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1G Pulling Engine Help

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jdigitty

10+ Year Contributor
155
1
Aug 1, 2009
lakewood, Washington
Okay well I searched and didn't find the answer I need. I'm trying to pull the engine and then I get to the axles and there's no way they are coming off. Ive tried pb blaster for the last two days. So this is the my main issue can i pull the engine and leave the tranny and axles in?
 
Yes I did have some one pressing the the brake pedal. And I don't want to but a screwdriver in the rotor because I have aluminum calipers. I'm trying borrow a impact from work Ill update tonight. Thanks for all the help guys/ladies.

99vipereater- Don't worry about it man.

This what im working with.
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I had a terrible time getting mine off but i did something like the video above and used a 3/8's ratchet and a 4 ft piece of galvanized pipe as a cheater bar... after 3 ratchets i finally got both off when i changed my front suspension.
 
should be like 6. an just pop the drive shafts out an take the whole thing. it would be alot easyer to do than tring to pull motor without trans. an if its a five speed when you put the motor back in, it will be a night mare to line the two back up where the input shaft gose in stright.
 
should be like 6. an just pop the drive shafts out an take the whole thing. it would be alot easyer to do than tring to pull motor without trans. an if its a five speed when you put the motor back in, it will be a night mare to line the two back up where the input shaft gose in stright.

Why throw a number out there if you don't know? Theres 7 bolts total holding the bell housing to the block and another holding the flywheel inspection cover to the bell housing. I would get the nuts off one way or another because you should fix it before you put it all back together anyway. Worst case take the whole knuckle off and into a shop that can get it off.
 
i didnt i went out side an counted what i could see i must be missing a bolt. sorry man i dont just throw out info if dont think it is right. an doint have the cover on the fly wheel didnt think about it.
 
I just read this whole thread, and I was very entertained. Those nuts are not that difficult to remove without breaking everything in sight.

There are three little bolts holding the inspection cover to the block and bellhousing, and one little bolt holding the shim plate to the bellhousing, but only four bolts holding the bellhousing to the block.

Technically to answer the OPs question. What the OP stated is correct: there's "just 4 bolt holding the engine to the transmission". If you want to count all the bolts involved to get to that point, then it's not six, or seven, and you couldn't even make that assumption unless you know if it's automatic and has torque converter bolts. For the OPs sake I hope its auto, because there's no way he's going to slide the clutch off the input shaft with the transmission in place if its manual.

Talk about the blind leading the blind...

Carry on!

Oh, and welcome to Tuners LOL
 
I know this isn't the right way to pull an engine and tranny, but it worked for me. When I pulled my engine this past winter, I undid the control arm from the wheel hub area and just took off the CV boots from the CV joints, and let the axle slide out. Then I covered the end of the axles with plastic wrap, and pulled the engine and tranny out together with the axle shafts still in the transmission. I ended up needing new boots anyways so it worked out for me. Again, I know it's not the proper way to do it, but I couldn't pop the axles out of the transmission so this worked for me.
 
Um... another method:
passenger side axle- pop the cv boot clamp at the tranny when you lift the motor/trans the axle will fall out leaving the cup in the tranny
Drivers side: get the spindle un bolted, knock the axle out of the jack shaft.

Step 3-profit:D
 
Op, if you need anything; just PM me.. i check on here at least 2-3 times a day..

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[/QUOTE]

No biggie man, Don't sweat that small crap when your pulling a motor and building/rebuilding/replacing..

Those studs are like 4 bucks a piece at the deal, and best yet, they have them in stock.. at least up in Pittsburgh..

Why not just pull your spindle off and pull the axle with it? take it to a machine shop and they will do the rest for you. or you could put it back together that way, but obviously its not the right way. But having the ability to clamp something down in a vice and work on it is much easier. just a thought.


I unbolted the upper control arm and lower control arm and the rest and just pulled the axle out of the boot... Being from Pittsburgh, the salt crushed my old spyder and there was literally no possible way to get the nut off, We tried EVERYTHING.. Even impact didn't do anything..
 

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Sorry about the grammar, not the best at putting ,.?! ect LOL. But i will try more. Now there are a ton of ways to pull a motor/trans, I dont think there is a right way just a fast an slow way. You can take it out how ever you want. If he wanted he could undo the struts an sub frame an pull the body off the motor/trans, of corse unhook everything. The easy way for me (this is for me not everyone) is to unhook hubs from the struts pop axles out of the trans, take motor mounts off. Remove all wires an use zipties to hold stuff that wont stay out of the way, out of the way, an of corse anything else that is hooked to the body. then pull it out clean an clear. ps. If the axles are in there good witch some of them are use a small pry bar to get them out workes every time for me. I never jack with the hubs inless i am doing a wheel bearing or trans axle. Because when you pull the motor/trans out they tend to catch stuff on the way out an makes it hard to put back in. Look how much stuff he broke when he could have went around it, saved some money an a headace. fwd is hard enouf by its shelf dont make it hardder. Sorry for the long post

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here is my pice LOL
 

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I just read this whole thread, and I was very entertained. Those nuts are not that difficult to remove without breaking everything in sight.

There are three little bolts holding the inspection cover to the block and bellhousing, and one little bolt holding the shim plate to the bellhousing, but only four bolts holding the bellhousing to the block.

Technically to answer the OPs question. What the OP stated is correct: there's "just 4 bolt holding the engine to the transmission". If you want to count all the bolts involved to get to that point, then it's not six, or seven, and you couldn't even make that assumption unless you know if it's automatic and has torque converter bolts. For the OPs sake I hope its auto, because there's no way he's going to slide the clutch off the input shaft with the transmission in place if its manual.

Talk about the blind leading the blind...

Carry on!

Oh, and welcome to Tuners LOL

:hmm:Maybe I can't count. Someone tell me if I'm crazy.

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here is my pice LOL

Nice ride. Wish mine was topless. You ever going to convert it to GSX? Oh and the grammar thing I was more talking about capitols and periods. Just makes it easier to see where a sentence ends. I don't think to many people mind as long as its easy enough to read.
 

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:hmm:Maybe I can't count. Someone tell me if I'm crazy.



Nice ride. Wish mine was topless. You ever going to convert it to GSX? Oh and the grammar thing I was more talking about capitols and periods. Just makes it easier to see where a sentence ends. I don't think to many people mind as long as its easy enough to read.

Ummmm might just be me, But that does not look like a 4g. All the starters I have seen on these cars bolts right to the trans with the starter plate in between. My car only has 4 bolts total holding the tans on.
 
Ummmm might just be me, But that does not look like a 4g. All the starters I have seen on these cars bolts right to the trans with the starter plate in between. My car only has 4 bolts total holding the tans on.

Well my car is a 99 with a 4g63 and this is how it bolted up. The starter bolts go through the block into the bell housing.
 
I have thought about making it awd, it would be cool. An i just looked at mine an it is the same as the pic posted up there an it is a 4g63 to. Any way did he get the motor out?
 
That picture above is maybe a 7 bolt engine block, but it doesn't look familiar. On the 6bolt engine the starter bolts go through the bellhousing, and thread into the starter. The little bolt in the front (exhaust side) is a little 10mm hex head bolt that just holds the plate to the bellhousing.

Here are a six bolt and a seven bolt I have laying around:

Seven bolt:
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Six bolt:
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Well i finally got them off and the engine out thanks guys for the help. The knuckles couldn't be saved tho the shop i took them to tried heat, big impact, and like a ten foot pipe. He tried for like an hour after he told me "No problem I can do this in 5 mins.". He didn't charge me. So new knuckles it is. Thanks again.
 
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