Questions for Justin...

[JusMX141]

My bad! I was considering the ebay bonehead lines. But I was under the inpression that its better to run the feed lines from the head, and not the oil filter housing, unless you had a restrictor

Definitely use a restrictor if feeding from the filter housing. Bonehead also sells complete head-feed kits as well....be sure to clean out the head oil passage before installing the line as it can get loaded with crap from 17 years of being capped off. Failure to do so may send a ton of crud directly to the turbo as soon as the engine fires.

Youve stated in the holset/garrett oil drain thread that the 2g oil drain is 3/4" OD and .663" ID. Which is pretty damn close to a -12AN correct?! So, wouldnt I for the time being be able to use say the top 1'' of a 2g drain with a 1" hose down to the -12 bung on the oil pan? Then once I make the switch just run a -12 bung from the holset center section?

Army/Navy fittings are in 16ths. A 4AN feed line is 4/16", or 1/4". A 12AN drain is 12/16", or 3/4".

I say do whatever you gotta do- it seems like you're on the right track for sure.

I'm in the middle of tearing down this 14b turbo. After following a few youtube video instructionals and your step by step guide on turbo rebuilds. I seem to have broken the shaft at the nut on the compressor side.

Happens more than you think. I mention in the rebuild guide to be sure to study the threads sticking out to verify their direction....any TD05H turbo can be left- or right-hand threaded.

I have an ebay knock off turbo on my car currently I also have a stock evo 8 turbo sitting infront of me. Will either shaft work as a replacement?

Neither will work. The eBay shaft is the wrong spec, the Evo VIII turbine turns the opposite direction.

 

[Boostdclips99]

Don't like to bump but I think my question was lost in the pictures. Any help?

Purchased a Holset turbo a few months back from a local guy. I bought it thinking it's an 8 blade HX40 but I failed to examine the turbine house and realized it has HX35 turbine wheel. So I apparently have a Hybrid, what are your recommendations for exhaust housing?

I would really like to keep a bolt on with the .55 BEP because of my FP manifold and o2 wastegate, but from what I've read that's not enough flow to take advantage of the compressor wheel

 

[JusMX141]

You basically answered your own question there- without a HX40 turbine wheel you're basically going to have a really laggy HX35 in the bolt-on housing.

 

[1990AWD]

I don't follow Justin, if he has a HX-40 compressor and a HX-35 turbine wouldn't that be like having a 20G TD05?

 

[JusMX141]

We know from past experience that the HX35 turbine wheel, which is around the size of a MHI TD06, is limited to 52-54 lb/min in a Bullseye DSM bolt-on turbine housing....therefore, a 62-64lb/min compressor wheel is completely useless.

 

[1990AWD]

Ahh I see.

 

[turboglenn]

You basically answered your own question there- without a HX40 turbine wheel you're basically going to have a really laggy HX35 in the bolt-on housing.

you really think it should be that laggy? I was amazed with how fast my turbo is spooling in the .63 a/r housing with the hx35 turbine and 8 lade hx40 compressor, i would think that in the .55 BEP he should be right in that same range for x boost by x RPM numbers

I guess spool times are really all relative of a persons expectations and previouse setups in comparison, but when i'm thinking lag i think of the PTE67mm unit which still wasn't that bad but in comparison makes the holset look like a 16g with how fast it comes on.

I'm still seeing 20psi by 4100 in third at the latest (starting at 3500RPM going WOT) and i can see 25psi+ by 4000RPM in 5th at partial throttle on the interstate..all in all it's a lot faster spooling than my 57 trim stage III turbine was

so i guess the main thing i would wonder is what 1990AWD's definition of lag really is
I''m not trying to disagree or just stir the pot with this, just saying with a similar setup i'm impressed with the spool so he may be happy with it as well, but he did say he was concerned with peak airflow being impeded by the smaller turbine

 

[knochgoon24]

Army/Navy fittings are in 16ths. A 4AN feed line is 4/16", or 1/4". A 12AN drain is 12/16", or 3/4".

I say do whatever you gotta do- it seems like you're on the right track for sure.

But even your photos show that a -10an fitting is only 0.525" (-8.4an? and 13.3mm).

This is the reason why, when piecing together my oil drain kit for my HE351ve, I've opted to use a 3/4" NPT to 3/4" barb fitting. Then use a -12an hose to connect it to a 3/4" barb on the oil pan.

I'll have to break out the calipers, but the barb fitting looks pretty close to being near 3/4" on the inside. (3/4" = 19mm = recommended by Holset for those keeping track.)

For the oil pan, I think I'm just going to weld a 3/4" NPT bung on and call it a day.

 

[turboglenn]

for what it's worth ii'm having great luck with a stock 2g drain at the pan that's cut just above the ribbing on it and uses a silicone rubber hose to connect to a t3 style drain flange with the largest copped fitting i could find that threaded into it.. they are ranging around .580 and .635" ID and with an oil feed off the housing that's running right at the maximum pressures and at least the required volume of 2 liters per minute, there's no real restrictor to my setup but the ID of the najo bolt i'm using has it's smallest opening being right at .090".

