ECMlink 2G SD and tuning noob

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Alright I made the switch to SD, changed all necessary setting in ECMLink (as far as I can see from reading and videos). It cranks, but wont really start, when it does it runs for a couple seconds and sputters out. Ran when parked on the MAF.

I'll post a log of cranking if anyone wants to look and see what they can see. I'm trying to learn all this on my own as I don't really have the extra money to have someone do it for me so please no hate. .

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

What year ECU are you using (factory 95 EPROM or did you get yours socketed) and what CAS? Shows you are using a 95-96CAS in link (Use non 95-96CAS is unchecked). Is your firing order correct for link if you've touched the ignition since you've parked it? This is a very common one.

You should also disable airflow smoothing with SD.

What did you touch to convert to SD? Did you do a BLT already to test the TB elbow (I'm assuming you mounted the IAT there). Although leaks prior to the metering system don't matter it's always good to have them repaired.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

There's the CAS. 4123 firing order. Switched in mafcomp from stock to speed density, checked box to disable MAF compensation with SD operation, added pin assignments for IAT and 4bar MAP sensor.

Did a BLT, only one I found was at the jpipe flange and BOV flange which I torqued down till it quit bubbling.

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And also calculated global fuel adjustment for 1200 FIC injectors

So I'm a dummy and forgot to set my inbatteryadj for new injectors. Calculated for those and put global deadtime to 0 and it started and idled, poorly but it idled till it sputtered to a stop. But its progress.

Here's another log.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Alright yall i dont wanna spam this post but I greatly value and need yalls professional opinions . I got her started and idling smooth with some deadtime adjustment. Got a 11 minute idle log for yall to look at and please lmk where yall think I can make improvements. I REALLY appreciate yall's input.

Also I think something may be wrong with my front o2 sensor. It starts to cycle then stops and stays around 1v.

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

Are you running a 95ECU or a socketed 97 ECU?

If you are running a 95 EPROM you need to check the cam angle sensor box and firing order is 3-2-1-4.

But that is beside the point especially if it ran fine before. So the log is showing pig rich at 7.3 (highest is 7.4) while the ECU is calling for 10.8. Are you sure you have it scaled for the correct injectors? (You've visualized they are 1200's or you bought them new). If you did not buy them new, where did you get the injbatteryadj numbers?

Verify base fuel pressure is 42.5 with no vacuum line to AFPR?

I would start by setting them to normal scaling that is recommended, putting injbattadj to stock and running the recommended dead time in the main page and start from there and see where you get. You can try lowering deadtime until your car runs so we can see what is going on and start working towards a solution/tune. Lean out idle = lower dead time, richen idle = higher deadtime.

Alternatively you can start taking numbers off your VE table in the idle cells to tell the car to put in less fuel. <1000rpm and <9 load. Either way will get us a start.

Getting the initial run can be a bit of a pain, mine was a nightmare to start and then once it was warmed up I was able to start tuning it and got it a ton better for the next startup after initial.

 

[chrisman287]

This should help you

https://dsmfaq.com/downloads/TUNE_1G_V3_SD_ECMLINK_NOMAF_1.5.pdf

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Yeah I didn't have the injectors deadtime set right. I did get it to start and idle. Here's a log it's pretty long. Still some adjusting to do for sure and I think my front o2 may be faulty

 

[92Turbski]

Also I think something may be wrong with my front o2 sensor. It starts to cycle then stops and stays around 1v.

Dude, congrats on getting the ole gal back up and running!
You may get more help or attention in the Tuning and Engine management forum page, if you haven't already posted there.

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

Awesome!

Okay, so I took a look at the log, I can see what you mean with the front 02. I see it's cycling but isn't cycling properly around the wideband readings which is really strange. I am personally a huge fan of using my wideband with narrowband simulator in the front 02 spot so that way you have 1 sensor reading exactly what you want. If you already have it wired into your rear 02 you should be able to just flick "narrowband simulation" and enter your values. That way you can easily rule out the issues with the front 02.

Glad to see progress being made. The link that @chrisman287 provided is great as well.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Dude, congrats on getting the ole gal back up and running!
You may get more help or attention in the Tuning and Engine management forum page, if you haven't already posted there.

Thanks man!

