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ECMlink SD Start up

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TK9er

Proven Member
168
16
Jun 1, 2014
lincoln, Nebraska
Hey, I am totally new to the ecmlink thing. I have done some reading on the wiki as well as here. As you can imagine, it's pretty overwhelming. I guess I was just wondering if someone could point me to something that helped them get the hang of link, especially tuning for SD. I feel like I'm reading a different language :) I don't want to just post stuff and not learn, so I feel bad asking for help when I know I need to do some leg work too. That being said, I am going to attach some logs. They are just start ups and "idling". I say it that way because it's super high. I currently to not have my catch can hooked up, so both ports on the valve cover are just venting to the atmosphere. I wasn't sure if this was a big deal since I'm running SD. I also have an overheating issue that I am trying to figure out. So, if you are board and want to look at them, feel free.

A little back ground on my set up. 6 bolt with 7 bolt head, stock cams, 1200 injectors, 255 pump, 93 octane, 68 hta v1, innovate wb, running the front factory o2... not sure what else is important. I have most of the SD set up done, as in assigning the ecu pins and what not. At least I think I do. I have tried to do the manual calibration stuff, but it has been difficult because of the cooling issue. I'm pretty sure i have the fp set to 37. I haven't done base timing (need to get a light). Anyway, take a look if you have time and let me know if there is anything glaring that I need to fix.
 

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I have your 1st log up (and my internet went down then), are you idling at 1600 rpm and at 12% throttle? Or are you holding the throttle open?
According to the log, you are holding it open. We need to get the idle down.
I also recommend 43.5 psi fuel pressure and get a timing light handy. When the engine finally idles, and it should easily with stock cams, you can set the base timing at 5* to get started.
 
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Here is where I'm learning to set up and tune for sd. You'll need to look up how to adjust your tps and how to set idle correctly.
After that you'll need to look up how to set your base ignition timing using a timing light and link.
Im unsure about venting valve cover to atmosphere myself, that is what I am doing as well.
Also I think you'll have to simulate narrowband with your wideband.
 
That is a very good read!
 
1) Throttle position - as Marty mentioned - never goes below 11%. The idle switch is activated, so its not an issue of your foot holding the throttle open, it must be something else.

This could be due to a cable out of adjustment and holding the throttle body plate open.
It could also be the throttle position sensor out of adjustment and holding the plate open.
And finally it could be the throttle position sensor out of adjustment (but not holding the plate open)

2) Based on the cells over 100% VE - you likely will need to do some VE scaling and make an adjustment to the global fuel correction.
The idea here is to scale your largest value to be 100% and use the same scale on all of the remaining cells in the table. Then you can bring the fuel back to where you started by adjusting the global fuel setting.

3) Your table looks pretty "blocky". Did you start from a stock table? How did you arrive at your current adjustments?

4) The global fuel SLIDERS probably should be zero'd out until you have a really good VE table, then you can go back to playing with them. Same goes for timing sliders.

5) You need to re-run the TPS adjustment tool after correcting any issues with the cable or sensor.

6) I recommend changing your CEL alert for knock from 5deg down to 1deg. Better to get the warning early than late.

7) I would probably hold off on activating Anti-lag until you have a decent tune in it.

8) Do you run a stock o2 sensor in the front o2 location? where is your WBo2 installed?
If you dont have a stock o2 sensor, you need to enable narrowband o2 simulation.
 
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The first 50 seconds of the log your timing is at 5.0deg solid. That seems odd... did you have the "ground timing connector to ecu" box checked and then uncheck it 50 seconds into the log? I am confused about that...
 
Ok, a couple quick things. I have corrected the tps. It's is now at .63 and reading 0%, I got the version of link off of another member, so I have no idea what was loaded. All I did was change the injector and changed my ecu pins for my sensors. I followed the basic and set up on ecmlink. I am running a stock o2 sensor in the front. My wb is down stream basically right after the front wheel. I haven't messed with the timing at all. All I have done was set the #1 cylinder to tdc and placed the cas on with the groves lined up they way you're suppose to. I did mess with the biss last night. I read that a good starting point was all the way down then back off two turns. I really need to do a boost leak test and base timing with a light. I am busy tonight, but will hopefully get to that Thursday. Thanks for the help so far. I'm sure I'll have more once questions once I get that done!
 
So if you didnt make the changes to the timing and fuel sliders, did you change them back to zero now? I would recommend that until you get some of the basic optimized.

For setting the biss there is an easy way to do it with link. No need to guess or use bench settings.

"Adjustment with ECMlink:
  1. Adjust the throttle cable, idle switch or idle screw, and TPS first.
  2. Look at LearnedIdleAdjust and ISCposition while streaming data during warm idle.
  3. Adjust the BISS to get those values to about 144 and 30, respectively. If the values are high, it's opening the ISC more, so open the BISS more to counteract that. And if the values are low, close the BISS to cause those values to increase. They are very slow to adjust. "
Source: https://www.sixsigmatuning.com/pages/dsm-idle-control
 
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Boost leak test and timing light are a good idea. Borrow the timing light if you don't feel like buying one. It shouldn't be something you need to do often, so maybe see if autozoo has them in the loan-a-tool program they do.

