Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Brandon Mau]

Had the same thing happen to me, although mine is a 91, I had no spark bought new coil packs, transistor, plugs, wires, still nothing. Checked the CAS everything was in spec., swapped that one had a spare. Pulled my ECU didn't see or smell anything but I was out of things to check so I bought a cheap used ECU swapped it in and car started. Everything you checked was in spec. according to your list. Hope it helps you out so you don't waste money on what is not needed to buy.

 

[ArcaineGST]

Ohh man. Well that's encouraging and discouraging since it looks just fine. Would those two engine codes cause the system not to start. Would it work if I just cleared the codes?

 

[hunterls813]

help! When I bought my 91 GSX the previous owner said it needed a clutch, so he included it with the car it just needed to be installed, since I am not in America right now I had my wife take it to the shop (she had started it once a week like normal when you leave a car sit) to replace the clutch, so when it go to the shop they couldn't start it, so the guy at the shop told my wife today that " it has a bad ECM." Which with a bad ECM, our cars should still have a so called "dead mans mode" where it runs open loop so the car can still function ( i might have that backwards I know I've just been told that before )

help please before i spend $780 on a ECM

I could easily get one off craigslist, does it have to be a 91 GSX only or can i just get a 90-99 ECU since I intend on buying DSMlink in the next month or so?

 

[bw2277]

91 to 94 will work. 95 and newer is different. you could use a 1990 but your tach might not work and have to swap couple wires.

 

[Talon64]

Ok I am having an electrical issue with my recently purchased 95 eagle talon tsi. This is going to be my talon. It is auto and its in great mechanical shape. For starters I think I have a loose ground somewhere. When driving the lights flicker really fast and more noticeable when hitting the brakes. I am going to do the big 3 upgrade just so I know the grounds are good. Anyways back to the no start issue. Starter relay clicks and nothing else. Now when I turn the wheel a little bit the car starts up with no problem. So I have 2 issues with this car any help would be great. Also stole my battery from my eclipse and replaced the ground to the battery to the chassis. Also everything came back normal when I took it to advanced auto.

1) Lights Flickering
2) No start unless you move the steering wheel.

 

[nwBryce89]

you can only use certain ecu's. in mid '92 they changed the plug design on the ecu so anything after that wont work (if I remember correctly). the 1990 ecu will work but you have to swap pins 6 and 14.

you should use an ecu that is for the same trans as your car, so if your car is a manual make sure it is for a manual, and make sure it is federal emissions if you car is federal.

If your ecu goes bad more than likely it wont run. I have gone through numerous ecu's never had one run after they go bad.

part #'s
6/90-6/92 - MD166262 for awd manual
6/90-6/92 - MD166260 for fwd manual

6/90-6/92 - MD165531 awd auto
6/90-6/92 - MD165529 fwd auto

 

[97_4g63t]

Sounds to me like a loose or bare wire under the dash by the steering wheel. Maybe it has or had a turbo timer and they hacked the wiring?

 

[powpowdero]

Something to check, I noticed while working under the dash of my friends 90 Gst, that its missing what appears to be a little plastic or rubber plug at the top of the clutch pedal arm that if it were there would hit the unplugged switch. His car starts without pushing the clutch, so I'm figuring the previous owner unplugged it when that piece went missing. It may be different on the 91s, but I would check if that switch is being pressed.

 

[Talon64]

I looked under the dash real quick didn't see anything out of the ordinary. Only thing is the car has keyless entry. Now when I got the car not really knowing a lot about it. The glovebox is the best place to look. Well not sure if this was purchased with the car or someone installed it. Car was originally from New York and there was a book for lowjack. So? No clue where to look for that. No name on the keyless entry unless that's lowjack never had one before. Anyway I'll do some more searching around in this car. Any more ideas will be great.

 

[97_4g63t]

Once started it runs good though? Lights flicker when parked? If so do they stop flickering when you turn the steering wheel?

 

[jconcepcion4g63]

Your no start is obviously directly connected to the movement of the steering, i think we can all agree on that. If we agree on that then logically using common sense we can all agree that you would want to rigorously inspect all the moving parts of the steering for a loose wire coming in contact with it Or somethin.

Start at the steering wheel then work your way to the firewall. All those plastics are easy to remove. Your gonna have to slide ## seat back and get up in there under ## dash upside down with a flashlight n inspection mirror, keep turning the wheel back n forth so you can see what is happening. Try doing it with no lights in the dark to see if there is spark from something when you turn the wheel. Or listen for a spark noise when you turn the wheel. If you dont find anything do the same stuff for all moving parts of steering on other side of the firewall. If you dont find anything there just go pay someone at a shop who ASE cert. electrical and pay them an hours labor to diagnose it for you.

 

[Talon64]

Car starts fine and runs OK. Its stock so boost leaks every where. Nothing I can fix till hard piping comes in. Lights flicker at idle and while driving. More noticeable when I put a load say rear defroster and hitting brakes. No sound system in the car. No head unit so no draw there.