 

[jed344]

I will start with i do not like to simulate. I have tuned many with it and always ends up better without. I prefer front o2 and rear o2 used to logging wideband. Now what i see in the log and tune. 10 tps offset and 120% is more then i personally like. I try to get tps manually adjusted to within .57-.65 essentially. This makes the offset much less. The DA tables i recognize minus dragged down a few degrees across the boost load areas they are fine. The front o2 did functioned normal and then stayed saying rich for a long enough time it forced the car into open loop. The wideband also said lean but that was due to front o2 then staying pegged and ecu pulling fuel. The short term fuel trim was maxed out saying ecu was pulling all the fuel it could. During warm up it looked to be idle surging some and still ecu then with front o2 reading was pulling fuel and wideband was saying lean. Warm air fuel per rev looks to be a bit low so needs some more in the VE table in idle area witch will also then add fuel at same time. When the car is forced into open loop it then ignores the front o2 so even though its pegged lean then it should not be effecting anything. On cars with hood dumps i often force idle to open loop to ignore air coming back into exhaust during idle. Then when in open loop i see wideband is right back on target, this means the fuel settings are in fact close and likely the front o2 has some issue. I would replace it and also add some VE in the idle area. By the end the ISC is almost all the way closed so could use a hair of biss screw open. I would say no need to simulate the wideband to confirm front o2 issues as once it was ignoring it the wideband showed it was right as wanted. This is all due to the front o2 acting badly in my opinion. I often see people see a lean wideband and think i need fuel at idle. This case its lean due to bad front o2 saying rich and ecu pulling max fuel.

I had a car i tune that was just simulated out the blue start running really strange at idle and cruise. I came and took a look. I do not even know how this was possible it was a old aem and it somehow reversed the voltage output it was sending. So simulated the car NEED's that 0-5v to be accurate as it has no front o2. I locked car in open loop. I added fuel the wideband went richer the log went leaner. Checked the raw voltage logged and sure it enough it was saying less voltage, If the car had a front o2 that issue would not have cuased the car to run bad and would have been easier to diagnoise. This is my personal preference as then with idle and cruise tuning in closed loop i can see the front o2 and also see the wideband so with 2 sensors vs just 1 i have more data and can also catch something like this easier.

Why when you reved the car did battery volts spike like that? Saw 17.8 volts.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

I will start with i do not like to simulate. I have tuned many with it and always ends up better without. I prefer front o2 and rear o2 used to logging wideband. Now what i see in the log and tune. 10 tps offset and 120% is more then i personally like. I try to get tps manually adjusted to within .57-.65 essentially. This makes the offset much less. The DA tables i recognize minus dragged down a few degrees across the boost load areas they are fine. The front o2 did functioned normal and then stayed saying rich for a long enough time it forced the car into open loop. The wideband also said lean but that was due to front o2 then staying pegged and ecu pulling fuel. The short term fuel trim was maxed out saying ecu was pulling all the fuel it could. During warm up it looked to be idle surging some and still ecu then with front o2 reading was pulling fuel and wideband was saying lean. Warm air fuel per rev looks to be a bit low so needs some more in the VE table in idle area witch will also then add fuel at same time. When the car is forced into open loop it then ignores the front o2 so even though its pegged lean then it should not be effecting anything. On cars with hood dumps i often force idle to open loop to ignore air coming back into exhaust during idle. Then when in open loop i see wideband is right back on target, this means the fuel settings are in fact close and likely the front o2 has some issue. I would replace it and also add some VE in the idle area. By the end the ISC is almost all the way closed so could use a hair of biss screw open. I would say no need to simulate the wideband to confirm front o2 issues as once it was ignoring it the wideband showed it was right as wanted. This is all due to the front o2 acting badly in my opinion. I often see people see a lean wideband and think i need fuel at idle. This case its lean due to bad front o2 saying rich and ecu pulling max fuel.

I had a car i tune that was just simulated out the blue start running really strange at idle and cruise. I came and took a look. I do not even know how this was possible it was a old aem and it somehow reversed the voltage output it was sending. So simulated the car NEED's that 0-5v to be accurate as it has no front o2. I locked car in open loop. I added fuel the wideband went richer the log went leaner. Checked the raw voltage logged and sure it enough it was saying less voltage, If the car had a front o2 that issue would not have cuased the car to run bad and would have been easier to diagnoise. This is my personal preference as then with idle and cruise tuning in closed loop i can see the front o2 and also see the wideband so with 2 sensors vs just 1 i have more data and can also catch something like this easier.

Why when you reved the car did battery volts spike like that? Saw 17.8 volts.

