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1992 TSI Auto swapped street/strip build

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-red97rum-

20+ Year Contributor
1,099
42
Aug 29, 2002
Upland, California
I've never actually posted a build thread on my car, but I've always wanted to. I've been keeping a thread going on my local forum on the progress over the past few years. So anyway, here it goes.

I bought this particular 1G back around 2008, before then I had been out of the DSM game for a few years. I still had a 1990 TSI broke down in the back yard, but it was pretty much a shell that had been picked apart by my friends and I. Most of this will be copied and pasted from my thread over on Los Angeles Dsm - Eclipse - Talon -

This is from Feb, 2011 when the automatic swap journey began:

Well I've managed to break 3 tranny's in about a years time.

Here's some good carnage shots of a TRE trans that lost 4th gear:
deadtre4th2.jpg


deadtre4th1.jpg


deadtre4th.jpg


So a few weeks ago I picked up another 1992 AWD Talon but this one's automatic. The plan is to swap some certain parts off this car into my red Talon. I wonder what that might be?? :twisted:

It's a complete car and it even runs really well. The short block is a nt 6 bolt unfortunately but is in great shape. The car had 180+psi compression across all 4 cylinders. I peeped into the spark plug holes and was able to make out the numbers/letters on the tops of the pistons: 63D, no "T" on the end, which explains the high compression. Oh well, no worries, I bought the car for the drivetrain anyway. I'm probably going to pull the NT pistons out, hone the cylinders, throw in some used turbo pistons/rods w/arp rod bolts, new rings and wrap it up in plastic and keep it for a spare. I Found receipts in the glove box for a completely rebuilt head with new valves, valve job, re-surface and stem seals. Another spare I guess LOL. :D The same mechanic also put in a used short block because of a broken timing belt. So I'm pretty sure he's the jerkoff that put in the NT short block. :roll:

Onto the drivetrain. The TCU is dead and won't even blink out codes on the multimeter so the trans is stuck in limp mode. I plan on running the Kiggly manumatic mod in order to shift manually with a ratchet shifter anyway so that's no big deal. I just gotta wire up the tranny to shift manually and take it out for a test drive. I just want to make sure the tranny is in good working condition before I go through the trouble of pulling everything for the swap. I have a feeling it's fine (fingers crossed). The guy I bought it from said it always worked great but after it sat for a year or so the next time he tried to drive it the tranny was in limp mode. Planning on putting in the IPT end clutch kit, translab shift kit, doing kiggly manumatic mod and maybe having the converter restalled by a local shop.

Here's some pictures of the auto car and a couple shots of the journey to go pick it up. The car was in Big Bear and if you didn't know, the 330 is closed because half the freakin mountain washed away. I used my buddy's car trailer and we had to drive up the 18 through Lake Arrowhead and then over to Big Bear. This was on a Sunday too so traffic was pretty shitty because of all the snowboarder/skiers trying to make it down the mountain. We ended up taking the 38 back down as it's not so narrow and curvy. It took us about 4 hours but I finally got it home, paid $800 for the whole car and put $60 in fuel in the truck.

frontendb.jpg


trucktrailer.jpg


trucktrailer1.jpg


trucktrailer1.jpg


thedrive.jpg


autoshifter.jpg


odometery.jpg


enginebay.jpg


rearr.jpg


reardrivers.jpg


interiorms.jpg
 
From March, 2011:

Thought I'd update this. I started making some progress on the auto swap.

What I've got done so far:
Pulled the busted 5 speed out of my car.
Pulled the auto trans and tcase out of the auto car.
Pulled the motor mounts off the engine in the auto car.
Installed the auto motor mounts onto the engine in my car.
Made a "manumatic" harness to bypass the TCU.

What's left to do:
Remove 5 speed shifter and cables from my car.
Mount my hurst ratchet shifter and run the cable.
Mount trans cooler.
Install IPT end clutch kit.
Install trans and tcase (waiting for flywheel & converter bolts).
Swap rear diff's.
Get nitrous set up :D

Some goodies ready to put in:
autoparts.jpg



I dropped the torque converter off today to be restalled, here's the guts:
converter1.jpg


converter.jpg


Installed the end clutch kit I picked up from IPT today. Was pretty easy, the only tough part was getting the return spring snap ring back on. The stock end clutch disks were all in pretty decent shape and only a couple of the steel plates were slightly warped. The inner seal on the piston had quite a bit of wear..

