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Questions for Justin...

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I currently have a -10an oil return kit on my HX35 which worries me. I was thinking of locating a factory drain tube, cutting it attaching some hose, re install the factory 2G oil drain line, cutting it and connecting the two with some hose clamps. Obviously this isn't ideal for the 19mm I.D. but do you think that would work out ok?

Also do you have any of those return tubes or know where I can get one?

Second thought is I have a spare oil pan that I could possibly have -12an fitting welded to and then swap them out but that seems like A LOT of extra work. Thoughts...
 
Hope more come up, I am able to only upload 1 image at a time dont know why,
anyways it is what it is.

I would like to hear your comments on the use of this in a road race car, not looking to make more than 350hp at the most, head will be done and it will be a 2.3 in a very light car.
 

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I currently have a -10an oil return kit on my HX35 which worries me. I was thinking of locating a factory drain tube, cutting it attaching some hose, re install the factory 2G oil drain line, cutting it and connecting the two with some hose clamps. Obviously this isn't ideal for the 19mm I.D. but do you think that would work out ok?
If the -10AN seems to be working for you, I wouldn't change it. At the most I'd funnel the hole in the turbo flange so there's not such an abrupt change in drain hole size between the outlet of the turbo and inlet of the drain.

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Hope more come up, I am able to only upload 1 image at a time dont know why,
anyways it is what it is.

I would like to hear your comments on the use of this in a road race car, not looking to make more than 350hp at the most, head will be done and it will be a 2.3 in a very light car.
Search around for Small 16G results- it's a very quick-spooling 36 lb/min turbo; I think it will do just fine in the 300-320hp range but you may need a large intercooler or meth injection if you want to push the compressor very far beyond it's map.
 
If the -10AN seems to be working for you, I wouldn't change it. At the most I'd funnel the hole in the turbo flange so there's not such an abrupt change in drain hole size between the outlet of the turbo and inlet of the drain.

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Well my kit came with the nylon braided hose which is easier to work with but at the same time I think that is bad for it. There is a slight kink in the line and I can't get it worked out no matter what I do. I bought all of the stuff to check oil pressure at the turbo and I'm gonna do that this weekend.

I guess we'll see.
 
Well my kit came with the nylon braided hose which is easier to work with but at the same time I think that is bad for it. There is a slight kink in the line and I can't get it worked out no matter what I do. I bought all of the stuff to check oil pressure at the turbo and I'm gonna do that this weekend.

I guess we'll see.

Have you tried putting a small hose clamp around the kink? Sometimes it works on small kinks, just tighten it enough to squeeze it out.
 
I have a H1E that i bought off here a while back. I think during shipping a couple of the exhaust fins got bent. So I tried my best and i bent them back. My question is, does it look to bad to run or should i just run it. I really dont care to much about the turbo because I traded a 16g that I had sitting around for it so i diden't really spend anything and all its doing now is being a giant paper weight. Here is a picture.

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Thanks
 
any idea if a $200 hta68 with a trashed compressor wheel is worth rebuilding? I know FP would charge an arm and a leg.
 

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I have a H1E that i bought off here a while back. I think during shipping a couple of the exhaust fins got bent. So I tried my best and i bent them back. My question is, does it look to bad to run or should i just run it. I really dont care to much about the turbo because I traded a 16g that I had sitting around for it so i diden't really spend anything and all its doing now is being a giant paper weight. Here is a picture.

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Thanks
Unfortunately if you attempt to straighten bent turbine fins, they almost always break off during one of the first loaded heat cycles in the turbo. Pretty safe to say you need to replace the turbine in that unit.

any idea if a $200 hta68 with a trashed compressor wheel is worth rebuilding? I know FP would charge an arm and a leg.
I'm guessing based on the cost of other billet compressors, they're going to want $400+ just for the wheel....more for a VSR rebalance.

A 68HTA with wheel damage is basically the same as any other Big 16G with the same damage. I'd buy a 20G compressor wheel/cover kit from eBay or something if you're looking for a budget job.
 
I found a BB garret gt28..It looks loke a downfiring compressor which is fine I guess.

