1G Question about removing transmission on 1G

[Mech Addict]

Do post updates with how the tranny R&R goes to this thread. I may likely do the same job in the Spring. I would likely ship the trans to a specialist, but all the rest, with clutch replacement, seems like a big job for me.

 

[XC92]

I don't have air tools but I do have a decent battery-powered impact wrench that usually gets the job done. "Only" 300 ft-lb but that's enough for most car-related tasks. In any case it was enough to remove both axle nuts, and what do you know, I was able to push the CV axle inward with my fingers without a problem. I expected major rust and seizing but luckily this was not the case on either one. Most likely when I last had the clutch replaced or had some other front-end work done that requiring removing the CV axle from the hub they applied anti-seize on the splines, per proper procedure. Anyway, I'm good.

Well, sort of. I totally messed up both inner hex nuts trying to remove the "pillow box" style sway bar links from the control arm, and am not sure what to do. The FSM procedure calls for using 2 wrenches, one to secure the rather thin inner nut and the other to remove the outer locknut. That's what I did, but the inner nut got rounded because the outer nut got stuck on the threads and wouldn't budge, and using a locking adjustable wrench and vice grips to hold onto the inner nut didn't help.

Looks like I'm going to have to cut the think out. Ideally I'd cut both nuts out and maybe be able to reuse the link, but most likely I'm going to have to cut the stud and install a new link. They're not that expensive, about $16 each. Not sure why the outer locknut got stuck. Perhaps someone cross-threaded it in the past, or banged hard on the stud end for some reason and mushroomed it.

This is the part I'm thinking of getting to replace it:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1005803&cc=1103094&jsn=520

Should I go OEM instead? I like this design better as it provides longer wrench flats on the inner nut, and comes with zerk fittings in case I ever want to relube.

Still, I'd much rather have this problem than a stuck CV axle. Been there, it's a nightmare to remove.

Do post updates with how the tranny R&R goes to this thread. I may likely do the same job in the Spring. I would likely ship the trans to a specialist, but all the rest, with clutch replacement, seems like a big job for me.

Will do. When I first thought of doing this a few years ago, to save money (a local AAMCO wanted $3k for it alone, and the car needed other work), it seemed WAY beyond my abilities and laughable to even consider. This is part of the reason it's sat in a driveway for several years (the other was not being able to justify the expense of repairs and I had another car for daily use).

But after doing a fair amount of work on two other cars I realized that I could probably do it, with some guidance. And, frankly, I've been putting it off even now and gradually getting to it, as it still seems a bit daunting (along with some trans issues I need to fix). I had to unseize the rear brakes anyway and figured while I'm there I might as well derust and paint everything there, which took a while.

Now I'm doing this with the front brakes and suspension, but I'm going to try to do both at the same time since the front end is up anyway. I haven't ordered a clutch kit yet and won't until I drop the trans and see how bad it is and what else needs to be done, and while I'm waiting for it to arrive I'll finish work on the front suspension, which I just started today.

I'm going to take everything apart, derust, paint and replace parts as needed. Still not sure about the strut assembly. Might be a good idea to replace it but costs are piling up and I might put it off till spring and the worst of the snow and salt-related potholes are covered up.

 

[Mech Addict]

I just installed those same links, they fit perfectly. You can acces the zerks easily while installed. Moog is a well respected brand for suspension parts.

 

[XC92]

I just installed those same links, they fit perfectly. You can acces the zerks easily while installed. Moog is a well respected brand for suspension parts.

Thanks, good to know. Why did you replace them, same issue as mine, or the old ones were shot? Perhaps I did it wrong, but I think the stud end was just messed up and there was no way to get the locknut off. Thankfully I have a hacksaw and rotary tool and between the two should able to get it off. I've actually installed Moogs before, outer tie rods on a different car. Seemed good quality, also had zerks.

 

[pauleyman]

I don't have air tools but I do have a decent battery-powered impact wrench that usually gets the job done. "Only" 300 ft-lb but that's enough for most car-related tasks. In any case it was enough to remove both axle nuts, and what do you know, I was able to push the CV axle inward with my fingers without a problem. I expected major rust and seizing but luckily this was not the case on either one. Most likely when I last had the clutch replaced or had some other front-end work done that requiring removing the CV axle from the hub they applied anti-seize on the splines, per proper procedure. Anyway, I'm good.

