Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[jayson427]

You need a power probe to check the pins on the ecu. Does your check engine light light up when the key is in the on position? How did you check for spark? Did you test the ohms on the coil? Because you can't just use a test light you need a meter. You need to check the pigtail harness for the alternator, knock and oil pressure switch to make sure there are no bad wires.

 

[Ttepfer]

Yea the light comes on but I was told it has a ctastrophic failure code from when the timing belt jumped off. And I check for spark by taking the plug wire out and holding it to the valve cover and had a friend turn the key. I did test the ohms according to how my Haynes book said and it was good. All sensor's and wires check out good. Even the ECTS.

Update: just tried and it almost seems like its in the first stages of starting. You can hear it trying so bad. Im so close to having this done!

 

[byebye_sti]

Sweet only in the 2gs huh . I grab dsm connectors from lkq here and in dorr I find some good stuff found some connectors parts and in good shape glad you resolved it.

Glad I can help that cts will be a problem either wiring or the sensor itself some get it mistaken for the ac sesnsor, so many check the wrong connector.

Exact same thing I did.

Question; does the AC switch matter AT ALL? I don't have AC in my car anyway, so if the wiring is brittle and broken off the connect for the AC temp switch, can I just leave it be? Or does its signal make it back to the ECU for start up?

 

[gofast63]

Sweet only in the 2gs huh . I grab dsm connectors from lkq here and in dorr I find some good stuff found some connectors parts and in good shape glad you resolved it.

Glad I can help that cts will be a problem either wiring or the sensor itself some get it mistaken for the ac sensor, so many check the wrong connector.

I would wouldn't doubt it. She started right up, after i adjusted my cas 180deg. I had to adjust my tps because she started at 5,000 rpms. PLUS, my throttle cable is sticking somewhere because i cant close throttle plate all the way. So i disconnected it so i could let her run and get some coolant in to the cylinder head before today's storm.

Just so everyone knows. The coolant temp sensor connector was the problem.

 

[motomattx]

A coolant sensor will cause a no start btw.

Post #4834. Your welcome. I dont believe in spoon feeding though, I do believe in the merits of learning. I will not give anyone a fish sandwich, I will teach you to fish though.

 

[horizontalkev]

I will not give anyone a fish sandwich, I will teach you to fish though.

Well put. Lol

 

[motomattx]

Lol, theres alot of information out there if anyone will listen to hints given to them by members who have been there and done that, but it should require at least some leg work by the seeker of the information, think of it as sweat equity.

 

[gofast63]

Lol, theres alot of information out there if anyone will listen to hints given to them by members who have been there and done that, but it should require at least some leg work by the seeker of the information, think of it as sweat equity.

Are you trying to imply I didn't do my research on this issue.

 

[motomattx]

What I am saying is that I led you to the problem several posts back, even though I didnt print out the entire trouble tree for testing your coolant temp sensor, I gave you the answer and expected you to find out how to test it from your own research.

 

[horizontalkev]

I tested my coolant temp sensor and at -2°F I got 13,500 Ohms. That's bad right? That can cause a no start?

 

[gofast63]

What I am saying is that I led you to the problem several posts back, even though I didnt print out the entire trouble tree for testing your coolant temp sensor, I gave you the answer and expected you to find out how to test it from your own research.

I do appreciate your response. Just about everything is new on this car. I just wasn't sure on this particular vehicle would cause a no start with the coolant sensor being disconnected. A lot of vehicles I come across still run with it disconnected. While I was looking around on the forms, there were a lot of yes and no. After your response, i was able to make my own connector(Since I was having a hard time finding one) with two 3/16 female butt connectors cut in half. So I could utilize the hole at each end of the connector. They side nice a snug over the connector pins. I was able to get two cylinders to firer. So that confirmed that was my issue. Of course, It was 180 out at that time. But like i posted before, I was lucky to find out that OReilly's still sale the connector that I needed.

 

[miguelmcv]

I do appreciate your response. Just about everything is new on this car. I just wasn't sure on this particular vehicle would cause a no start with the coolant sensor being disconnected. A lot of vehicles I come across still run with it disconnected. While I was looking around on the forms, there were a lot of yes and no. After your response, i was able to make my own connector(Since I was having a hard time finding one) with two 3/16 female butt connectors cut in half. So I could utilize the hole at each end of the connector. They side nice a snug over the connector pins. I was able to get two cylinders to firer. So that confirmed that was my issue. Of course, It was 180 out at that time. But like i posted before, I was lucky to find out that OReilly's still sale the connector that I needed.