As for learning the different language there are a ton of free resources on the web, or you could try out this book:
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If you want to understand what you are doing it will take some studying. I have taken a considerable amount of time to study this stuff, and I find it fascinating, but I still don't understand much about it. :idontknow:
 
If anybody is feeling generous. You can take a look at this short log. It is of me attempting to start my car. I have no idea what I need to do. At this point I am wondering if one of my sensors isn't working right. I did rewire my map sensor from a gm 3 bar to a mitsu omni 4 bar... but, the senor is reading something... I don't know. I have been messing with the deadtime and the tspadjust. It hasn't made a huge difference. The car should idle.

Anyway, if you are up to it. Take a look and see if you notice anything.
 

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what is your fuel pressure? what size injectors do you run?
Your wideband does not appear to be working, or you are super super rich (reason for my fuel pressure and injector sizing question). It stays at 7.6 or something else unrealistically low which to me suggests a wiring issue, but thats just a hunch.

So, Test/set your base fuel pressure. If pressure isnt really high then you need to look into fixing the wideband. Do you know your stock o2 sensor is working? Any reason you dont just run the wideband up front and use link to simulate the narrowband?
 
I would simulate the idle switch with the tps. I don't see anything that would inhibit the car from starting. Bad gas?

I put fresh gas in it, but it was mixed with the old stuff. I'll pump it out today and put in all fresh.
 
what is your fuel pressure? what size injectors do you run?
Your wideband does not appear to be working, or you are super super rich (reason for my fuel pressure and injector sizing question). It stays at 7.6 or something else unrealistically low which to me suggests a wiring issue, but thats just a hunch.

So, Test/set your base fuel pressure. If pressure isnt really high then you need to look into fixing the wideband. Do you know your stock o2 sensor is working? Any reason you dont just run the wideband up front and use link to simulate the narrowband?

My fuel pressure is around 43, injector size is 1200cc. And yeah, I've been looking at the o2 and wondering what's up... Both sensors are new. I am running the front because innovate said to put the sensor a certain distance from the turbo (I know that ecmlink says that's not necessary, but I was hoping to use it). As for fixing the wideband, where would you start? I calibrated it, and it's still reading something, even if it's all goofy. I thought abought just putting it up front and simulating to see if that helps. Thanks for the suggestions, keep them coming!
 
I would hesitate to say the WB works because it basically reads full rich the entire time until it shoots up twice at the end of the log. I wonder if there is a wiring issue and it got jarred into place on those two jumps. However, the nb o2 sensor seems to reading full rich as well. It's hard to say considering the car isn't really running. I'm running out of ideas, but zero out the deadtime to reduce your fuel and see if the car likes that. Be sure to simulate idle switch with tps like we said. If that doesn't work, go back to the basics and get a compression and leakdown test on the engine.
 
I've never touched global scalar under MAF Comp tab and have mine at 0. You have it set at 14.1. Also reset the openloopthreshold in da. I'd also upload the 2g timing map. Try adjusting the cas since it won't stay running. Once you get it to idle, set the base timing.
 
tk106, solid advice!

I don't think the maf global scalar will affect him with SD enabled, and MAF compensation disabled with SD.

I am not sure, but I think you should assign the pin for wideband in ECU functions and enable narrowband simulation. You say you calibrated it, but I am very curious how that was done since the car isn't running?

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I would also recommend disabling the anit-lag features until you have the car running. I dont think thats causing issues, but why not rule it out?
 
tk106, solid advice!

I don't think the maf global scalar will affect him with SD enabled, and MAF compensation disabled with SD.

I am not sure, but I think you should assign the pin for wideband in ECU functions and enable narrowband simulation. You say you calibrated it, but I am very curious how that was done since the car isn't running?

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I would also recommend disabling the anit-lag features until you have the car running. I dont think thats causing issues, but why not rule it out?
The lc1/lc2 wideband doesn't require the car to berunning for a calibration; only turned on.
 
All great stuff. I'm not home at the moment, but when I do I'll start on this list. Everything on the car is new. Fresh overhaul with new rods and pistons a small bump in compression. Head was done at the same time with a valve job. The wb came with my innovate kit. I calibrated it by the remove and unplug, plug in and wait, then, install. The gauge said Cal and it read 22.4 like it was suppose to... Like I said, I'll start working on this list.
 
LOAD SCALE @ 114%?
so you have a smaller than 2.0 engine?
1.74L?

the formula is shown in link.

stock displacement / your displacement * 100 = load scale

if you have a 2.0 set this 100%. if you have a 2.3 set this to 87%. if you really have a 1.75L then leave it as is.

could this be the cause of all your problems? maybe
 
Ok, I corrected the load scale in direct access and nothing really changed... here is the log. what is the deal with the o2 sensor?
 

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  • log.2019.10.26-04.elg
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Hmm, it's a long shot but maybe your biss screw is set in too far? It's hard to to tell because the car isn't running for very long, but the iscposition shows it's wanting more air. Try and take the biss out a little and, once again, reduce your deadtime to 0 or 50 and see if the car likes it.
 
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I put fresh gas in. moved the biss out. zero'd the deadtime. the plugs are black a sooty. nothing seems to be working. i have no idea.
 
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