Nothing too exciting about the install:
newendclutchessoaking.jpg


endclutchalmostdone.jpg


The end clutch all cleaned and reassembled:
endclutchassembled.jpg


Couldn't do much to the car this weekend thanks to the freakin rain. :(


Picked up the converter yesterday and stuck it in the transmission, not bad for $125.
coverterdone.jpg


converterwbolts.jpg


arpconverterbolts.jpg


converterintrans.jpg
 
From the end of March, 2011:

Update - Auto trans in!

Made a little progress this past weekend with the swap. Pulled out the 5 speed shifter and cables, mounted the hurst ratchet shifter and new cable. Had to chop up the 5 speed shifter base a little and drill a couple new holes to mount the hurst. I just kept it simple and used nuts/bolts from my spare dsm bolt can. :)

Here's some pictures:

New holes drilled in the base:
imag0097d.jpg


Shifter bolted up to the base:
imag0100h.jpg


Getting the shifter bolted in the car:
imag0103q.jpg


Shifter bolted in. I ended up having to trim a tiny off the back of the shifter to clear the ebrake assembly.
imag0110f.jpg


All done. I used the stock 5 speed shifter boot:
finishedinstall.jpg


In park:
imag0129ce.jpg


In ratchet shift position:
imag0130e.jpg


imag0172wr.jpg



Some shots of putting in the trans:
imag0201d.jpg


Heavy ass auto tranny:
transontheground.jpg


converterincart.jpg


Hoisting the trans up:
liftingtransin.jpg


Lining up the bell housing to the block:
puttingtransin.jpg


All bolted in:
transin.jpg


Shifter cable mounted and adjusted:
shiftercablemounted.jpg




May 2011:
So a small update on the car.. The auto swap worked out well after I replaced the drivers side axle seal. I also cut up the stock A/C compressor bracket so I could use it to space the axle carrier bearing the appropriate distance from the block - I was eyeballing it before with washers.. never was a problem, but was always ghetto rigged in the back of my mind.

I got to enjoy the car for a few weeks with the new auto setup but I still hadn't fixed my head gasket issue and was still pushing coolant. So did park it and start tearing her down to fix the HG? Hell no. I took that bi*** to the track and cranked up the boost :rolleyes:. That didn't work out too well because I ended up destroying what was left of my already damaged HG in the process LOL. Props to Hugo for towing my shit home that day :drinkers:

I finally started working on the car and I pulled the head off yesterday. Hopefully I'll be able to drop the head at the machine shop for pressure testing and resurfacing tomorrow and possibly pick it up Sat. Here's a couple pics from my phone:

Cams out of the head getting ready to pull it:
headoncar.jpg


Closer shot of the head and the pretty crower valvetrain LOL:
headnocams.jpg


Head is off and I wiped off the tops of the pistons. These things don't build up much carbon running E85. This engine maybe saw about 800-900 miles of pump gas and has been an E85 guzzler ever since, I think this motor has about 6-7k on it since I put it in.
shortblock.jpg



Now for the new mods.. You know I can't take it this far down and not upgrade shit at the same time! I picked up a holset HX40 with a BEP housing. I'm going to re-do my o2 housing and try to make it as close to 3" as I can because the hx40 outlet is bigger than your standard 2.5" tubular O2 housing. Thinking about putting in a 3" cut out right after the O2 housing if I can get it to fit. Probably going to run the same 2g exhaust manifold and dump the wastegate to the atmosphere. Going to run -6AN line from the tank all the way to my bosch pump on the firewall and switch to a little civic battery mounted down on the k member. Next thing I really need to pick up is a nitrous kit for the launch.
 
May, 2011 continued:

I got the head back on this weekend. It pressure tested fine and I had it resurfaced as smooth as they could get it. I went with a MLS gasket and lightly dusted it with copper spray sealant. L19's torqued down to 95ft. lbs. I'm going to let it heat cycle a couple times times then pull the valve cover and re-torque them to 105.

