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Project "Rely-on-ability" : 6 bolt rebuild

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When I put my full SS line in, the pedal was a bit more responsive and felt much better.

Probably due to bleeding the clutch and the elimination of the accumulator. I'm not saying it's a bad idea, just maybe not worth the money.
 
My dumptube exits right next to the oil return line and I wasn't very comfortable with that. So after some research, I went to autozone and bought 1.5" exhaust flex tubing. This stuff is awesome and only costs 5 bucks!! Don't mind the ghetto "bottom out" shield on my downpipe LOL

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As she sits now. Everything is ready to go, I'm just waiting for the shaft seals to complete the entire project :rocks::rocks::rocks::rocks:

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I asked a bit earlier I was curious where you got your 02 housing from, it looks like a custom made one.
 
yeah looks awesome man, can't wait to hear results.. after reading your thread I want to go kick my fathers truck out of the garage and tear my motor apart and max out the credit cards!!! LOL... I love reading these build threads, especially when people document all the details as well as you do...
 
You should loop the throttle cable underneath the smim. It's a much cleaner look and you can remove the two brackets for the cable on the fuel rail. :thumb:

Haha, just realized this was my 1000th tech post! :)
 
Well well when is it going to make noise??? It's looking GOOD:thumb:

Not soon enough. :coy: Literally, the only thing holding me back from a startup is the shaft seals. I can throw the TB back together with the old ones, but running a known boost leak would defeat the purpose of my entire build :p

I asked a bit earlier I was curious where you got your 02 housing from, it looks like a custom made one.

Yup, it's custom. I bought it off a fellow DSMer and he says its from 122 performance.

yeah looks awesome man, can't wait to hear results.. after reading your thread I want to go kick my fathers truck out of the garage and tear my motor apart and max out the credit cards!!! LOL... I love reading these build threads, especially when people document all the details as well as you do...

LOL yes, it's time to max out the credit cards. I know I threw my $$ under the bus as soon as I started planning this in September. I had a whole 2 months to save up and it only accounted for half the money I put in. OMG

You should loop the throttle cable underneath the smim. It's a much cleaner look and you can remove the two brackets for the cable on the fuel rail. :thumb:

Haha, just realized this was my 1000th tech post! :)

Happy 1000th post to you! :tease: That was sooooo 2004 buddy :p As far as looping the lines, I never even though of that. Thanks!
 
Awesome TB comparison pics. I never realized what a difference in thickness the plates were. :thumb:

It also wouldn't hurt to mushroom the ends of those screws on the TB shaft to assure that they will never work themselves loose. I've seen it too many times where one screw backs out and takes out a piston and a couple valves.
 
You could just go down to the home depot and buy the o rings for the shaft seals.

Been there done that. Either I don't know which seals to buy, or I'm just plain retarded. The O rings always ended up leaking when I tried them. It's ok though, JNZ is usually pretty good with their turn around time. I got them today and ordered Friday. :thumb:

It also wouldn't hurt to mushroom the ends of those screws on the TB shaft to assure that they will never work themselves loose. I've seen it too many times where one screw backs out and takes out a piston and a couple valves.

Yea, it's nice to have a ballpeen hammer handy. I bought screws that fit exactly, so there wasn't any of the ends left to beat up. I just kind of bit the bullet and used red loctite again. Hopefully I won't be that guy who makes a thread about a piston exploding soon.:coy:
 
Almost done!

TB shaft seals came in, here's how to put it back together.
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I put the seal facing IN and used an 8mm socket to press it into place, no grease was used.
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Lube the shaft. I used white lithium grease, anything will really work here.
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Note the orientation of the shaft. The shortest end goes where the TPS will bolt to.
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Spin the shaft on its side, so you can slide the plate in. DO NOT use a metal hammer on this plate. It is very soft and you can easily dent the plate and make it not seal correctly. I used a mallet for this.

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Again, making sharpie notes on everything always helps.
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You have to play with the plate a bit to get the holes to line up. Then just bolt her down. I used new screws and red loctite.
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Here's the most PITA process of putting a TB together. Put the spring on, make sure the hook gets put on the post.
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Slide the larger one over it.
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Put the green spring inside the plastic casing here.
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NOW STOP! Instead of fighting with pliers, needle noses, clamps, fingers, etc. Just ziptie the two top hooks together. I found out by chance today that it was by far the EASIEST way of getting these stupid coils together. Now hold the ziptie in one hand and spin the TB, while pushing down on the plastic thing. Once you get the lines you previously made with your sharpie in line (usually 2 full rotations), put the hooks onto the ear.

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Final product:
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Bolted her down with the TB elbow:
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I rushed along and bolted this stuff fairly quickly:
UICP with new hump hose from extremepsi
battery
FP intake pipe
home made CAI
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For anyone who wants to know, it's just a 4" 90* PVC pipe (painted black), 4" fernco coupler (plumbing aisle) and a 4" KN filter.
JMF cans. Conveniently enough, the visteon radiator leaves PERFECT room for the arm on the JMF coolant can.
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Moving my throttle cable really did clean things up :thumb:
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Quick shot of how much room I still have
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*DRUM ROLL PLEASE*
The final product!


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I know and now your jumping up and down COME ON SPRING!! ROFL :rocks:

I forgot to say, arn't those throttle return springs a real bi***!
 
if you have any issues with the clutch, put the slave back so the bleeder is on top. If you look at all brake calipers, the bleeder is always on top, since you might get an air bubble stuck in there.
 
Dude, I have 20 sets of shaft seals sitting right in front of me. :D

Is it running yet?
 
Wow Bruce, the nursing home finally let you out!?:p

Seriously, welcome back.:)
 
:shhh: Defiant might hear you. :shhh:

I don't multi task well and sometimes attention needs to be focused my business and personal life but I will slowly worked my way back in, I always do. :)
 
nice.. do i hear 11.5's or better this season??

That's exactly the target. If I can click off 11.5 @ 120ish, I'll be a happy camper. :D

I know and now your jumping up and down COME ON SPRING!! ROFL :rocks:

I forgot to say, arn't those throttle return springs a real bi***!

Yea, I'm really hating winter now. I took all this time to get the car running and now it'll just sit in the garage because of the snow/salt. LOL So much for that. As far as the TB springs, next time you do one, try ziptie-ing them together and using the ziptie as your leverage. It works awesome!

if you have any issues with the clutch, put the slave back so the bleeder is on top. If you look at all brake calipers, the bleeder is always on top, since you might get an air bubble stuck in there.

Yup, makes sense. I bled the clutch with a buddy yesterday and surprisingly it went into gear just fine :thumb:

Dude, I have 20 sets of shaft seals sitting right in front of me. :D

Is it running yet?

I hate you. I waited to start the car for 4 days because I didn't have shaft seals. Oh well. As you can see in the video the car definitely starts. I took the car for a drive yesterday for the first time since mid november. :rocks::rocks: The car has a lot of electronic and tuning kinks that I have to work out, but I think everything is going to be OK. Time to do a bit more 'searching' for some answers I have. I've never had to adjust idle on a car without a FIAV and idle goes from 600 to 2000 pretty randomly. :toobad:
 
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