Can you elaborate with the part number of the connector for future reference.

 

[Night devil]

Hey guys,
Bought another 1997 eclipse gsx with 92k miles on it. Drove it for a week then crankwalked. No problem, dropped in a freshly rebuilt 6 bolt shortblock with a stock rebuilt head. Shortblock internals are, ross pistons, eagle h beam rods, arp rod and main studs, clevitte bearing. Cometic mls hg and arp head studs.
The mods arent on my profile page but here they are.
Evo3 16g turbo, Vibrant fmic kit, tial bov vband, greddy timing belt, and areomotive fpr, and battery to the back. Nothing major.
Its not my first time doing 6 bolt swap, but this one i have no clue what is going on. It cranks cranks cranks and no start TILL i spray starter fluid and boom fires fine and drives great. Before it was backfiring in the exhaust and after changed spark plugs, does not anymore, if it does its low bang. (Only did it ones).
After two hours come back turn it on, it starts. Five hours later, have to spray to start her. Its -19 cel here.
Parts changed:
Spark plugs,
Spark plug wires
Coil pack
Even bought coil on plug
Took cas off my running 1g
Injectors with new seals
Ran the stock fpr
2 Ect sensor (1 used 1 new)
Starter
Alternator
Power transister
Battery with terminals,
Got a different throttle with all sensor, off my other 2g (working)
Changed the whole engine harness and so many ecus. Still same god damn issue.
Im getting spark, fuel, timing is right on the mark. I check it after every crank.
Compression is 169.169.165.167, cold test, full throttle.
If anyone has any other ideas please let me know, im lost after this point.
Oh and i changed the firing order and i already have a chipped ecu for 6 bolt swap setup.

Took head off again to check for bent valves, zero leaks.

Followed so many forums and no hope even this still no hope.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

Also read very detailed differences between talon and eclipses 2g ect sensors, talon is oval and eclipse kind of squareish, have the square ones and no start.
Any ideas will be very helpful please.
Thank you

I also made sure all parts are working since i tried them all on my other 6 bolt 2g

 

[Night devil]

Yes im, and injectors are spraying as well. Took out the rail with injectors to check, and they all sprayed.
Thanks for the quick reply

Changed fuel pump to 255 walbro rewired and filter during the time of 7 bolt engine.

 

[DSM_GSX01]

Do you have spark? Good spark.

 

[Night devil]

Ive seen so many swaps with starting issues.

I have read so many and alot of opinions, but still no difference

Do you have spark? Good spark.

At first, i was getting weak spark. That is why i changed the spark plugs with wires. I even took each spark plug and tried to crank, got it close to the manifold bolt and see the amount of spark. It was fairly good spark to get her started.
I'm heading to auto parts store now and try another ect sensor and see. Maybe the other one i got is defected.
Any more opinions will be helpful please
Thank you

 

[miliman13]

double check your firing order.
if mechanical timing, fuel ,and spark are present then i would focus on the order, since you have a swap.

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https://www.google.com/search?q=dsm...04-2g-4g63-question-firing-order.html;565;297

 

[gieri002]

What do you mean you have "a chipped ecu for 6 bolt swap setup"?

 

[Night devil]

double check your firing order.
if mechanical timing, fuel ,and spark are present then i would focus on the order, since you have a swap.

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https://www.google.com/search?q=dsm...04-2g-4g63-question-firing-order.html;565;297

Firing order should be good, since it runs good after the starter fluid.

What do you mean you have "a chipped ecu for 6 bolt swap setup"?

I sent my eprom to Jeff from dsmchip. He got it socketed and chipped it.

Another new coolant sensor try and samething. Im going to pull out the head tomorrow and check the headgasket, although it is new. Also test check the valves again.

Checked the valves they were all good. Replaced the headgasket, now everything is working great. No more spraying and she fires right on.

I guess a new headgasket was the issue.

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[gofast63]

Can you elaborate with the part number of the connector for future reference.

Yup, PT5750

 

[byebye_sti]

Okay, I am having an issue here, and I will give a bit of a background before I get into what's wrong so I can get you guys up to par.

I just purchased this GVR4 #760/1000 with the previous owner stating that it had trouble starting in the cold weather. When I picked the car up, it sat for about 30 mins in the frigid cold, and started up alright - a little struggle. Once warm, the car drove very nice besides a low rpm cruise stutter (which I assumed would be a plug/wire issue or boost leak). The car then sat for a few days due to me working non-stop. The car would not start in the cold, but once we had a warm day (50*) it fired right up and I took it for it's maiden drive. The car drove VERY nice. Much better than I expected.

