Project "Rely-on-ability" : 6 bolt rebuild

[blcknspo0ln]

UPDATE:
After taking the car for a spin, I'll be changing the oil to 10w50 or a bit heavier oil and a new mobile filter (I'm being cheap and saving my OEM one for the final breakin ). The knock sensor is going berserk, the coolant temperature sensor is reading a healthy 310*F all of the time, idle stinks, and the ECU (along with my damn DSMLink settings) keeps resetting itself because the battery keeps dying.

Yesterday I took it out for a good ol' "moto man" break in. Bruce thinks I'm a pssy for not boosting it, but I only drove out the revs without any boosting in 1st and 2nd and letting it engine brake itself. I'll be doing it again after my oil change tonight and slapping on the compression tester to make sure everything is up to par.

 

[RipperXX]

Any idea why the knock sensor is going nuts? Over torqued maybe?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

It must have been a freak thing because I went back and tried everything out and knock count was zero during the entire break in I did tonight. I put about another mile just going WOT in first and letting it engine brake, it felt like the longest drive in the world. Not to mention all of my neighbors thought I was insane. I also did my ignition timing after the drive, wow what a difference.

Changed the oil, anyone ever have green oil before? It was pennzoil 10w30, idled for 15 minutes and driven 1/2 mile with a mobile 1 filter. Disregard the dark oil, that was from the pan.

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Oh, about those flare AN fittings, I hate them without teflon I took them off when I changed the oil and retightened them, so hopefully they won't be leaking anymore.

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How about this!? Corey helped me out and sold me his hatch struts from the GS he's parting out. WORKING HATCH STRUTS! Get this, the hatch actually lifts ITSELF! I think both corey and I were pretty amazed at this. I took a couple of minutes to let some simple green soak in the hatch area to clean her up nice too.

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[blcknspo0ln]

Adjusted ignition timing. Use whiteout on the marks on the crank pulley:

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Let the car idle for an entire heat cycle (let the ecu turn the fans off then on) and plug in the timing light.

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Loosen the CAS nuts and fire up DSMLink or whatever program you are using to see timing advance. If you are using DSMLink go into Misc and choose 'Ground timing'. This will give you a nice constant advance, in my case it was 5.2.

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Now rotate the cas SLOWLY back and forth and watch your mark on the crank pulley versus the dial on the cover. If your program says 5.2, turn your CAS until it the little white out mark hovers around the 5* mark. After you've determined you're good, tighten the CAS down and RECHECK the pulley with the timing light.

After I cleaned up the talon, I decided to pull off the 'mask' and use a bit of mother's on her. Be gentle on the photo comments. I tried using different aperture settings and I realized that I suck.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod 07/DSC_0040-1.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod 07/DSC_0046-1.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod 07/DSC_0048-1.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod 07/DSC_0059-2.jpg

 

[welfle18]

Man love this thread! Wish someone will do this with a 7 bolt. I guess I will be the one who has to do this with my build. Anyways sounds good and hope you reach 11.5 man. Great thread.

 

[99gst_racer]

Yesterday I took it out for a good ol' "moto man" break in. Bruce thinks I'm a pssy for not boosting it, but I only drove out the revs without any boosting in 1st and 2nd and letting it engine brake itself. I'll be doing it again after my oil change tonight and slapping on the compression tester to make sure everything is up to par.

Boost it! If it were a factory new engine, Mitsubishi would be beating the shit out of it before it shipped off.

Good luck hitting 11.5 this spring/summer.

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Hi,

What up man.

Real glad you got it all together finally. I did the bass thing with my speakers when listening to the video but I just dont think its the same, haha. Next time I'm back in the dirty J we will have to take it out.

Bill

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Boost it! If it were a factory new engine, Mitsubishi would be beating the shit out of it before it shipped off.

Good luck hitting 11.5 this spring/summer.

Took her out for a little more of 1bar tial romping and I must say, this whole "boost your engine" is rather fun I officially have 5 miles on it and some oil leaks are starting to show, mainly the drain bolt from the oil pan WTF Oh well, she runs!

Hi,

What up man.

Real glad you got it all together finally. I did the bass thing with my speakers when listening to the video but I just dont think its the same, haha. Next time I'm back in the dirty J we will have to take it out.

