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1G Pulling Engine Help

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jdigitty

10+ Year Contributor
155
1
Aug 1, 2009
lakewood, Washington
Okay well I searched and didn't find the answer I need. I'm trying to pull the engine and then I get to the axles and there's no way they are coming off. Ive tried pb blaster for the last two days. So this is the my main issue can i pull the engine and leave the tranny and axles in?
 
You CAN but its a whole lot easier to pull the engine/trans together. Those axle nuts are a pain! I know from expirience. Last time I pulled my engine I spent a while pounding on and jumping on those axle nuts to no avail. Then I went to Lowes and bought a 4' galvanized pipe to use as a cheater bar and BAM, those nuts popped off smooth as butter. Give it a try, you can't beat leverage.
 
You could try this if the breaks are slipping. Just make sure you protect those wheel studs unless your replacing the wheel bearing. I used the insulators from the ac condenser mounting bolts.
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I did but the brakes just slip. Its so rusted I couldn't get the cotter pins out so I just cut them a short as I could i cant even see any threads.

So the cotter pin is still in there? I would try to tap it out first. Then Stick a screw driver inside the middle of the brake rotor. When it hits the caliper, the axle won't turn anymore. Then apply your leverage to the axle nut and you should be set.
 
You could try this if the breaks are slipping. Just make sure you protect those wheel studs unless your replacing the wheel bearing. I used the insulators from the ac condenser mounting bolts.
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I'ma give this one a try.

I did I tried to get them out with a nail but its like all rusted together. I thought about putting a screwdriver in the rotor but my calipers are aluminum and I don't want to risk it.
 

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i am still kinda new to dsm but wont the axles pop out of the trans like other cars an then you can just leave them in right. kinda of askn for me an him LOL as i am about to pull my trans
 
i am still kinda new to dsm but wont the axles pop out of the trans like other cars an then you can just leave them in right. kinda of askn for me an him LOL as i am about to pull my trans

You can but its easier just to pull the axles out of the way.
Use an air gun if possible. That's the way i take the axle nuts off.
 
Well i just bent one of the studs FML. Now what new hub?

Sorry to hear that I feel bad I sugested that now. It worked for me but as you can see my nuts weren't rusted on and I still had to use an impact wrench on one of them.You can get replacement studs they should hammer out but if its as rusted as your axle nut it might not want to come out either and it might be a good time to replace the wheel bearings if they havn't been done in a while. Just depends on how much money you have to fix it. I bought bearings last year about $90 a peice. Have you thought about a 1/2" electric impact wrench?
 
I would make certain those pins are out... there is no way you can cut them low enough to get them out of the way. buy a pin punch set and knock them out. Then try the impact or cheater pipe. also, try a little heat from a heat gun or map torch. Not enough to get anything red, just enough to make the parts grow. then shower it with liquid wrench, wd-40 or some other penetrant. let it sit for a few hours or even over night. the next day the nut should pop right off.

also, are the threads on these standard right hand direction or is one a lefty?
 
I would make certain those pins are out... there is no way you can cut them low enough to get them out of the way. buy a pin punch set and knock them out. Then try the impact or cheater pipe. also, try a little heat from a heat gun or map torch. Not enough to get anything red, just enough to make the parts grow. then shower it with liquid wrench, wd-40 or some other penetrant. let it sit for a few hours or even over night. the next day the nut should pop right off.

also, are the threads on these standard right hand direction or is one a lefty?

They are both standard threads; lefty loosy.
 
dam, to much work i would just leave them in. but thats just me i like head ace free crap. (so if the path gets hard find a new way up)
 
First off How are your brakes not holding? I'm not getting that? If the can't hold the weight of you or you pulling on them they need fixed/replaced... .

Also I'm not sure if you have a working abs system. But, even if you do it's crap an should be disabled. If you don't have plan on using It instead of pulling the whole spindle an pressing the Hub apart to fix the wheel stud you could always do This ---> articles-suspension-brakes-kyo-wheel-stud-install-1g-abs-abs-trigger-wheel-removal

It still sounds like your trying to break the Axel nut free with the cotter pins in? Or Am I misunderstanding?
 
Three great methods for removing the stubborn nut is to:

1) Use a large 1/2 in. breaker bar with a 4 foot cheater bar.
Craftsman breaker bars are nice because of their lifetime warranty.
Also wise to use a jack to hold the breaker bar up. Use this video as an example:
YouTube - How to remove a driveshaft hub nut

2) A compressor with an impact gun will get the nut off very quickly. If you can borrow one, along with a 32mm impact socket, you'd be set.

3) Use an acetylene torch to heat the nut up then repeat removal attempt.

I like to heat then use the impact gun the best :D
 
First off How are your brakes not holding? I'm not getting that? If the can't hold the weight of you or you pulling on them they need fixed/replaced...

The brakes will never hold. They are not applied unless some pushes on the brake pedal. If your brakes hold like this then there is something wrong with your brakes.
If it were the rears, it could be a siezed parking brake cable.

Use either the bar and wheel stud method or the screwdriver method. Whatever works easiest for you. Studs are easy to do as well. Just a matter of picking one up and replacing the bent/broken ones.
 
Why not just pull your spindle off and pull the axle with it? take it to a machine shop and they will do the rest for you. or you could put it back together that way, but obviously its not the right way. But having the ability to clamp something down in a vice and work on it is much easier. just a thought.
 
The brakes will never hold. They are not applied unless some pushes on the brake pedal. If your brakes hold like this then there is something wrong with your brakes.
If it were the rears, it could be a siezed parking brake cable.


While I'm well aware how brakes work... Why wouldn't the Op have someone holding the brakes while trying to Brake these free?

I assumed they were saying... That while trying to break these free an With someone holding the brakes they couldn't get them free because the breaks wouldn't hold :confused:
 
While I'm well aware how brakes work... Why wouldn't the Op have someone holding the brakes while trying to Brake these free?

I assumed they were saying... That while trying to break these free an With someone holding the brakes they couldn't get them free because the break wouldn't hold :confused:

With the car not running, the brakes will not grab as hard or hard enough to hold the rotor.
 
Brakes held fine when I did mine last week? Car was off, (already on jackstands and I dident want to put it back on the ground) just got in found a 2x4 that was close to the right size jamed it between my seat and pushed the seat as far forward as I could, (I was working by myself) got a big ass breaker bar and off they came. But you gotta get that cotter pin out for sure.
 
With the car not running, the brakes will not grab as hard or hard enough to hold the rotor.
Really??? or you have some $hity brakes... My held me standing on a Breaker Bar a couple weeks ago just fine...
 
Does NOBODY understand power breaks? Your car has never stalled on you and you had a hard time slowing down? Try it next time your driving and tell me if they have as much grab.
 
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