My question in lies with the hotside.The exhast WG side is 5 bolt.Is there a new turbing housing on the market for a dsm flanged hotside to o2 setup. Or is there a company that makes the 5 bolt o2 housing, so that is basically bolt on with the 5 bolt o2 part?
 
Be careful buying parts depending what turbine housing it has- there are T2 and T3 flanged inlets with various outlets. If it's a T2 inlet flange, you'll never find a manifold to work so all the time you'll put into finding an o2 housing will go down the shitter.

The other option would be to get a DSM T25 turbine housing machined to accept whatever turbine it uses, turning it into a DSM bolt-on turbo. PM me if you want a T25 turbine housing- I have lots. LOL
 
Well I would have more pictures that would help you out,but my damm phone is having a hissy fit right now..

On garrets website they offer like 4 gt28's..There was one that looked like a dsm flanged housing..But the others were the 5 bolt..

So really If it doesn'e bolt onto the manifold.It would be a pain to find the 5 bolt flanges o2 housing gotcha..

So then that leaves me back at getting a t25 housing, getting it machined and boom, direct bolt on..

The reason I ask Is because it's stupid cheap..If my phone was working I would find out if it was a knockoff or real..
 
Hey justin a buddy of mine are building upgrading a gsx and he is wondering if the our hx40 needs a inline filter. Car is in ga so we are piecing together. Thanks.

We have a fored piston engine built, but need to know where to source the oil feed too.
 
A cheap ball bearing turbo would throw up a red flag. Keep in mind a ball bearing turbo cannot be rebuilt and often shows absolutely no sign of bearing failure until you put it on the car and it only makes 6psi.

So the wiggle test and in and out wiggle test will tell me nothing?
 
Hey justin a buddy of mine are building upgrading a gsx and he is wondering if the our hx40 needs a inline filter.
Only if you think the engine has potential to put contaminated oil through the turbo.
We have a fored piston engine built, but need to know where to source the oil feed too.
Look at the Holset FAQ at the top of the Turbo Tech forum; study the recommended oil pressures, base your oil source and possible restriction on what's recommended versus your actual pressure.
So the wiggle test and in and out wiggle test will tell me nothing?
Only that there are bearings present- won't tell you if they're any good.

Ball bearing turbos have no thrust system, so the in/out test is useless.
 
Since finding out the turbo I had was a small 16g, 05200 I was given another one by a friend same numbers, but the compressor side measures 49.31 mm. and the other I have it measures 47.27 mm. any reason for them being different.

Thanks
 
I'll give you the inch measurements on exducer and inducer for small, big and evo3..You convert it and then post back if you think you are doing it wrong.

Small 16g inducer 1.830..Exducer 2.365.

Big 16g inducer 1.892.Exducer 2.680

Evo 3 inducer 1.902.Exducer 2.680
 
I'll give you the inch measurements on exducer and inducer for small, big and evo3..You convert it and then post back if you think you are doing it wrong.

Small 16g inducer 1.830..Exducer 2.365.

Big 16g inducer 1.892.Exducer 2.680

Evo 3 inducer 1.902.Exducer 2.680

I am actually measuring the ID of the pipe that leads to comp wheel one is 1.940 the other is 1.849.

Hope this helps.
 
Since finding out the turbo I had was a small 16g, 05200 I was given another one by a friend same numbers, but the compressor side measures 49.31 mm. and the other I have it measures 47.27 mm. any reason for them being different.

Thanks
Never judge a book by it's cover. Small 16G's are probably the most-upgraded OEM turbo for our car.

Even if the number tells you it's a Small 16G, there could be anything beneath. :sneaky:

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Torque specs for the compressor nut on a hx40?
124 inch/lbs, as described in the Service Data Sheet.

In reference to this thread, what are the oiling requirements and/or known issues with PTE 6262 turbos?
Oiling requirement should be the same as any journal bearing T3 turbo- 35-65psi operating pressure, unobstructed drain, etc.

Concerning known issues...it's a PTE. That entire company has issues. ROFL


...although in their defense, I do see where the O.P. mentions something about using lots of RTV to get the drain to seal, and you're never supposed to use RTV on oil drains. We know what that probably looks like. LOL

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