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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would go with OEM. Not worth the hassle to redo it with the location it's in if it fails.

Bummer, ok. Makes sense tho. I hate doing something more than once (but i'm really good at removing the trans now, LOL).

Also, VFAQs checklist suggests replacing the crank pulley on high mileage cars as well. How does mine look to you? There's a little bit of cracking, but its doesn't look misaligned or falling apart.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e3yubyz2io9jc4b/WP_20131228 1.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0qzf920danb7aft/WP_20131228.jpg
 
Bummer, ok. Makes sense tho. I hate doing something more than once (but i'm really good at removing the trans now, LOL).

Also, VFAQs checklist suggests replacing the crank pulley on high mileage cars as well. How does mine look to you? There's a little bit of cracking, but its doesn't look misaligned or falling apart.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e3yubyz2io9jc4b/WP_20131228 1.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0qzf920danb7aft/WP_20131228.jpg

If it's the original, which it looks like it is, replace it ASAP. I would replace it anyway. It doesn't look like it's in the best shape. Mine separated once before and I was lucky it didn't take anything else out. And again, I would go with OEM. You can't be cheap with replacing parts on these cars.
 
ok so im new to this site but recently i was driving my talon and while i was stopped at a gas station getting fuel my car started making a weird noise out of no where and seconds later shut off. Come to find out i had jumped time well i diden't really think much of it sense the car was only at an idle. So i get a tow home re-time it and go to start it and it starts right up but it wouldn't rev past 4000 rpm's. So i thought maybe bent valves or something right! So i take the head off and put new valves in it then put the head back on time it numerous time just to be sure and try and start it but its a no go the car turns over its getting fuel spark air good compression 160 psi across the board. ive tried good ecu's out of friends cars ive tried their cas different power transistors coils i now have individual coil packs timing is still dead on checked all the fuses put a brand new fuel pump in the other day that did nothing. the only way it half way tries to start is if i turn it over for a little the cylinders get wet with fuel and then i unplug the injectors and it starts to putt and try to start better with them unplugged this is weird to me but i cant figure out what is wrong with this thing!WTF :banghead::banghead:

Someone please help!!!!
 
yea ive gone through that list before and still nothing i dont know what the heck could be wrong with this thing it seems like ive tried everything! but thanks tho
 
yes i rebuilt the head as i did the last one before it had jumped time and no i dident they were brand new along with everything else in the head and i went with a evo III headgasket and the head was surfaced before the first time i built the head and i just checked the timing a little bit ago and still dead on all these mods to my head have only had about 200 miles on them and then all this happend
 
ok I got a 1992 eagle talon tsi awd and im having a problem with the charging system or something.it wont start unless you jump it off and if you turn anything on or hit the brakes it shuts off.and its like the battery has been remove when going to start it back up.nothing comes on until you jump it back off and will run until something is turned on or the fan trys to kick on.iv replaced the alternator,battery and battery cable ends and it is still doing it.i need to get it fixed cause I miss driving my baby LOL.:confused:
 
Check the battery cables too...I bought a car that had corrosion in the cable about 10" down the cable and it was hard as a rock. It didn't have flex at all, after I replaced the whole cable that issue went away for me.
 
Yeah it did the exact same thing and was getting frustrated until I tried to flex the cable and saw it was really stiff and corrosion dust came out of the cable. Kept cutting on it and it was like atleast 10" down or more.
 
And make sure battery connections are metal clean and tight along with replacing the cable.

And check the negative cables also, for they're the ones that are more important in this power loop since DC current flows Negative to Positive.
 
Check the battery cables too...I bought a car that had corrosion in the cable about 10" down the cable and it was hard as a rock. It didn't have flex at all, after I replaced the whole cable that issue went away for me.

I had the same thing happen with my 97 talon. I replaced the main ground to the starter and fixed the problem. the wire seemed fine but was broken under the insulation.
 
Hi everyone, i cant figure out why my car will not start. I just rebuilt the motor and still trying to get it to start for the first time. Here is what I've done so far. haha just remembered to do a boost leak test.....LOL Ill do it after i post this. Anyway...

-Compression: 150 across (dry)
-All sensors connected expect i broke the temp switch connector.
-Vacuum caps are cracked but i don't believe enough to prevent it from starting
-I have a 95 ecu so firing order is at 4-1-2-3
-Getting spark on all cylinders. i have a tester
-timing marks are perfect.
-fuel pressure is at 43psi. does spike to almost 50 i believe when trying to start.
-On the SAFC2 the hi&low throttle is zero out. cause I'm using the 450cc now
-my Throttle percentage is at 18% before i try to start it. wondering if that can cause it not to start
-I am getting fuel.
- New starter, its working great.
- tried starting fluid. sound like a gun went off.LOL

Im sure thats everything I've done so far. like i said I'm going to do the boost test now. i should post back in a few.

Thanks, Gary
 
I see you did a 6 bolt swap, did you keep the 2g Cylinder head?
If so, what CAS setup are you using?

No, I have the 1g head. I did a boost leak test and found a massive leak around the throttle body. I went ahead and fixed it and I'm going to see if there's any more leaks. Then see if she starts. I will have an up date around noon.l tomorrow.

Thanks,

Gary
 
Even with a pretty gnarly boost leak it should at least fire one off.

Is the ECU original? Does it pass visual inspection of the board(i.e no burnt caps etc)?

I'd also mess with the firing order.. couldn't hurt.
I've seen ass-backwards firing orders with inexplicable causes before. Sometimes things just happen to get swapped around over years of different owners. My first 2g had a firing order that was completely different from every FSM and Chilton I've read. Still have no idea how. I had to mark it in the book for the buyer because it was just so odd.

also your throttle percentage... is that something the AFC is telling you? That points to TPS. If anything would cause a super high idle not a no start (still need to adjust it though).
 
Even with a pretty gnarly boost leak it should at least fire one off.

Is the ECU original? Does it pass visual inspection of the board(i.e no burnt caps etc)?

I'd also mess with the firing order.. couldn't hurt.
I've seen ass-backwards firing orders with inexplicable causes before. Sometimes things just happen to get swapped around over years of different owners. My first 2g had a firing order that was completely different from every FSM and Chilton I've read. Still have no idea how. I had to mark it in the book for the buyer because it was just so odd.

also your throttle percentage... is that something the AFC is telling you? That points to TPS. If anything would cause a super high idle not a no start (still need to adjust it though).

The ecu was inspected before the first start. I'll check it again if the air leaks do not solve the problem. Yeah that the afc telling me the percentage. It's amazing how much you forget after not working on something for a year.LOL I should have an update shortly.
 
Is this the ECU coolant temp sensor (two wires)? If so, fix this and try again. It's a very important sensor for the ECU, but I don't think it'll cause a no start. But it's worth a shot.

Yeah its a two wire. I need to see if I can get a pig tale at advance auto.
 
Still can't get it to start unfortunately. On the boost leak tester it will only go to 6psi and my Wastegate is set to 12. I can't hear any leaks. Ecu looks good. I did play around what the spark plugs. I did find two orange wires disconnected ( broken apart ) behind the center console from the wire harness. But one has a black line on it and the other doesn't. Still trying to figure out what they are for.

Couldn't get the other photos to load for some reason
 

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