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Project "Rely-on-ability" : 6 bolt rebuild

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Tom, have you used the copper RTV on previous setups? Just wondering how it holds up to the intense heat, particularly between head-manifold and manifold-turbo? It's claimed to hold up to 700*F but I thought that our manifold and turbine housings can get hotter than that (maybe I am wrong about that).

Great work on this thread. Very informative and the motor is looking great.:thumb:
 
Very nice write-up Tom :D Love the red VC...thats a sexy deep red color. Quality work!!!


You will see a write-up from me coming to this effect soon...keep your eyes open.
 
Tom, That is going to be one sweet install. The one very minor thing I spotter was on the AN816 fittings you have installed in the oil filter adaptor the flair fitting end does not need teflon tape. the 37degree flair does all the sealing. Just a touch of antiseize or just plain oil is all that is needed on the threads for assembly. The teflon tends to gum up the works.

Just one of the minor things that sets off warning bells being an old aircraft mechanic.
 
romeen said:
Tom, have you used the copper RTV on previous setups? Just wondering how it holds up to the intense heat, particularly between head-manifold and manifold-turbo? It's claimed to hold up to 700*F but I thought that our manifold and turbine housings can get hotter than that (maybe I am wrong about that).

Great work on this thread. Very informative and the motor is looking great.:thumb:
Click to expand...

I've used RTV for the past two engine/turbo swaps and the RTV has seemingly held up. I've never really had an exhaust leak so I don't know if it's due to the RTV or the fact that I'm lucky; I'm not too anxious to find out though :tease: Oh, when I had an EGT, I saw over 1600*F OMG

fourreGsixty3 said:
Very nice write-up Tom :D Love the red VC...thats a sexy deep red color. Quality work!!!


You will see a write-up from me coming to this effect soon...keep your eyes open.
Click to expand...

Thanks bro :thumb: It's a blood red over silver base :thumb: Definitely look forward to a 1G 6 bolt build to drool over!

123bobby123 said:
Awesome work so far man, I really got to get over to your place to "help" you with this, haha.

Bill
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Bill, after Christmas I'm gonna be killed with work. I hope you can swing by one of hte nights I get off early!

tqmx1 said:
Tom, That is going to be one sweet install. The one very minor thing I spotter was on the AN816 fittings you have installed in the oil filter adaptor the flair fitting end does not need teflon tape. the 37degree flair does all the sealing. Just a touch of antiseize or just plain oil is all that is needed on the threads for assembly. The teflon tends to gum up the works.

Just one of the minor things that sets off warning bells being an old aircraft mechanic.
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Hmmm, I've never thought of that. I've always used teflon tape on the AN threads. I have to run oil through the engine so I'll give it a try without the teflon :thumb:
 
Yes you never use teflon tape or sealant on AN fittings. If for some reason oil made it past the 37 degree flare it would leak through the swivel on the hose end anyhow. And you put in the alternator bolt in backwards. The square end towards the timing and the nub on the alternator will hold it in place. Otherwise i think this is one the best write ups i have seen.
 
Very VERY informative....damn!
I have a question tho, not really pertaining to your build persay...but what would you say the easiest way to get the red fittings onto braided line would be....and w/out scratching the hell out of them?!~?
 
TurboAnything said:
Yes you never use teflon tape or sealant on AN fittings. If for some reason oil made it past the 37 degree flare it would leak through the swivel on the hose end anyhow. And you put in the alternator bolt in backwards. The square end towards the timing and the nub on the alternator will hold it in place. Otherwise i think this is one the best write ups i have seen.
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Thanks for the tip on the AN fittings, I've always used teflon, but I'll give it a try this time around. As far as the alternator, I put it on backwards intentionally, I like having the nut a little more accessible when it's in the car. I've done it for years without a problem.

BUCK said:
PRETTY WORK - thanx~!
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Ah, buck. Did you know your write up was the first writeup I ever read that helped me do my first timing belt job? I think that was in 2004 or something. Thanks for that retarded long article you posted years ago :rocks:

94Jettameowpsst said:
Very VERY informative....damn!
I have a question tho, not really pertaining to your build persay...but what would you say the easiest way to get the red fittings onto braided line would be....and w/out scratching the hell out of them?!~?
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Are you talking about installing SS braided line onto an AN fitting? To get a nice straight edge, I wrap the hose with a single layer or two of electrical tape (wrap it AS TIGHT as you can, stretch the crap out of it). then I lay it on the floor and get a flat chisel (looks like a thick scraper) and have a huge whack at it with a 2 lb. mallet. This shears the fitting into two pieces as clean as possible. Next i lube the tape up (leave it on the hose) with a bit of oil and push the hose onto the fitting while turning it. It helps to push up against a wall or bench or something.
 
Ever have mini-throw up? Or felt that sinking feeling in your stomach? Well, that was my Merry Christmas EVE :toobad::notgood:

I filled up the engine with some regular pennzoil 10w-30 non-syn and was ready to prime the engine before putting the tbelt on. I go and grab the air ratchet and put on my 14mm wrench. All of a sudden while I'm letting the pump spin and looking for oil to plumb to the head, my hand gets wet with oil. W...T...F...?? I look down to see this. A nice HUGE crack at the castle plug area. Wait, did I over torque it? No.. I have no idea why it split like this and it lead to another 2 hours of down time pulling off the oil pan, crank pulley bolt, etc. and finally removed the front case. I'm going to call extremepsi on wednesday and hopefully they can work out a warranty or something. I wouldn't mind buying a new one if it was my fault, but I can't see how any of the work I did caused this thing to crack. :rolleyes::barf:

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Sigh, so my entire engine is sitting upside on the stand in the garage and I literally started throwing stuff around. What a crappy way to end a day.
 