Head back on and torqued down:
headtorqued.jpg


L19 studs:
65121079.jpg


Cams back in and cam gears bolted up.
camsin.jpg


FedEx man dropped off a present for me today..
nxkit.jpg


So she's all back together. I fired it up last night, let her warm up and all seems well, except I found a small fuel leak at the fitting feeding my inline bosch pump.. should be an easy fix. Going to retorque the head today after work and start beating on it. I put the HX35 back on as I want to make a new O2 housing for the HX40, also want to upgrade my exhaust from a 2.5" to 3" and install the nitrous kit.

backtogether.jpg


nxkit1.jpg


Laughing gas is in and damn.. it works well. :D Spraying a 50 shot and it's really fat so I need to throw in a smaller fuel jet. When I spray it as is, the wideband pegs full rich at 10:1, even pig rich it builds boost on the torque converter almost instantly. It works well in 2nd and 3rd gear too at 30psi of boost. I have a feeling I'm going to like this nitrous stuff :wink:

The feed line that came with the kit was a little too long so I had to loop it, but no big deal.
bottlelines.jpg


Blow down hose routed out of the car through a -8an bulkhead fitting.. gotta keep it legit for the track.
blowdown.jpg


Where I mounted the solenoids and the fuel feed off the AFPR.
protonnoids.jpg


The NX Shark nozzle mounted in the throttle body elbow:
nozzle.jpg


Master arm switch and the "oh shit" button for those "just in case" situations:
switches2.jpg


switchesd.jpg


I have the nitrous for the launch controled using the FPS ground within Jackal. Have the juice set to spray when > 99% tps, > 2250 rpm and < 3500 rpm. So for the launch it's pretty much automated. Just flip the master arm switch and floor it. The momentary button on the console is in case I want to give it a little shot up top.

I was able to enjoy the car this way for a little over a year before the motor blew. Got the car to 6.96@103mph in the 1/8th and 10.96@126 in the 1/4 with the BEP/HX35 turbo. I literally made over a 100 passes at the local 1/8th and 1/4 mile tracks, not to mention tons of street abuse. In the end, I put an eagle rod through the block of that motor. Upon tearing it down, all the wiseco pistons were cracked around the wrist pins. One piston finally came apart and the small end of the rod jackhammered through the side of the block.

July 2012:

Looks like my built motor died a horrible death due to the wrist pin issue some of the early production wiseco pistons were known to have. Basically looks like the piston came apart and then the rod smashed out of the block. And that NEVER ends well. Time for some carnage pics. Ouch! 8)

Front of the block:
imag1283.jpg


imag1280.jpg


Rear of the block:
imag1020v.jpg


That kind of shit right there ^ leads to this type shit right here:
imag1284.jpg


Block was totally trashed (obviously) and 2 of the 3 remaining pistons have stress cracks around the wristpin "retaining" area. The crank, rods bearings and main bearings all looked good. So did the cylinders, the car rarely ever registered knock (e85) and there aren't any indications of detonation on the piston crowns or the spark plugs. The only thing I can think is the piston failed? I was able to salvage 2 out of the 4 eagle rods, which kind of pisses me off, but it is what it is. Crank actually looks good but I wouldn't think of running it until it was completely checked over by my machine shop.

Well I pulled the head and thankfully everything appeared to be alright. Plan was to get by with just a resurface and throw it back on the new motor, well no such luck. Had three exhaust valves that weren't sealing on the number 1 and number 4 cylinders. Well, at least that explains why my motor had such low compression before it died. I dropped the head off at the machine shop last weekend for a valve job, surfacing, cleaning and pressure test. Come to find out the exhaust valve guides are all pretty shot so it's getting a new set of guides too.

On to the "new" motor... I bought Hugo's (boosting_laser) spare 6 bolt long block for $100 and I plan on running the piss out of it until it dies. Hopefully it will stay together long enough to have some fun with it.

Progress/plans for the motor so far:

  • Pulled head, cleaned deck
    *Going to run a MLS with my L19 head studs to seal it up
    *Cylinders and pistons look to be in great shape, thanks Hugo

    Pulled two rod caps to check the rod bearings and they look great, no excessive wear or scoring.

    Oil pump gears were galling the hell out of the case so I used the pump/case from my motor since it's in good shape and 100% oem. Took it apart and cleaned the hell out of it in case there was any trash from the failure.

    Used oem water pump off my dead motor. Only had about 10,000 miles on it so it'll work fine.

    Same deal with the timing components, all oem and from my dead motor. Picked up a new gates timing belt for $26 from rockauto.