So for (and for what it's worth) i'm not having any drain issues so nfar but i'm not sustaining boost as long as you might on a longer SCCA track. But i've made puills that would equal a 1/4 mile pull and no smoking or anything to date.

 

[bastarddsm]

We know from past experience that the HX35 turbine wheel, which is around the size of a MHI TD06, is limited to 52-54 lb/min in a Bullseye DSM bolt-on turbine housing....therefore, a 62-64lb/min compressor wheel is completely useless.

You mean its bigger than a TD06H, and near the size of a GT35

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/416410-turbine-sizes.html#post152751035

 

[JusMX141]

But even your photos show that a -10an fitting is only 0.525" (-8.4an? and 13.3mm).

Right- at the fitting. The hose I.D. is 5/8".

You mean its bigger than a TD06H, and near the size of a GT35

Ah you're correct- I had the HY35 turbine spec in my brain for some reason.

 

[knochgoon24]

Yeah. But what I mean is that even a -12an setup wouldn't be the recommended 19mm diameter because of the restrictions in the fittings. That's why I dropped my idea of using -12an fittings in exchange for 3/4" barb fittings.

 

[eclipsemf]

I couldn't seem to find any info on this but was told by some one that this would work. I have a t-28 that needs a new compressor wheel and am having trouble finding a new one for a reasonable price. So I was wondering if any one the the 16g's compressor wheel would be a direct replacement for it, if so I would also have to balance it correct?

Thanks Justin!

 

[JusMX141]

Won't work- the T28 turbine shaft is smaller so the 16G wheel wouldn't fit tightly on the shaft as it should.

 

[genegoesfast]

Justin, I need your help. I am looking at picking up this turbo. I am being told that it's a bw s256 in cat clothing. Turbine 61.5/69.5 compressor 56/80.

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What do you think?

It also cross references to this:
4R9147--------166214----Turbo S2EG070

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The bep housing is for a s256 but with the 74/64 turbine wheel, which the current owner intended on upgrading to.

 

[JusMX141]

That's believable- I know literally nothing about BW turbos and what wheels interchange with what, so your guess is as good as mine. There's a series of Borg turbos that is 100% interchangeable with Garrett T04B's....talk about confusion.

 

[genegoesfast]

Yeah, I'm very confused. Borg Warner is even confused. I called them and they said they're built on the same frame but that the center housings were slightly different. So weird. I think I'm gonna stay away from this one.

 

[907dsm]

Just curious as why are you leary about the turbo?

 

[genegoesfast]

Because I can't find out much about it. I would also probably have a hard time getting parts, i.e. Rebuild kit, wheels etc.... I also desire the performance of the s256 and I'm not sure this would offer the same level of performance.

 

[JusMX141]

Part number should be printed on the back of the wheels, and you can always go by inducer/exducer spec or even just buy the next bigger and get the cover machined / replaced.

I'm under the impression that the entire S200 series uses the same parts kit.

 

[genegoesfast]

The wheels specs match the s256 wheels perfectly, which bep makes a housing for. Technically this isn't a s200 series turbo is what I'm worried about.

 

[genegoesfast]

Alright here's what I picked up. Has virtually zero play but oil everywhere. Picked it up for $75!

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Couple questions:
Looks like the compressor wheel has come in contact with with the compressor cover, though it doesn't look like this is the wheel that did the damage. Is the damage on the compressor cover anything to worry about?

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Second, is there any additional wear I should worry about on the following parts?

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3rd, what parts can I safely media blast. I know I can do the compressor cover. How about wheels and center housing?

4th, do you happen to know what the thread is for inlet? I'm assuming the drain is standard.

Thanks very much for all your help Justin.

 

[JusMX141]

1) Either some of that compressor wheel is ground away from a previous failure, or someone has the wrong center housing in that turbo. There's a substantial gap between the cover and wheel- and the cover is marked "WH1C" which would use a 56mm 8-blade compressor. Your turbo appears to have a 54mm 8-blade compressor from a non-wastegated H1C.

This is further reinforced by the design of the oil inlet on the center housing.....WH1C's had a flange similar to the HX35 on the oil inlet, as displayed on the WH1C in this photo:

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I think someone swapped center housings with the incorrect one after a previous failure. That turbo is not going to be very efficient in it's current form.

2) Everything else looks fine.

3) Blast all you want- just be ready to do some intense cleanup if you blast the center housing.

4) Oil inlet thread will be 12mm x 1.5, the same as all HX turbos.

 

[genegoesfast]

Well that makes sense....I just measured the compressor inducer....sure enough 54mm. The guy that sold me this had a "h1c" sitting right next to it which wouldnt spin and I think it's due to a 54mm cover being jammed on a 56mm compressor wheel. Should I go out of my way to get the real wh1c or just try and swap covers with him? I remember the one I currently have looking to be in better shape. How much flow difference are we talking about? I already have a td05 20g that you built me, I want this to be an upgrade!

 

[JusMX141]

It would make much more financial sense to track down the correct cover for this turbo from the previous owner than to find a 56mm WH1C compressor and have your rotating assembly rebalanced. The only downside to this is the WH1C cover is surge-ported...the H1C cover is not.

You must use a 56mm WH1C compressor on this turbo....a 56mm HX35 compressor will not work as the compressor seal collars are different widths.