Questions for Justin...

[gofer]

I noticed that too however, my buddy ordered his flanges from ExtremePSi and we still took a dremel to them because of how tiny the holes were. I figured that's just how they come?

Might as well run to McDonalds and tape a bunch of straws in-line and fab an oil drain.

 

[JusMX141]

I actually think McDonalds' straws would work better.

It would be nice if someone would develop an aftermarket oil drain which didn't require modification....

 

[snowborder714]

Working on that, Jus

 

[tron2119]

Hey Justin I have a question for you. I am in the process of modifying a 14b into a TD05 20g. I already had the bearing housing machined to fit the compressor wheel. I bought a rebuild kit off ebay (same one I used for the 20g that is currently on my car) and have it all put together. But when I tighten the nut, even a little, it is super hard to turn. Is there something I forgot to machine or do?

Also, the nut and turbine shaft off the donor 14b are right hand thread...I didn't think they came that way. I was wondering also if this could be messing something up? Thanks in advance.

 

[JusMX141]

I can't diagnose something like that over the internet- it's like someone stating they just assembled their engine and now it won't roll over. Obviously something's causing it- could be a pinched seal groove, something wrong with the thrust plate, etc.

 

[tron2119]

Yeah, just didn't know if it was something common that happens when trying to modify the 14b cartridge. I was just looking for some suggestions as I have taken it apart multiple times now with no success.

 

[starfish]

I got a KKK K24 turbo from a 87 mercedes 300 turbo diesel.Would you happen to know where I can get the center part of the turbo replaced?The shaft broke and I cant find parts for it.Can I swap the center part of the turbo out from any k24 even if its form a different car?Do you Know were I can find parts for this turbo?#5324 970 6700 KKK mercedes

 

[JusMX141]

The cost of the replacement parts are going to be more than the turbo's worth. You're probably better-off scrapping it and starting over.

If you insist on repairing it, try G-Pop Shop for parts....but be prepared to spend $400-$500 to repair this outdated OEM turbo.

 

[turboglenn]

Justin, my holset results aren't so good on the oiling side.

60psi cold idle

30psi hot idle,

60psi hot above 2000 RPM shooting to 72 and pausing there only slightly before breaking into the 80+ range by as early as 4k RPM, and i would imagine just like last time i had a gauge on this car instead of a dummy light, when i'm at 6k and above the gauge is probably at 100psi

there's pics of where my pressure tap is reading from on the install thread latest post (link to single post)
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...1-3558x-underway-currently.html#post152868512

Should i just go back to feeding from the head unrestricted through a -4 line? I mean if my 360* thrust plated garrett lived for 10 years and 110k miles wouldn't the holset reason to do ok as well?

I keep thinking that since 72psi is the "max" i shouldn't have to be anywhere near there on a constant basis just to operate it (my thinking anyway) At the head i get a consistant ~10psi at idle (+/- 2psi) and anytime i rev above the idle range of 1500 RPM i am at 30psi consistantly

You think the 30psi would keep the holset alive at 30-35psi (i doubt i'll ever wring the thing out for all it's worth as i usually don't treat my toys that way, i over build and use to 3/4 potential

 

[JusMX141]

Is your oil filter housing ported? If so I don't see the pressure rising much beyond 80psi once the bypass valve opens. If that's the case I wouldn't worry much about an extra 8psi over what they recommend.

 

[turboglenn]

No it's not ported, and right now i can't afford to get the gasket kit with the OFH gasket in it if something goes wrong while removing it to install a ported one i have sitting here or to port the one on it.\

What are your thoughts on oiling it from the head.. I have that JDM head pressure regulator, the only model that has a tube protruding off it with a spring, piston and bypass hole like the OFH uses to control pressure.. it's said to be the only one mitsu made that can do the same job as the aftermarket ones like kiggly or english makes (can't recall who makes it but its billet and i'm sure you know what i am talking about)

that being said, you think it would live from the head at 30psi oil pressure and 30psi boost (that would be the same setup my 57trim ran with 360* thrust all those years with no failures, but i am depending on you for the difference in the oil requirements of the two turbos when it comes to reliability as i have little experience in holsets as you well know)

thanks

 

[JusMX141]

Well H1 thrust plates only have one oiling hole versus two in the HX turbos, so there will be less parasitic drain on the rest of the cartridge from the thrust system. There are a handful of guys with very high oil pressure successfully feeding their Holset from the head....perhaps you should keep that oil pressure gauge in the line just to be on the safe side.