Thank you for your input. I figured the front o2 had something going on and will replace it asap and see where that goes along with your other suggestions. As for the spike in voltage im not sure. alternator overcharging maybe? I know coolant spilled on it from water pipe o-ring bursting and spraying coolant on it. Figured it may have caused an issue but wasnt sure and wanted to see before buying a new one. Also battery is relocated to the trunk but i dont think that should make that happen. Thanks again ill keep updated

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

Dang I missed the 17.8, I saw 15.1 but was like ehhhh it's only .1 out of spec. Did you remove your sense wire/move it from the alt?

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Well new O2 sensor does the same exact thing. I've done continuity tests on power and ground from ecu to harness and its good. At this point im convinced it has something to do with my settings that ive got wrong or missed or something. In this log you can see it starts to cycle and looks to be working then goes to open loop. Check it out lmk what im messing up also here's my fuel injector data sheet to compare

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[enriquez2000]

Well new O2 sensor does the same exact thing. I've done continuity tests on power and ground from ecu to harness and its good. At this point im convinced it has something to do with my settings that ive got wrong or missed or something. In this log you can see it starts to cycle and looks to be working then goes to open loop. Check it out lmk what im messing up also here's my fuel injector data sheet to compare

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I havent looked but are using innovate and e85 by chance?

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

I havent looked but are using innovate and e85 by chance?

Innovate yes and wideband is working fine. Using 93 oct.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

You have a few things set up wrong.

Well please, point me in the right direction

 

[DSMPT]

Well please, point me in the right direction

I am not following the thread always, so I don't know what problem you are having. But it seems at least you should replace the alternator as soon as possible. Your voltage regulator seems to be dead.
You have very high voltage, like mid 14v to high 15v at idle and you are having high 17v above 3000 rpm and it gets almost 18v at 4000 rpm. You may start damaging some parts...

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

I am not following the thread always, so I don't know what problem you are having. But it seems at least you should replace the alternator as soon as possible. Your voltage regulator seems to be dead.
You have very high voltage, like mid 14v to high 15v at idle and you are having high 17v above 3000 rpm and it gets almost 18v at 4000 rpm. You may start damaging some parts...

Yeah I was afraid of that. Was hoping it didn't fry it when coolant pipe leaked onto it. That'll be next and I'll go from there thank you.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Okay so I've replaced O2 sensor, alternator and done a boost leak test, found one more small one in a lower intercooler coupler leaking small amount and fixed it. ATP I think I have some settings wrong in ecmlink or something I'm missing. I've read and read and watched and watched all the videos and cant see what im doing wrong. Front O2 sensor cycles for a bit then flat lines and goes into open loop. No cel no dtc's. LMK what yall think and what I may be missing or need to change. All help is appreciated.

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[b00zt3d spyd3r]

I am here once again asking for help. Here's a couple logs, first one is cold start to full operating temp, and second one after already warm. I cannot for the life of me figure this out. I have brand new alternator, front o2 sensor, have checked wiring and grounds, boost leak tested, I cannot get this idle dialed in. I cannot get these fuel trims in line for the life of me. My goal of having it driveable by my birthday in a couple weeks is dwindling away... HEEEELLLLPPP I'm chasing my tail here

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[b00zt3d spyd3r]

I've been doing all the reading on ECMTuning website and all the forums about it and am getting conflicting info. ECMTuning says start with getting idle lined out, then work on cruise tune, then WOT. But a lot the forum info I see says do WOT tuning to get global fuel dialed in, then tweak from there for idle and cruise...

I'm trying it the ECMTuning way and starting with idle due to new injectors and cannot get trims or AFRatioEst right. Should I lock it in open loop and go do a WOT pull first? It idles lean so I don't wanna take it out and blow it up.

Here's another log... Thanks again

 

[CrackedDSM]

I wish I could be more help, man. But tuning SD on ECMLink is kind of a nightmare. Best advice I can give is reach out to McKenzie Lange on FB. Guys a tuning guru and helped me a ton with his advice.

 

[Stapl3]

Bail on the front o2 along with the rear o2 thing. It's all over the place and causing havoc. On the NBO2 sim tab, check the box to enable and see what happens.

Nothing else stands out to me as 'wrong'. If simulating the o2 cleans this up, I don't see an issue doing a WOT pull to calibrate the fuel system.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

I wish I could be more help, man. But tuning SD on ECMLink is kind of a nightmare. Best advice I can give is reach out to McKenzie Lange on FB. Guys a tuning guru and helped me a ton with his advice.

I have spoken with him a couple times and he's helped a bit. But I got a new phone and for some reason my old fb messaged deleted. It shows we had a convo but nothing in the chat so I can't see what all was said anymore