Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Blu90GST]

If you have spark, compression, and fuel there's no reason it shouldn't start. Is your cas out 180%? That's the only thing I could think of.

 

[Mischif]

Your firing order is wrong. Your outside cylinders move up and down together, same for your inside cylinders. So its impossible for cylinder 1 to be on combustion stroke right after 4 has its combustion stroke. Same things goes for cylinder 3, impossible for it to be on a combustion stroke after 2 has its combustion stroke.

 

[gofast63]

Your firing order is wrong. Your outside cylinders move up and down together, same for your inside cylinders. So its impossible for cylinder 1 to be on combustion stroke right after 4 has its combustion stroke. Same things goes for cylinder 3, impossible for it to be on a combustion stroke after 2 has its combustion stroke.

Then what is the firing order?

 

[Mischif]

1342

 

[Chad1993]

Did it fix it?

 

[Mischif]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Don't know why it loaded upside down.

 

[gofast63]

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Don't know why it loaded upside down.

Thats how I have my spark plug wires connected to my coil packs. Still no start. I will be going to the junk yard tomorrow for a new temp switch connector

Did it fix it?

No.

1342

When I said firing order I ment the spark plug wiring. Sorry.

How does the coolant sensor affect the engine from starting?

 

[motomattx]

Seriously!???

Yes, it happens quite often. A sensor not reading right will cause the car to be extremely rich or extremely lean during cranking.

 

[gofast63]

Yes, it happens quite often. A sensor not reading right will cause the car to be extremely rich or extremely lean during cranking.

But wouldn't you at least hear it trying to start. Because Im still getting nothing. I even try'd rotating my CAS 180deg.

 

[92AWDHX40]

. Does the car eventually start, or act like it's trying to start? Is the problem especially bad after the car has sat overnight, or on a cold day? This is likely your ECT (Coolant Temperature Sensor). The ECT is the first sensor the ECU looks at when you start your car. The ECU asks it "How cold is it outside today?" and the Temp Sensor responds. The ECU takes that information and decides how much fuel to send to the injectors. If your ECT is faulty, the ECU will either get an incorrect reading back, or no reading at all, and will stay in open-loop, dumping fuel into your cylinders, making your car excessively hard (or impossible in some cases) to start.

The Coolant Temp Sensor is located on your thermostat housing, towards the bottom, on the left/front. It is a two-prong male connector (one prong on a 2g). Inspect the wires going to the sensor first – there is a lot of heat down there, and wires can become brittle and snap off of the connectors due to age and extreme temperatures. The following information demonstrates how to check the operation of the ECT on a 1g. For 2g, refer to FSM.

Testing the Coolant Temperature Sensor on a 1g:

Unplug the black plastic clip and turn the key ON (do not start the car). Connect the negative probe of your DVOM to a good ground on the car, and the positive to one of the plugs in the clip. With key ON you should see approx. 4.5-4.9 volts. You may have to try both of the plugs until you find the one that sees voltage – one sees voltage and the other does not.

Assuming this checks out okay (99% of the time it will), we will now move on to resistance. Basically speaking, as the temperature of the coolant INcreases, the resistance value will DEcrease.

With the engine cold and the sensor unplugged, turn your DVOM to resistance (ohms) and connect the probes to each of the two prongs on the sensor. The prongs on the ECT will form a sort of "T" shape: kind of like this: | \

With engine cold, resistance should read somewhere between 2,200 to 2,700 ohms (if it's a little higher, it is due to extremely cold ambient temperatures. Somewhere close to this range is okay though).

The next step in this test would normally involve starting the car and getting it up to operating temperature. However, if the car will not start at all (probably the case if you're reading this), you can replicate this part of the test in a heated dish of water. See below for instructions and necessary water temperatures. If you can get the car to start, plug the sensor back in and start the car now. Get the engine up to operating temperature, and turn it back off. Unplug the sensor again, and repeat the resistance test. (BE CAREFUL, it is VERY HOT down there now). The resistance should now read approx 280 to 350 ohms.

If the car will not start at all, or if you can't quite reach the sensor, you can unbolt the sensor unit and reproduce the testing procedure with a dish of water. If you do this, have a rag or bolt handy to plug the hole you make by removing the sensor -- lots of coolant will come out. You can drain the coolant first if you want to avoid this.

Put the bottom of the sensor (round, gold metal part) into a dish of room temp water (50-80*) and measure resistance. Then, heat the water to approx. 180-200* (not quite boiling), and repeat, using the same resistance values stated above.

If resistance is not within specs, replace the sensor.

Related resistance specs for 2g Turbo engine:

Cold (68*F): 2.1 - 2.7 kOhms
Hot (176*F): 0.26 - 0.36 kOhms

Testing procedure is similar for 2gs. Refer to FSM for complete testing procedure.


