ECMlink SD+E-85+1450cc= setup and tuning issues

[Boomdeeze]

I read through the Wiki and threads to setup my SD. I can't seem to get it to idle right and my A/F is really rich. Even if I lower the deadtime, it seems to do slim to none. I had the dead time down to 200 and was still rich(~12). I have the SD bundle and cable from ecmlink and was wondering if anyone could look in my log and tell me if it looks good or if I F'd it all up.

My software is also for a Mac so im not sure if you can view it if you dont have the software specifically for Mac's.

Thanks for all the help.

I looked at my logs again and realized my omni 4 bar reads -29 even with the car off. It doesn't change even if the sensor is unplugged, did I get a bad one from them?

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

First off.

Zero (0%) your TPS. You'll need to fine tune it to get to 0% but it needs to be there. Do this while logging.

IdleSw: 0 = Foot on 1 = Foot off.

It's isn't working because your ThrotPos is at 5% when idling. It was in the beginning of your log but soon after it slowly rose to 5% around 30 seconds in. Start with foot off and push the pedal all the way to the floor and let off again. Right click the log and select TPS Adjust.

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I'm going to assume this is an idle capture with a few revs here and there.

Your AirflowPerRev is too high. It needs to be .25 if you have a regular 2.0l Engine and .27 if it is stroked.

Then adjust your CombinedFT down to near 0%

Make sure your MAP sensor is set up right. It's not showing it logged correctly.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Anyone can see your log regardless of the fact that you are using a mac.

You have the MAP sensor assigned to the MDP input but it needs to be assigned to the Baro input. I think that is your problem. Read this blurb from the ECMlink SD cable page: This cable connects the IAT sensor to the factory Intake Temp input pin and the MAP sensor to the factory Baro input pin. So when configuring the ECMLink software, those are the pins you'll need to specify and use.

2G & EVO1-3 NOTE: This cable ties the pressure sensor directly to the ECU's baro input. The baro input of the 2G and EVO1-3 ECUs may not be compatible with some aftermarket pressure sensors, though. You can get more information on the 2G Baro and EVO1-3 Baro pages. However, our 4-bar MAP sensors we offer do work without any modifications at all.

 

[Imback]

This^ A non functioning map sensor will cause the car to run rough or not run at all.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Thanks guys, I did fix my TPS but seems like I need to readjust it again. I will definitely fix that so it logs correctly and post another log. I have to rev it in order to keep it running. I am going to check to make sure the omni 4 bar sensor has 5v power going to it along with the signal wire.

 

[Imback]

You just need to change the pin assignment.

 

[Boomdeeze]

So with the pin assignment wrong, the ecu isn't using it? I thought by mixing that up, it only effects the logging part?

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

Logging it is necessary for tuning. It being recognized by the ECU is necessary for controlling the motor. So reassigning it will enable both.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Get the pin assignment setup right an you shouldn't have any problems...

I run SD and BM 1450cc without a injector driver box an had Zero issues getting them dialed in on Both E85 and Gas.

 

[snowborder714]

So with the pin assignment wrong, the ecu isn't using it?

Correct. Even though it's wired up, the factory ECU doesn't use the sensor, so the ECMlink chip is what needs to recognize the input sensor. If the sensor is wired, but mapped to the wrong input, the chip won't recognize it since that sensor will not be on the end of the input that you told it to look at.

 

[Boomdeeze]

OK I switched the pin assignment to baro and I'm capturing it now but its froze at 30.1 inHg.

 

[snowborder714]

Post a log.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Here is my most recent log:

 

[snowborder714]

First of all, I would unground the timing connector (Misc screen in link).

Just curious why you have the car locked in open loop for some reason. Try unchecking that as well to see if the car will idle better.