    Bought a lower gasket set from the parts dinosaur and installed the oil pump w/new seals, water pump and a new rear main seal.

What's left to do:


  • Pay for the machine work to the head (around $200).

    Install the head with the new MLS and L19's

    Install cams and timing components

    My oil pan was destroyed when the motor blew so I need to weld a new -12 bung to the pan for my oil return.

    Bolt on my Forrester intake manifold and all the other peripheries and put it back in the car!

    I'm also planning on doing a minor wire tuck/harness relocation while the motor's out.

    Gotta wire up my Crane Fireball ignition

    Make a bracket and reloacte my coil pack and ignition module.

    Possibly going to relocate my battery to the trunk with a kill switch in trunk key hole.

Ehh, lots of work left to do and I'm sure I'm leaving lots of stuff out. There will be lots of beer to consume and cuss words to scream along the way haha

Some parts waiting to be installed:

imag1310.jpg


Edit: Minus the A1000 pump, I just sold that the other day. I'm running a dual fuel pump setup already.
 
Last edited:
August 2012:

Well I've been making some progress the past couple weeks. I just got my head out of the machine shop and I'm getting ready to drop in on the short block. Complete valvejob, all new guides, new stem seals, resurfaced and pressure tested.

Stock sized stainless steel valves, crower srpings/retainers:
imag1418.jpg


imag1419.jpg


imag1420.jpg


imag1421.jpg


Stock 6 bolt short block with 2g oil pickup. In case you didn't know, the 2g oil pickup tube works fine on a 6 bolt and it doesn't have that stupid bracket that bolts to the stock main bolt:

shortblock.jpg



Came across a nice deal on a freshly rebuilt 6 blade hx40 through a friend of mine this past sunday 8-12-2012. Picked up this jewel for $200, no way I could pass up that deal:

hx40.jpg


imag1417.jpg


Glued the oil pan back on and sprayed on a quick coat of some fresh black paint. The pan was a little scratched up so this should keep it from rusting:

imag1424j.jpg


Stock as stock can be aside from deleted balance shafts, we'll see what happens. New rear main seal, new front crank seal, oem water pump off my blown motor and oem front case/oil pump off my old motor. Hopefully I can get at least a few 10 second passes out of her :) .
imag1423a.jpg


A little update on my stuff:

Got the HX40 all bolted up in the BEP turbine housing so it's ready to go.

Got a -12AN fitting welded to my oil pan and I drilled out the hole in the pan to match:

imag1394.jpg



MAP H11 Tool Steel L19 head studs:
imag1444c.jpg


The head before it's final cleaning before installation. I had two exhaust manifold stud holes stripped so I heli-coiled them.
imag1445.jpg


Head installed and torqued down to 95 ft/lbs using moly lube. Went with a 4 layer MLS head gasket with this motor.
imag1447.jpg


imag1446p.jpg
 
August 2012:

Decided to reroute the harness and do a little wire tuck while the engine bay is readily accessible. I pulled the main harness apart where it bolts to the stock intake manifold since I'm going to be running FRH manifold now. I got rid of all the old, brittle and cracking wire loom. I separated the CTS, CAS, TPS, fuel injectors and ignition plugs & wiring... that was fun

The plan is to run the CTS, CAS and TPS wiring around the passenger side of the motor (follow heater hoses) instead of wrapping all the way around the drivers side. That way I can can hide the injector harness under the fuel rail and not have the rest of the harness wrap around the head and make it's way over to the thermostat housing. I had to shorten the wires for the coolant temp sensor, CAS and TPS so I made sure to solder and heat shrink the connections. In addition to looking cleaner, it should make it a lot easier to disconnect and pull the motor in the future. I bought some new loom so once I re-loom the wiring and route everything I think it will turn out pretty nice. Shit, now that I've gone this far I'm really contemplating filling unused bolt holes and repainting the engine bay. Ehh that's more work than I really want to do at this point so we'll see if it actually happens. :?

