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6 bolt rebuild question

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drich970

Probationary Member
28
29
Mar 20, 2015
Fort Morgan, Colorado
Long time lurker. Community is very helpful.

I dont want to go on a rant for my first post so I will try to slim it down. Bought my first talon in 2007. It was slightly modded, nothing crazy inj's, maft, fmic. Drove until 2010. Gave to my brother and the headgasket blew in 2011. Car sat in a covered garage until 2013. I got it back in 2013 and it sat another 2 years in a garage.

2015
Pulled engine and disassembled. Block sent to machine shop. It was the only machine shop in my area with a torque plate. They bored .20 over, balanced and fitted 2g pistons to my stock 1g rods.

2018
Job situation finally sorted out and addition of new family members. I am finally ready to reassemble. I took the wrapping off the block today and found surface rust on the cylinder walls.

What do you guys suggest I do? Should I send it back to a machine shop for another cleaning? It's my fault I didn't get to building it until now.

Thankyou guys for your input.
 

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Wipe it down with some of the rust removal liquid that Autozone sells in 16oz or so bottles, get the stuff that is non toxic, non acidic and safe on your skin, wipe it down with a rag soaked in it and let it sit for a few hours and then see if the rust dissapears, that doesnt look like much other than light surface corrosion.
 
Wipe it down with some of the rust removal liquid that Autozone sells in 16oz or so bottles, get the stuff that is non toxic, non acidic and safe on your skin, wipe it down with a rag soaked in it and let it sit for a few hours and then see if the rust dissapears, that doesnt look like much other than light surface corrosion.

Thanks man I will try that tonight.
 
Red scotch brite pad and some PBblaster that looks very light you'll be fine.
 
If you use scotch brite pads, make sure you thoroughly clean afterwards as it has aluminum oxide particles in it that will eat your rings and bearings. A super cleaning with soap and water afterwards should do then rub ATF into the cylinder walls for protection. Or rehone it lightly. Will still need a good cleaning either way.
 
I have heard conflicting info about the scotch brite pads. The oil galleys in my mains also have rust in them. I'm starting to think I should send it for a quick cleaning at the machine shop. I have been wanting to get the kiggly girdle. Maybe I could kill two birds and have the machining done for the girdle then too.
 
I had the same exact issue on my block. Picked up a flex hone from Amazon for 40 bucks, problem solved. Barely removes any material in a quick pass but cleans up the surface rust, I first saw one being used on the BoostedBoiz YouTube channel and figured I'd give it a try, worked perfectly.
 
I had the same exact issue on my block. Picked up a flex hone from Amazon for 40 bucks, problem solved. Barely removes any material in a quick pass but cleans up the surface rust, I first saw one being used on the BoostedBoiz YouTube channel and figured I'd give it a try, worked perfectly.
I'm going to check out his channel. Did you have rust in your main galleys too?
 
I'm going to check out his channel. Did you have rust in your main galleys too?
Main galleys weren't bad but the cylinders were much worse than yours appear to be. May not be a perfect way of measuring, but I measured ring Gap before and after using the flex hone and the change was negligible. Did a great job of cleaning up the rust and restoring the cross hatch pattern in the cylinders.
 
10-4. I checked it out. I'm sold I'm also going to grab a couple rifle flex hones for the galleys. Looks like it will work out nice. Thankyou for the advice
 
A flex hone will leave grit behind and the block will require a thorough cleaning afterwards, especially if you run one in the oil passages! I recommend a hot tank at a machine shop if you hone it.
 
Anything you use that's abrasive will leave grit so there's no reason any of the above ways to remove the surface rust wont work. Obviously before assembling your going to need to thoroughly clean everything that's just a given. With that said scotchbrite pads is what I use because for 1 the block has already been machined so why pay again for a home for lite surface rust. 2 why have a machine shop charge you to put it in a hot tank to clean it when for less you can buy a rifle cleaning kit some dish soap and some scrub brushes and do a better job that doesn't involve transporting to and from a shop an can be done in about an hour. Cleaning a block is not rocket science take galley plugs out. Grab some simple green or whatever degreaser you've got soak it down run rifle cleaning brushes down it then flush with water keep doing this till junk stops coming out. Blast it with compressed air then coat it all down with wd40 or anything that will repel water and shield it from moisture. Done and probably cleaner than what your machine shop will do because it's your project not there's.
 
On the cylinder walls, you should be able to take a Clean White paper towel to clean them and it will come out clean. I ALWAYS wipe mine with ATF generously with the edge of my hand and work it in, then clean it out. When the white paper towel comes out RED, with NO GREY or any other color on it, that cylinder is clean, move to the next one. It usually takes 4-7 passes before they come out CLEAN. It's how I was taught 40 some years ago. Always works. Just my 2 cents.
 
I ordered the moroso engine cleaning kit last night on amazon. I am going to to thoroughly clean every passage, rinse and repeat. I will be using the flex hone on the cylinders to clean the surface rust.

I am skipping the machine shop as its 2 hours away. I will probably regret this because I really wanted the kiggly main girdle machining done.

Anybody have any experience with the main girdle?
 
Make sure that when you are honing, move the hone up and down rapidly so that you match the cross-hatch marks. Don't go about it slow, move up and down rapidly or you'll be BORING not honing. :thumb:
 
Make sure that when you are honing, move the hone up and down rapidly so that you match the cross-hatch marks. Don't go about it slow, move up and down rapidly or you'll be BORING not honing. :thumb:
Good advice. I will do that.
 
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