Bill

Def bill, I didn't really think the speaker thing would work out too well ahha, I just tried again and it sucks. When you get back here we def need to go for a cruise.

Dialed in my base dsmlink settings and am going to fix the leaks and hopefully I can take her out when the weather gets better. She stays in the garage for now, though.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i16.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid16.photobucket.com/albums/b39/thelmasofast/mod%2007/20080120135853.flv">

 

[matt98eclipse]

Sounds good tom KEEP it comeing!!

Ever find out why the oil looked greenish??

 

[90laserRSfwd]

yeah whats up with that oil ? looks like your tsi is getting sick.....

 

[RipperXX]

Coolant....








j/k I have no idea, but that is weird.

 

[MidShipCivic]

Head:

New guide pins from JNZ:

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What is the part number for the guide pins ? I need those.

 

[ricktb]

Great thread, much respect. Would you recommend great stuff gasket applied to both sides of an oem oilpan gasket, as opposed to copper rtv? Could I use copper rtv only for a reliable seal?

(7bolt)

 

[blcknspo0ln]

What is the part number for the guide pins ? I need those.

I have no idea what the part number is. I always just call Eric @ JNZ and tell him what I need and he gets 'em ordered.

Great thread, much respect. Would you recommend great stuff gasket applied to both sides of an oem oilpan gasket, as opposed to copper rtv? Could I use copper rtv only for a reliable seal?

(7bolt)

Thanks! I wouldn't use just RTV for the seal on the oil pan. I've done it either way: Copper RTV + oil pan gasket, 'great stuff', and greatstuff + gasket (not the greatest experience scraping that off). IMO I like the idea of using a gasket a lot more.

As far as the oil, I still have no idea. I'm wondering if it has to do with the fact that it is your standard pennzoil 5w30 oil ran for 1/2 mile and perhaps that's just the shade it takes. I have about 5 miles on the new oil and I'll be changing that pretty soon, so I'm curious to see if the oil is going to take on the dark color again.

 

[turbosax2]

What is the part number for the guide pins ? I need those.

MS471111

 

[kmoore]

Wow Bruce, the nursing home finally let you out!?

Seriously, welcome back.

No kidding, I made a thread with your name on it! No big deal though: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/275021-oldman-could-you-grade-my-porting.html

And Tom awesome work. It's pretty cool, because its like a bunch of tech articles all in one. And I would assume that a clutch job for a 6 bolt and 7 bolt would be close to the same? (I'm 7 bolt)

Learned a lot just be reading all your updates. Keep it up.

 

[kmoore]

Oh! And you aren't kidding about that gasket remover... That stuff is STRONG. As I'm sure you know, keep that stuff away from your powdercoated things because that will eat away at that powdercoating.

 

[snowborder714]

And I would assume that a clutch job for a 6 bolt and 7 bolt would be close to the same? (I'm 7 bolt)

Yep, replacing a clutch would be the same.

Here's a good how-to on removing a FWD tranny:
ColumbusDSM - 2G Turbo FWD Transmission Removal


Great thread Tom! I always love reading these (and seeing all the nice pictures!).

 

[Ravenous]

I would imagine that all the lithium grease and assembling lube, especially the stuff you filled the oil pump with would change the shade of the oil, and I imagine that is the shade it would take.

I know it is probably old hat now but when I took in my 360 v8 mopar block to be rebuilt the guy at the machine shop pulled off the valve covers and there was thick black sludge all over the rockers and rocker shaft, he looked me right in the eye and said, "I see you use penzoil." Something about the additives they used in their oil, never been able to put it in my car since then... I'm sure its different now that was a 25 year old car(my dad's, always used penzoil) that never had the valve covers off, but still makes me cringe.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

synthetic oils.... My how times have changed

 

[awdeclipseguy]

Yeah its prob all the lube you used on the engine. It will stop after the next few oil changes.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I think you guys hit it on the head. I do remember watching oil come out of the OFH when I was test spinning the oil pump and it was a whitish/brown color, no doubt due to the lithium grease. I'm crossing my fingers next oil/filter change will return back to normal.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Maybe your using some kind of Top Secret oil and don't want us to know... didn't think we'd find out did ya ?

 

[Jst4Cyl]

Personally, I think the pics turned out great. Congrats on getting things going.

 

[RipperXX]

Any updates on how she's running? got any real miles on it yet?