Here's how it looked a couple days ago. It looks better than this now as I hadn't shortened any of the wiring or cleaned anything at this point.
imag1455.jpg


Bought the Kiggly Racing 5 disk upgraded front clutch kit for the auto trans. The trans should be pretty stout at this point! According to Kiggly: A stock auto with upgraded end/front clutches, welded center diff, shift kit and full line pressure should live comfortably into the 9 second range. Next on the list is a TansLab shift kit and some valvebody modifications.
imag1456o.jpg


Now I need to figure out what to do with my battery. I'll no longer be able to run a stock sized battery in the stock location with the aftermarket intake manifold. So... I've been kicking around a few ideas and I really don't want to relocate the battery to the trunk for a couple reasons:
1. I don't want to deal with the voltage/amp drop issues.
2. I don't want to run a kill switch on the back of the car to pass tech at the track.
3. I'm cheap and to do it right it's going to cost more than I want to spend on the damn battery

September 5th 2012:
Made a little bit more progress this past holiday weekend. I probably could have got more done had I not drank and smoked so damn much, but oh well, we're making progress.

So the FRH manifold I bought needed a little bit of attention. The owner before me had welded a couple brackets on the back of the manifold, drilled about 50 holes in it for who knows what and the black paint was also starting to look pretty shitty. So I sand blasted it and my buddy and I threw it in the bridgeport to machine off the welded brackets and tap/plug the holes. Obviously I'm going to be using some of these ports for vacuum when the time comes. Just not at the moment.
2012090295201612.jpg


Next was time to install the cams, lifters, rockers, cam seals and cam gears:
imag1463i.jpg


imag1472m.jpg


New Gates timing belt installed:
imag1473p.jpg


I painted the intake manifold a semi-gloss high temp black and installed it as well.
imag1480u.jpg


Now it's time to tackle installing the Kiggly front clutch pack in the trans and start putting everything back in the car so I can finish shortening and routing my harness. Getting close and I always get more motivated when I start to see the actual progress!

Finished getting the manifold bolted up to the engine and setting up the vacuum ports off the back.
From Left to Right: AFPR/Boost gauge, Brake Booster, Map sensor

vacuumports.jpg


I drilled and tapped a spot in front of the throttle body for the BOV line:
bovport.jpg


motorturbo.jpg


Almost done with rerouting the harness and re-looming/heat shrinking the sensor plugs. Here's the tps and coolant temp plugs:

wiringt.jpg
 
September 25th, 2012:
So, I decided to install the Kiggly 5 friction disk front clutch kit last night, since it's about the last thing I need to do before I get the car back together.
14938286.jpg


Pump coming out:
85734007.jpg


37462478.jpg


93523822.jpg


Front clutch basket coming out:
97546018.jpg


47861304.jpg


Front clutch basket is out.
57190240.jpg


Old 4 disk front clutch pack taken apart:
76409663.jpg


My front clutch disks were starting to show some wear for sure, most of them had at least a couple of spots that were questionable:
71860316.jpg


Kiggly 5 disk (for oem basket) clutches/steels on the left.# Stock 4 disk front clutch pack on the right:
77050576.jpg


Kiggly 5 front clutch kit installed in the basket and ready to go back in the transmission. Here they are soaking in ATF awaiting install.
57417474.jpg
 
November 2012:

November 2012:

Well it's been a while since I've posted any updates, but I have been slowly chipping away at the car. I finally finished re-installing the Kiggly front clutch kit and pump assembly.

I then installed a TransLab shift kit, which involves modding/drilling valvebody orifices and changing out springs in the valvebody. It took me a little longer than I thought it would, because I had to buy a new valvebody separator plate since one of the oem metal check-balls FUBAR'd it's orifice hole. No biggie though, found a Mitsu dealership in Texas that had one in stock for a mere $24.

Here's some pics of the shift kit install/valvebody cleaning:

Valvebody out of the trans:
imag1557.jpg


Quite a bit of sludge in the fluid passages, it definitely needed a thorough cleaning:
imag1561.jpg


Valvebody components disassembled, minus the big separator plate:
imag1562z.jpg


All cleaned up and ready for reassembly with new shift kit components:
imag1564.jpg


New separator plate installed:
imag1565.jpg


Valvebody reassembled:
valvebodycompleted.jpg



Next I went to work on relocating the battery to the trunk and installing a master kill switch. I bought a NHRA approved, sealed Moroso battery box and an All Star Performance master kill switch. The battery relocation is done, now I just need to finish wiring up my distribution block in the engine bay.

I followed this wiring model I found on dsmtuners. This is the proper way to hook up a kill switch and pass tech at the track:
wirediagramforkillswitc.jpg



  • -I ran a 1/0 gauge welding cable for the main power cable from the engine bay to the kill switch on the back of the car. I drilled a new hole in the firewall and installed rubber grommets to run the wire into the cabin.