Fast forward to a few days ago (1/8/14), I grab new plugs (BRP7ES), new Coolant Temp Sensor, Rotella T 10w30 (the car currently has 20w50 in it), adn some various wiring items.

I pulled the LICP off, and replaced the Knock-off Greddy BOV with a crushed DSM bov (known working from my track car). I did notice that the knockoff Greddy has two vacuum port nipples vs. the DSM only having one. I'll get to this more later.

I pulled the CTS and replaced it with the new one. I also noticed that the wiring was very brittle, so I cut back some of the wire, added some new wire in and added a female connection onto both wires and hooked them up to the CTS.

While I was in there, I noticed one of the black wires from the O2 sensor plug (harness side) was broken off. I decided to cut off the plugs (since it was unsalvagable) and hard wire the O2 sensor in for now.

I also noticed that the vacuum line routing was all over the place. The WG was T'd to the BOV and it was ran to a post-throttle body source. I left the BOV running to that same source, and moved the WG to the throttle body "P" source.

I also changed the plugs, and gapped them to .028.

Now, when I went to start the car, it sounded like it wanted to start right away, but would run like it had an enormous boost leak. I thought maybe I left the MAS unplugged, but that wasn't the case. So, I went back and did a boost leak test, but heard no leaks whatsoever. Didn't really hear much at all actually.

All back together again, I try to start it, and it just sounds like it's running on two cylinders. I check the settings on the SAFC, and they are the same as when I picked the car up. I couldn't find anything that I left unplugged, or anything that was leaking. The car does not want to idle by itself, but if I keep on the gas a bit, it will idle enough that I can roll the car around. Also, when I pulled the plugs, they were pretty drenched with fuel.

Thing's I've checked/tested;

CTS - tested good
ISC - tested good
TPS - tested good
MAS - don't know how to test this
Boost leaks - none
SAFC wiring - all hooked up correctly
SAFC Settings - the settings zero'd themself out, so I set the LO settings for [(450/680) - 1] x 100 ; still nothing

There are a few random wires near the CTS wiring that are the same colors as the CTS wiring. I am very confused with the wiring because the previous owner attempted to do a wire tuck.

Things I haven't done are; compression check, ECU caps check, timing check. It doesn't make any sense to me though because the car ran beautifully before.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Joe

 

[byebye_sti]

Okay, I am having an issue here, and I will give a bit of a background before I get into what's wrong so I can get you guys up to par.

I just purchased this GVR4 #760/1000 with the previous owner stating that it had trouble starting in the cold weather. When I picked the car up, it sat for about 30 mins in the frigid cold, and started up alright - a little struggle. Once warm, the car drove very nice besides a low rpm cruise stutter (which I assumed would be a plug/wire issue or boost leak). The car then sat for a few days due to me working non-stop. The car would not start in the cold, but once we had a warm day (50*) it fired right up and I took it for it's maiden drive. The car drove VERY nice. Much better than I expected.

The car has 680cc's.

Fast forward to a few days ago (1/8/14), I grab new plugs (BRP7ES), new Coolant Temp Sensor, Rotella T 10w30 (the car currently has 20w50 in it), adn some various wiring items.

I pulled the LICP off, and replaced the Knock-off Greddy BOV with a crushed DSM bov (known working from my track car). I did notice that the knockoff Greddy has two vacuum port nipples vs. the DSM only having one. I'll get to this more later.

I pulled the CTS and replaced it with the new one. I also noticed that the wiring was very brittle, so I cut back some of the wire, added some new wire in and added a female connection onto both wires and hooked them up to the CTS.

While I was in there, I noticed one of the black wires from the O2 sensor plug (harness side) was broken off. I decided to cut off the plugs (since it was unsalvagable) and hard wire the O2 sensor in for now.

I also noticed that the vacuum line routing was all over the place. The WG was T'd to the BOV and it was ran to a post-throttle body source. I left the BOV running to that same source, and moved the WG to the throttle body "P" source.

I also changed the plugs, and gapped them to .028.

Now, when I went to start the car, it sounded like it wanted to start right away, but would run like it had an enormous boost leak. I thought maybe I left the MAS unplugged, but that wasn't the case. So, I went back and did a boost leak test, but heard no leaks whatsoever. Didn't really hear much at all actually.

