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1G Question about removing transmission on 1G

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XC92

Proven Member
1,570
357
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
I'm about to drop the trans on my '92 Talon TSi AWD to replace the clutch and fix a shifting issue. The car is parked in a driveway with the passenger side pretty close to a wall, around 18-24", enough room for me to remove the wheel and work on the knuckle and everything else there, but still a bit tight (the driveway is shared with the building next over and I want to stay well on my side of the dividing line).

The front end and is on jack stands, on the next to lowest ratchet setting, each on the front pinch weld lift points. When I drop the trans, should I be able to pull it out from the front, or does it need to come out through the passenger side? If it's the front I'm good, but if it's the passenger side, I might not have enough room and will need to lower the car, move it further away from the wall, and raise it again.

I'm guessing it's through the front, but just want to make sure before I'm in a situation where I have to put everything back together again just to move the car left a foot or two.
 
Thanks. I'm hoping to take out all the suspension and driveline parts on each side, e.g. hubs, knuckles, axles, control arms, etc., plus the plastic covers, as they really need a good derusting, cleaning and painting and it's a lot easier with them off the car, so I was probably going to have the opening on the right side to move the trans out, but not the clearance because of the wall, unless I moved the car, which I really want to avoid doing. Looks like I won't have to after all, which is fine by me.
 
You want to jack up the car as high as you can. Like Vegas said, it comes out the front. Side is possible too just an FYI. I find it easier to remove the lower radiator hose too especially when reinstalling it. Using a floor jack sucks. Hoist with a one single chain is the easiest imo.
 
Tony/Nick, do you guys hoist the transmission then drop her out the bottom? I have to yank the auto out of my 92 Talon and am "prepping" for the job to come.
Just for clarity is why I ask.
@XC92, I have removed my 5 speeds before and didn't have to bust the ball joint loose, just loosen the rear control arm mount and tie rod and you can pivot it out far enough to pull the axle out if you need to leave stuff together. Just one way of saving some steps is all.
 
I only remove the tie rod and unbolt the bottom of strut. Them swing the knuckle towards the front to remove the axle. D/s is a little tight though but doable. I used to use a ratchet strap but that sucks since there’s two points that the trans swings on. Much easier to use a single chain to the tall 17mm threaded hole. I do SLIGHTLY raise the trans on the hoist just enough so there’s no stress on the threads/bolts to the block. I use this threaded hole

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Thanks for the picture and clarification for all Tony! :thumb:
 
I have always mounted/dropped engine and trans alone, have tried many type of jacks and engine hoists. So far the best for me to mount/drop the trans is by a motorcycle jack lift. To mount the trans got so much easier since I got it. No more hassle and back pain.
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I can drop a trans in about 1.5 hours back with nothing more than handtools. The only thing I touch suspension wise is unbolting the two strut bolts That’s it. It all swings out far enough to be out of the way.
 
Thanks all. Only reason I'm thinking of removing the knuckle and control arm is to derust, clean and paint them. After 28 years they're pretty nasty and could stand some rust-proofing. Since I have to drop the trans anyway, might as well do both.

I assume that to properly remove the control arm ball joint from the knuckle (NOT from the control arm itself), I need to untighten the ball joint stud then hit the side of the knuckle to release it? Or do I have to actually press on it, and if so with what? I understand that a pickle fork can cause damage.

Also, where to find the right lock nuts for these?
 
There is a handy ball joint press that works great for the control arm and tie rod end both. It looks like a thumb that closes between two fingers. Better than pickle forks and hammers. It’s also shown in the FSM. You don’t need the Factory tool, though; I see them in all the parts stores. One safety tip is to tether the tool, because when the joint “pops” the tool can be ejected violently. The first time I tried it I ended up losing my big toenail.

Correct misc hardware like those nuts can be ordered from Amayama, and likely the other domestic specialty dsm shops (JNZ, Epsi, STM, et al.) if you email them and ask. Expect longer wait times to receive them, though.
 
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There is a handy ball joint press that works great for the control arm and tie rod end both. It looks like a thumb that closes between two fingers. Better than pickle forks and hammers. It’s also shown in the FSM. You don’t need the Factory tool, though; I see them in all the parts stores. One safety tip is to tether the tool, because when the joint “pops” the tool can be ejected violently. The first time I tried it I ended up losing my big toenail.

Yeah I just came across this at Autozone. You mean this, right:

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...-fork-opening-ball-joint-separator/787834_0_0

I was at Pep Boys today but I didn't see it, so I instead mistakenly got a ball joint press, which I later realized was for removing and installing the ball joint in the actual control arm.

Also, I'm going to try to remove the CV axle from the hub. Might as well take the opportunity to take everything there apart and give it all a good derusting, cleaning, painting and where called for lubing. I anticipate a seized axle end, possibly requiring a hydraulic press. But if I can push it out myself using a forcing bolt and impact wrench, is this the correct one to use:

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-axle-flange-puller/oemtools-fwd-hub-puller/2050_0_0

There's a shallower version of this but I think it's for pulling the hub out of the knuckle using a slide hammer:

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-slide-hammer-flange/oemtools-axle-puller/2045_0_0
 
I only remove the tie rod and unbolt the bottom of strut. Them swing the knuckle towards the front to remove the axle. D/s is a little tight though but doable. I used to use a ratchet strap but that sucks since there’s two points that the trans swings on. Much easier to use a single chain to the tall 17mm threaded hole. I do SLIGHTLY raise the trans on the hoist just enough so there’s no stress on the threads/bolts to the block. I use this threaded hole

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I agree with this. On concrete I use a cherry picker and a single chain on that point. Trans hangs pretty nicely from that one point. I undo as little as possible and I don't undo any taper joints. Tie rod balljoint etc.
 