Do you have an Omni sensor (replaces the 2g MDP sensor) or do you have a GM MAP sensor (has a nipple on it to run vacuum line to)? As far as I know, ECMTuning's packages normallyy come with the GM MAP sensor, and I know their cables typically have GM MAP plugs on them. If you have a GM MAP, you'll need to switch that in the software. If you have an Omni sensor, then I'd wonder why you'd have it fed from the Baro since the 2g MDP plug works on it (and you'd have it input via the MDP).

 

[Boomdeeze]

It sounds like I have the GM MAP sensor but link does not have an option for it, they only have 3 bar and a 3.3 bar. This is the bundle I have:

ECMTuning, Inc.

I see they say 4 bar so I figured it was the only one that stated it was a 4 bar. Do I just select the 3 bar since they say its a direct plug and play if you already have the 3 bar?

 

[snowborder714]

Nope, you have it correct.

How long is the vacuum line running to the MAP, where is it coming from, and is there anything teed into it?

Do you possibly still have a MAS/MAF plugged in?

 

[Boomdeeze]

The vacuum line is like 5 inches and connects dirrectly to my JMF on its own nipple with nothing T'd into it.

I'm starting to think the omni 4 bar that I have is bad.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

First of all, I would unground the timing connector (Misc screen in link).

Just curious why you have the car locked in open loop for some reason. Try unchecking that as well to see if the car will idle better.

Do you have an Omni sensor (replaces the 2g MDP sensor) or do you have a GM MAP sensor (has a nipple on it to run vacuum line to)? As far as I know, ECMTuning's packages normallyy come with the GM MAP sensor, and I know their cables typically have GM MAP plugs on them. If you have a GM MAP, you'll need to switch that in the software. If you have an Omni sensor, then I'd wonder why you'd have it fed from the Baro since the 2g MDP plug works on it (and you'd have it input via the MDP).

I bought the ECMTuning SD package and it came with a "GM style" 4-bar sensor but you use the Omnipower 4-bar selection on the ECU input screen. I thinks that's where the confusion between the GM or Omni sensor came from. The way I had read it when I purchased mine I thought that the"GM style" senor they sold was an Omni sensor. I didn't realize that was something different. ECMTuning, Inc.

 

[MY1GDSM]

When you say that the Map is stuck at 30.1, Are you referencing the Stock BARO output? I think you might not be capturing your Map sensor still...

Should be listed as something close to what it's named in the Sensor description page...


Anyone else notice the AirflowPerRev never goes below 0.60 gm/rev? (Never mind missed 2nd post) You should add VE so it's logged as well...

Edit: One quick Question are you staring from scratch tune wise? or did you have a Gas tune before? Some details about before these logs would help a bit... .

Also About your PM...
I'll have to hook up my Laptop sometime an pull my tune off to compare or provide you with any info, As I don't have any logs or files on my laptop (New Hard drive)

 

[snowborder714]

Der, I don't know how I missed something as simple as not capturing it Too many people requesting tuning help lately is what I'll blame it on

Hit F10 while you're connected to the ECU and add the Omni to the captured values list (same with other important values), and then hit F9 and add those newly captured values to the displayed values list.

 

[Boomdeeze]

I am starting from scratch, I installed all my new parts with the intention to switch to e85 right away. I will get rid of capturing the MDP and the Baro and add omni 4 bar and VE. Anything else you guys want me to capture?

 

[snowborder714]

SDRatio is the only one off hand I can think of.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Here is a log with omni 4 bar being captured and displayed along with VE. Same thing happens and wont idle.

 

[MY1GDSM]

What's your base fuel pressure set at?

Also your running the most current firmware right and desktop app? Firmware MAC App update

 

[Boomdeeze]

My fuel pressure is 43.5 and I think its up to date, I will check that out. But I think I found out my atleast one of my injectors are bad. When I take the oil cap off, I can hear what sounds like running water when I put my ear up to the hole. There is also a clicking noise coming from them when the car is off at the same time as I hear the water running noise. But if I pull the relay and run the pressure out of the lines, the running water sound and the clicking is gone. So only happens when there is fuel pressure. Injectors not holding? This could explain my rich idle and fuel pressure dropping so fast.