Well, sort of. I totally messed up both inner hex nuts trying to remove the "pillow box" style sway bar links from the control arm, and am not sure what to do. The FSM procedure calls for using 2 wrenches, one to secure the rather thin inner nut and the other to remove the outer locknut. That's what I did, but the inner nut got rounded because the outer nut got stuck on the threads and wouldn't budge, and using a locking adjustable wrench and vice grips to hold onto the inner nut didn't help.

Looks like I'm going to have to cut the think out. Ideally I'd cut both nuts out and maybe be able to reuse the link, but most likely I'm going to have to cut the stud and install a new link. They're not that expensive, about $16 each. Not sure why the outer locknut got stuck. Perhaps someone cross-threaded it in the past, or banged hard on the stud end for some reason and mushroomed it.

This is the part I'm thinking of getting to replace it:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1005803&cc=1103094&jsn=520

Should I go OEM instead? I like this design better as it provides longer wrench flats on the inner nut, and comes with zerk fittings in case I ever want to relube.

Still, I'd much rather have this problem than a stuck CV axle. Been there, it's a nightmare to remove.

You can't cut the inner nut. It's not a nut. It's part of the stud. If you can't hold it cut it out and replace.

 

[Mech Addict]

Sounds like we’re on the same program when it comes to repairing/ restoring our cars. My links were just worn, but came off just fine. I also debate frequently with myself how far to go beyond only the minimum needed repairs “while its apart”, because the car is old, was likely abused a bit, and I want to keep it as long as I can and have it run well. But I admit this justifies my “addiction”!

 

[XC92]

You can't cut the inner nut. It's not a nut. It's part of the stud. If you can't hold it cut it out and replace.

You mean cut out the stud and replace the whole dual-ball joint link, right? That's my plan. It's old and I don't like old things. Oh, wait, I'm kind of old, as is my car...

Btw, since I'm taking everything apart, how do I tell if the bushings need replacement? 28 years, 78k miles, never raced, driven somewhat hard but not excessively. The full set is around $60 at RockAuto:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1137346&cc=1103094&jsn=518

Might as well, or save my money?

Sounds like we’re on the same program when it comes to repairing/ restoring our cars. My links were just worn, but came off just fine. I also debate frequently with myself how far to go beyond only the minimum needed repairs “while its apart”, because the car is old, was likely abused a bit, and I want to keep it as long as I can and have it run well. But I admit this justifies my “addiction”!

Well, to me it comes down to how bad a part is and how much money and time I'm able and willing to put into it. Given all the work my car needs, none of it too major (e.g. blown head gasket, thrown rods, shot rear diff, etc.), it would simply be too much for me to fix it all in one pass, financially and time and effort-wise. I'm going to take care of what needs to be done to get it street legal and operative again, and a bit more, and the rest I'll probably get to over the next year or so.

Like, I completely derusted, primed and cleaned the rear suspension, but on the car, and at some point I'd like to remove the individual components and see if anything needs replacement, e.g. ball joints, struts, etc., and derust and clean what I couldn't reach with them on the car.

I'd also like to derust and paint everything else back there, like the tailpipe & muffler, rear diff & carrier, subframe, gas tank, etc. Same on the front end, sides, pinch welds, etc. But there can wait till later this year or spring (it's pretty miserable working on the car during winter here in NYC, too cold and wet).

So, for now, clutch, brakes, suspension, trans, and when that's done the timing belt, which is overdue.

 

[pauleyman]

You mean cut out the stud and replace the whole dual-ball joint link, right? That's my plan. It's old and I don't like old things. Oh, wait, I'm kind of old, as is my car...

Btw, since I'm taking everything apart, how do I tell if the bushings need replacement? 28 years, 78k miles, never raced, driven somewhat hard but not excessively. The full set is around $60 at RockAuto:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1137346&cc=1103094&jsn=518

Might as well, or save my money?

Yes the whole link.
On the bushings I wouldn't buy just the control arms. If you're going to do it get the kit for the whole car. At 78k you shouldn't *need* them. Highly subjective word.

 

[XC92]

Yes the whole link.
On the bushings I wouldn't buy just the control arms. If you're going to do it get the kit for the whole car. At 78k you shouldn't *need* them. Highly subjective word.