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Well, I decided to be productive and got some extra material and made a nice battery tie down. I was going to relocate it down to the firewall area, but figured, hell, it's not that important to do it; Plus it'd take a lot more effort. In case anyone is wondering, you have to get a smaller battery or relocate your stock battery when you get an SMIM (or at least the JMF one). This is the Duralast GOLD battery from a 2000+ civic. Same cranking/amp power as the stock battery, but half the size.

90* aluminum strap
aluminum bar
5/16-18 full threaded rod
nuts
fender washers
2 wing nuts
self-tapping screws
Cost ~$13

I eyeballed everything but it came out great.

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Painted the bottom straps black for OEM look.

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This isn't as fancy as JMF's bling kit, but it works!
 

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Ever have mini-throw up? Or felt that sinking feeling in your stomach? Well, that was my Merry Christmas EVE

I filled up the engine with some regular pennzoil 10w-30 non-syn and was ready to prime the engine before putting the tbelt on. I go and grab the air ratchet and put on my 14mm wrench. All of a sudden while I'm letting the pump spin and looking for oil to plumb to the head, my hand gets wet with oil. W...T...F...?? I look down to see this. A nice HUGE crack at the castle plug area. Wait, did I over torque it? No.. I have no idea why it split like this and it lead to another 2 hours of down time pulling off the oil pan, crank pulley bolt, etc. and finally removed the front case. I'm going to call extremepsi on wednesday and hopefully they can work out a warranty or something. I wouldn't mind buying a new one if it was my fault, but I can't see how any of the work I did caused this thing to crack.
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Shit, since I have been following this thread so closely even I just got a sick feeling in my stomach for you. I think most DSM'ers have one of these stories that makes no sense and causes you to lose it. Sorry to hear that.

Nonetheless, better now than when you're driving down the road.
 
dam tom tha sucks, that had to be a factory defect i never seen a case brake like that, as far as the rest of the build goes the car is looking great man
 
great thread, nice info on the battery too.. glad to here I don't have to spend $200 on a small battery kit when I install my SMIM from JM Fab.
 
romeen said:
Shit, since I have been following this thread so closely even I just got a sick feeling in my stomach for you. I think most DSM'ers have one of these stories that makes no sense and causes you to lose it. Sorry to hear that.

Nonetheless, better now than when you're driving down the road.
Click to expand...

Now that I've recovered from that nasty surprise, I agree. It sucks when it happens, but at least its over with. Hung @ extremepsi is seeking a warranty for me, so I hope that goes through :)

1gnasty said:
dam tom tha sucks, that had to be a factory defect i never seen a case brake like that, as far as the rest of the build goes the car is looking great man
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Yea Juan, that's what I'm thinking too. I guess we'll all find out what Mitsu decides in the next coming days.

90laserRSfwd said:
great thread, nice info on the battery too.. glad to here I don't have to spend $200 on a small battery kit when I install my SMIM from JM Fab.
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Thanks :D JMFab hands down has an awesome kit, but if you're a cheapass like me, this works too ROFL

Starting off, I promised bruce (oldman) that I'd get the proper timing tin covers on the next build, so here they are! damn, I think this is the first time I've ever used 'em. :D You can see the left and two right ones pretty clearly here.

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Front case : take 2

Got the new one in from extremepsi; here we go again..

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A lot of people have suspected that the first case front case gave because of excess pressure and/or contact with the castle plug and BSE stub, but to be sure, the bolt has to be on the inside lip. I did that the first time, but it doesn't hurt double checking.

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BSE parts:
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Castle plug installed. Again, hand tightened with high temp sealant and then hammer/flat headed into place.

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Replacing the balance shaft seal with the plug:

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Putting the oil gear and stub shaft in should be flush against the casing:
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A nice recommendation was to make sure the oil pump casing was flush to the front casing surface without any pressure or aid. I had to wiggle it a bit, but here she is. Again, blue loctited bolts to 18 ft/lb.

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The oil pump gear has a slot that you have to line up on the shaft in order to slide it down:
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I used blue loctite this time because it was a major PITA to get the red loctited bolt off. I guess it really does its job ROFL
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Hold it down and torque the nut with a 12mm wrench to 28 ft/lb.
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Another new alignment pin:
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New gasket, I've gotten really good at judging the tackiness/time frame LOL
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Again, a little wiggling, but the front case should mate to the block (flush) without much effort.

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Balance shaft sprocket:
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Crank trigger plate:
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Crank sprocket:
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Oil pan is back on:
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Oil return:
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I won't spend too much time on the timing belt, procedure outlined here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...l-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

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For those who don't know what gap you're measuring:
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My ubercool powdercoated cam gears :D
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I put the throttle body on. It has no FIAV with the blockoff plate from JMF and this is with an SSAC TB elbow.

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I put the timing belt covers on. If anyone is wondering, those large gashes are a result of the AC tensioner slipping and causing near fatal death to my timing belt last summer. I have since cut the timing cover into two sections because it makes taking the lower cover off when the engine in the car much much easier.

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Running new vacuum hose. Remember that the vacuum line going to the brake boost has a check valve in it. DO NOT FORGET!!! You cannot have positive pressure going back into your brake booster.

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Tidying up and gearing for the trans and engine installation :D Now I just have to get the cherry picker back from my friend.

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Patiently waiting...
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I forgot to put spark plugs in. Here's the good ol' "gap to .028 picture" ROFL Using a feeler gauge IMHO is a much more accurate way of gapping plugs.

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Aewsome thread I love these. BTW where did you get that o2 housing or did you make it. It looks custom.
 
Are you using an OEM front case or Topline?

Also try Never Dull made by Eagle the next time you go to polish a shiny metal or such, made my Magnus shine up real nice.

BTW, it's looking great :rocks:
 
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