Related Images:
Coolant Temp Sensor on a 1990 GSX Circled in Picture (Pay no attention to the letters. But if you're interested, "A" is the Coolant Temp Fan Switch for the A/C, and "C" is the Temp Gauge Sending

 

[gofast63]

I didn't even come across this during my searches. Thanks 92 turbo. I'm still currently looking for a connector for it on criagslist. Its a two wire connector. I'm thinking about soldering it for a temporary fix to see if i can get it to start. Thats if i have no luck finding a connector of course.( last resort )

That should be my problem considering that my spark plugs where wet with fuel.

 

[gofast63]

You need a cts connector right? I grab them from the salvage yard.

MAybe I can help.

I would appreciate it. The picture below is the one I'm in need of. I hacked up the one i had in hopes of being able to run new wires through it. What do you want for it?

-Gary

 

[byebye_sti]

. Does the car eventually start, or act like it’s trying to start? Is the problem especially bad after the car has sat overnight, or on a cold day? This is likely your ECT (Coolant Temperature Sensor).

I am diagnosing this exact issue right now and this is where all clue lead.

I'm so happy I stumbled across your post.

+1!

 

[gofast63]

That can be a problem they do brake, I grab some from the junk yard I haven't seen any autostore that carry anything like that.

Come to find out OReilly's sales them for $30.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Sweet only in the 2gs huh . I grab dsm connectors from lkq here and in dorr I find some good stuff found some connectors parts and in good shape glad you resolved it.

Glad I can help that cts will be a problem either wiring or the sensor itself some get it mistaken for the ac sesnsor, so many check the wrong connector.

 

[Savagestryke]

lost spark again on 1.8 94 eagle talon replaced distributor to fix problem last time but evidently this was not the root cause of problem as it is back again timing belt is new and installed correctly do not want to replace distributor again till i eliminate any other cause for no spark ecm looks good no leaky capacitors or burn spots on board have seen mention of an asd (auto shut down) relay is their another place they put this thing besides the firewall behind drivers side strut tower it's function is to kill fuel, spark, and injector spray tested the coil resistance on primary and secondary they are in spec seems like the power transistor got fried so before my son buys another distributor for his 94 eagle talon have been to the Mitsubishi dealer and their lead mechanic was no help as his manuals for that year were missing so we are having lots of fun with his first project becoming a night mare this is only one of 3 DSM i own the other two are 90 laser and 93 laser he chose my eagle to be his first car this is a car i picked up at a local mechanics shop for $200.00 with a blown head-gasket it leaked coolant on the back corner so towed it home and before i took it a part i had to see what it had in it so filled up the coolant and pegged the speed o to 145 mph then took off the head 5 speed was good but this no spark is kicking my but again and cant afford $200.00 every 3 months on a new distributor sorry such long post but this thin has really got me stumped he has bought a used engine to put in it because the original engine lost compression on number 3 cylinder do to stuck rings in that cylinder no head gasket problem as cylinder 2 and 4 on that engine at 190 compression i really hate electrical problems when there is so little information available on them or i'm just not wording my questions correctly to get the answers i need thanks for any help and patiens with the reading


has anyone got any experience with putting the 2.0 head on the 1.8 bottom end if yes what kinds of head aches are involved in this and are the gains worth it just asking as this will be my sons next project for his talon so if anyone has personal experience with this would love some input before he gets too far into it thanks for your time

 

[Ttepfer]

Hey everyone. I bought a 1995 eagle talon esi that jumped time and belt all the valves. I towed the car home. Replaced all the valves, new timing belt and tensioner, new water pump, valve seals, head gasket, everything that was needed for the rebuilding process. Well I put the head back on and connected everything back the way it was supposed to be. Triple checked timing, made sure all sensors are good. Itll turn over and crank but wont start. Im out of options. It's getting spark, getting fuel, in time. All the sensors are good. Idk what to do or check now. I can post o video of what it's doing if needed.

The car sat for 2years that I know of. The gas IS good.

 

[92AWDHX40]

did you do a compression test? spark fuel, you say is good but what are your compression numbers never you still never know, I had good timing too but I still my valves were still off just a bit, and just enough for a no start.

 

[Ttepfer]

I cant remember the compression numbers off hand but they checked out good. I also check the asd relay, crank/cam sensor and those are good. It seems like it just doesn't want to run.

 

[92AWDHX40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[Ttepfer]

That was amazingly helpful! From what im reading its the ECTS. Its cranking and trying. Just needs and extra "push" so that very well could be it! I'll respond asap and let y'all know. Thanks!!

Whats the best way to test it? The wright up is for a 1g. Or would it be the same?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Im not sure if its the same but similar to testing that sensor the readings should be the same but don't hold me too it, I never tested one myself, I just buy new ones when I doubt.

 

[Spooled420a]

Would also check the ECU as they are know to go bad in the 95s n/ts.

 

[Ttepfer]

Yea ill just get a new one just to play it safe and ill be sure to check ecu. A buddy of mine has a 98 gs automatica. Could I use his ecu just to see what happens or no? I know the ecus 's are very touchy about what year car they're ment for.

 

[Spooled420a]

~if i remember correctly i think its 95-96 only.