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1G Question about reinstalling AWD manual transmission on 1G

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XC92

Proven Member
1,573
362
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
I finally got around to reinstalling the manual transmission on my '92 Talon TSi AWD, and as expected it was a nightmare. I finally got it in, but after probably 4 or 5 hours of trying. It seems that to get it in you have to not only align it up/down and fore/aft, but also radially AND L/R angularly (if that's a word). I.e. the left/right angle has to be just right, and there's no easy way to tell if it is until it finally goes in. I hope I didn't damage anything trying different positions and possibly left the trans hanging off the clutch for even a second. I guess I'll find out soon.

Anyway, my question is, one of the reinstallation steps is to reconnect the trans mount on the right side of the engine, and I'm not sure how to do it properly. The mount has 2 parts, a bracket that connects to the trans via 2 17mm bolts, and another bracket with a round roll mount that connects to both the trans bracket and the engine bay side of the wheel well. I was able to install the trans bracket after the trans was in, but there was no way to then insert the other bracket. I had to take everything apart just to pre-position both brackets so they could be installed. But this way there was no way to use a torque wrench for the right-most of the 2 bolts on the trans bracket. I had to use a combo wrench and guess the torque.

Is there a better way to do this, that allows installing the trans bracket first so you can get a torque wrench in there, or is this the only way? Note that I have an ABS which is installed right above all this with hard brake lines that can't be bent and cannot be easily removed, so there's minimal access from above.

Also, is this the correct reinstall order:

  1. Trans into rear of engine, lining up 2 dowels
  2. 1 Engine-Trans bolt just above and to left of left output shaft
  3. Trans mount bracket assembly
  4. 3 Trans-Engine bolts, 2 on top and 1 mid-way on the front of the trans

Now I know what people mean when they say that space is pretty tight in these cars.
 
I finally got around to reinstalling the manual transmission on my '92 Talon TSi AWD, and as expected it was a nightmare. I finally got it in, but after probably 4 or 5 hours of trying. It seems that to get it in you have to not only align it up/down and fore/aft, but also radially AND L/R angularly (if that's a word). I.e. the left/right angle has to be just right, and there's no easy way to tell if it is until it finally goes in. I hope I didn't damage anything trying different positions and possibly left the trans hanging off the clutch for even a second. I guess I'll find out soon.

Anyway, my question is, one of the reinstallation steps is to reconnect the trans mount on the right side of the engine, and I'm not sure how to do it properly. The mount has 2 parts, a bracket that connects to the trans via 2 17mm bolts, and another bracket with a round roll mount that connects to both the trans bracket and the engine bay side of the wheel well. I was able to install the trans bracket after the trans was in, but there was no way to then insert the other bracket. I had to take everything apart just to pre-position both brackets so they could be installed. But this way there was no way to use a torque wrench for the right-most of the 2 bolts on the trans bracket. I had to use a combo wrench and guess the torque.

Is there a better way to do this, that allows installing the trans bracket first so you can get a torque wrench in there, or is this the only way? Note that I have an ABS which is installed right above all this with hard brake lines that can't be bent and cannot be easily removed, so there's minimal access from above.

Also, is this the correct reinstall order:

  1. Trans into rear of engine, lining up 2 dowels
  2. 1 Engine-Trans bolt just above and to left of left output shaft
  3. Trans mount bracket assembly
  4. 3 Trans-Engine bolts, 2 on top and 1 mid-way on the front of the trans

Now I know what people mean when they say that space is pretty tight in these cars.
I hate to admit it but i don't torque any of that. Just tighten to feel. This won't make you feel any better but i stab a trans in about 10 or 15 min typically. First try is always the hardeat. The easiest method I've used is a cherry picker attached to one of the trans mount bolt holes. Single point and the trans just hangs there. Very easy to maneuver from underneath.
 
Actually it does make me feel better, in that it says that there's a method to this once you get the hang of it--literally--and it isn't some random process you have to keep at till it takes.

Also, what about that mount? Any special order to do it in, or did I do it right?

Btw, different matter, but I'm replacing the inner and outer tie rods and was wondering if there's any way to do it off the subframe. I don't see how without risking damage to the lines or rack assembly.

Oh, one last thing. I tried to press in the boots on the Moog ball joints, but they wouldn't go all the way, to the top of the c-clip. Is that right? I tried pressing hard on a wide socket, then tapping with a dead blow, but it wouldn't go any farther, where it's fairly east to pull out by hand. Is it the knuckle that keeps it in?
 
Don't forget the starter plate!!!!
 
Actually, I tried to remove it to clean it, but the bolts were stuck so I left it on. Is there any other reason you might need to remove it, normally? When I replace the rear seal I'll remove it so I can clean it and the whole rear cover area before replacing the seal. I'll get to that when I drop the trans to fix an issue with it, "soon".
 
Put the dowel pins in, or youll regret it, i cracked my bell housing,, its welded now but dont forget those.
 
Put the dowel pins in, or youll regret it, i cracked my bell housing,, its welded now but dont forget those.

I never took them out, nor did they fall out or were missing. Is there something I'm not understanding and are you referring to the 2 engine-trans dowel pins around half an inch in diameter each?
 
Nope if there, your goood then. the trans ones i mean.

Dowels were both in, starter plate tight (too tight) on engine rear, seal not appearing to be leaking, flywheel cleaned (but not resurfaced as this is a temporary installation) and installed to torque, new clutch disc and pressure plate, also torqued to spec, using alignment tool. I think the reason it took so long to get it in was the left/right angle.

I.e. the top of the trans case was slightly too high and I had to drop the trans jack a bit, which I'd hesitated to do because I didn't want to risk the trans hanging off the clutch disc from the input shaft. But I used a ratchet wrench to incrementally lower the jack, which got everything into proper alignment, and in the trans went.
 
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