Also did some trouble shooting looked at the wire under dash. Looks clean but I will have to use multi meter for that. If I turn the key slow doesn't start. Turn it fast sometimes start or than slow. Also when it doesn't start relays click and kind of go crazy. As in click and buzz.

Last step tomorrow is looking at the starter wiring. Then weekend running new grounds in the engine bay.

 

[hunterls813]

Thanks guys for the help it was the ecu! Merry Xmas happy holidays

 

[DSM1G90]

Dang, where are you spending that much for a reman ECU ... a bit steep, if you ask me ..

 

[ArcaineGST]

So I cleared the check engine codes twice and tried restarting. Both times threw the P0335 CPS 'A' Circuit code. So it looks like i'm going to be removing a bunch of belts and pulleys now. Anyone have any removal and replacement tips on the CPS? Thanks!

After finally getting the lower timing belt cover off, here's what I found. I'll update when I get it replaced and running.

 

[Talon64]

OK well did little digging into the car again. Well no start once and awhile I think it can be the tumbler. Wires look good and no seemed unplugged at all even still has the foam around each connector. I would like to hear people opinions about my alternator. I bought the car and the guy said he replaced the alternator last year. Well I spray cleaner on the connector and left it up plug and started the car. No lights flickering. So turned the car off and plug the connector back into the alternator and wham the lights flickered. I am assuming the alternator has something wrong with it. Unless I still need to do more digging. Opinions will be great.

 

[goshjosh17]

I would check to make sure the PS bracket was not loose and making contact with the wiring on the alternator. Have had this issue before with same symptoms except the car would die while driving and no power at all.

 

[ArcaineGST]

UPDATE 1: So I missed something rather huge the first time. It was actually the balance shaft belt that snapped and destroyed the CPS. Glad I wasn't driving at highway speed.

So it looks like i'm going to be doing a BSE and timing belt replacement while it's all accessible. Is there anything else I should replace at the same time? Bought the car with 91k and just rolled over 183k with nothing replaced on that side since I've owned the car.

Thanks!

 

[synthetek]

Is there anything else I should replace at the same time? Bought the car with 91k and just rolled over 183k with nothing replaced on that side since I've owned the car.

Thanks!

Water Pump and all timing components, tensioner, pulleys, etc.. maybe cam seals if you see any signs of leaks.

 

[93 GSX TURBO]

UPDATE 1: So I missed something rather huge the first time. It was actually the balance shaft belt that snapped and destroyed the CPS. Glad I wasn't driving at highway speed.

So it looks like i'm going to be doing a BSE and timing belt replacement while it's all accessible. Is there anything else I should replace at the same time? Bought the car with 91k and just rolled over 183k with nothing replaced on that side since I've owned the car.

Thanks!

Since your in there just go ahead and replace all the seals. Spend a little more and purchase the OEM seals.

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

UPDATE 1: So I missed something rather huge the first time. It was actually the balance shaft belt that snapped and destroyed the CPS. Glad I wasn't driving at highway speed.

So it looks like i'm going to be doing a BSE and timing belt replacement while it's all accessible. Is there anything else I should replace at the same time? Bought the car with 91k and just rolled over 183k with nothing replaced on that side since I've owned the car.

Thanks!

So you're saying that you bought the car with 91k miles on it and not knowing whether or not the timing belt and balance shaft belt have been replaced and drove it another 91k+ miles without changing them at all??? Unbelievable!!

 

[ArcaineGST]

So you're saying that you bought the car with 91k miles on it and not knowing whether or not the timing belt and balance shaft belt have been replaced and drove it another 91k+ miles without changing them at all??? Unbelievable!!

No, no. Sorry for the confusion. Dealership I bought the car from had done all belts before I bought the car (balance, timing, accessory).

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

Oh ok. But still, 91k+ miles without replacing those belts is just asking for trouble! You don't know how lucky you got off.

 

[ArcaineGST]

Water Pump and all timing components, tensioner, pulleys, etc.. maybe cam seals if you see any signs of leaks.

Since your in there just go ahead and replace all the seals. Spend a little more and purchase the OEM seals.

Ok cool. Just read the VFAQ 2g timing belt, and BSE pages. Have you guys heard anything good or bad about aftermarket water pumps? Or should I treat this like everything else and just go OEM? Cause OEM is around 3x the cost. Is a water pump a water pump? Or not even close, go with OEM?

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

Ok cool. Just read the VFAQ 2g timing belt, and BSE pages. Have you guys heard anything good or bad about aftermarket water pumps? Or should I treat this like everything else and just go OEM? Cause OEM is around 3x the cost. Is a water pump a water pump? Or not even close, go with OEM?

I would go with OEM. Not worth the hassle to redo it with the location it's in if it fails.