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Questions for Justin...

Posted by kidtsi, Feb 19, 2011

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  1. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    Buy the wheel, then do the machining. You can't cut a cover using measurements someone tells you on a forum.

    Lots of Blaster, heat, and a bigger hammer. Be sure to drive it off evenly on both sides or the housing will damage the turbine.
     

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    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    manual · 2G DSM

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    manual · 1G DSM

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    1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
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  2. nfernotalon

    nfernotalon Proven Member

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    Hm do you think my local machine shop will get it off in a more civilized manner? Lol. Or will they resort to beating the crap out of it as well?
     

    661  0

    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 1G DSM
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  3. turbojo

    turbojo Proven Member

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    they will have to beat it off to its not that hard to do just be carefull and do what justin said
     
  4. nfernotalon

    nfernotalon Proven Member

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    So far a 4lb hammer and nothing. This thing must have a million miles especiallyl when 2 bolts broke off the housing when taking them off.
     

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    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 1G DSM
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  5. turbojo

    turbojo Proven Member

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    have you tryd heating it up with a torch:cool:
     
  6. nfernotalon

    nfernotalon Proven Member

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    That's my next move, all I have is a sh**ty propane torch but I'll give her a whirl :pray:

    holset 1.JPG
    Well no luck, been beating with a 4lb hammer and heated it up with the torch not sure whats next. Bigger hammer?:hmm:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

    661  0

    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 1G DSM
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  7. bahamian4g63

    bahamian4g63 Proven Member

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    Next is alot more P.B. blaster. I had the same problem with my h1c, it took lots of blaster and abuse.
     

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    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    manual · 2G DSM

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    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    · 2G DSM
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  8. nfernotalon

    nfernotalon Proven Member

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    Pb blaster it is then I've been spraying it with liquid wrench before I go to work and before I go to bed. Ill grab a can after work. My BEP housing gets here today too not sure if I'll be able to put it on.
     

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    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 1G DSM
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  9. turboglenn

    turboglenn Proven Member

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    YEa, I cast a 2nd vote for PB blaster, keep soaking it down with that stuff, aside from a product i found industrially called "kroil" PB is the best thing average people can buy as far as a penetrating spray.

    Also, it's not so much about large hard hits to the housing but working yuour way around it with a bunch of medium force hits to slowly break the rust free and moving the housing off. My H1c was a bi*** to get apart, I worked on it for about 2 hours with PB and everything from a framing hammer to a 3lb mini-sledge. I just kept the comp cover on to protectthe wheel up front and set it on a block of wood and tapped it pretty hard while rolling it over to work the force equally on all sides.

    once they are apart i like to use sanding discs and other tools to remove all rust from the ring of the CHRA where it goes in the turbine housing as well as removing the rist from the housings little recessed ring.. Cleaning them up to a shiny surface will really help when clocking the turbo while loosely assembled and on the manifold so you cna line everything up
     
  10. nfernotalon

    nfernotalon Proven Member

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    FInally it came off!:D It did put up a fight though. thanks for all the help guys.

    Glenn you werent kidding about about the rust around the CHRA ring, ill have to clean that up like you mentioned.

    heres the after math :hellyeah:
    holset resized.JPG

    holset resized1.JPG

    holset resized 3.JPG
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

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    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 1G DSM
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  11. kongo

    kongo Proven Member

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    new orleans, Louisiana
    Hey Jus, I strip 2 bolts on my compressor cover. They sit next to each other. Can it be repaired or is the cover useless. I have 2 set of brackets that came with my rebuild kit. 1 is a 2 peace 3 bolt and the other is 3 peace 2 bolt.
     

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    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse N/T
    · 2G DSM
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  12. turboglenn

    turboglenn Proven Member

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    You should be able to either Heli-Coil the holes or have them welded shut and re-drill and tap them again. The awesome thing about metal compared to wood when it comes to making a mistake is that it's a case where you can put material back should you remove to much or damage it:D
     
  13. '97boostinGST

    '97boostinGST Proven Member

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    Justin, I have a brand new FP Green I purchased during FP's black Friday sale..it's been roughly 3-4 months in storage inside the original packaging they shipped it. I've only read the first 2 pages of this thread and on the first page you mention not storing the turbo with the turbine wheel facing down because of the "wet" spot. I recently took it out and noticed the fins were a little wet because of storing it this way.
    Like I said, turbo is brand new from FP...is this something to worry about despite you saying that it's not bad if it's a brand new turbo?
     
  14. shredwin

    shredwin Proven Member

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    Hi Justin, I was told my turbo shroud on my Garrret 35R should not be sticking out like this. I believe this happened to people with the FP turbo too. This is coming from someone that saw a pic of my turbo> "On the early style tial anti surge compressor covers the inside rings were pressed in and would slide outwards. You can see on that one where the inside ring sticks out and it creates a gap around the compressor wheel. I sent mine to FP and they pressed it back in and installed a roll stop."

    I called FP and they wanted $45 to press the shroud back in and install a stopper. Do you know of other companies that do this kind of service? Maybe you since you are turbo expert:) $45 seems a bit too high for something that looks like 10-20min job.
    pics
    003-2.jpg

    006.jpg
    and this is what its suppose to look like
    fpgt30turbo.jpg
     

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  15. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    Nope. They'll warranty any problems regardless.

