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Single digit Auto 1g street/strip build

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Please don't use ARP manifold to turbo bolts, they will break and cause you many headaches after minimal heat cycling.

Well that would suck. A local friend uses them without an issue from FFWD. They have instructions to make sure nothing bad happens... http://www.ffwdconnection.com/lanotattachments/download/file/id/2/store/1/

I could see that happening with the stainless steel ARP bolts, but i think it should be fine with the chromoly bolts I have with the suggested lub & clean threads.
 
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I will be bringing the car home from paint Tuesday or Wednesday! I took the following week off work to get major headway done on it.

Curt Brown 2g cylinder head
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Grabbed some l19's for the OEM MLS off extreme psi. I believe they're the only distributor that actually carries them right now. No luck at turn14 or motovicity.
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...and a forward facing filter housing with outlets for my turbo feed line, oil pressure gauge, and oil pressure dummy switch.
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Paint is all finished. This is the result before a little wet sanding that will get done tomorrow to clean up any little issues. It looks absolutely stunning.

This is the darkest black you can possibly paint a car. There are zero colors mixed in it. The clear also has some black in it (notice the vin tag in the door jam which got cleared over).

Car comes home Tuesday.

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Had to get new OEM rear bumper brackets. Aside from every bolt breaking, they also disintegrated when took them off the bumper LOL.

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I really can't get over how much better she looks now! I'm not too surprised about those brackets, I think every 1g probably needs them. Ha
 
I really can't get over how much better she looks now! I'm not too surprised about those brackets, I think every 1g probably needs them. Ha
I figured it's normal seeing as the rest of the car was pretty solid haha.

Thanks man. Countless hours of prep work to get it nice. Can't wait to get it back home and get started on things!
 
Please take it from Austin and I and DON'T use the ARP's for the manifold to turbo.....every one of mine broke (got them from FFWD and followed the instructions). Cheapo bolts I got from the local hardware store held up better.
 
There's a local who has been running those ARP bolts fine. It's the stainless ones that break. He's used them for several thousand miles. HOWEVER what he did do, was use the OEM sprung washers instead of the flat washers provided. Two of them for each bolt, just like the stock bolts.
 
There's a local who has been running those ARP bolts fine. It's the stainless ones that break. He's used them for several thousand miles. HOWEVER what he did do, was use the OEM sprung washers instead of the flat washers provided. Two of them for each bolt, just like the stock bolts.

There might be something to that then because every arp bolt ive seen used has broke and it didnt look like any fun drilling them out either.
 
I'm running them currently and will update on how they hold up without washers. If they snap off in the housing, it's just a junk eBay housing anyway and will go OEM bolts, OEM housing.
 
Thanks guys, I'll stick with OEM for the bolts.


If you ever want it painted down the road, let me know!

Scott, the paint work looks amazing, I'm truly jealous. Also, I'm glad to see you are going with OEM hardware on the turbo as well. Make sure you use two of the OEM washers per bolt too. This should stop any thread damage from bottoming out and also keep the preload on the fastener as the manifold and turbine housing go through their thermal growth cycles.
 
Paint looks beautiful!
Thank you!

Yes, the paint and build both look amazing. Love the SM catch-can! :D
Thanks sir. His catch cans looked pretty good and he was able to custom make it for my needs.

Super nice man, glad to see you back in a Dsm :hellyeah:sure its gonna be wicked.
Should be fun! Thanks!

Scott, the paint work looks amazing, I'm truly jealous. Also, I'm glad to see you are going with OEM hardware on the turbo as well. Make sure you use two of the OEM washers per bolt too. This should stop any thread damage from bottoming out and also keep the preload on the fastener as the manifold and turbine housing go through their thermal growth cycles.
Thank you TJ. I will be sure to get two washers per bolt, thanks for the advice :)

Damn, that car does look beautiful... All nice and smooth and shiny and stuff! :thumb:
Thanks! I'm all nervous about keeping it nice now haha.

Damn that's nice im prepping for next year paint should turn out good that's all I want out of it.
Very cool. Good luck!
 
Brought the car home last night and finally in the garage to get some work done. I have 9 days off starting tomorrow so i'm hoping to get a lot accomplished.

Things i'm hoping to get done:
Clean the garage
Get the rear sub frame and rear suspension stuff all done
Remove motor and get the block stripped down
Trim paint the engine bay
?Build the trans/get diff out for welding

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Subframe out
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Jay racing toe eliminator, maximal control arms, boostx subframe bushings, bullfab rear mustache bar, cleaned & painted. Took a lot longer than I expected LOL.

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I also got a set of black leather front/rear seats in a trade. I'm most likely going to run kirkeys in the front, so i'll at least keep the rears.

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Took the trans out first. Couldn't get the damn passenger axle to pop out. Tried the hose clamp around the cup trick as wel but no dice.

I normally would have just removed the trans & motor together... however I wanted to see how it was just removing the trans should I need to remove it for whatever reason at a later date.

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Tomorrow the motor comes out to strip the block bare for building.
 
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