I wish I had a cherry picker, and not just to pick cherries. :sneaky:

But, seriously, the control arm ball joint is the original one, I believe, and it's probably due for a replacement anyway, if not now, then fairly soon--if not the control arm itself. Also, the bushings, and perhaps the tie rod end. Anything with a static and dynamic load-bearing part that deteriorates over time and involves grease, rubber, plastic, fluid, air, etc., basically. A long list of things the car probably needs at this point, few of which are critical and some of which can hopefully wait.
 
For the tie rod, loosen the nut but leave it on so you don’t damage the threads. Then hammer the knuckle where the tie rod is seated. It only takes a few hard blows.

For the lower ball joint, I put a floor jack under the rotor iirc. Loosen the nut and left it on and hammer the nut. I replaced my ball joints so I wasn’t worried about damaging it.
 
I've gotten tie rods off, using the forcing bolt tool as well as brute force with a hammer. Neither is very elegant as the tool tip always gets cocked.

Never pressed out a ball joint stud, but I guess it's time. I assume that if it's either too easy or too hard to move the ball joint once it's out of the knuckle, it needs to be replaced?
 
I have always mounted/dropped engine and trans alone, have tried many type of jacks and engine hoists. So far the best for me to mount/drop the trans is by a motorcycle jack lift. To mount the trans got so much easier since I got it. No more hassle and back pain.

Is that the exact lift you use Hiroshi? (STKUSA Stark 1100lbs Motorcycle Scissor Jack Lift)
 
I have a High Lift transmission jack on the way, as mine will be on the lift but reminds me of Hiroshi's lower jack.
My boys said "Dad, you need the right tools" so I have that coming but following this to see the ways of the wise!
Good thread.
 
I was doing the same thing until I got into my 50's and built a shop to work in. I have built so many cars under trees, in the drive, etc. so I feel all of you. Used to manhandle them up and in my Chevy's but just can't do that anymore.
 
I've gotten tie rods off, using the forcing bolt tool as well as brute force with a hammer. Neither is very elegant as the tool tip always gets cocked.

Never pressed out a ball joint stud, but I guess it's time. I assume that if it's either too easy or too hard to move the ball joint once it's out of the knuckle, it needs to be replaced?
No. New balljoints are very stiff. They junk if they're all loose. If you have to press one out don't forget to remove the snap ring under the boot
 
No. New balljoints are very stiff. They junk if they're all loose. If you have to press one out don't forget to remove the snap ring under the boot

I meant if it literally doesn't move, or moves with way more effort than seems right. I'll find out soon as I'm about to pop it out of the knuckle right now. Just got the special tool.
 
Yeah I just came across this at Autozone. You mean this, right:

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...-fork-opening-ball-joint-separator/787834_0_0

I was at Pep Boys today but I didn't see it, so I instead mistakenly got a ball joint press, which I later realized was for removing and installing the ball joint in the actual control arm.

Also, I'm going to try to remove the CV axle from the hub. Might as well take the opportunity to take everything there apart and give it all a good derusting, cleaning, painting and where called for lubing. I anticipate a seized axle end, possibly requiring a hydraulic press. But if I can push it out myself using a forcing bolt and impact wrench, is this the correct one to use:

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-axle-flange-puller/oemtools-fwd-hub-puller/2050_0_0

There's a shallower version of this but I think it's for pulling the hub out of the knuckle using a slide hammer:

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-slide-hammer-flange/oemtools-axle-puller/2045_0_0
Yes, that looks like mine. The other tool you showed is what the FSM recommends, but on my car I never needed it. I think I used a 2-jaw puller on the hub, but it hardly took much to free.

The harder job is getting that axle nut loose. It takes 150~180lbft to tighten, so more like 2xx to loosen! My first attempt was using a 4’ pry bar between some lug bolts; got the nut loose, but bent two lugs And had to replace them (which isn’t that bad). There is a tool that RTM and others sell that has two holes on an arm for holding the hub while turning, though I made my own from some sturdy oak I already had lying around. Best is to loosen them before raising the car with a helper on the brakes.
 
Yes, that looks like mine. The other tool you showed is what the FSM recommends, but on my car I never needed it. I think I used a 2-jaw puller on the hub, but it hardly took much to free.

The harder job is getting that axle nut loose. It takes 150~180lbft to tighten, so more like 2xx to loosen! My first attempt was using a 4’ pry bar between some lug bolts; got the nut loose, but bent two lugs And had to replace them (which isn’t that bad). There is a tool that RTM and others sell that has two holes on an arm for holding the hub while turning, though I made my own from some sturdy oak I already had lying around. Best is to loosen them before raising the car with a helper on the brakes.
Boy do I love living in the south and I have air tools. Never had a stuck CV. Can push it out with my fingers and air tools take care of the axle nut without issue. Worth it. I bit the bullet on an air compressor purchase 20 years ago and wish I had done it 10 years sooner. I bet I don't go into my garage hardly ever without using the air compressor for something if nothing more than getting the dust off myself.
 
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