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Questions for Justin...

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Well what I'm saying is I think the turbo still sitting at his shop is the actual wh1c with a h1c cover shoved on it. I'm wondering if it's worth it to try to get the real wh1c or just try to get the h1c cover from him.
 
Would you want a turbo that some asshat pounded the incorrect cover on? I wouldn't. I'd opt to get the right cover for this one over any other option involving the previous owner.

Not to mention the WH1C likely has compressor damage already by the looks of the backside of this cover.
 
You're going from a 52.5mm/68mm compressor to a 54mm/83mm compressor with a larger turbine as well. It's an obvious upgrade to something in the realm of a T04E50 Garrett with better durability and a cheaper price tag. :thumb:
 
Simple question but you've problably gotten worse.

I'm thinking about buying this 16g. I dont know crap about turbos as I am learning, I'm rebuilding a 14b for my stock GSX setup, but I'm thinking about bolting this one on and zoom zoom.

Is it legit?
16G Turbo (Pics Added)$$Drop
 
I'm replacing the t25 witth a stock setup with a 14b. If the housings are similar, can't I just use the stock oil and coolant feed and return lines? Along with the stock manifold
 
I'm replacing the t25 witth a stock setup with a 14b. If the housings are similar, can't I just use the stock oil and coolant feed and return lines? Along with the stock manifold

This is probably the #1 most done turbo swap, all you need to do is search.

Since that must too difficult, what you'll want to get a 1g oil feed line, modify your 2g drain or get a 1g drain, and get a new j-pipe. Or get an install kit like this.
 
Didn't want to make a thread for this, so here is a tribute and proof of justin and his knowledge. My first self rebuilt 14b.

TY Justin.
Also big thanks to John on big island!
 

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Another question, I'm doing my holset rebuild and I've run into a couple things.

When installing the turbine wheel/shaft I bent one side of the ring slightly. I took it back off and bent it back straight and installed it by compressing it a little bit with a tiny pair of tweezers and it popped right in. Did having bent the ring a bit ruin it?

Second thing, my thrust collar will not slide down the turbine shaft easily at all. It goes down about half the way and then I have to use the hollow handle of a bit driver to tap it down. Is this right?

3rd, I'm seeing instructions to line up alignment marks on thrust collar and turbine shaft along with the compressor wheel. There aren't alignment marks on anything. I scribed the nut to the compressor wheel before I took it apart and that's all I have. How big a deal are the trust collar/turbine wheel alignment marks?

Thanks for reading all that!
 
Just for reference the Borg warner/Schweitzer parts are not all that interchangeable. I had 3 S200 series turbos and all were different rebuild kits and wheels. Two of the turbos had the same turbine wheel dimensions as they were both in my BEP mitsu housing back in the day 67/76mm. And even the 2 wheels that were the same blade dimensions were completely different shaft sizes diameter and length.

I have never seen a company that changes the internal parts so much. 3 different thrust systems shaft sizes and diameters. I even had a BW366 and it was different as well.
 
When installing the turbine wheel/shaft I bent one side of the ring slightly. I took it back off and bent it back straight and installed it by compressing it a little bit with a tiny pair of tweezers and it popped right in. Did having bent the ring a bit ruin it?
If you bend a piston ring when installing a piston into a cylinder, would you risk it? I probably wouldn't unless I knew for sure it still sealed perfectly around the entire radius.
Second thing, my thrust collar will not slide down the turbine shaft easily at all. It goes down about half the way and then I have to use the hollow handle of a bit driver to tap it down. Is this right?
Nope- something's wrong with the collar...most likely overheated and swelled from excessive thrust wear. Nothing that will cause anything bad to happen during operation if the turbo's alreay together- there's just a higher risk that the thrust collar will split the next time it sees heat from thrust wear or lack of lubrication. They can only expand so far once they're heated, then they split.
3rd, I'm seeing instructions to line up alignment marks on thrust collar and turbine shaft along with the compressor wheel. There aren't alignment marks on anything. I scribed the nut to the compressor wheel before I took it apart and that's all I have. How big a deal are the trust collar/turbine wheel alignment marks?
Those marks are only on the assembly-balanced turbos with a 6-point compressor nut. If you marked them and everything realigns, you're probably OK.
 
What the heck do I do about this? Shave the fitting down? Try a 45 degree npt fitting?
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Sent from my phone fool.
 
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Grind one side of the fitting flat, best I remember mine took just a bit of grinding
 
justin can you tell me the specs of what i need to machine my hx40 compressure cover to the stock wheel is 58 /86 and i want swap it want a six blade 60 /86 wheel and also can you post some pics of the compressure cover machining processe
 
Hey Justin I bought a used h1c and I'm going to use the BEP bolt on housing on it but I can't get the exhaust housing off I've been tapping it with a hammer all around and doesn't budge! Any tips or tricks? I sprayed liquid wrench all around te outside and let it soak an nothing. I don't want to hit it too hard and mess something up.
 
Here's what I came up with.
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Sent from my phone fool.
 
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