  • -I ran a 1 gauge section of welding cable from the kill switch to the battery. I'm also installing a 200amp circuit breaker in this section of cable, just waiting on shipping.

  • -I ran a 2 gauge wire with a 100amp inline fuse straight from the alternator output to the battery side of the kill switch. This will be fed by a 96amp saturn alternator.

  • -Used the remaining portion of my 1/0 welding cable for the negative cable and grounded it to one of the rear seat anchoring bolts, just cleaned up the metal to ensure a good ground.


Here's some pics of the install:

Battery box mounted and vent tube installed:
imag1623.jpg


Positive cable and vent tube:
imag1624.jpg


Battery cables entering the box:
imag1625.jpg


Ground cable:
imag1626.jpg


Kill switch wiring:
imag1627.jpg


All done:
imag1628w.jpg


Where I mounted the kill switch:
imag1608.jpg


I cut, soldered and heat shrunk all the cable ends using the lugs and solder slugs available from Del City - Electrical Supplies & Professional Grade Wiring Products. Most of the cables I used I either had already, or purchased from various ebay sellers.
 
December 2012:

Finally got off my ass and found the time to start putting her back together. It won't be long now!

Here's some pics:
goingin.jpg


Motor in:
engineini.jpg


Transmission in, intercooler piping, fuel filter, new fuel lines:
motorandtransin.jpg


Radiator, turbo oil line, the rest of the harness etc etc.
moredone.jpg


All I really have left to do is finish putting the passenger strut and tie rod back together, finish up the saturn alternator wiring, mount and make the AN lines for my catch can and mount/wire up the new nitrous solenoids.

Made a little more progress the other night. I pretty much worked on the car until my toes were numb; then I decided it was time to call it a night. :)

-Made a home depot mount for the catch can and nitrous solenoids
-Installed transfer case/drive shaft
-Bolted up the downpipe
-Hooked up the drivers side front suspension, tie rod end and axle the carrier bearing.

Picture of the ghetto rigged catch can mount I made, LOL doesn't look the prettiest, but it's solid. Home Depot Racing FTW haha!
catchcanmount.jpg


Same deal with the nitrous solenoids mount. Just a piece of aluminum angle from home depot. I didn't mount the solenoids yet as I'm waiting for a couple 90* fittings I ordered from Summit.
solenoidmount.jpg


motornv.jpg


What's left to do:
-Bolt up the passenger suspension and tie rod.
-Wire up the saturn alternator.
-Bolt up the north/south bar & gusset under the trans.
-Make some new ground wires for the engine bay.
-Make the AN lines from the valvecover to the catch can.
-Fill with fluids, prime the motor and fire her up

Jan 2012:
Well I finally started the car up and drove it around a little bit :D

Everything seems fine so far. I have small vacuum leak coming from where the throttle body meets the intake manifold and every now and then the saturn alternator puts out too much voltage (15.5ish).

Here's a video idle after I put about 30 miles on it. The motor is a used 6 bolt so nothing required a break in.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M91Z97mtotI]FFWD L2 cams at idle - YouTube[/ame]

I also cut a vent in a stock hood, installed some mesh fence from home depot, some edge molding from vatozone and then painted it with some plasti-dip.

100mediaimag1886.jpg


100mediaimag1887.jpg



Finally made it back to the track (Irwindale) with the new setup!

Was able to make 3 passes. First one was garbage as I bogged out of the hole. 2nd run I screwed up the launch so bad I didn't even make a full run. 3rd pass of the night was kind of decent, except I still bogged the launch a bit.

60' - 1.9
1/8th - 7.4
mph - 97mph

I have one video from inside the car. It completely bogged out of the hole and ran an 8.1 @ 96mph.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dnSGpnfMoM]92 Talon Auto at Irwindale - First test pass - YouTube[/ame]

Then my buddy took a crappy video with his cell phone of my 3rd and best pass of the night.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpY37GWOA6s]92 Auto Talon - Irwindale 3rd test pass - YouTube[/ame]

I'm going to try and make it back to the track tomorrow after work and see if I can't get a better launch.
 
Sept 2013:

What up guys, been a while since I've posted any updates or anything. No worries, I'm always tinkering with the DSM, just don't have time to keep things up-to-date on the forums.

