 castrol full synthetic and plugs and wires. At this point im leaning more toward timing
 
Oh yea spark looks great on all of them. I turned the crank shaft over like 10 times and the cams never lined up. The giy before me had the motor out and it looks like he didnt know all of what he was doing
 
Oh yea spark looks great on all of them. I turned the crank shaft over like 10 times and the cams never lined up. The giy before me had the motor out and it looks like he didnt know all of what he was doing

How far off is your timing???
 
I havent pulled the pulley off yet to see the timing pulley but whenever #1 is at tdc the marks are off but when i move the crank about a quarter turn then the ticks line up.

I recommend that you take the crank pulley off so you can see where your crank sprocket is lined up. So we know how far its jumped. If it has or not. If you want details instructions on how to get to it let me know. Did you ever turn your cas 180?
 
Well just a heads up since I got my car to started I guess I'll post what I did for others who have the same problem. So one day my car started just fine and idles perfect. It did everything the way it was suppose to. The next day out of nowhere it would crank but not start. At some point it really started to hesitate to start and shake but still not start. So My best guess was a fuel problem. On I went to simple things and changed the fuel filter, cranked it back up and it started like a champ.
 
Well i got a little farther. It seems that everything is one tooth off from the crank and the exhaust cam looks to be maybe 2 teeth off from the other cam! Not sure exactly how it even ran but i guess it jumped at least one tooth considering i drove it over an hour before i parked it. Ive been over that how to a lot and im pretty sure i can do it no problem but i just need the special tools.
 
Well i got a little farther. It seems that everything is one tooth off from the crank and the exhaust cam looks to be maybe 2 teeth off from the other cam! Not sure exactly how it even ran but i guess it jumped at least one tooth considering i drove it over an hour before i parked it. Ive been over that how to a lot and im pretty sure i can do it no problem but i just need the special tools.

You dont need special tools. Basics can get you thru it. Take pictures of your timing marks with the crank aligned. It would still run being one or two teeth off. Make sure all your sensors are connected.
 
Before i reinstalled everything, i took the head the a very reliable machinist. He checked them cleaned them and checked again. He said the head had no warp whatsoever. So I then began to put it all back together. The car started and ran 4 miles before getting hot. but after it cooling and adding coolant. It wouldn't start again after.

Tried to pull my spark plugs wires today, they were melted in. Gonna rip them out and try somE new plug wires. also have a small leak of coolant from one of my turbo lines.
 
I got up the other morning to start my car and let it warm up for work. I started to walk back inside and the car just shut off like someone was inside and cut the key off. I got back in the car and tried to restart it and it made a huge backfire out the exhaust and acted like it had no compression at all. I waited till the next day and check for spark,it's good checked for fuel,it's good too.My car is a 6 bolt swapped 2g with a 1g head and CAS. So i borrowed a CAS off a buddy of mine installed it today and nothing has changed. What could my problem be? My cam gears still line up at TDC. any help would be gratefully appreciated,this is my DD LOL
 
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