7 Bolt Rebuild Project

[TeeWX98GST]

I have a spare 7 bolt that has been sitting in my garage for some time and I have decided to start the rebuild on it. The engine originally spun a rod bearing and started knocking. I took the head off today and snapped some pictures of the pistons and cylinder walls to see what you guys think. How do they look? They look fine to me but I'm not exactly sure what defects to look for.

Pistons
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii1/TeeWX/4g63t%20Rebuild/Picture013.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii1/TeeWX/4g63t%20Rebuild/Picture012.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii1/TeeWX/4g63t%20Rebuild/Picture014.jpg

Cylinder Walls
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii1/TeeWX/4g63t%20Rebuild/Picture015.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii1/TeeWX/4g63t%20Rebuild/Picture016.jpg

Heres a picture of the Crank where the bearing was spun. I am hoping this can be turned, However the rod looks the same on the inside, needs to be replaced?
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii1/TeeWX/4g63t%20Rebuild/Picture017.jpg

 

[sschambers]

I'd take the block, caps, pistons, rods and head to a machine shop and get a professional opinion, especially since it's easier to see things like this in person. When it comes to re-building a motor, everything has to be perfect; or else you're going to run into problems...I'd recommend:

Align hone block
Hone cylinder walls
Turn crank (or get a new one)
Deck block
Deck head
Hot tank

What are your hp goals for this rebuild? If you're not going for high numbers just do a stock rebuild (stock pistons, rods, basic head rebuild, etc). Machine shops don't usually charge too much for a basic rebuild of a head (at least mine didn't). Also, stock rebuild kits for the block aren't that much $$.

When I got my block machined, I had it align honed with a torque plate on top of the block used in conjunction with ARP main studs. The idea behind this is to 'simulate the build' in a way. So that when you go to torque the head to the block, if there is any flexing what-so-ever of the bottom of the block, it *shouldn't* throw anything out of whack. This was a theory of CW in 7-bolts. But I'm not getting into that, just trying to throw you some ideas. However, do keep in mind that there have been many, many reports of people re-building 7-bolts and having them CW soon after.

Use reputable rod and main bearings. I went with ACL race series and got them graphite coated for extra protection.
If you're not too mechanically inclined, have the machine shop build the engine for you. If you know what you're doing, then follow the "if you want it done right, do it yourself" rule.

Also note the thrust bearing. Is it the flanged type or washer type? These are not interchangeable.

Hope this helps some.

Steve

 

[TeeWX98GST]

What are your hp goals for this rebuild? If you're not going for high numbers just do a stock rebuild (stock pistons, rods, basic head rebuild, etc). Machine shops don't usually charge too much for a basic rebuild of a head (at least mine didn't). Also, stock rebuild kits for the block aren't that much $$.

My plan was to rebuild this engine to stock and try to keep costs low. The whole block has just around 100k miles on it.

I'd take the block, caps, pistons, rods and head to a machine shop and get a professional opinion, especially since it's easier to see things like this in person. When it comes to re-building a motor, everything has to be perfect; or else you're going to run into problems...I'd recommend:

Align hone block
Hone cylinder walls
Turn crank (or get a new one)
Deck block
Deck head
Hot tank

What would you project this might cost on average if you have any idea? Thanks

 

[black_eclipse96]

heres a place for some pricing.


Mitsubishi Engine Rebuild Kits and Overhaul Kits