Certain things that are against Holset users who may feed from the head would be if they get the head milled a good amount, or if they're running a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block without boring the stud holes. Both of these things can effect the amount of available pressure and volume to keep a Holset alive when fed from the head.

 

[Dyesuperman]

Does this look like a 90* fitting to you? I am almost positive it is but want to make sure.

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Now here is the problem...see how the hose is pulled to one side?

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And here how the turbo center housing is rotated so the hose and fitting line up
Taken with phone straight up and down

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Taken with phone at same angle as drain fitting

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This drain setup is working for my current turbo, but when I put the holset on I don't think it is going to do...main reason being that the center housing has to be rotated so much to have the fittings line up. Would you say a 60* push lock fitting would work better to replace the 90*? I THINK a 60* should make it all line up pretty well but a second opinion would be helpful so I don't waste $35 on the new fitting.

Or as an alternative do you think I could just hack up my current oil pan fitting to just slide a hose onto it and tighten it with a clamp? That would be the cheaper option by far but I don't know if it would seal well since it is curved.

And lastly, how much is safe to grind off of the compressor housing/backing plate in order to have the drain fitting fit? I have a -16an drain setup and the fitting for the turbo side doesn't fit on there too well. I really don't even know how to make another one that is the same size that would fit. Any ideas here? Should I just grind the housing/backing plate for clearance?

Thanks,

Caleb

 

[JusMX141]

Why can't you clock the Holset to the same angle that the Turbonetics is there and make the piece of hose longer if necessary? Perhaps I don't understand....unless you're moving the entire placement of the turbo itself- i.e., a different manifold and turbine housing setup.

 

[Dyesuperman]

Why can't you clock the Holset to the same angle that the Turbonetics is there and make the piece of hose longer if necessary? Perhaps I don't understand....unless you're moving the entire placement of the turbo itself- i.e., a different manifold and turbine housing setup.

Well I just read that it isn't good to clock the center housing of the holsets and to have it as straight as possible. Would it be fine since the drain is so large then? It will be the same placement and all, or very close as the exhaust housing, manifold, etc will be the same.

 

[JusMX141]

You can clock it however you want as long as it doesn't exceed 30* from level with the ground. Ten degrees or less is optimal; but keep in mind a 30* clocked housing with the proper-size drain is better than turbo that is perfectly level but has too small of a drain.

 

[Dyesuperman]

You can clock it however you want as long as it doesn't exceed 30* from level with the ground. Ten degrees or less is optimal; but keep in mind a 30* clocked housing with the proper-size drain is better than turbo that is perfectly level but has too small of a drain.

Ok cool, any ideas about the drain fitting on the center housing? Is it safe to grind in order to make it fit or is there a way you have got big fittings to fit with the vband style compressor housing?

 

[JusMX141]

You're going to have a difficult time getting anything larger than a -10AN fitting to fit between the v-band and the drain flange on a H1 turbo. Perhaps you should try something like this at the top with a barb to fit whatever size hose you're using then just slide your hose over and clamp it:

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[turboglenn]

Well H1 thrust plates only have one oiling hole versus two in the HX turbos, so there will be less parasitic drain on the rest of the cartridge from the thrust system. There are a handful of guys with very high oil pressure successfully feeding their Holset from the head....perhaps you should keep that oil pressure gauge in the line just to be on the safe side.