I had some fun with my last setup, running an FP manifold and HX40 in a BEP housing. Got the car to run 7.0@100mph in the 1/8th on an OEM shortblock and relatively conservative tune. Then while tuning one night, I was really turning up the wick on the the holset (40ish psi) the damn compressor nut decided to back off. This, as you can imagine, caused a little bit of carnage LOL.

Poor HX40, it was such a good turbo too:
29hc.jpg


5k9x.jpg


6qae.jpg



So I decided to change the whole setup and finally move away from the bolt-on stuff. I went quite a bit bigger than I originally planned, but it was a pretty decent deal for the turbo so I couldn't resist. Ended up picking up a Bullseye S366 in a divided .91a/r T4 housing (BorgWarner Airwerks 91/79) from a friend.

S366, the turbine and compressor are both ceramic coated:
12qg.jpg


0zzx.jpg


Now on to the fun part, getting this big ass sucker to fit in the damn car. I found a used DNP pseudo twin scroll manifold for a good price on the ecmlink boards so I jumped on it. I then proceeded to sell most everything else that had to do with a bolt on setup so I could finish putting together what I needed for the T4 setup. Had to order a new wastegate too, since the DNP has a tial 44mm flange on it. Good thing I have a friend that works for Turbosmart, so I got this new hypergate for a really good price:

Turbosmart 45mm:
w3u9.jpg


I took the car to my friends shop and he helped me fab up the turbine outlet, downpipe and wastegate dump. 3" piping with the alternator and stock oil filter housing is a tight ass fit! Was a bit of a pain in the ass, but overall I'm happy with the way it turned out!

Here are some pics of finishing the turbo setup:

Turbo/manifold:
afjs.jpg


8hfm.jpg


Test fitting on the car:
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pvih.jpg
 
Pretty decent fit actually, the DNP manifold places the turbo in a good position, it actually has more room between the waterpipe than my FP/BEP combo did. Had to change my lower intercool piping slightly and mod my -12 oil return line.

The hard part was getting the O2 housing outlet to the downpipe. The BWS366 doesn't use your typical VBand flange. It uses what's called a "Marman flange" which is similar looking to a vband, but not at all the same. The diameter of the s366 flange is 4.21" but the outlet of the tubine itself is just a hair over 3." I bought a 4" to 3" marman adapter and we had to cut it up to make it work.

Taking the car to the shop:
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Getting ready to start fitting this thing:
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This is what we came up with :)
xk0g.jpg


yxbu.jpg


u1eb.jpg


Had to cut a few inches off the downpipe and weld on a vband flange to mate up to the new o2 housing. Fits pretty well, and I should still "barely" be able to get that oil filter off there.
5nzb.jpg


O2 housing:
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I wrapped the o2 housing and first foot or so of the downpipe with header wrap, you can also see my oil return line here:
y5re.jpg


Pretty much complete at this point:
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pjmi.jpg


v5ej.jpg


I'll hopefully be tuning this week sometime, then it's off to Irwindale for some test passes!

Well I took her out and did a little tuning, the thing pulls pretty well with a very rich, conservative tune. So last week I decided to take it to irwindale and attempt to dial the launch with the new turbo.

First run, 24-25psi of boost
1.62 60'
7.28 @ 95mph

Third run, 26-27psi of boost
1.75 60' (spinning through first)
7.29@98mph

I pretty much only went to practice launching with the spark cut vs fuel cut 2-step and see how this turbo spooled with my restalled converter. Worked pretty well actually! Launching at around 4000rpm and it would blow the street tires off the thing, need to lower the launch rpm a little. I also wired up a VW vacuum pump and the base timing ground wire to the brake pedal. OMG it makes it so much easier to launch this car. No more popping it in neutral to rev it up and build vacuum in the brake booster, just flip two switches and go! I also installed a ForcedFour.com shift box and wired up the button on my hurst shift knob for upshifting, so now the hurst shifter is only for putting the car in forward and reverse. I also mounted a momentary button to the steering wheel for the nitrous control, I spray the thing manually and through most of the 60'.

5euj.jpg


shiftboxbasic.jpg

I initially had a problem with the shiftbox not working using the external shifter inputs, but Shawn at forced four took care of it very promptly for me. Great customer service and product from him.
 
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