All back together again, I try to start it, and it just sounds like it's running on two cylinders. I check the settings on the SAFC, and they are the same as when I picked the car up. I couldn't find anything that I left unplugged, or anything that was leaking. The car does not want to idle by itself, but if I keep on the gas a bit, it will idle enough that I can roll the car around. Also, when I pulled the plugs, they were pretty drenched with fuel.

Thing's I've checked/tested;

CTS - tested good
ISC - tested good
TPS - tested good
MAS - don't know how to test this
Boost leaks - none
SAFC wiring - all hooked up correctly
SAFC Settings - the settings zero'd themself out, so I set the LO settings for [(450/680) - 1] x 100 ; still nothing

There are a few random wires near the CTS wiring that are the same colors as the CTS wiring. I am very confused with the wiring because the previous owner attempted to do a wire tuck.

Things I haven't done are; compression check, ECU caps check, timing check. It doesn't make any sense to me though because the car ran beautifully before.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Joe

Mods, please close one of my threads. Accidentally double posted.

 

[byebye_sti]

Would you guys mind giving me a hand?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/mai...ird-no-start-issue-after-cts-replacement.html

 

[miguelmcv]

Take some pics of where the bad wirings are, and check what cylinders is not getting sparck.

CAS can get damage with out any sighns of going bad.

If spark is the essue, check the transistor as well, it can be bad or a bad connection/wire.

 

[byebye_sti]

Take some pics of where the bad wirings are, and check what cylinders is not getting sparck.

Cps can get damage with out any sighns of going bad.

If spark is the essue, check the transistor as well, it can be bad or a bad connection/wire.

Copying/pasting from GVR4 forum.

What is the CPS?

It just seems weird that all of this would happen so randomly when the car was running so well the day before. The only wires I touched were the Coolant Temperaure Sensor wiring, and the O2 sensor wiring. Now the car sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders, or with a huge boost leak (doesn't respond to giving it gas - will barely hold idle at 1k-1.5k RPM.).


[quote name=transparentdsm]what injectors are you running? how is your fuel filter? could the injectors be clogged?

if you mixed up the yellow/green CTS wire with the a/c fan yellow/green wire then the car will not start. if you put the wires on the sensor backwards the car wont start. take a picture of what your working with and maybe i can help you. [/quote]

The car has 680cc's - sorry, I forgot to add that into the initial post. I have some 450's on order. Fuel filter is new.

It seems weird to me that the injectors would just randomly clog up, after it just ran great the night before I pulled it into the garage.

Pic Below - The two extended black wires run to the CTS - they were grouped together in the harness, so I assumed these were the corrrect ones. The car seems to want to start (with this wired as is) but just runs like it has a major leak. It barely responds to the gas pedal, and pours white smoke. If I let off the gas, it will die immediately.

The green wire right up front, is folded in half and taped off (looks like two wires because it was spliced into before (I don't know why))

[image]http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt36/byebye_sti/Mobile%20Uploads/DBF8A91D-218D-4C7F-A345-F4947B391D6E_zpsoxfnrz0t.jpg[/image]

As I said in the OP, the O2 sensor is now hardwired. Since I found the wire broken off the plug, I am not sure if it was being used before, when the car was running well? It had to of been though, right?

[image]http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt36/byebye_sti/Mobile%20Uploads/0D2F7975-DB75-4D1C-B751-88BD13FF44DC_zps0gxl0kkj.jpg[/image]

Look closely below, see that single spade male connector. What is this? I have two single male connectors in my Thermostat housing, but cannot find info on this one anywhere. Two temp gauges?

[image]http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt36/byebye_sti/Mobile%20Uploads/1A5FF258-83DD-4DD6-BF2B-BD9DD6F2C67D_zpsrepih6kg.jpg[/image]

See (below) the other down there (male spade connector broken off). This would be the Coolant Temp Gauge - according to diagrams I've read. So what is the other one?!

[image]http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt36/byebye_sti/Mobile%20Uploads/210657CC-3AB7-4979-A0E2-6F01FD8786FD_zpsqlo1ejuy.jpg[/image]

And a pic of the Cam Gears. It doesn't appear to be in time. What do you think?

[image]http://i595.photobucket.com/albums/tt36/byebye_sti/Mobile%20Uploads/2CF9241C-757B-47B5-85FA-D1AB3C252C56_zpsvqcypkx2.jpg[/image]