Not sure what you mean. I wasn't going to replace the arms, just derust and paint them. I'm thinking of replacing the bushings and maybe ball joint, along with the link.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I went down the rabbit hole and painted everything and replaced bushings up front. It feel nice when I’m on the creeper under my car now

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[pauleyman]

Not sure what you mean. I wasn't going to replace the arms, just derust and paint them. I'm thinking of replacing the bushings and maybe ball joint, along with the link.

energy suspension makes a whole car bushing kit. Cheaper than doing it a little at a time unless you didint' want to do the others.
Come to think of it...that may be 2g only. It's been 20 years since I did a 1g. You'll have to go look.

 

[XC92]

I went down the rabbit hole and painted everything and replaced bushings up front. It feel nice when I’m on the creeper under my car now

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Nice job. I did a similar thing on the rear end, only without taking anything out. On the front I'm taking nearly everything off and doing it right. I'll probably do that on the rear eventually. What did you coat it all with, in terms of rust protection, primer, paint, etc.?

energy suspension makes a whole car bushing kit. Cheaper than doing it a little at a time unless you didint' want to do the others.
Come to think of it...that may be 2g only. It's been 20 years since I did a 1g. You'll have to go look.

I didn't see one for the whole car, but I'll look. $50 seems reasonable for just the front, though.

 

[We're on Boost]

Yes that's the one I am using. I don't know if they still sell it. I got it from Amazon many years ago.

Thanks, yes they do, and they are still using the same picture! Which is how I found it (right click, search google for image) (in Chrome).

https://www.amazon.com/STKUSA-Motorcycle-Scissor-Dolly-Wheels/dp/B07CV56C22/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&qid=1602134468&refinements=p_89:STKUSA&s=automotive&sr=1-2

There are some good customer photos there too that give a good idea of the size of the thing.

 

[DSMPT]

Thanks, yes they do, and they are still using the same picture! Which is how I found it (right click, search google for image) (in Chrome).

https://www.amazon.com/STKUSA-Motorcycle-Scissor-Dolly-Wheels/dp/B07CV56C22/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&qid=1602134468&refinements=p_89:STKUSA&s=automotive&sr=1-2

There are some good customer photos there too that give a good idea of the size of the thing.

The size of that motorcycle jack is like you can stably put a trans on and if you jack up the front of car a bit higher, you can slide the trans in from the side by using the dolly that comes with the jack. (Actually that dolly helps me a lot) But I have a tubular front crossmember, so I have a bit more room than usual. The MAX height is enough to line up with the block.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Nice job. I did a similar thing on the rear end, only without taking anything out. On the front I'm taking nearly everything off and doing it right. I'll probably do that on the rear eventually. What did you coat it all with, in terms of rust protection, primer, paint, etc.?



I didn't see one for the whole car, but I'll look. $50 seems reasonable for just the front, though.

I sanded most of the rust off but obviously some areas are hard to get to. Loctite rust neutralizer, self etching primer and vht chassis enamel. With loctite, it needs 24 hour cure time.

Por15 is probably the better choice other than powder coating and for the hard to reach areas, I used a dremel with a small pointy stone that worked really well.

 

[XC92]

I used much the same methods. No sanding, but scrapers, abrasive and wire wheels on a drill, then grinding wheels on a drill, then grinding wheels on a rotary tool, along with Evaporust and several phosphoric acid-based removers. Then I cleaned it all with degreaser, water, brake cleaner and rubbing alcohol, let it dry, then primed with rust reformer, then semi-gloss Rustoleum.

It's amazing and strangely satisfying to see how much embedded rust the little rotary tool grinding wheels can get off the parts. Rust is nasty and gets everywhere.

On the front end I'm going to try rusty metal primer and flat paint instead. I understand that rust reformer isn't really suited for when you got most of the rust off and there's just a little left. On the calipers I just used Rustoluem caliper paint, no primer. Can't wait to get it all back on the car.

Yes, that looks like mine. The other tool you showed is what the FSM recommends, but on my car I never needed it. I think I used a 2-jaw puller on the hub, but it hardly took much to free.

The harder job is getting that axle nut loose. It takes 150~180lbft to tighten, so more like 2xx to loosen! My first attempt was using a 4’ pry bar between some lug bolts; got the nut loose, but bent two lugs And had to replace them (which isn’t that bad). There is a tool that RTM and others sell that has two holes on an arm for holding the hub while turning, though I made my own from some sturdy oak I already had lying around. Best is to loosen them before raising the car with a helper on the brakes.