    Local machine shop should be able to help if it's a simple press-job....but don't expect to get away cheaper than what FP quoted you.
     

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    manual · 2G DSM

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  16. shredwin

    shredwin Proven Member

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    Im curious on what this "roll stop" looks like. If I can do it myself for cheaper that would be awesome, I know a friend that could press that back in but the center section will probably work its way back out since it doesn't have that roll stop.:banghead:
     

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    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    12.030 @ 120.54 · 2G DSM
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  17. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    Yeah I have no input on that....I don't really play with ball bearing turbos regardless because they can't be rebuilt.
     

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    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    manual · 2G DSM

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 2G DSM

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    manual · 1G DSM

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  18. turboglenn

    turboglenn Proven Member

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    I think what they meant to say or said was roll-pin, it would be a hold drilled though both the housing and sleeve with a hollow round pin that slit length-wise to allow it to compress when forced into a slighly smaller hole. The compression of it and it's force agaisst the walls of the hole will force it to stay in place.

    I'm sure if you had access to a press, a dill adn a small hammer (and one roll pin - they are bought in packs with many sizes for cheap) then you could press it to where the two outside lips are flush, drill it from the side of the area where the intake bolts on and install the roll pin yourself. Just takesa little confidence and a few tools
     
  19. shredwin

    shredwin Proven Member

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    turboglenn I did manage to push it back into place but its probably gonna work its way back out with out the stopper. I don't think I wanna drill any holes, id rather have FP do it just in case i screw it up. I was hoping it was something that would just press in to keep it from coming out. I appreciate the info though.
     

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    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    12.030 @ 120.54 · 2G DSM
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  20. turboglenn

    turboglenn Proven Member

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    WEll, if youn can get it back out youn could always put some loc-tite "stud and bearing formula" on it. it's meant for press in seats and holds quite well, I use it to secure the one way bearings in a 2 speed transmission i make for large scale RC gas cars, and even at a peak 7hp on a bearing only 3/4inch in diameter i've never had one slip when using this loc-tite fluid.

    YOu can find it at any parts store usually. Just apply it to the surface that actually presses against the main housingwhere ever they contact and let it dry over night. You should be good to go with that alone really
     
  21. bradikus7

    bradikus7 Proven Member

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    Justin, I am in the process of testing oil pressure at my Hx35. I started off with -4an restricted to my surprise I was only at about 5PSI warm at idle. When free revving the motor it wouldn't go passed 25PSI. I have taken out the restrictor and it is around 8-12PSI now at idle. When free revving we are getting about 40PSI. I don't know how I can test under load with this mechanical gauge. What are your opinions?

    Update, I rigged up the gauge under my wiper blade and took her for a spin. I can't really go WOT because my clutch is slipping (changing next Saturday) but slowly going up to about 6500 I'm seeing about 42psi. I can't see it going all that much higher once i'm able to go WOT but will be testing it again once my SBC clutch is broken in properly. I would just like to know what you think. I also plan on going to Brad Penn 20-50 at my next oil change. How much do you think that will affect pressure? I appreciate your advice and thanks in advance man.
     
  22. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    Something's wrong if you're not seeing over 42psi unrestricted from the filter housing. :confused:

    By the way- engine speed has a direct effect on oil pressure; load does not. Doesn't matter if you're driving or free-revving when checking pressure...although the final measurement should be taken with the engine at full operating temperature.
     

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    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    manual · 2G DSM

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 2G DSM

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    manual · 1G DSM

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    manual · 1G DSM
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  23. bradikus7

    bradikus7 Proven Member

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    Well I don't know what else I can do? Maybe a heavier oil? I probably have a dying oil pump :(
     
  24. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    ...or an inaccurate gauge. Hard to say- but 48psi is nowhere near what peak pressure should be for a 4G63 at the filter housing. Most guys have a hard time getting below 80psi.
     

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    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    manual · 2G DSM

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 2G DSM

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    1992 Eagle Talon TSi
    manual · 1G DSM

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    manual · 1G DSM
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  25. turboglenn

    turboglenn Proven Member

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    I would suggest replacing/rebuilding the oil pump ASAP. I also recomend using ONLY genuine mitsubishi parts on such a vital item.. While you're in there might as well do a water pump swap (again a real mitsu one will last damn near 100kmiles while parts store units are good for about 20-30k if you're lucky)

    If you haven't done a BSE, nows also the time to at least do it the easy way and order the stub shaft for the oil pumpside and you can just pull the belt to the other shaft if you don't want to get in there and put some bearings in spun out of alignment.

    Doing a BSE will also raise your pressure some and before long you'll be like the rest of us fighting to port the OFH or clipping thye spring to try and get pressures under 80 to 100psi at anything over 5k RPM

    BUt i have to agree with justin, unlesssome one has already been in there modifying the housing or spring to lower the pressure, there's definitely a failure taking place at the oil pump and it's something to not put off for any longer than you have to in order to get the parts and tear the car apart to put them in, otherwise you might find yourseld doing an engine rebuild/replacement
     

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