Certain things that are against Holset users who may feed from the head would be if they get the head milled a good amount, or if they're running a 7-bolt head on a 6-bolt block without boring the stud holes. Both of these things can effect the amount of available pressure and volume to keep a Holset alive when fed from the head.

Cool thanks! I am keeping the gauge in place wither way, i just need to buy another length of tubing (lost one whole roll some where) because i plan to mount it in the left over hole in the a-pillar from my EGT going bad

As for the other "bad things" there my head is only milled .007" (machinist only takes off exactly what he needs to - i like this)

And i'm running a 6 bolt head on a 6 bolt block and i lightly ported that oil feed area around the one head bolt last time i did the valve replacement recently

I've put up a pic of a new restrictor system im trying out tomorrow, if that's not enough i'm going to the head with it
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...1-3558x-underway-currently.html#post152868634

 

[red1993gsallmt]

Justin, my holset results aren't so good on the oiling side.

60psi cold idle

30psi hot idle,

60psi hot above 2000 RPM shooting to 72 and pausing there only slightly before breaking into the 80+ range by as early as 4k RPM, and i would imagine just like last time i had a gauge on this car instead of a dummy light, when i'm at 6k and above the gauge is probably at 100psi

there's pics of where my pressure tap is reading from on the install thread latest post (link to single post)
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...1-3558x-underway-currently.html#post152868512

Should i just go back to feeding from the head unrestricted through a -4 line? I mean if my 360* thrust plated garrett lived for 10 years and 110k miles wouldn't the holset reason to do ok as well?

I keep thinking that since 72psi is the "max" i shouldn't have to be anywhere near there on a constant basis just to operate it (my thinking anyway) At the head i get a consistant ~10psi at idle (+/- 2psi) and anytime i rev above the idle range of 1500 RPM i am at 30psi consistantly

You think the 30psi would keep the holset alive at 30-35psi (i doubt i'll ever wring the thing out for all it's worth as i usually don't treat my toys that way, i over build and use to 3/4 potential

I had simalar oil pressures to you and porting didnt help much, but what did work was doing it the old v8 way and clipped a loop or two off the relief spring.

 

[turboglenn]

Justin, My restrictor didn't do a damn thing (.087") so i went to the head and am seeing only 25-27psi under load and 12 psi at idle (was seeing easily 100psi over 5k RPM at OFH)

So i ask you..

should i try clipping the spring on the regulator to lower pressure or try a ported OFH?

if nothing in pressure was changed would you recomend the hot pressures of

12 - 27psi at head

30-100psi at the OFH

thanks
glenn

 

[1990AWD]

what weight of oil are you running Glenn?

 

[turboglenn]

Running 5w30 synthetic

justin..to addto my last post, didn't you say at some point talondave was running unrestricted from the OFH with -4an line? IIRC he doesn't have balance shafts does he? and do you know if he's ported at the OFH also?

 

[pneumo]

No it's not ported, and right now i can't afford to get the gasket kit with the OFH gasket in it if something goes wrong while removing it to install a ported one i have sitting here or to port the one on it.\

What are your thoughts on oiling it from the head.. I have that JDM head pressure regulator, the only model that has a tube protruding off it with a spring, piston and bypass hole like the OFH uses to control pressure.. it's said to be the only one mitsu made that can do the same job as the aftermarket ones like kiggly

The JDM head pressure regulator is a little different, and it's most likely the reason you have low oil pressure from the head. When I checked mine it started bleeding off pressure at 15psi. Have you tried replacing it with a regular, non-bleeder type oil distribution block?

 

[turboglenn]

The JDM head pressure regulator is a little different, and it's most likely the reason you have low oil pressure from the head. When I checked mine it started bleeding off pressure at 15psi. Have you tried replacing it with a regular, non-bleeder type oil distribution block?

I haven't yet but i was thinking about it if i can't get the oil pressure in check.

I wasn't sure wether to try a plain head regtulator or clipping the OFH regulator's spring first..any suggestions?