I just saw this. I've always used an impact wrench. Gets it every time and you don't have to remember to do it with the wheels still on the ground or risk damaging the studs with a pry bar. Just make sure to apply lots of penetrating oil before attempting it. 300 ft-lb should suffice.

 

[Chris072901]

Is there a difference between the auto ignition and manual ignition set up? I have to order a new assembly for my car and i found one but it came from an auto and i want to make sure before i buy it. I put a new ignition switch and lock cylinder but the shaft that goes into the switch moves back and forth due to hammering im assuming so the key just spins left to right and doesnt actually turn the switch, thanks

 

[Mech Addict]

Is there a difference between the auto ignition and manual ignition set up? I have to order a new assembly for my car and i found one but it came from an auto and i want to make sure before i buy it. I put a new ignition switch and lock cylinder but the shaft that goes into the switch moves back and forth due to hammering im assuming so the key just spins left to right and doesnt actually turn the switch, thanks

You maybe meant this for some other thread, as it seems off-topic, but I imagine they would be a little different since autos have an interlock? My car is a manual, so I’m not really sure.

 

[XC92]

energy suspension makes a whole car bushing kit. Cheaper than doing it a little at a time unless you didint' want to do the others.
Come to think of it...that may be 2g only. It's been 20 years since I did a 1g. You'll have to go look.

Looks like ES makes replacement bushings for everything on the 1G's except the rear subframe. Not sure why. But, RTM makes their own set, but it's pricey. I think it's well over $100.

 

[pauleyman]

Thought i should add. Es bushings come with some lubricant. Use it liberally but be prepared with stuff to clean up. This stuff is nasty and does not come off your hands. Solvent takes it off but a towel won't. I just finished my 4runner today. I hurt everywhere.
I'm probably going to die of cancer also from all the brakleen use over the years.

 

[XC92]

Can I use disposable gloves to spread it, and if so nitrile, latex, nylon, etc.?

 

[pauleyman]

Can I use disposable gloves to spread it, and if so nitrile, latex, nylon, etc.?

Oh sure. I may have overstated. Its nasty but not THAT nasty. Gloves wouldn't be a terrible idea but i can tell you there's no way to avoid getting this stuff all over the part and your hands. It's like getting molasses all over but it doesn't wash off with soap and water. Hands just stay sticky until you use a solvent cleaner. You'll see what i mean when you use it. Has the consistently of silicone caulk.

 

[XC92]

I've found that brake cleaner gets most anything off. But, it's also nasty stuff. IIRC, if heated, it turns into phosgene gas, which is extremely deadly and has no know antidote. Or is that phosphoric acid?

Anyway, I'll use gloves and be very careful. Maybe even 2 pairs, disposables on top of thin work gloves.

Meanwhile, 2 days of rain have delayed things. I turned it into an advantage by cleaning the underside, but I really do want to take the rest of the parts off and actually, you know, FIX things.

 

[We're on Boost]

If it turns out that you super hate the ES rubber lubricant (I have no idea I've never seen the stuff) you could consider using Molykote 111 Compound which has been my favorite rubber lubricant for a long time. It is thick but I don't consider it to be nasty. Just very slippery and very water repellant. It is a type of silicone compound. Totally non-curing. It will stay for decades just the way it comes out of the tube. It used to be called Dow Corning 111 Compound. Same exact stuff. You can buy it from industrial supply houses, and from Amazon of course, :
https://www.amazon.com/Corning-Molykote-Compound-5-3oz-150grams/dp/B002WDU1J8
But I suppose Plan A would be to use the stuff that actually comes with the bushings.

 

[XC92]

If it turns out that you super hate the ES rubber lubricant (I have no idea I've never seen the stuff) you could consider using Molykote 111 Compound which has been my favorite rubber lubricant for a long time. It is thick but I don't consider it to be nasty. Just very slippery and very water repellant. It is a type of silicone compound. Totally non-curing. It will stay for decades just the way it comes out of the tube. It used to be called Dow Corning 111 Compound. Same exact stuff. You can buy it from industrial supply houses, and from Amazon of course, :
https://www.amazon.com/Corning-Molykote-Compound-5-3oz-150grams/dp/B002WDU1J8
But I suppose Plan A would be to use the stuff that actually comes with the bushings.

Well, if it's super nasty I can always use it as a desert topping or smear it on the windshield of someone who blocks my car with their car. But, thanks for the tip.